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91
22-2 Rebuilds / Re: Anyone have the factory side recessed dive ladder
« Last post by Ulysses485 on April 05, 2024, 01:17:47 PM »
There are photos on here and I think i have some saved that i will have to find. Please tell me you bought one and have a rebuild to share... :dancing:
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22-2 Rebuilds / Anyone have the factory side recessed dive ladder
« Last post by robert lawrence on April 05, 2024, 11:47:01 AM »
Does anyone have pics of the factory recessed side dive platforms? Thank you.
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Actually, I used 6-ounce cloth, not "6-inch cloth".

M
94
I’ve been piddling around on this project until the weather and my schedule line up to finish the deck rebuild. I replaced the seals on the hydraulic steering, which stopped the leak at the stern. The manufacturer specifies some pricey hydraulic fluid (which they market @ $27 a quart at West Marine) for their unit, but I will continue to use ATF until I’m satisfied that all problems with the steering have been resolved. I run the engines every few weeks and consider it a victory when I can start them without using starting fluid. I’ve treated the engines with Seafoam a few times, and they do seem to be running more smoothly now, but they really need to be run in the water.

The previous owner said the trim tabs had never worked while he owned the boat, so I removed the tabs' hydraulic power unit, figuring that a failing seal had allowed the hydraulic fluid to leak out.   The unit has a “quick connector” and is easily removed, and that is part of the problem with this system.


The hydraulic power unit is easily accessed at the stern.


Corroded connector and wiring for the trim tabs' hydraulic power unit. I suspect that quick connectors in the bilge never last long.

The pins were badly corroded, and all the wires on one part of the connector fell out when I tugged on it. The fluid reservoir was full with no sign of leakage, and I was hoping that just replacing the connector would fix the problem, but when I bench-tested the unit as per the manufacturer’s instructions, I found that although the solenoid valves functioned normally, the pump would operate in one direction but not the other. The Bennett technical support guy gave me some bad news – “one of the windings on your motor has failed”. There doesn’t seem to be an easy fix for this beyond replacing the motor, and the Bennett web site doesn’t list the motor as a separate replacement part, so I would be replacing the entire power unit. If I can’t find an inexpensive replacement somewhere, I might just replace the entire trim tab system, but for now that job goes to the bottom of the priority list. Any advice about dealing with these trim tabs would be appreciated.

I did manage to resume the deck work by reinforcing the edges of the Coosa boards where they will slip between the layers of fiberglass. I used some 4-inch biaxial tape cut in half lengthwise, but I ran out and wound up finishing with some 6-inch cloth, which I liked better because it’s a little thinner than the biaxial tape.


Reinforcing the Coosa board edges with epoxy and fiberglass tape. This should strengthen the joint when the deck pieces are reassembled. I trimmed some of the rough edges with a box cutter after the epoxy gelled and removed the rest with careful use of an angle grinder with a diamond blade after the epoxy had completely set up.

M
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191 Rebuilds / Re: 19-1 question
« Last post by RickK on April 04, 2024, 05:17:57 AM »
I don't think any of us can get into the mind of the designer. It was just a different hull with full length strakes that exit out the transom - no other Aquasport has those.
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22-2 Rebuilds / Re: 1975 Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild_PWH70
« Last post by pwh70 on April 04, 2024, 12:10:51 AM »
I feel like I should have more than this to show from today.
Major snowstorm here tonight/tomorrow... staying home and refusing to shovel a single inch of it.

A little more about this developing cabinet.. the livewell is sitting on a floor that is 4" above the deck. The bulkhead at the face of the livewell will have arched cutouts at deck level to allow any deck water to flow through and out the scuppers in the transom. There will be enough room to reach through and clean anything out if necessary.
The 4" floor will be the base of the storage cabinets under each seat (either side of the livewell). Each seatback cushion will have an access plate behind it, that when removed will provide access to the fuel/water separator, rigging, wash down pump, livewell plumbing etc... that will be mounted in or routed through the area between the cabinet and the face of the transom.







thanks for looking - Paul
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191 Rebuilds / 19-1 question
« Last post by robert lawrence on April 03, 2024, 05:52:21 PM »
Does anyone know why the 19-1’s had the bottom hull pad vice being a complete flat back? Almost reminds me of how a lot of Pangas have a hull pad. Was just curious to know. Thanks
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Aquasport Discussion / Re: Aquasport 222 flat back shell or hull question
« Last post by KWM on April 03, 2024, 01:12:13 PM »
Thanks guys!! Good info. Looking at buying one completed.
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22-2 Rebuilds / Re: 1975 Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild_PWH70
« Last post by pwh70 on April 03, 2024, 09:06:49 AM »
What are your plans for plumbing it?
Pretty amazing how as large as these boats are they came with so little functional storage. Lots of room for improvement in organization.

You're right about that... I've added quite a bit of storage, almost all from ideas I've seen looking through this site.
All the way forward, I'm converting the bow bilge area to anchor storage and about 100' of anchor line. I added a bulkhead under the casting deck to define this area, which also reinforces the deck. It's the place where most people step pretty heavily into the boat when they're coming on from a dock, so the reinforcement will be good. For me, that frees up the entire wide hatch up forward (original fish locker) because that's where I kept the anchor and line previously.
I also added two long compartments on either side of the center console, outboard of each stringer. And a big storage compartment directly under the leaning post, behind the fuel tank and forward of the rear bilge. This one will be a little less convenient to get into, so will be a good spot for utility things, freeing up the other hatches for more frequently used stuff. And then finally the two smaller spots under the seating at the transom.

Regarding livewell plumbing - I don't fish with live bait a lot, so I'm not getting too fancy. There's a Johnson pump mounted directly onto the bilge seacock, which will feed the wash down pump and also supply a discharge directly into the livewell. My previous well had a second pump to assist the discharge out and over the transom. I was constantly trying to balance them. I'm hoping to properly size a gravity discharge opening at the top of the livewell, which will exit out through the transom. I'd like to avoid trying to balance two pumps if I can. No aeration or anything like that, my previous setup did ok without it. Just a circular water flow, in at the bottom and out through the top. The water stays pretty cold up here in NH, and the mackerel hold up for quite a while.
To drain the well empty, will just be a plug out the bottom that will drain the water onto the deck and out through the scuppers.

I'll include some pics when I get to mounting all of that.

Thanks for looking, Paul
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22-2 Rebuilds / Re: 1975 Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild_PWH70
« Last post by Gatorgrizz27 on April 03, 2024, 06:19:01 AM »
Nice work! The transom/bracket/rear seating/livewell is what I’d eventually like to do with mine, even using that same tank. What are your plans for plumbing it?

Pretty amazing how as large as these boats are they came with so little functional storage. Lots of room for improvement in organization.
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