1973 222 Project started

[Shine]

how do you clean the release film off the inside of the new inside skin?

[slippery73]

Since there was only two layers of glass on it now its flexible enough to get my hand a good way down into it and just peel it off, the pva peels very easily and doesn't tear much, I also used 3 or 4 coats of the pva so it would peel off easier. If it wasn't accessible I believe the pva dissolves in alcohol so it would have also been removed with that.

[JimCt]

PVA dissolves in plain old water.

[Shine]

I use PVA often, residue remains unless you use hot water.  

What is the pour transom made of?

Maybe I missed understand.  Just so I have it right; you laid up glass on the mold that was attached to outside skin using spacer blocks, then you pulled the mold out.  The you reach in and pull off the PVA?

If I were you, I would do a test to see how well the pour transom bonds to that new inside skin.

Reason being is that the inside skin (even with the PVA completely removed) is going to be very slick.  Polyesters has a poor secondary bond as it is.  I worry about a delamination.  Im sort of assuming your pour transom is one of the polyester based products.

The test would be easy and make you feel a lot better (maybe worse) about the transom. :)

Take one of you melamine molds/ cover it with PVA, pull a small part off it (just a small square of glass), then remove the PVA in the same manner as you have your inside skin.  Mix up some of the mix and pour it on (you will prob. have to make a little damn to keep in shape).  When its cured, see how easy it pops off.

Im not saying your process will not work, I can just see how it may not.

[slippery73]

Heres another update: I finally got around to pouring the transom and it is solid as a rock, It is unbelievable how strong it feels and it doesn't even have the knees extending back to the stringers yet. May have been a bit more expensive materials wise for the nidacore transom material but I wont ever, ever, ever have to worry about the strength of the transom. I did end up taking a long board and made kind of a padded sanding block on the end of it and used some 40 grit sand paper to sand the inner skin of the damn since it was very smooth from the melamine form, this should give it some more tooth and prevent it from delaminating. I dont ever see how it could ever delaminate as it would never flex enough to break any bonds, cant absorb water like wood or foam, and will never rot. For something to break its bond with a surface there has to be adequate tension or torsion to make the bond break, unlike foam this material is solid, it has 3-4 times the compressive strength of a plywood transom and 10 times that of foam. I would highly recommend this product to anyone redoing their transom. I would probably say labor wise there is a lot less involved going this route as well, there are a few things I would have done differently however so If anyone plans on going this route let me know and i can give some pointers.

Also started tear out on the floor, I was hoping to cut through the first layer of glass and peel it back as to just expose the rotten core and leave the bottom layer of glass. Then bond my nidacore panels to that and reglass the deck. This was me being optimistic. Heres a more realistic view.

[RickK]

Progress is a good thing 8)

[slippery73]

Here's one from a few weeks ago with the floor completely out. Need to add my transom knees, bulkheads, and some kind of blocking for tower. Debating on raising the floor about 2."  I think it would be fairly easy at this point and should help with drainage. Game plan got kind of changed as I started thinking about things, I had originally figured on finishing out interior then regelcoating. However, I just realized since im decking everything over I wont be able to install my forward thu hulls so I need to gel coat the outside and do all my plumbing then deck it over as im also burying my fuel tank.

[billh1963]

Looks like you're past the "point of no return" now!   :)

This is a great time to wire, plumb, and do everything right that distinguishes a good boat from a great boat!

[slippery73]

Here are some updated pics. Transom is finally poured and inner liner trimmed off, rounded off the edge some and will add some glass to top edge to seal it in well. Need to build my transom knees sometime but need to get some composite board first. Second pic shows the I/O hole im starting to fair in. Getting closer just lots of filling, sanding, hold up straight edge, repeat. Dont want to fill to much and then have to sand it smooth, trying to add little by little until smooth.

[slippery73]

Finally got some progress made on the boat. Got the nida core deck pieces all cut and laid out. Now they will have to be glass into the three sections that will make up the sole. I will be glassing the smaller pieces together into 3 sections port, center, and starboard so each of those panels will run the entire length of the boat. Then they will get taped at the seams and at the gunnels and overlayed with layers of glass over the entire floor.

[RickK]

[slippery73]

Had to move the boat back on the trailer some to reglass the transom so..... I couldnt resist. I had to drop her in the water.........

[Shine]

the chines are not even wet - I bet it was tippy  

[slippery73]

It was actually really stable, I was very surprised. I could walk the gunnels no problem and the boat didn't list very badly at all. I think its going to be very well distibuted with the fuel tank further forward than stock and batteries under console. It didn't draft much more with both me and my brother in the very back either. Seems like weight is very well distributed on these boats, great hull design.

[Shine]

If you take enough weight out of a hard chined boat so that the chines are not submerged - it will roll until the chines are immersed.  Then the chines begin to offer added stability

The better news is that it will be even more stable when you get some weight in it.   :)