rotdoctor/seacast/wood--which?

[rburlington]

Which way should I go on the o/b transome repair on my 1981 Express Fsherman 24"6"?  Rotdoctor is a product that more or less stablelizes the rotten wood (assuming that you can get it to the bad places), Seacast is a filler one uses instead of putting a new wooden core, and the wood otion is a new wooden core.  Whichever method, I would be removing the glass from the outside of the boat as this would reduce messing around with the splash well, but increase the attention needed to how it is finished out.
Any suggestions as to which is best?  Any experiences with either Rotdoctor or Seacast?
I have a winter project before me.
Robert Gary

[LilRichard]

I think the seacast can be used by removing the old wood core with a chainsaw from the top, so you do not have to remove the outer glass on the transom to get at it.  There's a guy at FGCI that swears by seacast...

That being said, I opted for removing the core and replacing it with new wood... partially because I wanted to raise the transom to 25".

[RickK]

There are some pix of someone doing a repair with Seacast on this forum somewhere.  Maybe do a search on "Seacast"?

[protek9543]

If your going to remove the outter skin, why not just recore?

John

[rburlington]

Thanks for the helpful replies.  
One good question, "why not jus recore"?  I would, except somehow not doing so much woodwork appleals to someone of my skill level.  Pouring in seems less skill intensive than templates, fitting wood, and cutting into puzzle pieces that will both go into the space and be strong; although the air pocket problem with Seacast is also a skill issue that needs to be kept an eye on. Also, Seacast sounds like something that will not be subject to rot.   Nevertheless, if one treated wood with Rotdoctor before installing, that might result in a fix that does away with the possibility of having rot in the transom again five years out.  One given seems to be that transoms simply do not stay dry.  
I looked over old Seacast posts (thanks for the search suggestion) and found that it apparently works well, but also requires temps in the 70 to 80 degree range, making it a late spring to early summer kind of job in my part of the world.
Thanks again, and maybe I will be doing more thinking about than working on the transom this winter.
Robert Gary B

[LilRichard]

It would be my suggestion to recore- it's really not that difficult.  Someone with average wood and glass working skills can do it- probably not any more challenge than seacast.

[GoneFission]

I would go with SeaCast over any of the rot treatments - RotDoctor and GitRot are not really fixes, they just delay the eventual problem of replacing the rotten wood core.  SeaCast has a great following and you finish with a composite transom that will never rot again!  Check it out at:

http://www.transomrepair.com/transom/transom.html

Other alternatives to wood core include cored composites like Coosa.  

Good luck!

[John Jones]

I have to agree with Cap'n John.  I would stay away from the rot fix stuff.  I have seen some samples of the sea cast product.  It is stronger than any wood.  If the prep work was done properly, I believe it would do a good job.

[rburlington]

Thank you all for the inputs on my transom problem.  I hope that in the next week or two I can find somebody in my area who will be able to render an expert opinion on the actual state of the transom.  I have tapped on it, poked around in holes that a former owner drilled for a small o/b, and shaken and twisted the 220 hp Yamaha currently on the boat; all with mostly inconclusive results.  Tapping sounds solid, the small holes had moister but appear to be solid wood, and yanking on the engine in various positions with more and less leverage and mechanical advantage demonstrates a very minimal flex (one might expect to see at least something when the engine is tilted all the way up and the your shoulder is really torquing the engine's leg, but how much is too much?).  There is some very small delamination at the top right bolt hole for the engine, but close examination looks like an earlier fix  from an installation problem or former engine.  I hope to know more in a couple of weeks and then, based on that, review your various recommendations all of which are greatly appreciated!
RGB

[gw204]

IMHO, if you have even a slight amount of flex, it's probably worse that you think.  My advice would be to bite the bullet and do it now.

As for the core material to use, that's up to you, but here's my $.02....

You couldn't pay me to use SeaCast.  There's probably a reason why the manufacturers don't use it to begin with.  I couldn't tell you what that reason is though.   :)   RotDoctor and GitRot won't do you any good unless you can get the existing core to dry out.  If you manage that, you still have the problem of getting the stuff into all the wood.  Only way to do that is to bore a bunch of holes in your transom.

You're best option is to recore with either wood, or Coosa Bluewater 20 or 26 if you're concerned about rot.  Wood is cheaper, Coosa is lighter.  If you take the necessary precautions to properly protect the wood, it'll last a very, very, very long time.

Take a day and go talk to some pros.  I bet 95% of them will recommend wood or a product like Coosa.

Good luck.   :)

[LilRichard]

Actually, someone told me that Wellcraft is using a product like SeaCast for thier transoms from the factory.

Can anyone confirm / refute this?