When to throw in the towel? Steering Issue.

[TheKid]

also, if no one has told you ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50 is about the best and cheapest penetrating lube you can use.

Data:

April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test wrote:

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ...... Average load ..... Price per fluid ounce
None .................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds ...... $0.25
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds ...... $0.35
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds ...... $0.21
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ...... $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds ...... $0.10 (50/50 mix)

[wingtime]

WD-40 in the bulk gallon bottle... mixed with ATF in a squirt bottle works good too.  I'd be careful using acetone around fiberglass and plastic.   Even if you convert to hydraulic steering your still supposed to take the thing apart and lube inside of the tilt tube once a year.

[Georgie]

Ok, so if you now have the tip of the steering shaft stuck in the tube (and hopefully you weren't wailing on it with a 10lb sledge even after it became stuck ), here's the next step.  

Remove the steering nut from the starboard side of the engine.  That should allow you to spin the steering wheel clockwise and push the nut and cable away from the steering tube a bit thereby allowing some access to the inside of the tube and the back side of the steering shaft.  This will allow you to try two things.  One would be tapping on the starboard end of the now-exposed steering shaft itself from all angles with a punch or other similar tool.  If you work around it systematically and keep heat on the other end, it should eventually work its way out.  

Alternatively, you can get a LARGE crescent wrench, and set it just barely wider than the nicopress sleeve on the steering cable so that it's resting on the starboard side of the nut.  Then you have a large flat surface to hit with a mallet or hammer which provides good contact to drive the shaft back out the port side of the tube.  You may need someone holding the steering wheel during this maneuver.  I've had good success with this method although be forewarned it does beat up the nut a bit  (sorry, but I'll be the first to admit I'm a "function before form" guy...especially when desperate ).  

Once you free the shaft from the tube, don't cut down the end like you mentioned, but run the dremel with a cylindrical grinder bit around the outside circumference until you're SURE you've removed any mushroooming.  At that point you should be able to pull or tap the shaft through the steering tube without further complication since it won't require the huge amount of force you were using before.

[alandry100]

Ok - I have had it. I am going to replace the cable and the tube. It is an Ultraflex m66 ft 13274. I should be able to just replace the cable correct?

I am going to need get the tube - I have a 2004 Yamaha 70hp two stroke I think this is the correct part
866-43131-03-00.

I am going to use my neighbors tractor and take the weight off the engine - then it is just a matter of unscrewing and pulling the old assembly through then replacing the tube then the steering?

[seabob4]

Yep...although it's probably not gonna be as easy as my simple 1 word response...

[alandry100]

Seabob - are you suggesting I bring it to a shop?

[seabob4]

Seabob - are you suggesting I bring it to a shop?

Not at all, my friend.  But the tilt tube may give you a fight before it wants to come out.  Get the retaining nuts off both ends (they'll be on there tight!), then start spraying PB at the ends where the tube meets the motor...

[alandry100]

It looks like the nut on the port side is part of the tube - it looks to me that I need to take the starboard nut off and pound it through from starboard to port. I think I will cut the cable flush with the tube then pound through? I think in this case it may help that the steering rod is stuck. It will allow me to drive it through.

Is attaching the cable to the helm a difficult job?

[seabob4]

Do you know if you have a Teleflex helm or a Uflex helm (you have a Uflex cable)?  Teleflex's are easy.  Either pull the retaining cotter pin (on Big-Ts) or remove the (2) 1/4-20 retaining bolts, rotate the wheel and the cable backs right out.  Should be something similar on Uflex helms...

[alandry100]

Not sure what the helm is - but there is a cotter pin. I will check tomorrow in the light.

[alandry100]

Going to the shop in the morning - too busy to deal with it anymore and it's time for the boat to be in the water - stripers are here.

Does anybody have any suggestions as to how to secure the motor now that the steering arm is not attached. I have a short drive to the shop ~10mi?

[Capt. Bob]

Does anybody have any suggestions as to how to secure the motor now that the steering arm is not attached. I have a short drive to the shop ~10mi?

Lean the motor hard over in the direction of choice and secure it with a bungee or a stout hawser run from the midsection to a lifting ring or stern cleat. If the road to the shop has a lot of right turns, lean the motor midsection to the port side of the transom and to starboard if you have a number of lefts. That's really gettin' anal but you get the idea. Upon arrival, untie the hawser and be gone.

Good luck.

[Blue Agave]

At last we now have the answer to the proverbial question, "When to throw in the towel?"

Answer: "When the stripers are here!"  

[alandry100]

It's true.