Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 191 Rebuilds => Topic started by: tylertarpon10 on May 25, 2022, 02:10:23 AM
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Hey guys, I just picked up this 1972 Aquasport, I am not sure exactly what size but I think it is a 191 based on the title but the seller told me it was a 19'6. It had a 115 Evinrude which I think was the original motor on it.
I am a 23-year college student about to finish up school and wanted to take on the challenge of this restore to understand and learn everything I can. I am pretty mechanically inclined with my hands and there is no better feeling than knowing every inch of your boat and customizing it to how you want it. I have learned a great deal already from these forums and would like to know more.
I am in the process of removing the foam from the stringers, which I will need to cut the tops off and get all of it out.
I took the motor off and figured the wood core would be rotted out. I will be raising the transom to enclose the cockpit.
All my photos are too large and not too sure how to make my images smaller, will post more pictures once I figure it out!
I will update and keep posting pictures as I progress. any feedback is appreciated! :thumleft:
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Heres some more photos of some progress I am made.
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Nice flatform for a rebuild. That's a 191 for sure. The 19-6 is more well known and there are many more of them out there so they are sometimes mislabeled as such. Not the first time I have seen this happen. The 191 is the little brother to the 222 flatback that was made in the mid to late 60s up to about 1972 where the modified vee (12 degree) hull was designed and became their foundation design through the 70s and 80s. There are a few rebuilds of the 191 on here to look over and the 222 flatback is a very similar design so following those builds can be helpful as well.
The best way to post photos are to upload them from your mobile device using the following below instructions https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
Once you have uploaded them I find that it is easier to get on a computer and copy and paste the image codes to your post (as well as edit the ones that are sideways). You will get much better feedback because the viewing experience is MUCH better and the details in the photos are not lost due to shrinking for formatting. Photos go a long way with these rebuilds and most everyone on the site that has been through a rebuild is more than willing to help. However, it makes it hard to help when we cant see what you see, if that makes any sense.
Wishing you the best with the build and keep us updated
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Nice start. The 191s normally had the console pushed up forward to the front deck and are more rare for sure. What's the plan after demo?
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Tyler its easier to post pics if you follow the steps in this topic https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
The 191 was made in either a Gull or an Osprey configuration. The gull had a larger casting deck and the console was up to and a little on top of the casting deck. The Osprey model had the console set back about 2 ft back from the casting deck. Hard to tell the difference in the catalogs - we have plenty of rebuild examples in the 191 forum
https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=744
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Thanks for the image help!
I have begun cutting away the top sections of the stringers to get access to the foam.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/May_25.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22725&title=cutting-stringer-tops&cat=500)
I noticed that most of my stringers looked to be lifted from the hull from when the foam was put in. I am assuming I will have to cut all the lifted tabs of each stringer like in this photo and then make new fillets and retab all of them back to the hull? OR should I leave them alone as they are? I am leaning on the first option since I plan on refoaming with 4 lb close cell foam in the center and probably do 2lb on the outer stringers.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/may_25_pt2.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22726&title=cutting-stringer-tops&cat=500)
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Almost have all the foam taken out of the stringers. I saw that the port side stringer is detached from the side of the hull. I believe that the previous owner when they cut out the floor cut too deep and cut the stringer as well. There seems to be a small gap between the stringer and the side of the hull. My question is should I fill the stringer with foam then fill the gap with peanut butter then tab it back to the side of the hull OR do I need to ratchet strap the side of the hull/ butt up the side back to the stringer and tab it before I refoam? Or is this stringer no good and needs to be replaced?
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/port_stringer1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22767&title=stringers-26amp-3b-transom&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_stringer_hull_1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22764&title=stringers-26amp-3b-transom&cat=500)
My second question is about the transom. Should I cut the inner liner completely all the way to both sides of the hull so that way I can get access to the entire wood core? OR should I Keep what is there and re-tab the bottom section and the new Coosa board core for the enclosed transom.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stern_liner_1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22765&title=stringers-26amp-3b-transom&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom17.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22768&title=stringers-26amp-3b-transom&cat=500)
The next step is to pressure wash all the remainder of dirt and debris, then start sanding the entire inside hull with 36 grit and re-glass everything with at least one layer of 1708 for my peace of mind (primarily the bow).
