Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: MarcG on August 30, 2015, 04:13:02 PM
-
Hi all, new member and this is my first post. I just purchased a trailer that came with an early 70's Aquasport 170 hull that needs some work. My first task is to figure out what I've got - the seller didn't have a title and there does not appear to be a HIN on the transom. (yes, looking forward to that trip to Motor Vehicles!) Any help in determining the year will be greatly appreciated. I've attached some pics that show a bunch of the features that may help. If you need any more info about the boat just let me know.
Thanks, looking forward to getting her back in the water. Browsed a bunch of threads and you all make this look easy!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20150829_164025_1_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12868&title=170-aquasport&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20150829_164110_1_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12869&title=170-aquasport&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20150829_164135_2_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12870&title=170-aquasport&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20150829_164212_1_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12871&title=170-aquasport&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20150829_164100_1_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12872&title=170-aquasport&cat=771)
-
Welcome aboard Marc :salut2:
Based on our gallery info, you could have as early as a '71 model - not sure if our catalog is really a '71, says circa and my thinking it is a 50% chance that it is correct year.
Here is a article from '70 ('69 is the same) - notice front casting deck has 1 hatch and the console is different. The fuel tank in that year is inside the console.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2707&title=as-170-article6-june&cat=549
Here is a catalog view from '71. Notice the front casting deck now has 3 hatches and the console is the same as yours plus it looks like it has a sub-sole fuel tank. The cleats in the aft are recessed too where they were mounted on the gunwales prior to that.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2714&title=170-brochure3-c1971&cat=551
IMO you have at least a '71 or later. I have a '70 or earlier even though the title says '71. Actually I feel sorry for the next owner to figure mine out since I have sunk the tank below deck and cut another hatch in the casting deck plus added a built in seat to the front of the console. Hopefully they'll find this site where I documented the rebuild.
Again, welcome.
-
Welcome aboard!
//Lars
-
Looks very similar to a 1978 I purchased recently
-
Haven't posted in a while. I've been getting everything titled and registered - now that it's all mine time to get to work! Step one was flipping it over on the trailer to clean the bottom. I built a wooden brace wide enough to slide the trailer under and mounted a board across the transom. Two bolts through the outside scuppers and a three foot threaded rod in the center. Lifted the bow with an engine hoist and it rolled right over. Blocked it and rolled the trailer back under. I have a video of the boat turning over, just not sure how to post it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/image65.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13634&title=ready-to-flip&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/image64.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13633&title=flipping-her-over&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/image66.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13636&title=engine-hoist&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/image63.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13631&title=flipping-her-over&cat=771)
-
That's one of the reasons that this site is so great - you get a different perspective on doing things every time you log in. Nice flipping rig :salut2:
BTW Marc, I removed the attachments of the same pics - you're doing it correctly by using the gallery :thumleft:
-
I have a video of the boat turning over, just not sure how to post it.
I think you will find that you can post your video similar to your photos in the Gallery. Same procedure as a pic only you are downloading video. You then copy and paste the link (again, just like the photo) into your post. Rick may have a trick but I tried posting a sample that was on my hard drive and it seems to work.
Try it.
Good luck. :thumright:
-
hi, if it helps I have a 1973 and it looks identical to yours. the only difference I can see is that my fuel fill is on the starboard gunwale. it looks like you got this well in hand, hope the hull is sound. for what its worth, I had to replace the fuel tank and scrape the foam out. if yours is the same vintage my guess is you'll have to look at that as well (unless the PO took care of it). very ambitious flipping, i'm inspired.
-
Looking good! I look forward to following your project!
