Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Rainboat on March 22, 2021, 02:33:55 PM
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I have mid to late 70's (I think) Aquasport 170. Took all the hardware off, cut the sole out and started the transom.
Fun stuff.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/IMG_1169.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21654&title=first-steps&cat=2)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/IMG_1168.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21652&title=first-steps&cat=2)
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Welcome aboard and glad to see you're bringing a 170 back to life.
Do you have notches in the liner where the rear cleats are? If so that is a post '71 hull. If you look on the aft side of the transom, starboard side, you should see a "stamp" in the gelcoat and the last 2 digits is the year - this is the Hull ID Number (HIN) - Google that to understand the numbers. If there is no number you may have a '71 ish
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Ok, checked the HIN and looks like the hull is from 1973. Thanks for the tip.
NK
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So that tells me that you do have the notches for the cleats.
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I did have notches for the cleats. I cut them out to access the hull sides and transom etc...I'm going to reinforce the transom hull connection. I'm going to get the transom skin exposed and all the stringer delams etc cleaned up this week and next. At least that's the plan...
NK
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1196.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21664&title=liner-out&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1186.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21663&title=liner-out&cat=500)
I took the liner out. It was easier to get out than I expected. Next step is to grind on the hull and find
all the delaminations and cracks and voids and to prepare the surface for some reinforcement.
I am thinking of adding cleats to sides of hull and then tie the new sole to the sides. Seems like this would really stiffen up the hull.
I'm also going to add a new hardwood inner shear to replace the rotten ply that runs around the top of the hull.
Also, I've cut the stringers off about a foot forward of the transom. I'm thinking of putting in a bulkhead here and just tying stringers to the bulkhead instead of the transom. The bulkhead would be part of the motor well that I want to put in. I would add some knees to the transom.
Just some preliminary ideas...any thoughts?
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Looks like that worked out well. Something to ponder is how do you plan to finish the inside of the boat? If you are going to spray gelcoat or paint would tell you what resin to use in the resto. You mention tieing floor into hull, I did that also. I used polyester above the floor and epoxy below the floor. But I tied the floor into the hull from the top with epoxy only because I could hide the joint behind the liner. If you are going to raise the floor an inch or two, you'll have to account for that height in the liner sides.
Cutting the stringers back 12" might be just shy of what you need when replacing and laminating the transom in - usually 18" is about what you need.
Consider what you will be doing to the low point in the hull as you laminate the transom core in.
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
I did not do this on my rebuild - wish I had thought of it earlier. Now I always have a couple inches of water in the hull in the aft :embar:
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Looking good Raincoat. I'm planning on starting a 170 rebuild shortly, so Ill be following this. Curious as to how you got the liner out, did you have some sort of hoist or gantry? Any ballpark on what that liner weighs, minus the deck you cut out? Thanks.
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I ran a flat bar around the connection and between the crossmember that is near the storage wells forward. Four of us lifted it out easily. Bet it weighs around 100#.
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Thanks for the info, im thinking pulling the liner out is the way ill go once i put the boat under the knife.
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I installed a 1x4 grid to register the approximate location of stringer sides. I'm going to clean up the insides as much as possible. I'll screw 3/8" ply to the insides of stringer panels and glass to hull. After inside glassed I'll tab outside of stringer to hull and then fill with foam, trim and glass a few layers to finish.
I'm going to leave the bulkhead in because it seems like a strong connection between stringers. Where stringers are cut I'm thinking of adding a stringer/sole height bulkhead and then build a motor well up from there. That part is not all the way thought out. Any thoughts on that. I'll draw it out and post later.
NK
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1207.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21743&title=stringers-stripped-down&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12101.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21748&title=stringers-stripped-down&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1208.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21745&title=stringers-stripped-down&cat=500)
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Looks really clean. If you want to stiffen the hull I would scruff up the hull sides and 6-8 inches of the hull bottom where it meets the sides. Then laminate 1708 down the hull sides and past the chine 6-8". Here is how I did mine.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0609.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6576&title=cimg0609&cat=646)
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I think I will! Might as well while I'm in here.
Thanks,
NK
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How's the rebuild coming along? Want to see more!!
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Just back from fishing trip to Mex. Hope to get started this week if weather improves a little.
I have transom cut and I'm ready to re-foam stringers.
Stay tuned.
