Rickk's Windlass Install

[RickK]

One thing I will admit is that the docs are a little unclear on the parts you get with the windlass.  They mention a "contactor" but it's unclear if it is for the 1000 only or both.  The electrical drawings show it on the 1000 model.  Could just be generic.

Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga.  Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)

[RickK]

I found some clearer info on THT (lord forbid) but now I think I'll have to order a contactor if I want a front control too.

Oh well, SB thanks for the info (bought the lewmar from boatersland and wire from greg's) and help.
Happy Thanksgiving.

[Circle Hooked]

Rick i believe you have meet my windless  

[seabob4]

One thing I will admit is that the docs are a little unclear on the parts you get with the windlass.  They mention a "contactor" but it's unclear if it is for the 1000 only or both.  The electrical drawings show it on the 1000 model.  Could just be generic.

Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga.  Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)

Rick,
When you wake me up after watching that vid...

No, doubling up on a wire run is NOT common in marine electricals!  If the voltage drop is such that a heavier gauge cable is needed, then that's what you use.  Period.  On windlass installs where the batt is in a center console, I use 4GA.  When the batt is in the stern, I use 2GA.

A good example of overkill?  The ProSports 28 cat I just worked on?  Batt in the stern, whoever installed the windlass used 2/0!  Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues there!!!

[Double Trouble]

Rick I have the Profish 700 great little windless you will like it. I hooked up a second control last year did not use a contactor and it works fine. Here is a drawing hope it helps.

[RickK]

Hi DT,
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
 
Did you do the install?  What gauge cable did you use?
So that confirms that the 700 doesn't come with a contactor?
What kind of switch did you use up front?  Foot? How did you mount it and where?  Any pics?
Which battery did you tie into?  House or starting?  I saw somewhere that they avoided tieing into the house because of the spikes on the electronics.
It seems that it would be ok to tie into the starting battery and only use the windless after the engine is started.
For my 230, I have no clue where I'm going to run the cables through the cabin.
Appreciate it.
Here is a pic of the schematic with a contactor (pro 1000) - seems that with the contactor you run your heavy cable to the contactor and then can run light wires from the controls. Am I reading this right?

[RickK]

Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga.  Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)

Rick,
When you wake me up after watching that vid...

A real speed talker wasn't he.  

No, doubling up on a wire run is NOT common in marine electricals!  If the voltage drop is such that a heavier gauge cable is needed, then that's what you use.  Period.  On windlass installs where the batt is in a center console, I use 4GA.  When the batt is in the stern, I use 2GA.

A good example of overkill?  The ProSports 28 cat I just worked on?  Batt in the stern, whoever installed the windlass used 2/0!  Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues there!!!

Hope the 4Ga that I ordered is ok - batteries are in the stern.  :(

[Double Trouble]

Hi DT,
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
 
Did you do the install?  What gauge cable did you use?
So that confirms that the 700 doesn't come with a contactor?
What kind of switch did you use up front?  Foot? How did you mount it and where?  Any pics?
Which battery did you tie into?  House or starting?  I saw somewhere that they avoided tieing into the house because of the spikes on the electronics.
It seems that it would be ok to tie into the starting battery and only use the windless after the engine is started.
For my 230, I have no clue where I'm going to run the cables through the cabin.
Appreciate it.
Here is a pic of the schematic with a contactor (pro 1000) - seems that with the contactor you run your heavy cable to the contactor and then can run light wires from the controls. Am I reading this right?

Hi Rick
  I had a very nice thanksgiving my twin grandchildren @ 1 years old made it possible. Hope yours was good as well, getting back to the windlass yes I did the install not hard but took a little time the second switch I installed is down in the cabin near the anchor locker. Why you ask! well I fish alone most times and every once and awhile the windlass decides to have a little fun and not take the rope to chain splice (it slips) so now I just go down in the cabin pull the rope and hit the switch down there. The second switch is the same as the one on my console. As far as wire size I used #6 my run was only from the console to the anchor locker about36' round trip the power to the console switch is coming from the stern where the batteries are that run is about 30' so #6 was good there to. I did come off the starting batteries for power and only use the windlass when engines are running which is a good habit to get into sucks to pull anchor and then find your engines dont start.Sorry I dont have pictures. By the way if you need a rode try seco south best prices I have seen and if you are cramped for space in your anchor locker they have the 8 plait rope (thats what I have) takes up half the room and dont tangle and jamb in the windless. Hope this all helps if I can answer any more questions just ask. Good luck with your install.

[RickK]

Thanks for the info DT.
What kind of switch comes with 700 - the "guarded rocker"?  Is it waterproof - could it handle being out in the elements at the windlass location?
Good idea about another down in the cabin.

I'm still thinking the contactor may be the ticket to connecting multiple switches without splicing.  Maybe a terminal block would work too?

I also need to learn how to splice a chain to rope - mine are the typical shackles & turnbuckles. http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
Found another site that shows the crown and backsplice - doesn't look too bad. http://www.veoh.com/list/u/Video-Teacher

[seabob4]

DT pointed out a common problem with windlasses and smallish anchor lockers, as the rode piles up on itself, not allowing the momentum it needs to continue to fall.  PITA when you're solo and you have to keep going belowdecks to spread out the rode...

And remember, the windlass is not to be used to break the anchor free, one uses the motor(s) to accomplish that, the windlass is for retrieval.  Therefore, the motors should always be running when weighing the anchor.

