'74 19-6 Deck rebuild started

[love2fish]

I have 2 "pads" like this on either side of the keel in the bilge area of my 22-2. they are about 12" long (bow to stern) and maybe 3-4" wide. I was assuming these were mounting blocks for bilge pumps, Correct?
heres a pic:

[Mad Dog]

I'm not sure why those "pads" are there.  They are just like the ones running along the center stringer.  1/2" balsa wood core covered with polyester weave.  I doubt you have much balsa left under the glass.  Even when it was new I doubt it would have held any kind of fasteners.

I replaced them in my rebuild with 1/2" ply. I didn't think they were well placed for bilge pumps so I glued down mounting blocks closer to the centerline and the transom.

MD  

[luv2flycessna]

Sorry it has been a while been real busy with holidays and trying to get this done, but here are couple of pics of the sole down and Non Skid applied will be painting the Sole this week as long as the rain holds off . I used some stuff called Skid Tek for the non skid, rolled out some resin used a salt shaker to apply, will go over lightly with some more resin. Hopefully it look's OK.

also Got the Stiffners repaired.

going to put a another layer of 1708 and then 2 more layers mat on the Tank cover to stiffen it up a bit more. then apply the Non Skid to it

[RickK]

Looking Good  

[luv2flycessna]

Looking Good  

Thanks RickK, used kinda your method on the Non Skid, I didn't do the Gel Coat, They said it only covers 20 sq ft per quart, I didn't think that was very much. Do you think it would cover more than that? The part of the deck I am doing is approx 12'X6' (give or take an inch or two), How many quarts of Gel Coat would I need?

 I think that Skid Tek is like the Glass Bead, Hopefully when I get the paint on it it will look factory, It looks ok now but paint will show the imperfections I am sure, Will primer first see what it looks like then if it is OK Paint will follow.

Thanks for the idea on the Non Skid! :bounce:  

Ok thanks again for the Help on here this Forum is AWSOME!!!

[RickK]

20sf is 4x5 - I know I can get more out of one quart that that.  On the non-skid method I posted you use a very short nap roller and do smaller sections at a time using a light coat of gelcoat, like maybe the section in front of the console.  It's a very durable answer to non skid and looks beautiful when done with the "water runs" in strategic places (around the edges, down the middle, etc.)

[luv2flycessna]

20sf is 4x5 - I know I can get more out of one quart that that.  On the non-skid method I posted you use a very short nap roller and do smaller sections at a time using a light coat of gelcoat, like maybe the section in front of the console.  It's a very durable answer to non skid and looks beautiful when done with the "water runs" in strategic places (around the edges, down the middle, etc.)

Well I have the non skid down now, I rolled out a light coat of resin then sprinkled the non skid over that and let dry, do you think I could do light coats of Gel coat over that or would it fill in too much? I have never used Gel coat before so I am unsure how thick it is when applied. Is it the consistency of paint or a little thicker just like resin?

Also when you buy Gel coat and want it colored do you add the pigment your self or do they mix it for you?

Again RickK thanks for you help..

[RickK]

I've never done it the way you're saying with the resin instead of the gelcoat.  I don't see why it wouldn't work though - just a different approach.
Gelcoat is like a thick paint and depending on how thick you put the glass bead down would decide how much you want to roll on over the glass bead.  Too much gelcoat and you'll defeat the non-skid (been there done that).  I usually "shake" the glass bead on through a screen over the cup I'm using and totally cover all the gel coat evenly - in your case the resin.  If you screw up you can use a disk sander and take the floor back down to just above the cloth and try again - been there done that too - doesn't take long to sand down witht he right tool (grinder with sandpaper wheel).  
If you want to try the gelcoat approach over what you have, just roll on a very light coat with a short nap roller.  Sounds like you didn't plan out any "water runs" and tape them down prior to the resin - oh well - you'll still end up with a non-skid floor.
You can get tinting to add to your gelcoat from the supplier - not sure if they will tint it for you.  A little goes a long way - I still have 99% of the teeny bottle I bought from them to tint my console light blue.
Don't be afraid of this - remember you can always sand it off with a disk sander if you don't like it.

[luv2flycessna]

 
If you want to try the gelcoat approach over what you have, just roll on a very light coat with a short nap roller.  Sounds like you didn't plan out any "water runs" and tape them down prior to the resin - oh well - you'll still end up with a non-skid floor.
.

oh yeah I  did think of the water runs they are there if you look close you will see where I had the tape down for them,

Yeah I guess I could add more non skid to the gel coat while I am applying it.

Did you use the gel coat without wax or with?
My wife picked up the gel coat for me today and got me waxed but if I am correct I want to use non waxed until the last coat correct? or does it not matter or another way of doing it?
Thanks

[RickK]

oh yeah I  did think of the water runs they are there if you look close you will see where I had the tape down for them,

Yeah I guess I could add more non skid to the gel coat while I am applying it.

Did you use the gel coat without wax or with?
My wife picked up the gel coat for me today and got me waxed but if I am correct I want to use non waxed until the last coat correct? or does it not matter or another way of doing it?
Thanks

oh yeah, I see them. The way the process should have gone was to roll or spray the water run areas with gelcoat first.  I think the manuf even sand or buff to get those water runs nice and smooth. Then you put the 2 layers of tape down where you want the final water runs to be and start the gelcoat/glass bead process.  Using a very short-nap roller cover, I roll over the area including the tape with gelcoat (I would use non-waxed), then sprinkle the glassbead covering the entire area, let the gelcoat harden, sweep up the excess glass bead and put back in the cup and then remove one layer of tape.  Now roll a light coat of gelcoat over the area again, including the tape and let harden - this is the critical coat - too thick and you lose the glass bead.  After hardening, pull the last layer of tape and whallah - perfection.  If you use waxed gelcoat you need to wipe the wax off the first and second coats with acetone or something (I forget) between coats.  Waxed is ok for the last coat though.
Now, how can you engineer what you have already done to work out like this?