:thumleft:
//Lars
-
Got the bottom stripped down over the past few weeks. I started with some West Marine bottom paint stripper. I tried a few test patches, trying it covered and uncovered and testing the softness every hour. I found that covered and 12 hours worked best, so I would get up early and apply the stripper before work, cover it and go at it after dinner.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160131_130022.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13678&title=aquasport-170-bottom-stripping&cat=771)
Overall I would say it worked pretty well. I'm guessing there was about five coats on the bottom (judging by the different colors) and in some spots it went through all five. Several sections scraped off like it was just painted on, others took a little more work. The mess on the sides of the hull are from pulling off the plastic - the stripper turned the top layer back into wet paint! A quick wipe with acetone after I finished scraping really cleaned it up nicely.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160205_074751.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13679&title=aquasport-170-bottom-stripping&cat=771)
Found some interesting evidence of past work (or lack of work!) One section had a previous patch and a ton of filler. (picture above near the keel) After getting it clean found that the epoxy patch stood a quarter inch higher than the hull, and instead of grinding it flush just filled it and tapered it back to the hull. My favorite though is the keel up by the bow. Clearly it had been run up on the beach regularly - all the gelcoat was worn away. Instead of patching or replacing the gelcoat, it just got more coats of bottom paint!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160213_152458.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13680&title=aquasport-170-bottom-stripping&cat=771)
Here is the hull after sanding. I'll be painting with VC Performance Epoxy after I get everything repaired. RickK - expect questions coming your way!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160213_181858.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13681&title=aquasport-170-bottom-stripping&cat=771)
-
hi, if it helps I have a 1973 and it looks identical to yours. the only difference I can see is that my fuel fill is on the starboard gunwale. it looks like you got this well in hand, hope the hull is sound. for what its worth, I had to replace the fuel tank and scrape the foam out. if yours is the same vintage my guess is you'll have to look at that as well (unless the PO took care of it). very ambitious flipping, i'm inspired.
I got lucky there - the tank was replaced already. It was held in just by the straps and a couple of wood wedges. I'm going to have the tank inspected and if everything is good, use foam when it's ready to go back in.
-
looking good :01_37:
Are you planning to foam the gas tank in place? Before you do, do some research on this site or the web. Foam against an aluminum tank (I'm assuming it is aluminum) is frequently blamed for corrosion issues. Some people put the foam inside heavy duty Ziploc bags to prevent any chemical interaction. There are other methods of securing the tank without foam. I am not familiar with it, but there is something called the "Pascoe Method" that is frequently recommended.
Good luck, and keep up the great progress!
-
Great progress :clap01:
While it's upside down lay a 5-6 foot straightedge from the bottom of the transom forward and see if there is a hook in the hull (a gap between the hull and straightedge) - mine had 3/8" in the last 3 feet in front of the transom. If it is bad, fill it while you're at it.
You didn't mention your big plan for the hull but if you're going to paint it, plan on using a high build primer to cover the little stuff.
-
Great work! :nSalute:
Looking forward to following your restoration!
//Lars
-
Great progress :clap01:
While it's upside down lay a 5-6 foot straightedge from the bottom of the transom forward and see if there is a hook in the hull (a gap between the hull and straightedge) - mine had 3/8" in the last 3 feet in front of the transom. If it is bad, fill it while you're at it.
You didn't mention your big plan for the hull but if you're going to paint it, plan on using a high build primer to cover the little stuff.
Thanks for the tip. I put a long straight edge along the keel and ran it down both sides. A few high and low spots but nothing more than 1/16" or so. I don't think that would be worth trying to improve, but if it makes a big difference let me know. The hull will be painted. I already have the VC Performance epoxy so I'm good there. Happy to take any suggestions on topside primer and paint. I was leaning towards Interlux Perfection until the guy at Ben's Paints told me about Awl Grip. Expensive but sounds amazing. I thought it needed to be sprayed be he says it comes out fine with the roll and tip method.
-
Sounds like the boat is "hookless"- thats a good thing :thumleft:
Check with Joel - click the banner Ad at the top and check out the EMC paint. Good paint is pricey for sure but the EMC is repairable. Also talk to him about the hi-build primer. The stuff I got from him was pretty thick stuff. He has a ton of experience rebuilding boats.
-
looking good :01_37:
Are you planning to foam the gas tank in place? Before you do, do some research on this site or the web. Foam against an aluminum tank (I'm assuming it is aluminum) is frequently blamed for corrosion issues. Some people put the foam inside heavy duty Ziploc bags to prevent any chemical interaction. There are other methods of securing the tank without foam. I am not familiar with it, but there is something called the "Pascoe Method" that is frequently recommended.
Good luck, and keep up the great progress!
Great advice - thank you!! I found this article that describes the problem with using foam. http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm I think I'll follow the Pascoe method, and reuse the metal straps with a neoprene padding instead of the original rubber.
-
Glad I could help! Looking forward to more progress!