Thanks for the help and feedback!
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There seems to be a small gap between the stringer and the side of the hull. My question is should I fill the stringer with foam then fill the gap with peanut butter then tab it back to the side of the hull OR do I need to ratchet strap the side of the hull/ butt up the side back to the stringer and tab it before I refoam? Or is this stringer no good and needs to be replaced?
My guess is that theres a width of stringer missing that needs to be replaced - I wouldn't ratchet strap the hull to try & move the hull to the stringer unless you're sure the hull is deformed which seems very doubtful.
It's going to be tough to get the liner out of the way so you can clean up the side of the hull to glass the stringer to. I had the same issue, ended up battling all the rubrail & cap screws then cutting the liner vertically just forward of the casting deck & temporarily removing it so I could do this work. You might get away with prying that liner away enough to do the same though.
Another option would be to glass whats left of the outboard stringer to the hull from 'inside' the stringer, it'll still be tough to prep the surface and you'll be working a little upside down but at least you wouldn't have to remove the liner.
Go ahead and get that side rod holder out of the way too.
For glassing the vertical walls of the stringers back to the hull bottom, I used a 4" wide strip of glass on the inside of all the stringers to reinforce the factory bond and it made a big difference in stiffening up the stringers. My stringers were still attached to the hull pretty good from the factory but seemed like it could be better.
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My second question is about the transom. Should I cut the inner liner completely all the way to both sides of the hull so that way I can get access to the entire wood core? OR should I Keep what is there and re-tab the bottom section and the new Coosa board core for the enclosed transom.
On mine I removed the inner liner from the transom plus about 8 inches of the side liner and about the same from all the stringers. That'll let you tab the transom core to the hull sides and bottom real nice and get some good clamping pressure on the core to outside skin when setting the coosa. Definitely need to be able to tab the coosa to the hull sides and bottom really well.
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I agree with @dbiscayne.
The stringers were prefabricated and set in the hull with bonding putty.
I think the offending stringer is Pic#1? I see that the one side of the stringer is missing and it will be a challenge to replace it - not impossible but work will be involved, Filling the void with foam, regardless of the weight is not structural enough. Inside a formed trapezoid stringer, the foam is structural.
My thought is to make a flat workplace, maybe 4 ft, cover it with cheap painter drop cloth and laminate 2-3 layers of 1708 to make the missing piece of the stringer. Then cut the piece to fit. I would use epoxy to make the piece and use epoxy to attach it to the original after prepping the original, of course. Setting the piece into thickened resin, spoon it off (form fillet) and then tape the piece to all attaching places. Finally foam it it, cap it with glass and install the new floor. I used thickened epoxy to glue the floor to the stringers.
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@dbisayne And @RickK, thanks for the feedback! I have been going back and forth on how I am going to tab the stringer to the hull with the liner in the way. I will attempt it by going from underneath. However, If I can not prep the surface properly then I may end up removing the cap and liner temporarily.
Until then, I plan to remove the rod holders on the sides, cut the inner transom liner and stringers back about 8", and remove the rotten wood core. Sand down everything with 36 grit and prep the surface, fabricate new glass to fill the voids of the missing stringer, create fillets with thicken resin, then tab everything.
Once I have the stringers tabbed to the hull and in place ready for new foam, does the weight matter then? Or should 2lbs suffice for all the stringers.
Thanks for the help, will post more pictures soon of my progress.
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I used 4lb foam along the outer stringers, seemed like there was a better chance of the chine getting hit and figured it would help but that was just a guess. Used 2lb in the center stringers which felt pretty close to the original foam. With the extra glass I've added to the stringers I wasn't worried about the foam being a structural part. I will say this, the 4lb foam seems much much stronger than the 2.
