Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Center Console Professional (CCP) Rebuilds => 200 CCP Rebuilds => Topic started by: RickWPB on March 06, 2011, 06:27:31 PM
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Hey guys what's up? I've been reading a lot of threads covering floor replacement on this site and have learned plenty of info from you guys. I recently introduced myself on the CCP owners thread.Here are a couple of pics before I started cutting
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat008.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat015.jpg)
These first couple of pics are the cut line made with a circular saw, just so other people who want to do this can get a step by step
Starting from the starboard
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat010.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat020-1.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat001.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat006.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat011.jpg)
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Rick, good work. Welcome aboard :cheers:
She's a '78....which model?
Thanks
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She's a '78....which model?
He left you a hint in the subject line. :wink:
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BTW it's a 200 CCP, I forgot to mention. I'm thinking of going with 5/8 marine plywood or 15mm Coosa. I'm also going to install bulkheads for more strength and stability, 1" Corecell. I haven't seen any pics of original trapezoid stringers with bulkheads. It can be done, right? :scratch:
When I decide which material to use for the deck, which I will listen to all suggestions, I want to get as much storage out of it as possible. Also, I plan on installing a T-Top with possibly a folding tower. Here are some more pics of the amazing things I found when the floor started to come off.
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat017-1.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat012-1.jpg)
I guess cutting holes in the stringers to check the foam won't be necessary, someone already did it, and even better, THER IS NO FOAM IN THE STRINGERS. :shock: At least in the FWD section. Can't wait to get access to the AFT section, way to go :thumleft:
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat018.jpg)
Port side stringer cracked glass and notice another hole for me to inspect non-existing foam. How considerate :drunken:
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat019.jpg)
A close up of crack in port side stringer glass(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat013.jpg)
And this is a piece of wood that has no glass. It's bare wood!
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat003.jpg)
All these amazing discoveries and more to find in 2 weeks when I'll be able to continue. My progress will be slow because I work and go to college at night so I can never do it during the week.
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Wow, you're a college student? My son sometimes is a college student. He has a double major: Guitars and Girls.
Good for you. Like your focus.
You have a great boat. What you own can be made better than new, with modern rebuild materials.
Hang loose. Review ALL of the past rebuild posts. Ninety percent are on the money.
Many new rebuild posts occurring/coming this spring.
Again, hang loose.
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Missed the CCP post. Thanks CB :thumright:
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Yeah! A 42 year old college student! :shock: It took me 23 years to figure out what that little piece of paper is worth. :study: Besides, most of the time kids follow their parents footsteps, why not take a few good steps so my kids can follow.
Anyway, back to the boat. I think one of the previous owners was on the right track by removing all the foam from the stringers, the boat must have been for sale and when he found a buyer he slapped it all back together quickly and didn't look back. It's the only reason why anyone would abandon a job that was on the right track. It looks like it was started by someone who wanted a good sturdy deck and was finished by someone who didn't give a S@%$ about boats.
I would like to keep the deck at it's current height, does anybody know of an old topic that discusses how this is done or is it just sanding down the existing piece, laying in the new floor, filling in the gap with resin mixed with microballoons, and glassing them both together after the gaps have been sanded down? That's how I would do it unless someone has a better, less time consuming suggestion. Maybe I'm missing something. I'm new to boat body work. I've worked on composite aircraft and have done s-glass, carbon fiber, and kevlar repairs, so glassing is not new to me. Working on boats, on the other hand, is.
Another question, after my deck is done I plan to primer, paint, and anti-skid. Is it better to buy Kiwi Grip or just tape the deck where I want it smooth and mix some anti-skid material with one of the paint coats. If so can it be shot with a paint gun or do I have to roll it on?
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Another question, after my deck is done I plan to primer, paint, and anti-skid. Is it better to buy Kiwi Grip or just tape the deck where I want it smooth and mix some anti-skid material with one of the paint coats. If so can it be shot with a paint gun or do I have to roll it on?
The Resource forum is your friend.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1991 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1991)
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Thanks for the link Bob. That's exactly what I want my floor to look like. That's what I like about this website, everyone knows where the other person is coming from or what they are referring to. I forgot I have spring break this week, maybe I'll have time to do a little more floor removal after work. :D
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I got a little bit of work done after work today and I found that the port side stringer doesn't look so good. Here is a pic of the FWD end of the boat. Notice how both side stringers have inspection holes in them that were never covered and once again there is no foam inside either stringer.
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat024.jpg)
I can't tell if it is delamination or the crack has continued to travel AFT
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat021.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat023.jpg)
The next 3 pics are on the outboard side of the right stringer
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat026.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat025-1.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa449/Rick_Soto/Boat%20Project/boat022.jpg)I found a bunch of stuff like a pen, fuel filter, parts of a bungee chord. I would like to find the guy who previously put the floor in and punch him in the face :eye:
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The actual stringers themselves look to be in reasonably good shape. You may be able to grind out some old glass where they bonded to the hull and just reattach them. That'd be my choice if possible...
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The actual stringers themselves look to be in reasonably good shape. You may be able to grind out some old glass where they bonded to the hull and just reattach them. That'd be my choice if possible...
I concur.
The foam is already removed and holes are in place for a new pour. :idea:
You're in high cotton my man.
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Yeah those are the pour holes for the foam, not inspection holes. My .02 is make them larger so you can retab the inside of them the the hull. This makes them far stronger than just tabbing them on the outside.
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Thanks for the info. I thought those holes were made by one of the previous owners to inspect the foam. Is it possible that AS didn't fill them up?
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No, this was by the previous guy. The "floor" guy. Good thing you found it.
Definitely want to put a grinder on that delam. and re-glass. And more work/$, but would cut the tops off the stringers and re-tab from the inside like Lew recommends, then pour closed cell 4 lb. density foam.
Hey....looking good so far.
PS....send the pen, plastic filter housing, and bungee cord to Lewis. He can put it with his rusty pliers, screwdriver, single edge razor blades etc. for the sculpture. :lol:
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Pardon the dumb question since I'm new to marine body work, but what is "tabbing"? :?
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Basically you are just putting down strips ("tabs") of fiberglass. Matt/roving/cloth etc. Check back through the rebuilds for what the guys have done with regard to the layup schedule, what goes where and when.
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My .02 is make them larger so you can retab the inside of them the the hull. This makes them far stronger than just tabbing them on the outside.
I think this is a lot of excess (IMO unnecessary) work, because grinding form the inside will be nearly impossible. Many a great rebuild has been done by glassing premade stingers to the hull at the outside joint. Look up Wilson Alaya's rebuild on classicmako.com as a reference.
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I understand that glassing from both sides would probably accomplish a stronger joint, but like Lilrichard says, adding more glass from the inside would require more work and if I can get the same results by just reglassing the outer stringer, then that would probably be the most efficient way to go. Don't get me wrong, if adding more glass to the inside is more effective, then that's what I'll do. My goal is to re-do whatever is necessary to have a strong deck and be able to go out without the worries, and embarrasment, of having soft spots all over the place like I recently have, ever since I bought this vessel. I have had problems like too much water getting into the bilge, the soft spots on the deck that are quite embarrasing when fishing with friends and some of the electrical nightmares, which are quite obvious. I even had problems with the hydraulic steering, which now that everything is open I can find if there is a leak anywhere. I have caught many fish :fish: with this boat and partied :drunken: many times at Peanut Island. Now I wanna be able to be proud of her and her reliability. Like everyone in this forum with their own vessels. :thumleft: I've read some of the rebuilds that you guys have done and I know that you guys take your boats seriously. And how some of these rebuilds were more effective due to the positive input from guys who have learned from their own rebuilds and mistakes made or lack of knowledge.