-
I bought some epoxy (FGCI), fiberglass and tools from Ben's Paints in Longwood, so I tried my first repair. Great sales guy Mark over there - gave me a lot of tips. Seems like everything went well - probably not worth mentioning except it's the first time I ever worked with fiberglass. Read about a dozen articles and watched at least as many YouTube videos. In the end it seemed pretty easy - ground it to a taper, backed it with some foam and used five layers of mat and cloth. Now to sand it, fill it and fair it. For that I'll use more epoxy mixed with Q-Cell that I picked up at Fiberglass Florida in Rockledge. (nice new retail store by the way - they have everything) I probably won't get a good sense of how I did until I prime it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160205_074835.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13674&title=aquasport-170-first-fiberglass-fix&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160313_152309.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13675&title=aquasport-170-first-fiberglass-fix&cat=771) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160313_162048.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13673&title=aquasport-170-first-fiberglass-fix&cat=771) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160318_180031.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13672&title=aquasport-170-first-fiberglass-fix&cat=771)
I bought this dust shroud online. Worked very well connected to my shop vac; very little dust escaped.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160313_153127.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13676&title=aquasport-170-first-fiberglass-fix&cat=771)
-
While I've been working on the bottom I've also picked up a better trailer. It needed a new set of springs and rollers but otherwise was in pretty good shape. So I bought new springs and ordered a few new parts. When it came time to swap out the springs some of the bolts broke off. No big deal, but I noticed that several other bolts could use replacing. While I'm at it, maybe touch up the galvanizing compound in a few spots. Also maybe loosen and clean up the bolts for the roller carriers in case I needed to adjust them. Maybe fix the dent in the fender and paint the rails.... Eventually this happened:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160309_085622.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13677&title=aquasport-170-trailer-rebuild&cat=771)
So now the whole thing gets a coat of cold galvanizing compound, new hubs, lights, rollers and of course bolts for the springs but it should be good as new when I'm done. Though I probably should have taken more pictures of it when it was all in one piece!
-
That's funny. Sounds like something that I would do too.
-
Nice!
-
While finishing up the trailer I've been working on the center console and leaning post. The holes are patched and the console is almost ready for primer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160730_125003.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14568&title=rebuilding-the-console&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20160820_130629.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14569&title=rebuilding-the-console&cat=771)
I made a seat frame out of plywood wrapped in glass and added the foam. Next step is to finish sewing up the vinyl...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/leaning_post_seat.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14570&title=leaning-post-seat&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/leaning_post_foam.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14571&title=leaning-post-foam&cat=771)
-
Making progress!
-
Slow progress. Finished the bottom and painted it with Interlux VC Epoxy. At 90 degrees and with the 2333N at 10% it went on way to thin. I cooled it off inside the house and left the mix bucket in an ice bath for the later coats and it applied much nicer. Just the roller; tipping left some streaks. Wet sanded down most of the orange peel and it looks pretty good. Flipped it back over so it's on the new (to me) and recently refurbished trailer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161019_182934.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14854&title=bottom-done&cat=771)
-
Where I live I would have to bring it inside to warm it up... ;)
//Lars
-
Marc,
I have a 1973 170 that I am wanting to mount a TM on right bow. Since it seems you have had hull pretty much opened up, can you help me with figuring out a wiring path ?
Not clear to me that from hole under console I can snake wire forward. Have not removed the 'gutter cover' yet. I do realize there is a bow light, but the wires look pretty foamed in and I suspect it was run during construction.
Sure would like to have things planned out before drilling any holes !!!
Thanks.
-
Hi Aquamaniac, I haven't opened up the inside yet, that's the next project. From what I've seen, most of the wiring is laid up high in the inner liner and not easy to remove or replace since much of it is in foam. There is a hole in the bottom of the anchor locker to access the lower bow eye. That may lead down to the bilge so you may be able to run a wire snake down it. I'm guessing you need to get the other end of the wire back to the console. On mine there doesn't seem to be any foam between the stringers under the fuel coffin, so that may work.
-
Better picture of the bottom
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161030_175843.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14913&title=freshly-painted-bottom&cat=771)
Also finished patching up the holes in the console and put on a coat of primer. Rolled and tipped which was a mistake given the limited self leveling properties of epoxy primer. May spray it next time if I feel I can do it safely. Should go a lot faster too. I'd like to do the interior in 2 part paint for durability.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161030_180006.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14914&title=console-primed&cat=771)
-
Very nice!