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Small update, I cut the inner transom skin, the stringers, and the side liners back. Removed all the rotten wood, and sanded the transom skin entirely with 36 grit.
I still need to sand the hull sides and some more on the base of the hull in the bilge area to prep. I have some chips and cracks on the lip of the transom skin that I need to fill with thickened resin or "peanut butter". Same for all the holes as well, which I will do when I screw a melamine board on the outside of the transom.
On the bottom of the transom skin and the hull, there are spots of hard, rock-like putty by the drain plug and base of the skin that I need to grind away to make nice and flat for the fillets.
I have a list and will be heading to FGCI this weekend to start gathering my supplies. The question I have right now is what my layup and which resin should I use?
I will need to lay 2-3 layers of which I'm thinking 1708 to fill the transom skin void, then add three more layers across the entire transom with 1708 tabbed from 12', 8', 4' (in that order). would Poly resin be suitable or should I use epoxy for this? I have seen a lot of you guys say use epoxy below deck and poly above for Gelcoat reasons, however not sure with the transom.
Thanks for the feedback! I think I will start uploading my time-lapse videos of my build on Youtube eventually. :great02:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_before_21.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22778&title=transom-out-and-prepping&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_before1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22777&title=transom-out-and-prepping&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_holes2.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22779&title=transom-out-and-prepping&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_sanded1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22780&title=transom-out-and-prepping&cat=500)
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Sounds like you've thought it all through. Epoxy or Poly - hmmm. I used epoxy for the strength and ease of working with it. No rush usually to get everything laminated because you have long working times with epoxy unlike the short working times that poly brings with it. Which should you use is a personal choice. How are you going to finish the inside of the transom after the initial 3 layers of 1708, the core is added and then the final 3 layers of 1708 are tieing everything to the bottom and hull sides?
The inner transom liner was made from poly. Are you going to re-use that liner or is it all cut up?
Read through these links that explains what happens to the low point in the hull, as you lam up the transom.
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
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May stick with the poly for cost savings. I did use some poly today making peanut butter to fill holes and seems to have a decent amount of time before it got tacky so may go that route. Additionally, I would like to Gelcoat or Awlgrip the transom and deck to finish.
I think I will try and keep the liner to save time and money. I saved the pieces I cut that way I can attach them back later. I will try and figure out a way to lift the liner out of the way until then.
I plan to add a PVC pipe like you listed, I saw it in a different build you mentioned. Very smart, thank you!
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I will need to lay 2-3 layers of which I'm thinking 1708 to fill the transom skin void, then add three more layers across the entire transom with 1708 tabbed from 12', 8', 4' (in that order).
are you talking about adding a total of 5 - 6 layers against the inside transom, then the core, then more glass to the exposed inside core? Seems like too much. I believe I went with the following starting at the existing inside skin; 1 layer 1708, 1 layer 1.5 oz mat, let it tack up, then thickened peanut butter troweled on, new core, 2 layers 1708, then varying widths of strips along the edges overlapped onto the hull.
I used (2) 3/4" plywood for the core with mat+12oz cloth+mat+thickened troweled resin between the plywood, so layup might need to be different if your using a different core. I glued the (2) layers together & let dry before installing.
Be sure to have someone there to help out with this step, lots of glassing going on, clamping the core, etc. before the resin kicks.
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I plan on putting 5 layers, 2 to fill the transom to enclose it then three layers in varying sizes to tab to hull sides. Then attach the core which I will more than likely go with (1) 1/2" or (2) 3/4" Coosa boards for the core. Lastly, 2-3 layers to tab the core and make inner transom skin.
I saw that @Marcel had went that route on his 191 and seemed solid.
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gotcha, I agree closing in the transom would want some more strength. The thicker you make the core the strength gets much much stronger, like 4x stronger when you double the thickness or something like that. Did you mean (1) 1" or...
