Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: florida196 on March 05, 2013, 08:46:32 AM
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Installed my new transom in the boat saturday by mixing up a bunch of cabosil and resin. Probably using way to much. Let it set for two days. Mounted it using 2x4 along the outside skin bolted threw new core to tighten everything down to squeeze any air out and create tight bond. My mistake was not using any release agent on bolts or 2x4. As you can probably guess stuck pretty good. Any advice on getting these out or did I ruin it.
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You're alright.
Get the bolts out first. One you break the seal, they should pop right out.
Spend some time on the two by's. A wrecking bar should work, just go easy.
Whatever's left, use a grinder.
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A big pry bar will break the 2x4s loose with some persuasion. You may have to grind a little remaining wood, but they will pop loose. You likely only have a bond near the bolt holes rather than the entire length of the board, so it should be quick work. Similarly, the bolts will pop if you whack them a few times with a 6 lb hammer. We commonly putty 2x6s to the shop floor with resin and cabosil to keep hulls braced and in place. When done, we pry them up with a large pry bar and they come up fairly easily.
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Installed my new transom in the boat saturday by mixing up a bunch of cabosil and resin. Probably using way to much. Let it set for two days. Mounted it using 2x4 along the outside skin bolted threw new core to tighten everything down to squeeze any air out and create tight bond. My mistake was not using any release agent on bolts or 2x4. As you can probably guess stuck pretty good. Any advice on getting these out or did I ruin it.
Pictures are worth a thousand words, show those of us that haven't done a transom what your up against.
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Here is the pics I have not the best. What I did was cut 4 2 x 4 2 at 20 inch to run the sides one at 54 inches to cover the middle and another at 22 inches for the bottom. Used 3/8 all thread with two different size flat washers on each side. Drilled my holes threw the existing skin and new transom core one size larger at 7/16. Then used about a gallon and a half can sized of cabosil mixed with over a gallon of resin plus hardner creating a thicker then peanut butter paste. Covered both new core and existing skin with putty not sparingly at all, then installed all hardware tightening as much as I could. Threw out the next 4 hrs, I went out every hour and was able to tighten a little more forcing what air i could out. This is my first time ever working with fiberglass on this project. So please correct me if any steps were wrong other than (no release agent) already learned that one the hard way
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg493/florida196/44944786-db3c-4114-a33c-6d42d916fd01.jpg)
(http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg493/florida196/c5dd62e6-0cd0-4c2c-99db-25d89dfdbd23.jpg)
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You didn't use any cloth material between the wood core and the existing hull and the core is one piece or two?
It appears you'll get the framing and bolts off/out with a little work. 3 beer job.
OK so I like to drink. :mrgreen:
Good luck.
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Thanks for the pics. This is no biggee :thumright:
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Yes the sheets are two pieces of 3/4 marine ply bothe inside faces resin coated then one layer of 1708 between sheets then resin Cabosil between and set over night then back side to skin has one layer of 1708 on it
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Like group w bench said it's probably stuck good at the bolt holes...take the nuts off and give the bolts a decent wack with a good size hammer, if it doesn't come loose try putting a socket on the bolt head and see if you can get it to turn than hit it again...once the bolts are out try using a stiff putty knife and drive it between the 2x4's and the outer skin at the bolt holes and this should break it loose after you have pried on it at every hole...hope this helps.. this is the way I got two pieces on my floor stuck together.. :thumright:
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Gary hit the "bolt" on the head, and taking it a step further...
Rather than bang on them....to start, twist the bolts with a socket wrench. The glue bond will break a helluva lot easier in a lateral direction....basically points of least resistance. And you won't rip material out along with the bolts.
Post up some pics when you decide to attack :wink:
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Well nothing seems to be working tried sledge impact slide hammer can't even get one to look like it wants to move. Out of ideas
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Try putting some heat the bolts, it will soften the resin. Once you can twist them, knock 'em out. I know this works with epoxy, I am thinking it will work with poly too.
Just be careful not to set anything on fire! :|
Good luck!
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Looks like heat is the only option left. Just wounder if heating the bolt which will heat the epoxy resin slightly will compromise the structural integrity of the transom to skin bond or would it be Safe to go and tab the transom to inner hull before trying to remove the bolts anymore
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I will say no, but... Don't heat them to the point they are glowing or anything :!: I would recommend to gradually raising the temp to see how hot you will need to get them.
Also, are you using polyester resin? I'm just curious to see if it works on poly also, like I said, I have never tried it with poly before.
Please let us know how it goes.
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It's epoxy resin and will post updates thanks
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Heat will do fine, when I pull the wires from stich and glue built skiffs, a propane torch does the trick, go easy and let the heat travel in the bolt then go with Scotty's suggestion and twist out with a socket. If you heat and twist at the same time the bond will let go before you damage things. You will have to twist all the way out unless you get lucky. No big deal, you've custom formed threads. :cheers:
When all is done if you have ANY worries, over drill and fill with a cabosil, glass strand and epoxy mix.
A fun time is ahead!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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dburr, Does it work with poly too? I am curious now...been thinking about it all day. :oops: :roll:
Stitch and glue with wire is the same reason I know about it. I believe I read it in Sam Devlin's book originally.
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Sounds like the heat should work. Me, I graduated from the Get A Bigger Hammer School of Mechanical Engineering. I'd have had the bolts or the transom on the garage floor :)
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dburr, Does it work with poly too? I am curious now...been thinking about it all day. :oops: :roll:
Stitch and glue with wire is the same reason I know about it. I believe I read it in Sam Devlin's book originally.
Carl it works just fine... There are two parts really, 1. getting the heat right without burning the material that your bonding (plywood etc.) or taking so long to heat that nothing really productive happens. Nothing but trial and error there.. 2. The twisting of the item being removed. For particularly stubborn fasteners a nice whack can help too. The shock of the hit is gold.
As far as using a BFH by itself? I've tried that (proud owner of a real 16 lb sledge) with many different materials and after braking some really nice tools :shock: :oops: , have determined that in the correct circumstance, for stubborn, sticky "I'm gonna let go over the carcus of your favorite wench" fasteners, you cannot beat a good old "gas wrench". Acetylene is my fave, Mapp at #2, (after a course of PB and other secrets in a well ventilated area yada,yada..) Then go at it with the old Craftsman..:mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Snap On ain't in this boys budget... :oops:
Devlin's got some nice designs for sure. Also check out Dynamite (Harold) Payson's Quick and Dirty Boat Designs. He is just about the king for simplicity with poly, plywood and glass.. And he's a really nice old Maine dude :thumright:
Keep the fire extinguisher handy :mrgreen: :salut:
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Want to think everyone for there assistant and input the heat to the all thread worked great took all of about 20 minutes to get all the bolts out. Now no excuses to start grinding and moving forward. Thanks again