1972 196 rebuild...getting close

[eyem4usf]

So, after a long wait my first ever Aquasport is getting close.  She still needs to go for paint and then have the original console installed with a livewell/leaning post.  She came with a nice T-top so of course that will be put back on.  I've got a portabracket to install the 115 Yamaha 4-stroke.  I will post more pictures as progress continues and then from the water!

Pete

The new fuel tank at bottom with additional bracket glassed in.  There is a conduit to the bilge at the top of the photo where the livewell/leaning post tubes will run



Awaiting paint, non skid and then the console



New transom with a fresh coat of gelcoat and awaiting paint



New fuel tank 25 gal


Awaiting hardware and non skid




New transom with deck cap

[RickK]

     

[slvrlng]

Looking good! Your project gives me a couple of ideas for mine.

Couple of questions, looks like you kept the control trough. How did you add the knees? Is the whole floor new?

[fitz73222]

I was also wondering about the rigging trough as well. Here is a tip that I just discovered if you are re installing the original teak rod racks... All of these older classics had problems with the rod racks loosening due to gunnel flex. My 22-2 was no exception. When I removed the racks to restore the teak i found various "engineering" revisions that were used to get the mounting screws to stay put; plastic anchors, golf tees glued into the holes and drilled for the screws, wood putty, epoxy, you name it. I came up with the idea of using rubber well nuts. Drilled the holes to 3/8 diameter, installed the well nuts and used 10/32 stainless screws and it worked perfectly. (this was for mounting the bottom feet on the rack) I had to cut the screws to 1 3/4" long to keep them from bottoming out against the outer skin inner wall. They are as tight as brand new. If something happens to the well nut in the future, just take out the screws and replace the well nut! No more dealing with wood screws into fiberglass and pulling loose!

[eyem4usf]

fitz....Thanks for the information regarding the rod holders.  I was wondering how I was going to put new ones back in there and now I have a strategy.  


The floor is not new as it was in good shape when the boat was purchased.  As for the knees, I'm not doing the glass work myself so I won't be able to give you specifics.  I think they were constructed with marine grade plywood and wrapped in glass.  They did a crazy good job with the transom, it's about 3 to 3.5 inches thick.  I'll have some more pics in the next few days showing the new paint job.

The original control trough is still there.  I'm actually glad it's being kept because it will make running the wires so much easier going forward.

[terntwo 24]

Quick question with the porta-bracket and the enclosed transom will you be able to completely tilt the motor out of the water ,the reason I'm asking is my 19'6 will be left in for the summer and I need to or want the motor out of the water, I really like the look of the enclosed transom very nice  

[slvrlng]

I think thats the whole reason behind having a Porta. With a jackplate alone, unless you get a really large setback, Your motor could still hit. I have been trying to find a used porta but not much luck in Atlanta. I think once they are on a boat they stay. A new one is a pretty good hit on the wallet!
Back to the knees question, did they attach them into the original stringers or just tab them onto the hull?
I hope one day to have mine at this same point and looking half as good!

[eyem4usf]

I think they just tabbed them into the floor but I'm not sure.  I showed up one day and they were there already.  I'll find out and post the answer.  I figured the transom would be fine without them so I'm thinking if they are just glassed into the deck then that just adds some extra strength and there really shouldn't be any load/pressure on them.

I was lucky and we found a used porta bracket on craigslist.  I agree though, I spend a lot of time scouring craigslist and have never seen another one.  I don't know for sure as it has yet to be installed but I think raising the bracket all the way up and then tilting the engine a little bit should be enough to get her out of the water.  

Hopefully the nonskid, console and ttop will be on by next weekend.  Can't wait to see and post pictures.

[seabob4]

Our USF buddy,,
Oh, BTW, GO...!

That being said, she looks beautiful!  If I may make a comment about the stringer/knee relationship.  In this case, the proper way to do it is to install the knees so they are glassed with 2 layers of 3610 to both the transom and the stringers, then the deck is laid over the stringers with notches cut out to clear the knees and bonded in place with polyester bonding putty, Arjay or equivalent.  The forces of the transom acting on the knees needs to be transferred to the stringers, not the deck.  Hopefully, that's what was done here...

[eyem4usf]

Ahh the Gator guy...the "gator nation" cult is alive and well.  I can't wait for the upcoming USF vs UF game this year!

That's sounds like a good way to install the knees.  I'm thinking that many of the transoms are installed without knees and are plenty strong.  So, with that said wouldn't the addition of knees albeit tied to the deck just add to the strength of an already capable transom?  

I'm no expert on this stuff by any means but I think it's going to work great.

[seabob4]

Ahh the Gator guy...the "gator nation" cult is alive and well.  I can't wait for the upcoming USF vs UF game this year!

That's sounds like a good way to install the knees.  I'm thinking that many of the transoms are installed without knees and are plenty strong.  So, with that said wouldn't the addition of knees albeit tied to the deck just add to the strength of an already capable transom?  

I'm no expert on this stuff by any means but I think it's going to work great.

Nor can I!  The one thing I wouldn't want to see is any outward flex of the transom pull on the cockpit sole, unless the sole is glassed in some areas aft to the stringers, then it is just a matter of "load" transfer...transom>knees>sole>stringers...

[RebelYell]

..

USF'er:

Nice Boat !!

Only one question: Why did you go with a 25 gallon tank ?

I have a 1990 Osprey 20' and it comes with ~59 gal tank. I make trips in Tampa and Crystal River and the ~55 gal or so I put in it comes in very, very handy. I could see myself getting somewhat stressed over fuel with a 25 gal tank and it would limit me to approximately 75 miles total mileage ( a guesstimate ) with my Mariner 150.

Also, I am both an alumni of Marshall and USF...so....GO HERD.....GO BULLS....and.....SCREW WVU !!!

 :joker:

[eyem4usf]

Could have went with the 50g tank but I like the idea of the 25g tank for the following reasons.  I never take trips that are longer than 25 gallons with a 115 four stoke will take me.  If I do, it won't be in the middle of the gulf so I can just refill.  When I fill up the tank I'm not adding 50 gallons of fuel weight to the boat.  Figure I'm saving about 150 extra pounds.  Also, with the ethanol in the fuel these days, I'll be circulating new fuel through the tank and not letting fuel sit in the tank for a long of a time.

Thanks for the compliments.  I should have more pics to post tonight.

[Capt. Bob]

That's a well thought out idea.

Some of us here have opted for a smaller tank than OEM for some of those same reasons.
Mine was for half the cost factor but I also had a very strong data backup on fuel consumption for my motor. I know how much fuel I've been burning on all my trips so I judged tank size based on worst case usage.
I realize that with the different hull I'll be running and different power (initially) my data will need correction. The Flow Scan will help with this.
Ethanol was a worry for me. Tallahassee is covered with it so the thought of draining the tank at the end of the season is much easier with the smaller tank and like yourself, my trips are limited these days due to cost and family. It also provided me with a very useful additional space for battery mounting or storage. 55 gals as opposed to 100gals works for me.

The thought among some here is you can always put 25 gals in a 50 gal tank but why pay for something you're not going to use especially at today's replacement costs. I ain't made of money and the $500 bucks I saved on the new tank was put to use in other areas of the boat.

Downsizing is not for everyone. It's just a matter of priorities.

She's coming along nice.
Good luck.

[seabob4]

You know, I'm beginning to like the old 29 SF more and more...I like I/Bs.

But I'd yank the gas motors and replace them with Yanmar 315s.  I'd also yank the old tanks and downsize, as 15 miles offshore in the Tampa/Sarasota area gives me plenty of reefs to fish.  Plus it would get me the belowdecks room to install a genny, diesel 5KW Westerbeke...

Can't get that 29 off my mind...