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Here's a little update, finishing up school, sold my truck got a new one, and found a great deal on a leaning post live well.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_post.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22875&title=leaning-post&cat=500)
Have reinforced the bottom of the stringer compartments and bulkhead areas. Put fillets at the base of each and added a layer of CSM and a layer of 1708 tape. I think I will be adding another layer of 1708 since this is structural.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull4.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22874&title=hull&cat=500)
Getting ready to start on the transom, sanded the fiberglass skin and marked where any holes are to be filled. Have decided to go the plywood route and seal it well. Any recommendations on wood? I have been thinking of doing marine plywood 4x8 sheets and sealing them thoroughly with resin.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom18.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22876&title=transom&cat=500)
will be getting more done once I graduate school in about a week.
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_31292.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22935&title=template&cat=500)
Filled in all the holes in the transom and then took her out to the boat ramp to see if she has any other holes and leaks. I did not seem to find any, so that is a good sign.
Made a template out of wood strips and hot glue.
I am not sure if I want to add a crown to the transom or make it flat across. pros and cons to each? what do you guys prefer? let me know since I would like to get the transom finished this week.
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I've always thought a slightly rounded crown looks better. But if you're going to have any hatches built into that area it'll obviously be a lot harder to do.
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A pro to crowning the transom is, it looks like you’re going to use the original cap and it already is dictating a slight crown.
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@tylertarpon10 - how will you be mounting the engine? Changing the config of the standard transom bring problems with it - like you can't tilt your engine up. Do you have a porta-bracket in your future?
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I plan on doing a porta bracket, My other question is do I need to raise the stringers to increase the deck height?
I would like to keep the original height and save a lot of time and money, however I am not sure if it is necessary?
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The only reason to raise the stringers is to make it self-baling.
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I have not decided if I wanted to raise them or not yet. I will decide when I get closer to that step.
I have bonded the transom core.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3532_Medium.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22936&title=transom-core&cat=500)
Started by cutting my two 3/4 inch plywood and coating them with thinned resin. I used styrene and polyester resin. Let that soak for about 15 min.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3557_Medium.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22939&title=transom-core&cat=500)
I waited until that got tacky and wetted out a layer of CSM.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3553_Medium.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22938&title=transom-core&cat=500)
Then screwed them together and put weights on them.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3546_Medium.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22937&title=transom-core&cat=500)
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give that wood a coat of thinned resin before final glassing, especially the edges, to help it last longer.
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DOH! Just saw where you mentioned the thinned resin already never mind.
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/layup1.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23082&title=transom-skin&cat=948)
A total of 6 layers of 1708 mocked up and clamped to the melamine board
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/melamine.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23083&title=transom-skin&cat=948)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/skin.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23084&title=transom-skin&cat=948)
I put 3 layers in the void to match the thickness of the existing skin however, it still needs another layer or two before clamp the transom core in.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/Melamine_off.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23081&title=transom-skin&cat=948)
The waxed melamine came off easy, nice, and smooth. My only concern is that screwing the melamine into the existing skin created a slight inward curvature that I did not notice. Can this be corrected or flattened when I clamp the core in?
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Starting to come together. Sorry to hear about the inward bow. How bad is it? Have you run a straight edge across the back to see that its consistent across the back or primarily at the edges?
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@tylertarpon10 - I had the same thing happen when I did my transom. I had a 3/8" inward bow. Couldn't do anything about it so continued on.
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Nice to see another 19-1 rebuild! I haven't been on here in the better part of a year. Glad I made it back to see this one in progress. Bringing back lots of memories. Guess I need to get back to work on mine....
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Life sure does get in the way to slow progress but one step at a time!
