Control Cables, DIY or not?

[Rhojo]

Hi Folks, I need some input...

At the end of the season last year I developed two problems with my twin o/b's. The starboard side is stuck in forward and the port side won't go into reverse. The starboard control feels like there is no connection between the cable and the motor, there is no friction when you try to go into reverse. The starboard control does respond when I increase and decrease speed but that's it. The port side motor won't engage fully into reverse with the controls. I can get it into reverse by hand if I take the cover off and move the shift lever.

I do most of my own wrenching on my vehicles and I performed all the regular maintenance on the o/b's last season. I had planned to take the boat into the shop and at least pay them ($85/hr.) to diagnose my problem and see if I could do it from there. The problem now is that money has become even tighter over the last year and I don't think I can swing the diagnosis from the pros.

I'm a little worried about breaking into this myself and missing something or adjusting something incorrectly. You know, a rookie mistake. I'm sure the nuances of control cables and their installation could be signiificant. Is this something I could handle or am I better off getting a professional?

My controls are two regular OMC remotes that are mounted (side by side) together, one has the control lever on the opposite side of the box than the other. It does appear that someone has worked on these in the past. One set of cables is new looking and the other is faded black a bit. Sorry, no pics of this yet. I assume this is a standard technique for twin o/b's? I can get some pics if would help.

[Aswaff400]

we've replaced the control cables on both our boats, pretty easy... took about 45 minutes on the AS and about 2 hours on the SR... and about 15-30 minutes adjusting everything

[seabob4]

Jon,
Rarely do OMC Type 479 cables have problems at the binnacle end (shifter), almost always the problem is at the motor.  Do this first.  Remove the cables from their attachment points on the engines.  Then move the shift levers through their range and observe the cable ends.    If they appear to move normally with the shift/throttle lever movement, then it would be a simple adjustment of the barrel on the engine end to line up the shift cable with the neutral position of the shift linkage and the idle position of the throttle cable.

If the cables, however, don't respond as they should to the movement of the levers, then you're going to have to pull the binnacle off and see what's going on in there.  And at this point, since you will have both ends opened up, you may as well replace the old cables.  The proper length will be stamped on the jacket at one end or the other.  Seeing as they are probably Teleflex cables, you'll see a P/N something like CC20516, the last 2 numbers indicating the length, in this case 16'...

[Rhojo]

Alright, thanks for the input guys. I think I can handle this.   :monkey:

I'll start at the motors like SB said and go from there. I'll take a few pics here and there and post my findings!

[fitz73222]

Hey Rhojo,
When your shifting the engines by hand, make sure you slowly rotate the propellers (either direction is OK) with your foot as you shift them from forward to reverse and vise versa. This ensures they are fully in gear (The prop will stop turning when the clutch dog engages as you move the shift arm to the end of its travel or it will make a clicking ratcheting sound when fully engaged). Don't keep trying to turn the prop after it is engaged or you can damage the water pump impeller because you may be trying to turn the motor counterclockwise via the driveshaft. That way you will be at the maximum travel when you adjust your shift cables. When you are adjusting your throttle cable with engine in idle postion. Keep adjusting the cable trunion until the idle throttle stop screw is touching boss on the block. Proper adjustment is when you can take a piece of notebook paper between the stop screw and the boss on the block with a slight amount of friction without tearing the paper in half. This will prevent too much preload on the cable and cause binding in the control box when you try to shift. An off the rack service manual will walk you through the process for reference. Its pretty generic to all outboards. Holler if you run into a snag. PS where shoes when your spinning the prop with your foot to prevent a nasty cut. Cant imagine being bare footed this time of year but I've seen it happen.