NK
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12891.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21937&title=stringer-rebuild&cat=500)
Inside of stringer - ply, filet, glass
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1290.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21939&title=stringer-rebuild&cat=500)
Stringer
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12941.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21940&title=stringer-rebuild&cat=500)
Frame cut away - Maybe should have left it on but a lot easier to move around inside.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14361.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21943&title=stringer-rebuild&cat=500)
Plywood added to stringer to catch floor fasteners. I drilled holes to pour foam and relieve foam pressure. Poured 8 lb foam. Two, 2 gallon kits was not enough so I will fill rest with 4 lb.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1439.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21944&title=stringer-rebuild&cat=500)
Was only around 60 degrees when I was going to pour foam so I put plastic over top for an hour and got temp up inside to 80-90 as per recommendations for good foam expansion. Left it on while my buddy mixed and I poured. I was sweatin buckets.
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I want to glass the floor to the sides of the boat. How is this usually done? Do you install cleats or just tab it in after the floor is set on stringers? I looked around but didn't find any examples where I could really tell what was done. Appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
NK
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You can tie right into the sides of the hull and the transom. I used thickened epoxy to glue the floor down to the stringers and then placed about 10 cinder blocks to weigh it down while it kicked. Then I scruffed up the floor and hull sides where the joint would be, laid in a fillet and then used 1708 tape to tie it in.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1070.JPG)
I'm hoping you asked yourself this question as you were pulling the liner out - what am I going to do with this thing? Are you going to raise the stringer height to help the boat self bail or just drop it back in where it was? I raised the stringer height, glued the floor to the hull side/transom and then trimmed the bottom of the liner about 3", cut out the casting deck.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1133.JPG)
The casting deck had to be "grown" to fit back into the new hull sides. The anchor locker access had to modified since the casting deck now was at the bottom edge of opening. Lots to think about if you change the height of the stringers.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1128.JPG)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1150.JPG)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1151.JPG)
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Here is a pic after growing the size of the casting deck plus I decided to cut in another access hatch in the front of the deck. Doesn't show the mods to the anchor locker opening.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1215.JPG)
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Rainboat - hope we didn't scare you off. Did you decide what you're going to do with the floor and liner?
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It'll take more than well intentioned help to scare me off. Thanks for the feedback RickK.
I am thinking of raising the floor above stringer height by 1.5 inches. I think that will be about 1" above (maybe a little more) where it was before. I want it to drain but I want a little height between me and the very cold Pacific.
I'm going to cut the liner up like you did and attach to the floor. I think I can see what you mean about having to grow the casting deck but I'm not totally clear on this part. I was thinking of cutting the front of the casting deck up just like the liner. I want to support the casting deck. Can I get around growing the deck by not shimming the floor under the casting deck and just keep it "stock" height? It wasn't supported before.
I'm also not clear on what you mean by changes brought on by "new hull sides"'.
Thanks for the feedback and sorry for the delayed response.
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Here are some pics from the last few days of work:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14454.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21960&title=transom-2fbulkhead-2fknees&cat=500)
I went with the bolt through method. Work ok. Middle of transom remains about an 1/8" in from flat.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14462.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21961&title=transom-2fbulkhead-2fknees&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14562.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21963&title=transom-2fbulkhead-2fknees&cat=500)
I decided to do this bulkhead/knee combo so that I can see into the bilge through a hatch. Also so I can easily mount and access a bilge pump.
Couple other perspectives of same below:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1457.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21964&title=transom-2fbulkhead-2fknees&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14552.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21962&title=transom-2fbulkhead-2fknees&cat=500)
Maybe a good idea? Maybe not? Thanks for checking it out.
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I know...I don't have a drain plumbed. I'll have to figure out down the road. Oops.
nk
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Plumbing. To see what the problem is now, take a small bucket of water and pour it into the center of the hull. Make sure the hull is like it would be sitting in the water. Since you've added the layers of glass and the core you'll get to see the same problem I see in my boat and why I came up with the pipe approach. Bummer.