Did a bunch of test fitting of the transom core and when I put it in with just two small clamps, the outer skin inward bow was corrected and nearly level.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/flat_transom_skin.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23117&title=transom-core&cat=948)
It took awhile to get the core to sit just right since the fillets and the layers from the skin changed how it sat. I had to angle my cuts around the perimeter of it and seemed to fix that problem. I am not too worried about a small gap between the edge since I will be putting a thick fillet to bed it once it goes in.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/IMG_22521.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23116&title=transom-core&cat=948)
Went back and forth on ways to clamp the core to the outer skin and liked this one method I saw somewhere since it did not require drilling holes through the brand-new skin and core. However, I am a little skeptical to see if these will actually apply enough pressure on the distal end.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/transom_clamps.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23118&title=transom-core&cat=948)
This is what I tried to copy.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/Clamp_example.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23119&title=clamp-example&cat=948)
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Finally found a Moeller 35-gal gas tank in stock and went this route since I did not want to go down the metal custom tank route.
Since this tank does not sit completely within the stringers I am using Tampa Bay Mikes Idea with the 5x5 fence posts and going to cut them in half.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/948/Fence_post_gas_tank.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23115&title=transom-core&cat=948)
Still figuring out how I should make the tank coffin or tank supports underneath.
I also plan on placing the tank right behind the bow bulkhead almost center of the hull below the console area.
I have seen some 191s cut that bulkhead out completely and place the tank more forward under the casting deck. Does Having it where it is in the picture cause issues with weight/ balance or will it be fine? Id hate to cut out the large bulkhead in front.
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Front_bulkhead.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23120&title=front-bulkhead&cat=500)
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I think I've got the same tank, ended up getting the fittings from Moeller so that I could switch the location of the fuel pickup fitting and vent fitting. Placed my tank in the boat with the fill and vent at the front under the console, and the fuel pickup at the back/low end of the tank.
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@dbiscayne Do you have a picture from when you changed the locations? I may do that as well when I get to that point.
Got the core bonded in this weekend. Went through an entire gallon of bonding putty. I made some peanut butter and filled some of the bottoms after it was clamped. I still need to fill out the remainder of the perimeter on the sides of the core when I get some more putty or cabosil.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom_core_clamped.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23143&title=transom-core&cat=500)
If I were to do this again I probably would have just drilled 8 holes through the core and skin and pulled it in that way. I feel I would get better and even bottom pressure.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Outside_clamped.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23141&title=transom-core&cat=500)
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Yeah, I think everyone that applies the clamping the way you did (including me) had after thoughts on this approach. The clamps you made will do the job and the result will outlast you.
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when I moved the fittings on my tank I had to get the 4 items below, check Moellers website for more information www.moellermarine.com
some of the tank fittings have a hex head that look like they unscrew from the tank but they don't, they just swivel.
the anti siphon valve #2 screws into the withdrawal fitting #1 for the fuel supply.
#3 & #4 were for the vent fitting.
#1 Moeller Aluminum Withdrawal for Tanks, PL3 part on Moeller's site. Hose gets trimmed to required length.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MT95T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
#2 Seachoice Anti-Siphon Valve, 1/4 In. NPT, 3/8 In. Hose, Aluminum, Meets USCG Regulations,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IZKB36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#3 ICT Billet 5/8 to 1/2 Inch Hose Barb Splice Coupler, so that I could run 5/8" vent line from the tank fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084KTJ9RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#4 Billet Straight 1/4" NPT Pipe to 1/2" .500" Hose Barb Fitting Bare Aluminum AN840-08-04A. Used for the vent fitting.
I could not find a 1/4" NPT fitting with 5/8" Hose Barb anywhere, has to be same material it's screwing into or you'll get corrosion issues. If you do find one with a 5/8 barb you don't need #3 above.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSM3Z68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or you can source some of the stuff straight from Moeller
https://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/replacement-parts-permanent-fuel-tanks/
link to the 35 gal tank schematic
https://www.moellermarine.com/moeller-marine/fuel-containment/35-gallon-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032535/
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the schematic shows a 3/8 NPT fitting at the vent, mine was 1/4 might want to check your tank fittings before ordering parts. Both the fuel delivery and the vent fittings in my tank were the same size.
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Thank you for links and insight!
Over the weekend finished up the transom and tabbed the core to the hull sides.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Inner_skin_.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23169&title=inner-skin&cat=500)
Went with 2 layers of 1708 and took about a gallon of resin to wet out. Very happy with it and has little to no air bubbles.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Finished_transom.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23168&title=finished-transom&cat=500)
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Lookin Good!
One thing I found helpful when dealing with 1708, at least for the long narrow strips I used to cover the tops of the stringers and long tab pieces, was the following;
lay out the 1708 woven side down on a big work table then almost completely wet out the mat side.
roll the piece up and let it sit for a few minutes, get another piece done in the mean time.
put a very light coat of resin on the boat surface to be glassed.
take the rolled up piece and bring to the boat, very carefully unroll it taking care not to stretch the glass. It'll stretch a little if you pull to hard. This should be done within 15-20 minutes of initially putting resin on the glass, check it once in a while it'll heat up when it gets close to the resin kicking off gotta work fast or with smaller pieces.
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Been grinding away.
attached the stringers to the transom with homemade forms.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/stringer_form.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23262&title=tank&cat=500)
Found out my tank was not going to work with the stringers even raising the deck 3 inches, so I modified them.
I cut them so that it goes straight down that way the entire tank can sit lower.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/stringers_cut.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23263&title=tank&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/modifying_stringers.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23261&title=tank&cat=500)
Now the tank sits perfectly between them with plenty of room to clear the deck.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tank_laying.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23264&title=tank&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/fence_post_mock.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23260&title=tank&cat=500)
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Much more room for expansion as well as fill hoses, rigging tubes etc.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3728.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23265&title=tank-mocked-up&cat=500)
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I have begun glassing the fence posts to the stringers and foam filled the other ones. I drilled the limber holes for drainage in the middle stringers which is ready for a pipe and glass.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Tabbing.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23268&title=stringer&cat=500)
I put three layers of 1708 on the tops and majority of the sides and its solid. I still need to tab them to the hull. I may add one finaly layer over everything after but not sure yet.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/limber_holes.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23269&title=stringer&cat=500)
Port stringer back filled and cut to level, The side stringers are solid and wide.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_stringer2.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23267&title=stringer&cat=500)
Going to be cutting all foam level and backfilling the inside of the stringers with foam. Once level I will tab them to the hull sides.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Middle_stringers.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23266&title=stringer&cat=500)
I am starting to plan on how to run rigging/ chase tubes for fuel lines, fuel pickup, electrical wires, etc. I plan on using 3 inch PVC pipe with 45 degree elbows but I am not sure on how I should lay it out. Anyone have any suggestions and how to run/place the pipes?
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This is how I ran mine. It takes quite a bit of for planning because you have a lot of stuff coming out of the console and it won't all fit in one pipe. I decided that I needed a place to bring the "stuff" up through the floor in a water protected place. I designed and built cabinets that sit in each corner in the aft, so I needed to run the pipes to the corners - you may not need to do this. Here is the start of the layout https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg106490#msg106490
For me the throttle and shifter cables are the worst for making transitions so I needed to add 3" 45s for the cable to make it through. https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg107047#msg107047
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg126879#msg126879
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Got the stringers 90% fiberglassed and done.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_40032.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23299&title=rigging&cat=500)
Used some bonding putty and some PVC board as tank supports. I will put neoprene rubber with 3M adhesive on these for the tank to rest on.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_40042.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23300&title=rigging&cat=500)
Added another bulkhead to close off the fuel tank compartment.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_40022.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23298&title=rigging&cat=500)
Waiting for my fuel hose and vent hose to arrive. This is currently how I have my rigging all dry fit and mocked up. The white 3inch pipe is for throttle cables and steering. The grey PVC conduit tube I used 1 & 1/2 inch going toward the back will be for the fuel pickup and electrical wires.