-
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161204_134602.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14979&title=cutting-the-sole&cat=771)
Guess what comes next.
-
Before you cut, what is the plan? 2" all the way around and then set the new floor on top? Keeping the trough? If so, you'll need to build the edge of that up too.
-
Yes, new floor is going on top. I laid out some contractor paper on top first and made a template of the whole floor, including where the fuel tank coffin is located. Figured that was the easiest way to trim the new floor to shape before dropping it in. Leaving a 2" lip and I'll build up the stringers. No trough for the cables; I'll add tubing underneath to run everything.
Which brings me to questions:
Core material (floor and transom). Was thinking plywood but for the cost may go with Coosa or CoreLite. Anyone have experience with these or have other suggestions?
Thickness. Thinking 1 1/2 for the transom, 5/8 for the floor.
Chase under the floor. 3in. or 4in. PVC? I'll use the sweep bends instead of the 90 deg. bends. Separate chase for fuel line? Assume this could be 2in.
I'll add more pics once everything is cleaned out. I'm expecting to replace the flotation foam but fingers crossed the stringers are in good shape.
-
You never mentioned the transom and what your plan is on it - raise it to full? or leave it as a 20" notched? Where will you bring up the rigging tubes and how will you keep them water tight? These are the same questions I went through as I did my rebuild and I decided to make custom cabinets in the corners to bring the tubes up into the boat. Wood or composite is fine for the transom and floor - your choice.
-
I remember the cabinets you added, great idea. I was thinking of following your process and adding something similar to the Edgewater 17. I'm attaching a picture. I'll leave the transom at 20" and the new notch will follow the lines for the boxes. I like the idea of the boat shedding a lot of water fast if I get swamped. I'm thinking running the rigging pipes up the starboard side and using something similar to what the Edgewater has to keep the water out. Port side will be a livewell. I'd like to connect the two boxes about a foot forward of the transom to make a splashwell, and add drains in the corners feeding back to it.
-
Sounds like a plan.
-
Took the whole day but making some progress.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/IMG_4540.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15009&title=boat-demo&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/IMG_4541.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15010&title=boat-demo&cat=771)
Removed 60 pounds of wet foam. Thank you to whoever provided the tip of using an air chisel on the bedding compound, big time saver! Now on to the transom...
-
Great work!
Looks very similar to what I did 2 years ago. What are your plans for the transom?
I used Seacast. I have been very happy with it. No cracks or failures after two seasons.
Keep up the good work!
//Lars
-
Yup, brings back memories. After you clean up the inside you'll get a chance to look at the stringers and decide if you need to take it any deeper.
-
I considered the Seacast, but I would have had a problem on this boat. If you look at this shot of the transom, the bottom six inches of the inside fiberglass was VERY thin. The black at the top is the wood and there is one, maybe two layers of glass. It would have been impossible to scrape that out without putting holes in it. Besides, I'm thinking of adding boxes in the back so at that point it's not much work to just rebuild the inner skin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161219_151313.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15018&title=removing-the-old-transom&cat=771)
I cut out the back corners to re-use them, and scored up the inner liner and plywood to make it easy to chisel out. The ply against the outer skin was completely rotted out. The first piece you see removed actually just fell off without any prying.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161219_105648.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15015&title=removing-the-old-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161219_145258.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15017&title=removing-the-old-transom&cat=771)
I figure I'm about two-thirds done, plenty left for tomorrow!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161219_183206.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15019&title=removing-the-old-transom&cat=771)
-
Transom is clean after a lot more grinding and scraping. Thank goodness for the oscillating multi tool. Did a great job on the last layer of wood using the chisel blade.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161220_143048.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15128&title=20161220-143048&cat=771)
I counted about 70 holes the transom collected over 40 years so the plywood never had a chance. Repairs ranged from epoxy to wood plugs to caulking.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161223_103721.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15129&title=20161223-103721&cat=771)
One crack in the port stringer. It didn't look too bad at first until I started grinding it back and found the two foot crack was closer to six feet. Luckily it didn't run up under the casting platform so it should be an easy fix. I didn't find the stringer was bedded down, rather just tabbed to the hull with a gap. I'll fill the gap with thickened epoxy then tab over it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161223_103827.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15130&title=20161223-103827&cat=771)i
-
Great progress! The stringers look to be in great shape.
