Proud new owner of 200 CCP

[jdupree]

I am the proud new owner of a 1981 200 CCP with a 200 Mercury engine   As most of you know, I bought the boat from rsh19904 and his name is Ryan.  He went out of his way to perform any test that I requested (and there were many).  I was happy to buy this boat from such an honest person and a nice guy.

The boat looks like a 1981 model.  The deck and transom are solid as a rock.  The only thing is the access hatch over the fuel tank is mushy and weak so I assume the wood is rotted.  I plan to start on that soon.  Rest of the vessel appears to be very solid.  The bottom needs to be soda blasted so if any one know someone in North Carolina who they could refer that would be great The hull is brown as you know with various scratches and a gouge or two.  Needs new decals but debating whether to paint the hull or wait till next year.  The interior looks pretty good for a 1981.  Has some spider webbing here and there and some gel coat cracks.  Looks like I will be pretty busy fixing gelcoat cracks.  The inside needs to be compounded because the white part has oxidized to the point that there is not much shine.  The coffin box is in good shape but needs to be painted.

My goal is to bring this boat back to the original look as possible.  The only thing that is missing is the spash door that keeps water from entering the boat from the splash well.  Based on brochures I have seen, the original door was teak.  Where and the world can I find this or get replacement teak Also, the 2 hatches that are on the stern were also teak and are gone.  The owner before myself and Ryan replaced them with cutting boards which look like crap.  Again, if anyone has any ideas about where to find teak for those items it would be greatly appreciated.

This will not be a major overhaul, but I will post pictures of some of the work that I have planned as I complete it.

[JimCt]

Congratulations, John!

  Good to hear she's in such great shape.  There'll always be projects and this & that which needs attending to; that's part of the game.  Look forward to seeing a bunch of pictures.

If you have a boat yard in your area they'll no doubt will have some teak around in the wood shop.  For patterns maybe someone will send along pictures and dimensions.

[damnitbadger]

Check over @ Classic Mako. There are a lot of links to suppliers. Glad it worked out for both of you.

[rsh19904]

Hey John,

hope you have as much fun with her as I did  :cry: .   The classic mako board is a great resource for that kinda stuff since those older ones were loaded with teak.   Gotta keep us posted on the results and plenty of pix...

 

[jdupree]

My project will by no means be an overhaul.  Just several cosmetic things to make the boat look as new as possible.  I will post some pictures of when I get started.  Might even start a simple thread under re-builds when I get ready.

Just 2 quick questions.  The white on the interior is oxidized some and has that white chalk look.  What would be a good thing to use to bring back some of the shine without having to get in there with a big buffer Also, the center console looks like it has been shot full of holes from things over the years.  I plan to pull the console out and fill all the holes so I can re-paint.  What can I use to fill the holes on the console and other places on the boat that would be easy to sand Thanks

[JimCt]

For the chalking, try some  car compound on a rag then wax it.  Will be a bit of a job but results should be worth it.

Have filled a ton of holes with resin mixed with cabosil thixotropic powder.  Sands reasonably.

[Bluesbrother]

Congrats, I am sure it will bring the desired step up from the 170. 8)  8)

[RickK]

Congrats, I am sure it will bring the desired step up from the 170. 8)  8)

You can't "step up" from a 170 - any other boat is just that, another boat  
Sorry to see you leave the "170 club" John, congrats and glad it worked out for you.

[ddd222]

jd, congrats on the new boat, u and i talked about my boat but i've been busy and storage is already paid and i've been so busy, but looks like u SCORED! A few suggestions that u had questions about, 1st being interior glass polishing. I'm not anti-compund by any means, but i would try something slightly less "nuke"(for lack of a better word)to get some gloss back to the interior, or exterior for that matter. I would give 3M color restorer a try before even the gentlest compound. I also like the result by hand if u have the time, literally the harder u rub, the brighter the surface gets. I used to detail for a living and a wheel was always used, but to much room for error even in trusted hands. For example whether a car or boat when waxing, glazing, compounding when i said the harder u rub the brighter it gets, there is a point of "diminishing returns". U want to rub or buff hard enough to actually heat up a given area, but there is a temperature that car paint, boat paint/gelcoat etc. will be damaged rather than polished. A wheel in inexperienced hands can behead a perfectionist. By hand gives u an actual feeling on your fingertips. Any 3M product isn't cheap but a far superior product and the "color restorer" i highly recommend as a 1st option.
       With regards to a missing splash door i think u said it was teak or mohagany, i strongly suggest starboard or seaboard. I prefer the look of a finely finished piece of functional boat wood myself, but found little time given other projects. Given the function splash doors serve a star/sea board replacement will look great and need no maintenance for 30 years. Good luck and share some pics