The grey PVC conduit tube heading toward the front under the casting deck will be for electrical wires for nav lights, speakers, etc.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_40011.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23297&title=rigging&cat=500)
The fuel intake hose will go through the middle port side stringer right by the intake on the tank.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_40051.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23301&title=rigging&cat=500)
I plan on making this a simple boat and have a removable/mobile livewell and simple electronics but adding more later down the road. Before I begin doing the deck I wanted to see what else I may need to add or plan for before I get the floor bonded down?
I went and got four 3/4 inch Nidacore honey comb panels to start preparing and measuring my deck.
My only questions for this process is how are most people laying their panels across the stringers?
I am not sure if I should span them length wise and have the joints meet on top of the middle stringers OR lay them horizontally?
My layup schedule for the Nidacore is bottom side a layer of 1708 and top side a layer of 1708 and a layer of 3/4 ounce CSM.
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I laid 3 sheets of nida core horizontally on my 200 with 2 layers of 1708 top and bottom . Solid as a rock. I also put down a layer of peel ply on the top last layer to help reduce fairing time. It seemed to work pretty good.
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Nice clean work Tyler :nSalute:
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Found an awesome tower and leaning post that pair nicely together. This tower with a few modifications from my local welder will allow me to utilize the original console from the boat. I plan on shortening the back legs to match the front and have it flush to the floor. Will be a nice half tower!
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_42981.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23332&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
The original console and the tower is wider than the center stringers however.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_42991.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23333&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
Was able to cut out my main deck out up to the start of the casting deck from my nidacore honeycomb panels.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_42971.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23331&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
Got my fuel tank coffin and all of the below deck compartments all bilge coated. I will be planning on installing my fuel tank and getting the hoses installed next.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_42961.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23330&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_42951.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23329&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
Going forward, Having the tower and leaning post I am unsure how to go about getting these mounted in the future. I know that these honeycomb panels are not great at holding screws. What do you guys recommend I do to keep these from ripping out of the floor or crushing the honeycomb core?
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I would cut a section out of the console front to back to make it narrower to fit on the stringer tops, then glass the two sides together. As for the Tower mounting, I would fab some boxes that are as tall as the stringers plus nidacore and glass them to the hull bottom and stringer sides (sorry about your bilge cote). I would make the tops extra thick (maybe 6 layers of 1708) and drill some threaded inserts into them so you can bolt the tower to them. You then notch the nidacore around the boxes and glass the nidacore to the boxes with the top layer of glass you were going to lam onto the sole. Now the tower should be attached securely to the boat, not just the sole.
Here is what I used to attach the tank lid and also the leaning post to my boat
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg114773#msg114773
For the console I made some fiberglass angles and through bolted them through the tank lid. I then found some T-nuts and drilled holes for them to sit in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1783.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1788.JPG)
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I like RikK's idea, just want to point out that if you do it that way be sure to make the boxes where they are glassed to the hull bottom bigger/longer vs smaller. The idea being that you don't want to create a point load or hard spot on the hull that could eventually lead to the hull tearing along the line of the box. The glass between the stringers does move up & down a little, have seen more than one hull 'tear' along a stringer line from too small of connection tab between stringer & hull.
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Haven't posted on here in a few months, but I have still been grinding away at it! I post on my instagram since it is a little easier, If anyone would like to keep track of my daily updates you can. you can follow @Capt_Rupe.
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Cut bilge access hatch and a hatch for the important stuff on the fuel tank.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_58021.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23473&title=casting-deck&cat=500)
Bonded the main deck down with little more than a gallon of bonding putty.
Then I used half gallon to fill the perimeter and then create a filet for tabbing. Tabbed the sides with a layer of 1.5 ounce CSM then two layers of 1708.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_58031.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23474&title=casting-deck&cat=500)
this is where I am currently. Built a casting deck with supports all from Nidacore. she is a tank and was bonded using the same technique as the main deck. Just finished glassing the front face to the main deck. Just need to sand and prep the original liner to bare glass before I can tab the casting deck In.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_5804.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23475&title=casting-deck&cat=500)
Once I get this tabbed I am going to then bring the cap back on the boat and figure out where i need to support it at.
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Making good progress :great02: