Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: fishybish on May 19, 2018, 09:54:33 PM
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Well, the time has come...Finally, I've found the hull for my "Tampa Bay inspired" rebuild.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_192912.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17041&title=20180519-192912&cat=500)\
Plan on keeping this rig for the long run. Fittingly, the wife has already dubbed her "the last one." Transom wood is pretty rough from what I've inspected and has some botched glass work. Sole isn't too terrible minus a couple soft spots and prior repairs. Tank looks to be replaced but regardless I'm cutting out to at least the stringers at this point (until further inspection). The original cap will be repaired and reused after removing the windlass and bow rail.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193653.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17047&title=20180519-193653&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193449.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17046&title=20180519-193449&cat=500)
Some of the more major initial plans I have for this boat are fairly run of the mill:
1) Closing and crowning the transom with forward bulkhead.
2) Replacing sole and adding deck hatches with drains.
3) Replacing casting deck and modify storage.
4) Adding center console and leaning post livewell.
5) No top/tower, for the time being...(clearance issues)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193221.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17045&title=20180519-193221&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193002.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17042&title=20180519-193002&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193039.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17043&title=20180519-193039&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180519_193134.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17044&title=20180519-193134&cat=500)
I don't really have much experience working with glass and gel coat aside from very minor repair. I've rewired and rigged multiple boats in the past, so that aspect of the rebuild is not intimidating me. Recently, I've been spending countless hours researching rebuilds and focusing on the glass/gel work side on these forums and many others alike trying to gather all the knowledge I can for this daunting project (along with picking my coworkers brain who has rebuilt a few 222's). Unfortunately, I do see quite of few of these that never get completed and do not want to get in over my head. So, any form of direction and pointers will be greatly appreciated! I will be attempting this project without a shop and with a decent selection of tools at my disposal. Would like to hear some input from those who have tackled this by themselves and also who've hired the glass and gel work out.
Thanks in advance!
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Sweet project. Other than the transom it looks pretty clean. When you cut out the aft sole to access the transom, you’ll be able to assess the stringers.
As far as you concerns about tackling a daunting project, I know what you mean. I’m at the two year mark on a rebuild that I thought would take a year. I’m getting close though, so it can be done. It will take more time and money than you think, but you’ll have exactly the boat you want.
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Welcome aboard!
She doesn't look too bad. I also though that I would finish my rebuild in a year but life and work took over and 4 years later I was at 95 %. If you have basic carpentry skills you can tackle it.
There are a few decisions that you need to make though. On the transom, it appears you are thinking a bracket or porta lift/jackplate. With that in mind do you want to leave the outer skin and build it up and fill the holes from mounted stuff or do you want to brace the hull to retain shape and then cut the majority of the transom out, leaving a couple inches around the edge and then clamp/screw a piece of melamine plywood to the boat and use that as the flat portion to start laminating an entirely new fiberglass transom from the inside - you'll start with a flat virgin transom that way. There are plenty of examples of both ways here on the site.
Also, you mention no tower now, but you should design in the backers for the console and also the tower that eventually may get installed. Make good drawings so later on you'll know where they are and can drill/tap them.
We're here to help you spend your money :hee20hee20hee:
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For the transom, I'm leaning towards building up the outer skin and filling the existing holes method. What is the stringer construction on this model, foam filled wood and glass? I plan on removing all the existing wood and using high density foam for the majority of the rebuild. Luckily, Fiberglass Coatings is nearby along with the help of this site, I'm feeling lucky.
I've seen rebuilds where the floor is raised nearly 5". I'm trying to keep as much gunwale height as possible. I'm thinking 1.5" sole core set on top of the original deck lip would allow cockpit water to bail. Is there a minimum suggested height to raise the floor, or just guess until you can float her?
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Stringers on Aquasports almost from the beginning have been foam filled fiberglass. Things to check for would be are they still well bonded to the hull and is the foam dry? If they pass, you should be golden. If not, there are a lot of examples on this site that show the repair.