-
Great progress! :thumleft:
You are luckier than I was. My stringers were waterlogged.
//Lars
-
Took a short break from the boat to work on another project, refinishing the stairs in the house. Now back to the boat! I loaded up on supplies just after New Years, plenty of resin, fiberglass and foam. Picked up a few sheets of CoreLite from a distributor in Miami as well. Recycled the brace I used to flip over the boat and now it a rack for all the material.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161224_2051121.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15700&title=template-for-the-sole&cat=771)
Dug out the foam over the spot on the port stringer where the tabbing to the hull cracked. Re-tabbed the stringer (the crack was actually almost six feet) and refilled the foam. Rock solid now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170416_155813.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15708&title=building-the-transom&cat=771)
Before I had cut out the floor I had made a template out of contractor paper...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20161127_154339.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15709&title=sole-template&cat=771)
Made it easy to layout the pattern on the the 1/2 inch CoreLite.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170401_180527.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15701&title=template-for-the-sole&cat=771)
Fit perfectly into place. Feels good to be rebuilding finally!!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170401_185308.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15702&title=template-for-the-sole&cat=771)
-
Welcome back!! Progress is a good thing :thumright:
-
Now on to the transom. I picked up a sheet of 3/16 inch fiberboard from Lowes and made a template. I decided to raise the transom sides hoping to keep the boat a little dryer while keeping the 20" outboard. It looks like the transom from the 90's 17 foot Aquasports with the boxes in the stern.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170414_115353.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15703&title=template-for-the-transom&cat=771)
Part of the design was to make sure I could get two pieces out of one sheet of 3/4 inch CoreLite.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170414_115416.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15704&title=building-the-transom&cat=771)
The rack and a rolling workbench sure make it easier to layout the 1708 for cutting.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170414_134221.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15706&title=building-the-transom&cat=771)
Bonded the two pieces together with one layer in between, then added two layers to each side. Feels pretty solid, and when I add another layer and I bond it back to the outer skin, and tab it into place it should be even stronger. I was thinking of incorporating transom knees coming up off the stringers. Good idea on a boat this size or overkill?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170416_153645.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15707&title=building-the-transom&cat=771)
-
Overkill.
-
My '76 170 has the fuel fill starboard, not port like yours. Also, the other noticeable difference between whatever year hull yours is and the '76 is the size and shape of the bow hatch. '76 bow hatch is trapezoid shape. Though it's possible a previous owner of your hull altered the hatch's size and shape.
My HIN# is enclosed by a rectangle, is located port side, exterior transom, directly under the transom ring. The # looks to have been originally pressed in. So I can imagine if your transom had been painted/coated more than several times over the years, the HIN# filled and became flush with the transom surface. If you still have the transom you removed, try sanding down the area I mentioned to see if the HIN# becomes visible.
-
BNS - do you have a pic of the HIN so he can see an example?
-
BNS - do you have a pic of the HIN so he can see an example?
This is the best I can do at the moment until I get out to boat again. This pic should lead him to location of where the HIN# would be. Picture is poor quality so I drew a red arrow pointing to the rectangular box containing the number. The previous owner of my boat had the common sense to not paint over it when he put a new coat on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/HIN_copy.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15722&title=hin-copy&cat=500)
-
It looked like there had been something in same spot on my boat. You can see four holes that form a rectangle. Probably had a plate with the hin on it. The fuel fill is on the starboard side. I think in some of the early pictures it may have looked like a fuel fill on the port, but that was just some spare parts dropped into a rod holder hole. I thought the trapezoid shape casting deck hatch was only on the very early models, but maybe they held onto it that for a few more years. The other difference I noticed on some boats was an extra crossmember in the stringers behind the fuel tank. Mine doesn't have one.
-
Usually they put a plate in the mold with the HIN on it and then shot the mold and did their lamination schedule with glass and chopper gun. When they pulled the hull from the mold there was a bare spot with the HIN exposed in the glass.