Back to your questions: First of all, your craftsmanship looks great. You want to raise the floor an inch or 2. Are you going to attach the floor to the hullsides? If you look at my liner you'll see that I have a removeable rod holder insert, you don't. I had about 5 inches below the bottom opening so I could trim off 3 inches, yours is different - you need to analyze that and see how to deal with that. My casting deck "front" is removable (I use a slab of Brazilian Mahogany) and the bottom of that storage needed to sit above the floor so I could have a place to glass it in. I ran the floor up into the front enough to set the casting deck on top of it and I glued it there. To grow the size of the casting deck I laid it face down on a flat surface and laminated pieces of 1708 onto the edges until I got it where I needed it to reach the "new sides" - where the new edges met the liner.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1200.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9894&title=cimg1200&cat=646)
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BTW, I used epoxy below the floor and polyester above the floor. What you see in the above pic is poly.
I tabbed in the floor to the hullsides with epoxy because I could hide it behind the liner. I used poly up top because I was going to gelcoat the inside.
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Members have probably posted this before but I couldn't find on this site.
Beyond the magnificent beard on Bertie Higgins this video has some great footage of what looks like an Aquasport 170 throughout (Starts min-1:15).
Yacht Rock...so smooth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru2tsT32pHA
For fans of Yacht Rock history and hilarious comedy check out this series:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMTI8vg7A5U
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14641.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22008&title=stringer-glass&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1465.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22009&title=stringer-glass&cat=500)
Got a layer of 1708 on stringers. How many layers to folks usually lay down on stringers?
NK
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Looks good - a couple layers is all you need. I don't see mention of what you are going to use for power on the boat but I do see a pretty high notch on the transom. Care to share?
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Members have probably posted this before but I couldn't find on this site.
Beyond the magnificent beard on Bertie Higgins this video has some great footage of what looks like an Aquasport 170 throughout (Starts min-1:15).
Yacht Rock...so smooth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru2tsT32pHA
For fans of Yacht Rock history and hilarious comedy check out this series:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMTI8vg7A5U
I'm going to take a swag and say I don't think the boat is an Aquasport - first off, the little bit of the badging I can see at the rear of the hull doesn't look like an Aquasport badge. Also the lifting strakes on a 170 hull started approx 1 foot from the prow of the hull. The strakes on that hull seem to start almost at the prow.
Aquasport 170 - (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/745/custom170-pg2.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11796&title=custom170-pg2&cat=745)
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That's a good question. I raised the transom 5" to 25". Ideally I would put on an outboard that will work with this height but I'm not sure what will end up on there. I would like to keep it high but if I have to I will cut it lower. I was reading that some folks have also raised to 25. I like the extra height.
Thanks,
NK
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Yeah, I think you are correct. Good eye.
NK
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Some people have raised the sides of their transom to protect from getting swamped. I can't think of a 170 that raised their transom height above 20" though.
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I put " 25" Transom" in the search a few posts come up. I can always cut it down but doesn't a 25" shaft require a 25" approx. transom?
NK
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Yup, or a way to raise the motor 5"
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I briefly considered raising mine to 25”. Engine manufacturers do make some good XL mid range outboards. Honda for sure makes a 25” 90hp. I would possibly consider some knee braces if you keep it high though. Not sure if yours are going to remain full height or get cut at deck level? If it was me I’d want to address the extra flexure that the taller transom will see.
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Mine will remain full height to create storage on each side and open below motor well in the middle.
Thanks,
NK
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Installing cleat on sides to catch the new deck.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1527.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22053&title=img-1527&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15282.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22054&title=img-15282&cat=500)
I'll remark the deck height and plane the cleat to the correct height and add a filet underneath.
Also rebuilding coffin to fit new 18 gallon tank.
NK
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The factory tank on the 170 was a 27 gal - and was inside the console, at least mine was. 18gal will be a short trip tank for sure, my 90 burns about 6 gals per hour at 30 mph.
That ledger cleat looks like it'll do the trick.
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Rainboat, are you in the northwest? I see it’s on a pacific trailer
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Yessir, I'm in Eureka CA. just an hour or so south of the Oregon border.
I guess I don't go as far as a lot of folks. The weather changes quickly around here and really, the fishing grounds are 25 miles or less away. At 100 miles per tank I can fish all day. I also don't like to let gas sit in my tanks-it seems to cause problems. I throw race cans in the boat when I take my console skiff (9 gallon tank) to far away reefs. Boat will be used primarily in nearshore and protected waters. Mostly fishing for rockfish, ling, cal hal, pacific hal, salmon. Hope albacore come in close but usually jump into a bigger boat for the long runs offshore.
