Just purchased 1975 19-6.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Today's mystery:  why would I have a list to starboard?  I haven't stuck a level on the deck or console while I'm in the water, but its definitely cock-eyed somewhere on the order of moving my wife (110lbs) to the port side of the console means the boat is sitting near level, she stands over the keel with me, leans to starboard, she stands to starboard, leans more.

Any ideas?  Only thing I could see that's at all asymmetrical would be the rigging chase, and it certainly doesn't have 110lbs worth of stuff in it...

[GoneFission]

Battery location?  Also, wet foam under the deck...

[Blue Agave]

The foam in the starboard stringer is water logged.

[gran398]

Agree with John and Nando. Wet foam under deck. Specifically, starboard side stringer.

The chase tube is located outboard of that stringer. Small leak in the chase tube as mentioned in another thread....rainwater from the deck  intrudes and holds on the high side of the bilge, between the outer stringer and hull side. Water absorbs upwards through the stringer foam over the years given a small entry in the stringer tabbing. The bilge by design was closed. No inspection plates, no pumps. Transom garboard drain only, on dry land.

If the stringer is fully saturated....easily 100 pounds of water weight.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Definatly wet foam on the starboard side would cause the boat to list to that side the foam on mine on the starboard side was 2x as wet as the port side, little leaks in the channel, that was the main reason I did away with the channel, put in rigging tubes below the deck   if you have to pull your floor you will be amazed at how wet the foam will be..

[seabob4]

if you have to pull your floor you will be amazed at how wet the foam will be..

Don't say that Garry...  

Ryan, seeming as the consensus opinion here is on the water logged foam, you can add ballast to port to offset the weight imbalance.  Seeing as you are in construction, you most likely have access to a metals supplier, lead is an excellent material to use for ballast (we used it at Proline).  Lots of weight in a small package...

[SaltH2OHokie]

I'm just disappointed that the consensus wasn't "there's a gold ingot, somewhere on the starboard side of your boat, weighing approximately 110lbs".

That, or Jimmy Hoffa disappeared in 75...perhaps he "took a vacation" to Hialeah...and ended up on the starboard side of my bilge  

As for lead: just came off of an OR renovation where we demo'd more lead-lined walls than you could shake a stick at.  I took a few little slivers to smelt for sinkers and bullets, but didn't bother with much (wife has sorta put the clamps on bringing home wayward construction supplies...something about "you'll never use all of this junk in 100 years..."   )

[SaltH2OHokie]

Note the nice carpet on top of the console.  Wife wasn't a fan.



So I pulled it off...leaving plenty of hardened glue:



Hit the glue with a flap disc:




Now what do I do to get that top surface back right?

[seabob4]

Better looking carpet...    

[SaltH2OHokie]

Better looking carpet...    

That's almost verbatim what my buddy suggested. Bunch of wise guys darn it... plus I'd be crazy not to go hardwood if I'm sticking with flooring products  

[seabob4]

Ryan, if you don't want to gelcoat it, get some Rustoleum topside paint at Loews.  Looks and works good...

[SaltH2OHokie]

Ryan, if you don't want to gelcoat it, get some Rustoleum topside paint at Loews.  Looks and works good...

I guess I didn't specify enough...its still sort of rough/wavy (might have gotten a little crazy with the 60grit flap disc...it was 28deg and I was cold).  Can I smooth it with some filler of some sort and then paint it?  What would the "proper" course of action be in this case?  I was going to fill the various holes with Marine Tex or Six10 (whichever I can find in the garage first) and then I wasn't sure what the best way to get it smooth would be.

Seriously though, my buddy's first response was "find some better looking carpet".

[gran398]

if you have to pull your floor you will be amazed at how wet the foam will be..

Don't say that Garry...  

Ryan, seeming as the consensus opinion here is on the water logged foam, you can add ballast to port to offset the weight imbalance.  Seeing as you are in construction, you most likely have access to a metals supplier, lead is an excellent material to use for ballast (we used it at Proline).  Lots of weight in a small package...

SB, regarding the lead....what would be the shape, and in an existing boat, how and where would you place it?

[seabob4]

Scotty, we used to buy lead, basically, ingots from Southeast Metals.  4 X 2 (trapezoidal shaped) on the ends, about 10" long...sumbitches were heavy!!  Most boats all the way outboard aft, in between the outboard stringer and the hullside, then foamed over to keep them safe and sound.

On an existing boat (maybe yours?), obviously a bit more difficult.  Outboard, in perhaps the port or starboard box, then glass over it with 3 layers of 3610 (or whatever it is the hell they call it) to hold it in place.  I'd use a primary bond first, like maybe Bondo-glass or Duraglass to bed the lead in, then do the glassing.

[Aquasport Commodore]

 That's almost verbatim what my buddy suggested. Bunch of wise guys darn it... plus I'd be crazy not to go hardwood if I'm sticking with flooring products  

Why not use teak or Starboard, you already have a black panal on the lower portion, just get a 1/4 inch flat piece then mount cupholders, cell holders, compass, etc on top of the flat stock. Starboard wont fade, rot, and is just like wood so you have the skills to work with it. It would be much easier than doing all the filling, panting, etc.