-
I thought the trapezoid shape casting deck hatch was only on the very early models, but maybe they held onto it that for a few more years. The other difference I noticed on some boats was an extra crossmember in the stringers behind the fuel tank. Mine doesn't have one.
The picture quality is poor so I can't say with 100%, but it looks like a previous owner of your hull expanded the bow hatch. I sketched red arrows to the areas of suspect. Just doesn't look factory cut. The second picture is my bow hatch. You can easily see the difference in dimensions.
Now that you have cleared up the actual location of fuel fill being on starboard, other than your bow hatch having different dimensions (most likely altered), my '76 hull is identical. So yours could be a '76.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Hatch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15727&title=bow-hatch&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/My_Bow_Hatch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15728&title=my-bow-hatch&cat=500)
-
Got it, thank you for clarifying. The opening for the anchor locker was definitely enlarged by a previous owner. Thanks for the help. Figure not much changed on the boat around those years so I'll probably never know for sure. Not a big deal, still a great boat!
-
I built up the areas on the transom that will sit above the original outer skin. Figured it would be easier to do this on the work bench than when installed and vertical. The circles are where I didn't work the resin through well enough (air bubbles) so I'll grind it back and re-do it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170423_184057.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15737&title=20170423-184057&cat=771)
Just about ready to install. The plan is to wet out the both the inside of the transom skin and the new transom with epoxy, add one layer of cloth to the transom, then when everything is in the gel stage, spread a coat of thickened epoxy (fumed silica) across the transom and clamp it into place. Happy to take suggestions!
-
Have you lam'd any cloth onto the transom already? I don't see any pics of beefing it up before this. I think I would beef it up a little with a couple layers of 1708. After it's hardened and you've scruffed it up, then use your plan to trowel on the thickened resin and clamp the core in. Skip the cloth part of your plan. Also, make sure the drain hole remains the low point of the boat, lamming it to beef it up and also glassing in the transom with a couple layers of 1708 will move the low point forward of the transom. You can glass in a pipe before you start beefing it up, maybe about a foot long and then grind it back when done with the transom. There are examples of this in several rebuilds that I've advised it. I didn't think of this on my rebuild and the low point is now 1 foot in front of the transom :-(
-
Thanks for the advice Rick. I have two layers of 1708 on each side of the Corelite. Are you suggesting I put a few layers of 1708 onto the inside of the outer skin of the transom too? I was planning to use cloth instead of 1708 since I'll be using epoxy and that won't break down the binder in the mat.
-
If you have 1708DB (without mat) use it, otherwise I would put a couple lams of 1708 on the inside of the transom, I wouldn't worry about the little bit of mat that is in it. I used a lot of 1708 on my rebuild and a lot of the build was epoxy. You want a stout transom skin. Then scruff it up, mix up your putty, pull a nice big fillet in all the corners and then trowel the putty onto the either the transom skin or the core, set and clamp it in. Don't forget the PVC pipe to the drain. Look up Hawgleg's rebuild and it'll show you what I am talking about.
-
Got it, thank you, I would have never thought of that but now it makes perfect sense! Adding the link to HawgLeg's rebuild for anyone else to reference.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
-
To help explain it more:
Here is a link to where I explain the thought
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Then looking at Hawglegs build to see it being implemented makes more sense.
-
Productive weekend, well Saturday at least. Sunday was Mother's day so no working in the garage! Transom is in. Thanks Rick for the advice. The added layer of 1708 against the outer skin helped add strength and kept the epoxy from oozing out of all the holes. Did a dry run to make sure my clamping set up would work, then thickened up a bunch of epoxy with fumed silica and troweled it in. Also added a few boards on the inside to make sure every section had pressure. To fill in the gap I mixed up another batch with fumed silica and chopped stands of glass, then squeezed it into the gap by filling a ziplock and cutting off a corner.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170513_162545.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15807&title=installing-the-new-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170513_162609.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15808&title=installing-the-new-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170513_184544.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15809&title=installing-the-new-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170513_200055.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15810&title=installing-the-new-transom&cat=771)
I'll let everything sit until next weekend, glass back in the rest of the stringers and a new drain tube, then tab everything back in.
-
Looks good.
-
:great02:
-
Slow but steady progress over the last few weekends. It's getting a little hot to be working outside in central Florida!
