1976 22-2 set up

[clementsea]

Believe it or not, I'm just digging into the 76' 22-2 I bought this spring... I have a mechanic who's going to hang the Johnson 175hp engine this week.  He's going to get the ignition, throttle/tilt-trim hooked up, but leave the rest to me.  Eventually, I'm hoping to get advice on setting up the guages/wiring for: fuel level, Tach, MPH.... I've looked on the site for previous posts that detail the subject (there are great ones from Seabob with pics), but I'm REAL BAD at grasping the wiring process, so when I get to that, hopefully next week, I'll be asking my share of electrical/wiring questions...

For now, I was hoping someone would have advice on two topics:

1. the installation of gunwale rod holders.  Specifically, I need to know where I should drill to attach it where the deck meets the side so it's strong, but doesn't cause potential for water penetration into the deck....  also, on the starboard side, there's the rigging channel cover.  It'd be great to be able to remove the channel cover without having to also remove the rod holder... my initial thought is to mortise in a piece (gonna use 1" rosewood that I've got "laying around")  that makes a "T" on the back/bottom of the holder that can be drilled/attached to the 3" flange that comes up from the deck (I'm assuming this is how they connect the deck to the sides)... that should work on the port side, but doesn't solve my rigging cover access on the starboard side... yes, that is expandable foam at the side/cap junction... the cap needs to be re-cored eventually, but I'm gonna leave it alone & get the rod holders in for rail/cap support for now... gotta get on the water, it's a short season up here on Cape Cod...

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2. my transom seems really solid (just from using the engine to see if it moves with pressure on it), but there are "voids" where the transom meets the cap, it's cracked & not solid (see pic).  I'm assuming that the structural strength comes from the corner of the transom & side, but a better connection between cap & transom would look better & couldn't hurt regarding strength...  

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As I said, this project is just getting started, so, bear with me please!  thanks,

Doug

[Curious]

Doug,
I have a 1978 22 Family Fisherman.  It sat in my yard for about 6 years until I finally dug into it this year.  I replaced the transom and got a basic set up with control, tach, cables, etc.  It's a work in progress but I'm psyched that it is finally water ready.  Check out my gallery and my transom replacement thread in the rebuild forum.  The transom cap was cracked and there was moisture leaking from some transducer holes near the bottom so I'm glad I did the rebuild.  It was damp in most areas and completely saturated and rotten in others.  If yours isn't cracked and flexing, you probably have some time left on it.  The other concern is with saturated stringers and deck for this era boat.  The stringers are open cell foam encased in reverse trapazoid fiberglass molds and they are famous for wicking moisture.  I think my stringers are intact for the most part.  My deck is actually pretty solid but I know it is damp because I replaced a deck hatch this spring and the scrap of deck plywood was damp when compressed.  At any rate, I think I still have a few years before a complete deck/stringer rebuild is necessary.

Good luck with your project.  I can't help you with your rod holder issues and I'm in the same boat as far as electrical knowledge.  I know just enough to get in trouble so I have learned to do what I can and then bring it to the professionals when I need to.  I'm just across the Sound from you so I get the short season thing!
Dan

[atwork]

i have the same boat same thing happend to my transom.not wet still solid we just ground it and glassed it over