[Rhojo]

Hey Rhojo,
When your shifting the engines by hand, make sure you slowly rotate the propellers (either direction is OK) with your foot as you shift them from forward to reverse and vise versa. This ensures they are fully in gear (The prop will stop turning when the clutch dog engages as you move the shift arm to the end of its travel or it will make a clicking ratcheting sound when fully engaged). Don't keep trying to turn the prop after it is engaged or you can damage the water pump impeller because you may be trying to turn the motor counterclockwise via the driveshaft. That way you will be at the maximum travel when you adjust your shift cables. When you are adjusting your throttle cable with engine in idle postion. Keep adjusting the cable trunion until the idle throttle stop screw is touching boss on the block. Proper adjustment is when you can take a piece of notebook paper between the stop screw and the boss on the block with a slight amount of friction without tearing the paper in half. This will prevent too much preload on the cable and cause binding in the control box when you try to shift. An off the rack service manual will walk you through the process for reference. Its pretty generic to all outboards. Holler if you run into a snag. PS where shoes when your spinning the prop with your foot to prevent a nasty cut. Cant imagine being bare footed this time of year but I've seen it happen.

Absolutely priceless information there! Thanks so much Fitz!

[Rhojo]

I got into the control boxes over the weekend. The good news is that both sets of cables are in good shape, the bad news is that I have broken 2 pieces inside the box. Part no. 0389266 Shitf & Thottle Plate Assenbly. and 0390610 Shift Lever Assembly and both are listed as obsolete with my local Johnson dealer. I haven't talked to DougRussell.com yet although they do list the parts and it doesn't say NLA or obsolete.

Are there any other sources for internal parts of a 1988 OMC/Johnson binnacle?

[seabob4]

Rhojo,
That sucks.  Have you checked ebay or CL?  You're gonna have to replace that binnacle, or, if the broken parts aren't that complicated, have a machine shop fab new ones.  Buddy of mine did that with an old Merc side mount...

[Rhojo]

Rhojo,
That sucks.  Have you checked ebay or CL?  You're gonna have to replace that binnacle, or, if the broken parts aren't that complicated, have a machine shop fab new ones.  Buddy of mine did that with an old Merc side mount...

   

Phooey! I was afraid of that SB. I haven't checked flebay or Cl yet, I'll get on it.

I might just have a source for having the parts fabbed up. Would you think stainless or aluminium would be OK for the remakes?

Thanks SB!

[flounderpounder225]

I got into the control boxes over the weekend. The good news is that both sets of cables are in good shape, the bad news is that I have broken 2 pieces inside the box. Part no. 0389266 Shitf & Thottle Plate Assenbly. and 0390610 Shift Lever Assembly and both are listed as obsolete with my local Johnson dealer. I haven't talked to DougRussell.com yet although they do list the parts and it doesn't say NLA or obsolete.

Are there any other sources for internal parts of a 1988 OMC/Johnson binnacle?

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/2369060872.html

http://eastnc.craigslist.org/boa/2334395009.html

[Rhojo]

Thanks for the CL links FP.

I got a bit of an education on this yesterday. I learned that I don't have a binnacle, I have a side mount control box. Binnacles mount on top of a console or dash. Good stuff that I didn't know.

My local shop has found 15 throttle plates and 2 lever assemblies in the US. The price is up to $90 bucks for the plate and $140 for the lever assembly. It would cost $600 for a new box and some adapter/harness to connect to my older motors. I have one last source checking his supply, maybe, just maybe, he has them. If not, I'll order the new ones for $230 + frieght.

cross your fingers for me...

[gran398]

Jon,

Give these guys a try this morning:
http://stores.ebay.com/BOAT-RECYCLERS-O ... icies.html

Good luck sir!

[seabob4]

I'd go for this one...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Evinrude ... 2c5cb5b72e

[Rhojo]

Well, after a week long search I found the two parts I needed 15 mins. away from the house. I got a great deal on used parts in excellent condition! I got the parts back in the remote box yesterday and everything reassembled. I fired the twins up on the muffs and checked the controls carefully. Bingo, I have full control again! :bounce:

This was a crash course in remote controls for me, I was dreading it! I have to say it went better than expected. The controls feel great!

The Admiral and I are splashing today!

Thanks for all the input and help guys!

[seabob4]

Well done, Jon!  A little perseverance usually pays off...