Glassed the ends of the stringers back in, made a fillet around the perimeter and tabbed in the transom. Next will be fitting the chase tubes for the controls.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170624_134225.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15987&title=transom-tabbed-in&cat=771)
-
Each day you work on her it is another checked off task, even if it a "sit and stare" (thinking) day.
-
Funny you should write that because I do have a page and a half of tasks written out, checking off as I go. Finished three more this weekend: filled the ends of the stringers with 4# foam; roughed in the chase tubes and cut up the leftover CoreLite from the transom for shims to fill the gap between the tops of the stringers and the floor. :thumleft:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/Chase_tubes.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16039&title=chase-tubes&cat=771)
-
Slow progress over the summer, which lasts until about October down here in Florida. Now that I'm getting my weekends back I'm getting back to work. I formed the sole out of 1/2 inch CoreLite pvc board and trimmed it to shape with the template. The bottom and top were glassed over with 1708 and poly resin. I added a shallow trough at the stern to hopefully help the deck drain and collect any water quickly as it heads to the scuppers. I used some of the scrap CoreLite to shim up the stringers to raise the floor to the new height.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170902_124327.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16540&title=sole-and-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20170904_104053.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16541&title=sole-and-transom&cat=771)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20171105_171133.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16542&title=sole-and-transom&cat=771)
The new inner skin for the transom is two layers each of mat and roven, followed by two layers of 1708, all in epoxy. Trying to make this as strong as possible since the outboards I'm looking at weigh close to 400 lbs.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20171105_171149.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16543&title=sole-and-transom&cat=771)
-
Lookin' good!
-
Looks good! Are your scuppers going to be in the center?
-
Planning on two towards the middle, maybe 12 inches apart. That will leave me room in the corners to add two boxes in the back, one for storage and to pass the outboard cables through, and one for a small live well.
-
:great02:
-
The work continues! Added the fuel coffin back to the new sole. I trimmed back the bottom skin and core, leaving the top skin in place and bonded the fuel coffin back in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20171230_141526.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16659&title=finishing-the-sole&cat=500)
Filled the gaps, added a fillet and glassed it to the bottom for strength.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20171211_1818541.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16658&title=finishing-the-sole&cat=500)
Faired out the new deck and added the hatch for access to the bilge. Just about ready to be reinstalled!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180103_182344.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16660&title=finishing-the-sole&cat=500)
-
Looks good - bet the sole is starting to get heavy now.
-
Hi Everyone, took a few years off while we moved and did a major home remodel, but the big upside is I now have a workshop to finish my project in. Just installed the sole, and getting ready to add some boxes in the back, one for storage and one for the livewell. Before I go any further though, I want to make sure I made the outboard opening in the transom large enough for the outboard. My plan is to go with a Yamaha 115. The base of the opening is 18", tapering up to about 24" at the top. Will this be enough for the motor to swing all of the way side to side, and fully tilt up? Does anyone have a similar size outboard and a sense of how much of an opening is needed?
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/Transom_01.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21417&title=transom-01&cat=771)
-
Depends on which Yamaha 115 you use... the 115 v4 2 stroke is SUPER wide! I think it will definitely fit with motor straight, but if you were to turn the wheel with motor tilted all the way up, your cowling may hit the transom corners.
I can measure my transom soon but the boat is sadly covered with a tarp and snow at the moment!
I raised my transom wings about 3" from factory, so it's not a direct comparison, but maybe it will help.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/894/fared_transom.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19665&title=fared-transom&cat=894)
-
Glad to see you back at it Marc.
-
You are doing a great job!
:thumleft:
//Lars
-
I decided to open up the transom to make sure there won't be any issue with the motor. Plus it was nice to restore the original (if slightly modified) transom shape. I copied Wingnut's design and left the wings raised. This should keep it dryer, let it drain faster if it were swamped and make it easier to step into from the swim platform.
Adding some photos of the hoist/winch combo I used to lower in the new sole, and the mold I set up up to fabricate the livewell.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20201229_143605.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21432&title=lowering-in-the-new-sole&cat=771)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20201229_163253.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21433&title=new-sole&cat=771)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20210102_141629.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21434&title=mold-for-livewell&cat=771)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/771/20210102_154840.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21435&title=mold-for-livewell&cat=771)