Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: adpostel on March 02, 2011, 09:43:33 PM
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What can you do to clean this up. This has been like this since I got the boat, but since we are rebuilding it, I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what could be done with all this mess......
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd202/adpostel/1978%20Aquasport/IMG_20110302_122746-1.jpg)
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Might want to do something like this...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/TalonF22/StarboardBilge002.jpg)
Here's a link top a Talon F-20 rebuild that I have done/am doing for one of my clients. No, not an AS, but she was gutted, stem to stern...
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh30 ... /TalonF22/ (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/TalonF22/)
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I like that, but the only thing is I don't have any access other than a small deck hatch about 7-8 inches to get to the bilge area. Is this setup stock/original on the Aquasports? Or is this somebodies hack job.....
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somebodies hack job.....
:thumright:
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Is/are your battery(s) under the console? If so, move the main buss there.
I not sure why someone would do that. :scratch: unless....
Dr. Emilio Lizardo was the PO :o
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/JohnLithgowEmilioLizardo.jpg)
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I have almost the identical "buss" bar in the rear of my 73' 22-2; it looks identical. The previous owner says that this was a factory option (not the wiring I hope). I also have the original fiberglass cover that mounts over top of the connections that helps less water from running down on them. You really have to have something back there to keep your engine battery cables connected to your remote battery cables out of the bilge water. Although my little fiberglass box is quite nostalgic; it is quite useless for the purpose that was intended. I would like to find on old OMC junction box that used to have the trim soleniods mounted in them before they put them under the cowling. It had a hinged front and good mounting feet on it and was quite water resistant. Maybe Seabob has a couple of these old OMC junction boxes in his "not ready to throw out" bin!
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I have almost the identical "buss" bar in the rear of my 73' 22-2; it looks identical. The previous owner says that this was a factory option (not the wiring I hope). I also have the original fiberglass cover that mounts over top of the connections that helps less water from running down on them. You really have to have something back there to keep your engine battery cables connected to your remote battery cables out of the bilge water. Although my little fiberglass box is quite nostalgic; it is quite useless for the purpose that was intended. I would like to find on old OMC junction box that used to have the trim soleniods mounted in them before they put them under the cowling. It had a hinged front and good mounting feet on it and was quite water resistant. Maybe Seabob has a couple of these old OMC junction boxes in his "not ready to throw out" bin!
I know the exact OMC box you are referring to. You might be better off if you have to leave it where it is in sourcing a waterproof box that is low profile as well. That OMC box, I have a kitchen strainer that has better waterproofing abilities.
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I have almost the identical "buss" bar in the rear of my 73' 22-2; it looks identical.
Could very well be OEM. :salut:
Looky.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 554/page/1 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/2725/sort/1/size/medium/cat/554/page/1)
Check bullet item #9 under standard equipment. :scratch:
Learn something new every day. 8)
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Lowes has a waterproof cover that should work. 10-15 bucks
transparent plastic so you can see the sparks jumping :lol:
1-Gang Rectangle Plastic Electrical Box Cover
•Saves time - no inserts to slow down the job, no labor intensive cutouts
•Lockable cover design prohibits tampering and adds security
•Horizontal or vertical orientation
•Accommodates GFCI, single and duplex receptacles, toggle switches, and single receptacles up to 1/59" in diameter
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc447/docreed4949/042269005266lg.jpg)
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Is this the box that ya'll are referring to? It has a solenoid inside it, along with all the connections for the tilt/trim. I wonder if this could be relocated to the helm? I am guessing you want it as close to the motor as possible?
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd202/adpostel/1978%20Aquasport/DSC04137-1.jpg)
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd202/adpostel/1978%20Aquasport/IMG_20110302_122803.jpg)
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Thats the box! You have to have a decent connection between the engine leads and the helm batteries above the bilge water. You can't run 00 or size 1 cables into the engine directly from your battery switch; they won't fit inside the engine opening. I'm going to look for something between Docreeds offering and the OMC box.
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I have almost the identical "buss" bar in the rear of my 73' 22-2; it looks identical. The previous owner says that this was a factory option (not the wiring I hope). I also have the original fiberglass cover that mounts over top of the connections that helps less water from running down on them.
That makes sense then - didn't know there was a cover that fit over it. I retract my other post.
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Blue Sea Systems makes this Busbar that incorporates positive and negative under a somewhat protected cover. Its not waterproof, but then again, look at what I have had on my boat for the past decade. I may even use something like this if I cant move everything under the helm.
(http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd202/adpostel/186.png)
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Is/are your battery(s) under the console? If so, move the main buss there.
I not sure why someone would do that.
People run a rear bus to avoid having to run (add number here) wires from the back to the front. I have two busses, one front, one rear, then only one large ground wire to the rear bus.
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People run a rear bus to avoid having to run (add number here) wires from the back to the front. I have two busses, one front, one rear, then only one large ground wire to the rear bus.
OK.
I may run a rear buss for both power and ground feeds on the WAC to allow a larger wire gauge from my relocated batteries to said buss. As another member stated, you can't fit the larger gauge wire needed to reduce voltage drop under the cowling (at least not on my 91 Yam.) but...
Maybe I'm not understanding. If your battery(s) is/are in the stern, I understand the rear batt. switch/buss setup (i.g. Bob's pic). Depending on where your switch controls are, you still need at least two wires (coming and going) to that point. If you keep your switches in the stern area, that would save wire.
I also have stern lights, an anchor light, bilge pump, washdown/bait well pump, courtesy(under gunnel (?) lighting) that need separate controls (switch). I mounted my controls (the switches) in the helm area because my buss is relatively close to the batteries.
It is nice (and insures a higher degree of safety) to use an non switched power source (at the rear buss) say for a bilge pump controlled via a float switch.
It's just cat skinnin' :wink:
PS... OK, for you friends of the felines, no real cats were used in the creation of this post. :mrgreen:
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I don't have a positive bus in the rear, just a negative. Instead of having two wires coming from the console for every rear mounted accessory, I just have a positive - then the negative side attaches to my ground bus. Then one negative wire goes back to the console.
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Ah,
The fog lifts.
Thanks LilR. :salut:
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So then on my boat, there would still be no way to eliminate a bus at the rear. I could only move it to a different place for asthetics correct? Heck I still gotta hook up my trolling motor to the 24v source I have back there as well.....I dunno, I'll keep thinking about it. I would love to not have any busses or wires mounted externally in the rear. Maybe I should install a larger deck hatch and then have access to the bilge and put the busses in the bilge? Again, I don't know......any and all advice is still appreciated...
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Again, I don't know......any and all advice is still appreciated...
How about this.
Make a list of all your electrical components and their location on the boat.
Include with that your point of service i.e. battery(s) and any future gizmos you might want to add that you don't currently have (think bait/ wash down pump for instance or maybe a blender :drunken: ).
Anyway, you get the point and I'm sure that someone will offer up a "cat skin".
Bob C. is really quite good at such problems and you can (if you haven't already) find several of his schematics linked in the Resource forum under "Wiring Diagram PDF.
Good luck.