[luv2flycessna]

oh yeah, I see them. The way the process should have gone was to roll or spray the water run areas with gelcoat first.  I think the manuf even sand or buff to get those water runs nice and smooth. Then you put the 2 layers of tape down where you want the final water runs to be and start the gelcoat/glass bead process.  Using a very short-nap roller cover, I roll over the area including the tape with gelcoat (I would use non-waxed), then sprinkle the glassbead covering the entire area, let the gelcoat harden, sweep up the excess glass bead and put back in the cup and then remove one layer of tape.  Now roll a light coat of gelcoat over the area again, including the tape and let harden - this is the critical coat - too thick and you lose the glass bead.  After hardening, pull the last layer of tape and whallah - perfection.  If you use waxed gelcoat you need to wipe the wax off the first and second coats with acetone or something (I forget) between coats.  Waxed is ok for the last coat though.
Now, how can you engineer what you have already done to work out like this?

Well sanded it all down tonight to start over doing it the proper way with Gel Coat, Didnt think it would work very well going over the top of the way I did it. Will begin the proces again tomorrow, Rather have it done right than have to redo it in a few months to year when it starts peeling up.

Should the tape be removed before the gel coat completely hardens so that it doesnt get stuck down?
On the water run area did you use the waxed on the coat before the taping?
I picked up some non waxed also for might firt few coats.

Also how many coats of each color should be done?
Is two enough one coat then sprinkle the glass bead the a final coat over that or should there be a couple coats then a last coat over the bead?

Sorry for all the questions.
Thanx again

[RickK]

Well sanded it all down tonight to start over doing it the proper way with Gel Coat, Didnt think it would work very well going over the top of the way I did it. Will begin the proces again tomorrow, Rather have it done right than have to redo it in a few months to year when it starts peeling up.

Good idea - you'll be glad you did it this way.  Make sure you take pics of each step - I wish I had.  Re-read the post I made a couple times and you'll be ready.

Should the tape be removed before the gel coat completely hardens so that it doesnt get stuck down?

Let it start to harden so the bead doesn't move.

On the water run area did you use the waxed on the coat before the taping?

I think I would use non-waxed because the water run areas initially are wider then they'll end up being.

I picked up some non waxed also for might firt few coats.
Also how many coats of each color should be done?
Is two enough one coat then sprinkle the glass bead the a final coat over that or should there be a couple coats then a last coat over the bead?

One coat for the water runs - sanded, buffed, nice and smooth before proceeding.  Remember you'll be seeing those as the highlight of the floor.
One coat to embed the bead.  
One final light coat to cover the bead.  Remember not too heavy or the bead will be gone.  Should be like a sand-paper when done.

Can't wait to see the outcome.  Remember to do smaller sections - like maybe do your floor in thirds or so.

[flkeysaqua]

Hello I also have a 19-6 but it is a 73 sure not alot of differences to them, I have a few question if you wouldn't mind. First are the scoops on the bow that run into the deck just vents and can i get rid of them? Second I have a soft tank lid but the rest of the deck is solid can I remove any rot from the underside of it and reglass it? Last but not least there are two screw on the transom that seems to be there for no aparent reason does anyone know their purpose? Thanke for your time. P.S. your project looks great can't wait to see the end result.

[MarshMarlowe196]

Hello I also have a 19-6 but it is a 73 sure not alot of differences to them, I have a few question if you wouldn't mind. First are the scoops on the bow that run into the deck just vents and can i get rid of them? Second I have a soft tank lid but the rest of the deck is solid can I remove any rot from the underside of it and reglass it? Last but not least there are two screw on the transom that seems to be there for no aparent reason does anyone know their purpose? Thanke for your time. P.S. your project looks great can't wait to see the end result.

Also have a 73 19-6-

This might be a little off topic from the OP, but my understanding when it comes to the bow scoop is that its original purpose was to ventilate the gas tank.  The hose runs from the bow, into the tank compartment, and exits through the vent on the port-stern.  Boatbuiliders in the 70's thought this was necessary to ventilate the tank, but it's really not, all you really need is the little vent hose that runs from the tank, though a big nice ventilation system for the gas tank doesn't seem like it would hurt anything.  Why do you want to remove the scoop, out of curiousity...?

I also have a soft tank plate (lid), with the rest of the floor being solid.  Should be nothing wrong with removing the rot and reglassing, I was actually planning on doing that myself, although the added cushioning for my legs from pounding waves will be missed :)

I, oddly enough, also had the two screws on the transom..., they were removed when I rebuilt and raised the transom.  I believe those were for the old-style swim ladders that slid into place over the screws, but I could be wrong...  Seems that was their purpose.

[flkeysaqua]

Yeah the extra cushion is cool  :afro:  but I'm 6'3" 240 lbs so I feel like im going for a swin in the tank sooner or later And are you referring to the vent that is on the side of the boat allready? I think its stock I could be wrong about where the bow rail starts up near the gunwale And its not that I need to do away with them they do keep the boat looking classic but im missing one of the scoops themself and the stock plastic ones dont look that appealing I think I saw stainless ones on a boat in here somewhere I would consider putting a set of those on it if I knew where to find them. Also our boats came stock with the two bolts on the transom if you look at the photo gallery you can see them on everyone of the 19-6 in there I thought they might of been for a ski pole attachment but I also could be wrong aswell ps the ads in the photo gallery are hilarious dudes in long white pants and a  collared shirts going out fishing with their wives in sunday dresses good stuff Oh also are you the gentleman that has the pics on here of raising the transome?