Thanks for looking, I appreciate the feedback. I don't see many AS around but I have heard of a few.
Are you in the NW Fishhead?
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Eureka, ok. I’m just south of sac fish sf bay and ocean. Love it up by you, grew up every summer fishing mouth of Klamath, grandfather did some guiding there in late 60s. Been 20 years since fishing Humboldt bay for buts and clams for me. I know the halibut are still around but how about clams? You may know one of my grade school friends from down here Kenney priest guides up there. I saw a good tuna bite in crescent couple weeks ago, your right the weather windows are small up there. Stay safe and great job on the boat
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The Klamath is an amazing place! Salmon, sharks, seals, whales, people, huge waves...so amazing up there.
Your friend doesn't ring a bell but I don't go up there a ton. That CC tuna bite was amazing...I only heard about it though. Hope it happens again.
Clamming is still good and razor season was opened back up after 5 years. Surprisingly slow for no pressure for the past 5 but maybe my friends were in the wrong area.
NK
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Deck plywood is cut. Glass coming soon. Went surprisingly smoothly. Cardboard template, hand plane, all good...I think.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15632.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22155&title=new-deck-fit&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15821.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22156&title=new-deck-fit&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15833.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22157&title=new-deck-fit&cat=500)
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:thumleft: Looking good.
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:great02:
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Great job! Looking good! :thumleft:
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I finally got back on the project a little bit. Put the rest of the deck in and ut a coat of epoxy on. Also ran a filet along the deck/gunwale transition so I can add some tabbing. I'm going to glass the deck. I'm curious how heavy folks usually glass the deck?
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18892.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22319&title=floor-filet&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1890.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22321&title=floor-filet&cat=500)
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_20091.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22600&title=img-20091&cat=500)
I took the gel coat off to take a better look at the hull and previous repairs. I have a couple of questions
It looks like I have to fill some areas to bring them level with the rest of the hull.
Do people usually fill with layers of glass or with fairing material then glass?
There are a lot of pinhole and small voids in the hull after sanding gel coat. Should I mix a thin slurry to fill? I'm thinking of adding a layer of glass to the hull after filling pinholes.
Are the lifting strakes hollow or solid?
Thanks,
N
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I dont have experience with this, but I would imagine you'd want to fill the holes first, then glass
How did you end up flipping the hull? Im not at that stage of my build yet, but ive been trying to come up with a good way for when the time comes...
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To flip it I got it off the trailer onto pads on the ground. I then lag bolted two (three or four may be better) 2x8's to the top of each rail. Like two big thwarts at rail level where the liner attaches. Then six guys lifted and rolled it. I put some soft stuff under the rail and tried to get it over smoothly without letting all the weight sit on the gunwale. Seemed to go well. The epoxy cracked on some plywood (not deck) I had attached to the gunwale. Not too structural so I'll just filet back on. The guys lifted it up and I put horses underneath.
It was a little dicey but I think its all ok.
I should have taken pictures.
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Cool rebuild. What are your finishes going to look like? Gelcoat or two part paint? I would say to fill all the pinholes with a thickened (cabosil) resin and then going over the hull bottom with a layer of 1708 glass and then mat for sanding smooth. I didn't catch if you went down to the bare inside of hull with 1708 like Rickk but if not this would make it extra strong. However, it might be difficult to get all the contours and radius around the lifting strikes just right. For larger than about 1/4 -3/8'' voids, I would taper/prep the void and lay up some glass.
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When I ground down the bottom of my hull I found two big low areas by the ransom that were bowed up toward the hull, like a "hook" in the hull. It was like 3/8" so I decided to fill it in. I used various sized pieces of CSM and built it up and then faired all of that in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1442.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1444.JPG)
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A little more progress. Put a layer of 1708 on the bottom (didn't go too smoothly). Also put a skeg on the bottom. Skeg is Batu (mahogany) epoxy + filet + tab.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2313.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22826&title=skeg&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2312.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22825&title=skeg&cat=500)
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It will be interesting to see how that skeg affects the hull handling. The 170 handled fine in its original design - no sliding, turned fine. That skeg is very aggressive looking - I would think a 1/2" tall skeg would have done the trick.
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I'll let you know. I have one on my other boat, works great. Easily modified.
N