"Slipaway" 1983 222 Osprey

[gran398]

FP, great observation. JD, noticed the "Tahitian Tan" straight off  

Lew you've found a honey. We're happy as a clam with your new ride!

Good advice by the boys on the caulk removal.

That cleat in the anchor box appears to be a galvanized dock cleat as installed by the PO. No problem.

Bottom line, sweet ride, good to excellent price....keep us posted.

[seabob4]

Lewis, I have seen many worse console wiring...

[seabob4]

Lewis,
Here's a pic of the trim/tilt assembly on a 225 OceanPro.  I would definitely be PB Blasting those retaining pins...

[slvrlng]

Thanks Bob! I ordered a OMC service manual last night off sleazbay for 24 bucks, it should be here in a few days. I have been blasting it with liquid wrench and PB for two days. I went by and talked to my local "boat" guy today and he said I will still need to pull the motor if I am changing just the motor or the whole thing. Something about a bolt that holds the housing on the frame that you can't get to without removal. Can anyone confirm this?

Oh and Pete its a 1994 Johnson 175 Oceanrunner.

[seabob4]

Lewis,
I scoped the install out pretty thoroughly.  While you are correct about the fwd port side bolt on the trim motor being inaccessable, it looks to me like remove the trim limit pin, remove the snap-rings on the 2 big pins, drive them out, remove old assy, install new assy in reverse order, good to go...


I may be wrong...

[bumpster]

a custom stainless anchor holder roller thingy. Is this a technical term. Talk to Flounderpounder about LEDs.

[slvrlng]

Don't worry Rob, I'll be in contact real soon!

[bumpster]

SHe cleaned up real nice. I am embarrassed to admit my wiring looked the same before I got into it with cutters

[flounderpounder225]

Lewis,
I scoped the install out pretty thoroughly.  While you are correct about the fwd port side bolt on the trim motor being inaccessable, it looks to me like remove the trim limit pin, remove the snap-rings on the 2 big pins, drive them out, remove old assy, install new assy in reverse order, good to go...


I may be wrong...

Bob,
Your not wrong, and Lew... your mech should know on the newer fast trac TTU the engine does not need to be removed.  Upper pin, remove the snap rings, drive it out, have engine supported on the tilt lock or/and a piece of wood between bracket and engine.  get the tilt ram out of the journal from the engine bracket, pull it aft, should rotate on the lower pin. then try and retract the tilt ram back into the cylinder some, this will give you some wiggle room, may have to loosen the relief screw if the motor won't turn.  Now for the fun one.  The lower pin is always the bad one.  Remove snap rings, get a large brass drift punch, (never use steel, if the pin was going to come after some convincing, if you mushroom the end with a steel drift, the game is over, refer to step below).  Use a 2 or 3 Lb hand held sledge hammer (BFH).  And begin.... some heat is ok, be careful, the cast aluminum parts will break.  the pin is corroded inside the journal of the TTU, not usually the small journal areas of the bracket, that is why it is so hard to get penetrant in there.  If all this fails refer below.  

1ea Quality Recip Saw (Saws-all)
2ea The very best bi metal SHORT blades you can find
Get in between the gap of the engine bracket and the TTU journal where the pin is, stay to the TTU side, so you don't marr up the engine bracket.  NOTE : I tried removing the remainder of the pin in the TTU after saws-all removal, using a 15 ton press, pin never moved, casting of the ttu was destroyed.  Point being, sacrifice the TTU, and get that pin cut out.  The pieces in the engine bracket journals will knock right out.  Remove your TTU/Anchor.  And install your pretty new shiny one.  Hopefully on it's way today.

Marc

[slvrlng]

Thanks Marc and Bob! I have learned so much from both of you!
I tried the credit card idea as a removal tool for the silicone, and it does work, slow as heck because you have to run it down each cut in the nonskid and then run it perpendicular to those. But it does work!

Still cleaning and figuring stuff out.
She is getting there!

View from the back of the truck.

 

Check out how clean the hull bottom is, absolutely unbelievable! It still shines like new and hardly has a mark on it.



I opened the access holes in the tank hatch and this is what it looks like on the inside. The fuel gauge doesn't work, I am thinking its probably the ground, but that is my next project.



Can you believe the silicone job? Just slap it on there and let the next guy (me) worry about it.



Anybody see anything obvious?

[flounderpounder225]

Anybody see anything obvious?[/quote]


Yeah, it's "obvious" this knucklehead was having seizures while applying calk.

[slvrlng]

Here are some more pics.





This is what the splashwell door looks when lowered. It is flush with the deck. When lowered, you can actually walk all the way back to the motor.

[seabob4]

Lewis,
Don't be surprised if you need a new sender.  After verifying continuity of the ground between the gauge and the tank, pull the ground off and touch it to the pink with the ign in the run position.  The gauge should peg to full...

BTW, what's in that starboard aft storage compartment?  Looks like the F/W separator needs a new home...

[slvrlng]

That is where the battery switches reside. Former home of the oil tank.

[seabob4]

That is where the battery switches reside. Former home of the oil tank.

There is the separators new home!  God, I hate it when they are out in the open like that!  Just looks, kinda, well, unplanned...or even like a Whaler!