There are lots of these boats still running with the sole at stock height, and they work fine. I would think that with your deck raised as you describe, your boat will self bail well. Just don’t go crazy with power. These boats were designed in an age of much lighter 2 strokes.
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I have narrowed the powerplant to either a Yami F150 or F200 I4. Have found quite a bit of performance documented on the latter but not so much with the F150.
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What kind of bracket are you going to use or are you going with a porta lift? Can't have a fully enclosed transom without an offset to allow for the engine to tilt up.
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Going with a hydraulic porta lift, shortest setback available. How will that affect the vessel's center of gravity and placement of the fuel cell?
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I don't have one but many people here do, so I'll step back and let them fill you in.
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Circular saw seems to be the weapon of choice for cutting the sole and a disposable grinder for the transom core? Need to make a trip to Harbor Freight and get a canopy to shield from the elements and this early season storm.
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Did some cutting this past weekend...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/20180624_181220.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17254&title=20180624-181220&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/20180624_181307.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17256&title=20180624-181307&cat=2)
Top cap of the port side stringer near casting deck has nice crack, starboard side is still in great shape. Both are still bonded securely to hull. Will cut off tops and re-foam after transom is complete. Keel support core is gone, will just grind off and replace with PVC?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/20180624_181240.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17255&title=20180624-181240&cat=2)
Hopefully, will tackle transom removal this weekend. Cutting stringers back to the step-up and chisel/grind away at transom core. Any tips and suggestions welcome, Thanks!
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Now would be a good time to think about raising the stringer and sole height 2-3". Lots of people here steered me that direction, and a couple people here who didn't raise their decks, said they wish they would have.
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Good way to attack transom is to take a skill saw and cut from the inside vertically almost to the outer skin every 2 " and then use an air chisel and peel the sections away. Easy peasy.
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Slowly approaching the actual rebuild of the transom after the hours of grinding. Narrowed down the core material to either Coosa or Kay-Cell. As far as thickness goes, I see some rebuilds laminating two pieces of 3/4" together or others just using full 1-1/2"-2". I've discussed with others and heard that laminating two pieces of smaller thickness adds strength rather than one full thicker sheet?
Lam schedule will be as follows (inside --> out):
6 oz mat to fill factory transom knotch
3/4 oz mat
3x1708 4", 8", 12" progressive overlays
core material
3x1708 4", 8", 12" progressive overlays
3/4 oz mat
Can't bring myself to drill holes in the fresh core so the clamping system will be externally mounted 4x4's.
Pics of progress coming later today...
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If you're going with 2x3/4" material you can apply a 3/4oz Chopped mat between the layers along with the thickened resin. Make sure the place you laminate the transom core is flat.
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I'm at about the same stage on mine. If you decide to go with coosa, give marine surplus a call. They had a few sheets left last time I was down there that were way cheaper than anywhere else. Some of them were a little scuffed up but nothing that you couldn't work with.
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I'm at about the same stage on mine. If you decide to go with coosa, give marine surplus a call. They had a few sheets left last time I was down there that were way cheaper than anywhere else. Some of them were a little scuffed up but nothing that you couldn't work with.
Last place I called yesterday, and sure glad I did so...Beat online prices by $200+ for 1-1/2 sheet."
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Awesome, glad they had some left!
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Transom grinding progress...How far back do I have to grind? Glass mat seems pretty solid on the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180812_093318.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17446&title=20180812-093318&cat=500)
Had to grind back farther in some areas due to water intrusion/glass delamination. How fair does this surface need to be prior to laying up the new glass?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180812_093326.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17447&title=20180812-093326&cat=500)
Dished out holes...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180812_093403.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17448&title=20180812-093403&cat=500)
Now, just trying to find time to get to FGCI between work and collect materials.
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It doesn't have to be real fair.
Oh, and save yourself some disappointment and read these links:
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
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Man that looks familiar! I did pretty much the same thing, ground out the mat that was delamed or wet and left anything that was stuck on well. I'm not too worried about how fair it is since I figured it's getting a good layer of thickened epoxy all over it before the core goes in which should level it out some. I did add a bit of csm to the bigger spots though just because I had it on hand.