Obviously, there are two ways of wiring the windlass control, first, using a "contactor", which is basically a solenoid, allows you you use a regular (non-current carrying) switch like a Carling Contura.  The second way is to use a current carrying switch, which, while considerably more pricey than a non-, it saves the cost of the solenoid...

Another windlass that some might consider is a Quick windlass, made in Italy, absolutely gorgeous polished stainless finish, they work great, have more efficient motors (allow lighter gauge wiring), and the price is right.  

Rick, I've run cables forward in the cabin 2 ways, basically.  First way, providing there is access, is to go under the v-berth, poking small holes through any b/heads as needed, then coming up through the sub-floor of the anchor locker.  The other way, on a lot of cabin boats, the hull-to-deck joint is hidden by little coaming strips, usually upholstered.  You can pull these down and hide the cables behind them.  If you have a cabin liner, there will probably be a gap between the liner and the hullside where the cabling can hide.

Good luck, I've done quite a few windlass installs, if you have any questions...

[Double Trouble]

Thanks for the info DT.
What kind of switch comes with 700 - the "guarded rocker"?  Is it waterproof - could it handle being out in the elements at the windlass location?
Good idea about another down in the cabin.

I'm still thinking the contactor may be the ticket to connecting multiple switches without splicing.  Maybe a terminal block would work too?

I also need to learn how to splice a chain to rope - mine are the typical shackles & turnbuckles. http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html

No Rick the rocker is not for outside in the elements yes mine is the toggle switch that Lewmar supplies. I think they also have the switches for the bow as an add on. Now splicing 3 strand is not hard do it a couple of times and you will master it the 8 plait on the other hand is a challange but after awhile you will get it also. I am not so sure the splices on the site you have will work with a windlass. Try this

www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5

www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf

[RickK]

DT pointed out a common problem with windlasses and smallish anchor lockers, as the rode piles up on itself, not allowing the momentum it needs to continue to fall.  PITA when you're solo and you have to keep going belowdecks to spread out the rode...

I'm sure I'll have that problem.  I initially wanted to use a drum only vertical type since you can do more with a windlass than just retrieve anchor line. The line would drop onto the deck where I could rinse and let it dry before stowing. I don't think I have the room for the installation in my locker.  Then I thought I would go with a combo but saw the price   , so I ended up with this model.  It has free-fall so that is a plus.

And remember, the windlass is not to be used to break the anchor free, one uses the motor(s) to accomplish that, the windlass is for retrieval.  Therefore, the motors should always be running when weighing the anchor.

Good point.

Obviously, there are two ways of wiring the windlass control, first, using a "contactor", which is basically a solenoid, allows you you use a regular (non-current carrying) switch like a Carling Contura.

Am I right in thinking with a solenoid I can put the solenoid behind the helm and split the heavy wire into forward and aft sections?  Then I can put as many switches as I want in parallel to the contactor? I think I need 3 switches.  It'd be nice to install water resistant "plugs" wherever I think I might need a switch and then buy the handheld and plug it in when I need it. Any ideas on this?

The second way is to use a current carrying switch, which, while considerably more pricey than a non-, it saves the cost of the solenoid...

I think this will be plan "B".

Another windlass that some might consider is a Quick windlass, made in Italy, absolutely gorgeous polished stainless finish, they work great, have more efficient motors (allow lighter gauge wiring), and the price is right.

I looked at that line but seemed you needed to put it in "manual freefall mode" - the Lewmar is in freefall when you release.  That way I can get the windlass ready to deploy and release it from the helm.  Lewmar is already ordered.

Rick, I've run cables forward in the cabin 2 ways, basically.  First way, providing there is access, is to go under the v-berth, poking small holes through any b/heads as needed, then coming up through the sub-floor of the anchor locker.  The other way, on a lot of cabin boats, the hull-to-deck joint is hidden by little coaming strips, usually upholstered.  You can pull these down and hide the cables behind them.  If you have a cabin liner, there will probably be a gap between the liner and the hullside where the cabling can hide.

 I think I have the luxurious "mouse fur" only.

Good luck, I've done quite a few windlass installs, if you have any questions...

You can bet on this.  I will probably add "and windlass install" onto the title of this thread.

[RickK]

No Rick the rocker is not for outside in the elements yes mine is the toggle switch that Lewmar supplies. I think they also have the switches for the bow as an add on.

Now splicing 3 strand is not hard do it a couple of times and you will master it the 8 plait on the other hand is a challange but after awhile you will get it also. I am not so sure the splices on the site you have will work with a windlass. Try this

http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5

http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to ... splice.pdf

I bookmarked them thanks.
The first link I posted did look like a strange splice and wasn't a favorite on some snail boating sites - didn't know how you'd dress up the ends of the splice so it wouldn't snag on things.  I think the backsplice is the way to go.

[RickK]

The Windlass came in while I was abroad - heavy lil pup.
Box says "700" like I ordered but it came in with the contactor and "guarded rocker switch" like the "1000".  I guess they changed the setup. So, I guess I have the flexibility of the contactor and hooking multiple controls to it. Still need to figure out the best way to control the device from multiple places though.
All the wire and supplies came in also from "Gregs".  Ready to rock on the install I think.
On a different note, SB where do you get your circuit breakers for your dash switches?  All my current protection are the twist lock fuse holders - what a pita, especially when they rust shut like my raw and fresh water fuses.

[seabob4]

Hate when they do that.  Rick, I know it sounds almost sacrereligious, but I've been getting my Carling push buttons from sailboatowners.com, around $5.15 per...http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php ... t+Breakers

They're Blue Seas, made by Carling.  Can't beat the price!!