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It appears that classicmako.com is down. Tried from home and from work. :(
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My .02 is make them larger so you can retab the inside of them the the hull. This makes them far stronger than just tabbing them on the outside.
I think this is a lot of excess (IMO unnecessary) work, because grinding form the inside will be nearly impossible. Many a great rebuild has been done by glassing premade stingers to the hull at the outside joint. Look up Wilson Alaya's rebuild on classicmako.com as a reference.
Could be the case on the CCP you reference. The stringers on that model are taller, bigger, heavier, and wider. Just tore down my '73 22-2 (see pics). We didn't have a choice whether or not to tab and glass the inside of the stringers: they were about half-loose from the hull bottom. And completely separated towards the stern.
Take a good flashlight and inspect them through the holes. If they're goods and tight, and don't move, you're probably fine.
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Here's what I was referring to:
http://classicmako.com/projects/ayala/ayala11.htm (http://classicmako.com/projects/ayala/ayala11.htm)
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One of the first members here
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Thanks for the link LilRichard, I love looking at other people's projects. It gives the builder ideas on which route to take in the planning of the whole job. I'm planning on using biaxial cloth and I want to install bulkheads made of 1" Corecell. I know bulkheads will add more strength to the floor and help the stringers. If anyone has any objections to using biaxial or using Corecell please comment. Also, I've seen some rebuilds where the builder adds a half pvc pipe over the keel, doesn't that only collect the water in the forward bilge compartment and route it to the aft compartment so the pump can dispose of it? What about the other compartments? Wouldn't the embedded pvc pipe in the lowest part of the bulkheads be a better deal for removing all water from every section of the bilge? If so what would be the best diameter pvc pipe to use?
I plan on buying the Corecell, unless someone has a better possibly cheaper suggestion, next weekend from Merrits in Ft. Lauderdale, that's probably where I'll end up getting the 5/8 plywood, unless someone knows a place where the deals are better. I'm used to using West Systems epoxy resin, any better ideas? :silent:
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Also, I've seen some rebuilds where the builder adds a half pvc pipe over the keel, doesn't that only collect the water in the forward bilge compartment and route it to the aft compartment so the pump can dispose of it? What about the other compartments? Wouldn't the embedded pvc pipe in the lowest part of the bulkheads be a better deal for removing all water from every section of the bilge? If so what would be the best diameter pvc pipe to use?
Oh brother. :silent:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6632 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6632)
Unfortunately this is the edited version.
Sorta like the "R" rated version of A Clockwork Orange.
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this is a post on this site viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6721 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6721)
there's a link to http://glassclownboats.com/default.aspx (http://glassclownboats.com/default.aspx) IMHO there is some excellent information and how too's
on boat repair, rebuild.
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Rick, your material choices are spot on... you should be all set.
As to the PVC, it not only allows for drainage, but also provides some extra strength (albeit not a huge amount) to the keel (I put two layers of 1808 over mine).
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The only reason I know these things is from reading all the rebuild topics I have found on this site. I would have preferred s-glass, but it's a little too pricey. I'm definitely going with the bulkheads with 1" id and since the 1/2 PVC down the keel only requires a trip to Home Depot and a pass through the table saw, it won't be a waste of money, nor time.
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Dunno a ton about S Glass, but I do believe that with a proper rebuild your boat will be stronger than from the factory...
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S glass is what is used on composite aircraft as the base layers before applying the main cloth of carbon fiber, Kevlar, or whatever the job calls for. E glass, which is what is used on boats is unauthorized on aircraft unless it's an experimental. I'm definitely gonna use biaxial mainly because it's cheaper and because boats aren't subjected to the loads and pressure that an aircraft is. If it was cheaper I would recommend it because of it's superior strength.
Question, I've read in a couple of rebuilds that adding a T-top requires the fuel tank to be moved forward slightly, I have a 40 gal. plastic tank in mine, would I need to move it forward and if so how far?