1970 191 Gull Restoration

[CamRonMon]

While you have it open you could cut a hole in your core where the drain is going to go, (don't go through the outer skin) and form an oversized chopped glass and resin plug that would later be drilled out for the drain tube.  That would ensure that no water would get in that way.  You can also use the same trick for the engine mounts and 'ducer mount...

That is a great suggestion.

 

I agree, that is a really good idea!   I think I will do that.

[CamRonMon]

OK so after a summer that was hot and super rainy, I am back at it.

So after getting the transom finished I figure I would practice some fairing on the lumpy mess that was the outside fiberglass.   I think I have a pretty good feel for how I will be doing the rest of the fairing work now.



Here are my Stringers.





I used exterior structural LVL beams as the stringer material.   They are incredibly strong, the resin is hydrophobic, and they were actually not that expensive.   They are just tabbed in right now.   I will be adding a couple of layers of glass over them completely, and then add a couple of cross pieces for the gas tank and outer support.

[love2fish]

before you get too far in glassing those LVL's in,,, you might want to reconsider their weight. I know they are super strong,, but those things probably weight a couple hundred pounds each. some 2" foam wrapped in some biax cloth might be a better option.

[Callyb]

before you get too far in glassing those LVL's in,,, you might want to reconsider their weight. I know they are super strong,, but those things probably weight a couple hundred pounds each. some 2" foam wrapped in some biax cloth might be a better option.

Not to mention that they are wolmanized... You are going to deal with delamination as soon as the hull starts flexing. Pressure treated wood just doesn't allow for a good bond, not to mention the allowable voids in exterior plywood are way more than marine ply. If you would like to proceed with ply, buy a few sheets of 3/4 marine fir and make stringers from that. A four stringer system of single width marine ply will be better off in the long run. Just (please) make sure you thoroughly coat the wood with resin and completely glass (if you use fir) them with a heavy (12oz or heavier) glass. Fir will check over time if you skip the glass, which will lead to water intrusion and rotting.

Just trying to help. If you look ask/look around you find all of the evidence you can muster to back this up. I'm sure it is a bummer, but some things just have to be done a certain way.

I'll gladly post some more info if you want me too, just let me know. Also, this is a great group we have on this forum, we will give you all of the support you want.

[Capt. Bob]

CRM,
You probably are already familiar with the product but for interested rebuilder here's a little background on the LVL product itself.

http://www.woodsolutions.com.au/Wood-Pr ... Lumber-LVL

Lams in boat building are not new by any means but still, the chemical treatment of the wood can have an adverse effect on an aluminum fuel tank should it not be completely sealed. Then again, you could go poly.

Lots to think about but again, you may have this all worked out.

Good luck.

[CamRonMon]

Thanks for your concern guys but the LVL isn't actually pressure treated so bonding shouldn't be an issue, and those two beams together only weigh 90lbs.   I know that's still a little heavy, but I figure that these will be structurally sound for a long time.   You are correct that is is technically not as void free as marine grade, but it will be encased in fiberglass and the strength of these beams is beyond what any plywood would be.

I also do have a poly tank that will be nestled directly between those beams.

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks for your concern guys but the LVL isn't actually pressure treated so bonding shouldn't be an issue, and those two beams together only weigh 90lbs.   I know that's still a little heavy, but I figure that these will be structurally sound for a long time.   You are correct that is is technically not as void free as marine grade, but it will be encased in fiberglass and the strength of these beams is beyond what any plywood would be.

I also do have a poly tank that will be nestled directly between those beams.

As I was sayin'

Lots to think about but again, you may have this all worked out.

[Callyb]

I am very glad to hear that they aren't pressure treated. Just out of curiosity, what is your planned lamination schedule for them?

[dbiscayne]

One more concern, and I could be way off base here I'm no expert so with that said...
Those stringers look awfully close together, which leaves you with a really wide unsupported area between the stringers and outside of hull.  What I'm sayin is all that hull width outboard of the stringer is going to flex, just a little, but over & over & over, almost certain you'll end up with stress cracks in the hull along those stringers.  Worse case it'll split the hull along the stringer, and I have seen that happen, two separate boats with no mods just a slightly faulted design & the boats got run pretty hard.  If you're still going to add more support then never mind just wanted to point this out before you got too far along.

And, theres plenty of theory out there describing the effects of placing a stiff/wood stringer directly against the boat hull resulting in a nice long tear along the hard line of the stringer.  Have heard recommendations of setting toothpicks under the wood stringers to create a gap between stringer & hull, then glass the stringers to the hull with a nice radius.  Not my recommendation, just what I've heard.  The factory Aquasport stringer system doesn't have this issue.

You've got a really cool boat there, I've actually got a '71 Gull, 19-1 just like yours and I've only seen one or two others.  The shelf in my console had 'Gull' written on the bottom of it in big hand written letters, under the glass, still readible after 40+ years.  Love the way the console is up front, great calm water boat with tons of room.  Good luck.

[wingtime]

I have to agree that you will need some smaller sub stringers or something outboard of those monster main stringers.  Not only will that help with the hull but it will give support for the deck as well.

[CamRonMon]

Yea I agree with you, they are so close because of the size of the gas tank.   I will definitely be foaming those two chambers with the 4lb. material.   I had also thought about adding a couple of pieces at a 90 degree angle to the existing stringers.

[CamRonMon]

You've got a really cool boat there, I've actually got a '71 Gull, 19-1 just like yours and I've only seen one or two others.  The shelf in my console had 'Gull' written on the bottom of it in big hand written letters, under the glass, still readible after 40+ years.  Love the way the console is up front, great calm water boat with tons of room.  Good luck.

Is there any way you could post a picture?   It is almost impossible to find any decent pictures showing this model boat.   I would be really happy to see someone else's Gull!

[dbiscayne]

I just put some pics in my album, go to photo gallery, member galleries, dbiscayne.

Theres a few in there of the original layout.

[gran398]

Neat gallery dbiscayne

[CamRonMon]

Thanks so much!   Its a nice looking boat!