Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes > 165/170/175 Rebuilds

1987 170 transom/deck rebuild

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Doherty8:
  I picked up a 1987 Aquasport 170 a couple weeks ago with no motor on, knowing it had two minor soft spots next to the seat. After further inspection noticed if I stuck a stick into the lower left outboard mounting hole I could build a garden with the mulch coming out. It felt solid otherwise and passed the hammer-rebound-and-sound test, so after a lot of self-debating whether or not to slap a motor on it and left it rip for awhile I've decided to get into "a little rebuild."

  My initial plan after reading plenty of forums and asking some people was to take the transom out from the top and do a seacast pour. Also maybe trying to inject the deck to firm the spots a little bit, I wasn't too worried about soft spots knowing that it 99% means rot but also knowing that a lot of times it's just the deck and doesn't make your hull explode upon impact with a wave.

  Long story short I have the boat wide open now with a full fledged deck/transom rebuild ahead of me. It kind of just happened the further I dug into it.

  I was going to wait until I finished to post all of the pictures so that if anyone else had a 1987 170 and they wanted an idea of what it looked like tore apart in pictures then they could have a reference point, but figured if I post some updates now then I'll have a lot of useful help from the pros. Hopefully I check it often enough to heed your advice (or warnings) before I dive in and do certain parts of the project, but for now here's some pictures because I know that's what the people come for. Sorry in advance if I don't reply quickly to responses.










This is where I attempted the transom rebuild from the top












I noticed the wood was A LOT better than I had anticipated from that one motor mount hole, and knowing I wanted to look under the deck anyways I decided to go with a traditional transom rebuild and remove the inner skin.













And then onto taking some of the stringers out to get to the full transom. I still don't plan on redoing the stringers anymore than retabbing a little bit maybe, but they definitely have some water in them.











Onto the console/t-top removal and then the entire deck after seeing how wet the wood was, knowing that heavy stuff as well as the waterlogged foam had to go. The weird thing was that the foam just in front of the bilge area and behind the fuel tank was completely bone dry.











The area just ahead of the fuel tank was holding water because the pvc tubes flowing under it had about $5 worth of old coins/screws/nuts/debris sitting in and around it. Snaked the junk out and shop-vacced it.











Any tips would be appreciated, posting this morning also allowed me to procrastinate a little bit from starting more work on the boat. Most of the stuff directly ahead is getting the rest of the wood off of the transom and a lot of grinding up a lot of the fiberglass.

RickK:
The coins usually come from people putting stuff in the anchor locker up front.
When you are tieing in the transom core you want the best mechanical attachment to hull sides and hull bottom. Usually you need room to work and that is usually 18" of clean glass from the inside of the transom. The typical lamination schedule is 2-3 layers of 1708 cloth on the inside of the ground down/clean transom fiberglass, then lay the core in, which is usually 2 layers of 3/4" marine ply or some composite to about 1.75" and then lay in 3 layers of 1708 cloth on the inside of the core.  The lamination overlaps are typically 3",6",9" or 4,8,12. By the time you're finished you will have laid in glass out to about 18" from the transom glass. That being said, you may need to cut out more of the liner on the sides to be able to work.
The center drain hole in the bottom of the transom is, at this time, the low point in the hull, thus allowing everything to drain out the garboard plug. As you add all the laminations of glass and the core, you are moving the low point forward and it will end up about a foot forward of the transom. Here are some threads to explain how to combat this. Many members have followed the instruction and been fine. I only wish I had thought of the problem before I did my rebuild.  :roll: I now have an inch or more of water in the aft of the boat. :embar:
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

larsli68:
Brings back memories!

Keep up the good work.  :thumleft:

//Lars

wingnut:
It's interesting to see the subtle differences in materials and construction just one year makes.

I think you made the right call on the transom removal. I poured mine, but was really saved by the fact that it was almost entirely rotten inside. I think it would have been VERY difficult to get all of the material out being mostly solid like yours.

larsli68:
1/3 of my transom was not rotten, and took 90% of the work to remove... I poured mine too, but would have done what you are doing, had I known how much work it was to remove it from the top.

//Lars

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