[jdupree]

jd, congrats on the new boat, u and i talked about my boat but i've been busy and storage is already paid and i've been so busy, but looks like u SCORED! A few suggestions that u had questions about, 1st being interior glass polishing. I'm not anti-compund by any means, but i would try something slightly less "nuke"(for lack of a better word)to get some gloss back to the interior, or exterior for that matter. I would give 3M color restorer a try before even the gentlest compound. I also like the result by hand if u have the time, literally the harder u rub, the brighter the surface gets. I used to detail for a living and a wheel was always used, but to much room for error even in trusted hands. For example whether a car or boat when waxing, glazing, compounding when i said the harder u rub the brighter it gets, there is a point of "diminishing returns". U want to rub or buff hard enough to actually heat up a given area, but there is a temperature that car paint, boat paint/gelcoat etc. will be damaged rather than polished. A wheel in inexperienced hands can behead a perfectionist. By hand gives u an actual feeling on your fingertips. Any 3M product isn't cheap but a far superior product and the "color restorer" i highly recommend as a 1st option.
       With regards to a missing splash door i think u said it was teak or mohagany, i strongly suggest starboard or seaboard. I prefer the look of a finely finished piece of functional boat wood myself, but found little time given other projects. Given the function splash doors serve a star/sea board replacement will look great and need no maintenance for 30 years. Good luck and share some pics[/quote

Thanks for the congrats and the info   I actually worked a little on the inside yesterday afternoon.  I tried 3m rubbing compund and it worked wonders on the inside.  It removed all of the oxidation and brought back some of the shine.  I did that by hand and it came out great.  I know JimCt had suggested rubbing compound and that what I was leaning toward to try.  I might go ahead and go over that with the 3m color restorer and see what we got

As far as the splash well door goes, I agree with you.  This boat has enough teak that needs to be refinished and I hate to add anymore.  Went to Boaters World last night and they have boards made by TACO that I have heard are excellent to make hatches and so forth out of.  I think it is the same stuff that you are talking about.  They are already finished and all you have to do is cut & fit.  They look really good so I plan to replace the hatches on the stern with the same thing.  Hope to get some pictures posted this weekend.  Thanks :)

[rsh19904]

Hey John,

i used the 3m marine color restorer/compound/wax stuff on the sides and used a buffer and it came out like a new penny..unfortunatly that was about 4 mo. prior to your coming up but it works great and makes it smooth as a baby's butt  

[jdupree]

Hey John,

i used the 3m marine color restorer/compound/wax stuff on the sides and used a buffer and it came out like a new penny..unfortunatly that was about 4 mo. prior to your coming up but it works great and makes it smooth as a baby's butt  

Ryan,

Thanks for the info I think I will head to Boater's World when I get a chance.  Got the inside looking really good.  Spent a whole day with a scrub brush and Greased Lightning and wow what a difference  

As soon as the weather is halfway warm, plan to remove the center console and re-core the hatch over the gas tank.  Based on how flimsy it is, I suspect that the wood is rotten which is very common on Aquasports.  This will also give me the chance to "peek" at the tank and see if it is the original.  I will post some pictures most likely on this thread as soon as I can get some.

[damnitbadger]

Try here for supplies and starboard
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com

[rsh19904]

never even thought about the greased lightning??  of course I just used car wash and a soft bristle brush so that's probably why I never got the shine up..did have some stuff (its in the garage at home) that worked really well on the deck, I did the same thing with the scrub brus and same thing    Wow what a diff..I'll get the name when I get home out of this h*ll hole they call work    

[GoneFission]

John:

Glad to hear you found your boat!  Regarding the spashwell door - I know you may want teak, but think 1/2" or 5/8" Starboard.  The Seafoam color starboard is a good match for the AS hull color, and you don't have to worry about finish, rot, etc.

I replaced my spashwell door with starboard and put a little stainless angle at the top to provide some additional structure - works great!  

I also replaced the original teak tackle box door with Starboard - looks better and is zero maintenance.  

If your center panel is soft, it is almost certainly original.  You can remove it by unscrewing the console and lifting it up without having to disconnect anything.  Then unscrew the center panel, use a knife to cut the caulk, and carefully take out the center panel.  You want to be careful, because you can reuse the center panel skin during the recore with the same nonskid, etc.  I've done this and it is not a big job - if you are uncertain, send me a PM or e-mail and I can walk you through it.  You will also want to clean the tank enclosure and inspect the tank and hoses.  Also, if you want to install an electronic fuel level sender and gauge - this is the time.  

Glad to hear you found the 200CCP you were looking for - a boat and owner that, to quote Bogey in Casablanca:  "could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship."