Anybody Seen A Pair of These?

[Seadog]

Are you going to use the compartments for storage?  Are you leaving the panels in the hull?  I think draining out those in floor compartments is going ot be a real problem.  Have you given any thought to the best way to drain them out?  Any solutions?  I haven't come up with one yet.

[fishbonz]

Captain Flatback-  My 1972 222 needs a little glasswork.  Can you refer me to your Tampa glass guy?  I am having trouble finding somebody I can rely on to get the work done right and in a timely manner.

Thanks.

[captflatback]

Seadog, what i did is run a pice of pvc sch40 at the lowest part of the compartment under my new gas tank and new bulkhead to the bilge area. I did this with all my compartments. Yes im leaving in the glass it's to cool to look in when your idling along on a flat.


Fishbonz, The fiberglass shop is hammer head boat works on the coner of Rome and Cypress and the person you need to talk to is Tommy and his # is 813-478-0698 tell him jim sent you. I know he has alot going on right now but give him a call.

[Wilson]

I know some folks who have had him do some work.  If you talk to him, let him know about this site.

I know he does alot of work on old Aquasports, am I correct in assuming that he will work on other boats.  I need some (a lot) of bottom work on the Mako.

[captflatback]

Yes he works on any make boat.

[Seadog]

Captflatback - I thought of that too - running the PVC aft under the tank to the bilge.  Are you going to be able to plug that hole in the compartment, or will it stay open to drain?  I agree - the panels are too cool to glass over.  

Did you add a new tank under the floor?  Was the original tank above the floor?  I'm trying to figure a way of putting the original above floor tank, under the floor with an access panel.  Thanks for the help!!!

[captflatback]

Are you asking can i plug the hole in the window or into the bilge? If the window it is yes and no for the bilge. For the tank i cut out a part of the middle stringer and put in a new tank in the floor. I went with the new tank becase i didn't know how old the other tank was plus it gave me more room for the new rigging tube.

[Seadog]

This is a shot of my boat.  I'm thinkin' of cutting out that middle stringer just behind the 'window compartment.  Add a place for the tank, about 6' worth and add an access panel in the floor.  Is your tank that far forward, in about the same place?

Yea, I was wondereing if the window compartment was open into the drain to the bilge.  Thanks!

CA has been a big help already.  Glad you guys are here 'cause I'm gonna need some more help along the way.


I posted this in another thread ("Below Deck Fuel Tank", in the re-build section).

[Wilson]

That is probably ok, but leave as much of that stringer as you can.  They put it there for a reason.  

Are you going to put a full transom on it?

Do me a favor and explain what I am looking at.  The "window compartment"  is just aft of the step up?  

Was it a bait well?

[Seadog]

Yep - the compartment is aft of the step-up. Compartment is rectangular.
To get oriented: Were looking aft from the bow. The 'window compartment' is along the mid-line, it has a hammer and chisel laying on the aft wall of the compartment.  The electic cord coming over the port side is plugged into a circular saw that you can barely see the top of.  The circular saw is layin in the window compartment.  Those planks of wood that are stacked on the port side are next to the compartment.





Another view. This is a shot from the transom looking forward.  The compartment here is also along the mid-line, laying to the right of the circular saw. And behind and to the right of the white bucket.

This compartment was originally plumbed as a live well.  I can't stand the inconvenience of in-floor live wells but I think I'm gonna keep it that way because those clear panels are way to cool to not use in a live well.  It'll be pretty slick puttin in some green-backs in there so they can see through the panels.

I'm planning on enclosing the transom with Coosa, adding a Porta-Bracket with  power in the 150 - 200 range.





Last shot is of the panels, after I tore the thing apart - removed the compartment walls down to the hull.

[Wilson]

I am going to start a new thread with my latest doing exactly what you are talking about.

[captflatback]

Hi Seadog,

My Boat has 7 inchs of stringer from the window comparment looking aft then i cut out 5 feet for the tank and put a bulkhead and then went about 24 inchs with no stringer for livewell pluming and thats were the stringer starts again for 24 inchs then i out into the bulkhead that enclosed the bilge area. For the full transom i used kelmdryed 50 yr plywood 3 sheets with mat not the coosa board the hi density coosa board was a lot of $$$$ and wood is good if you do it right. I did knee the transom off the two stringers from the middle stringer to give the transom more suport. For the hp i put a 05 honda 150 4-stroke on a paralift. Im about 3 to 4 weeks from bing done i hope?

[Wilson]

I posted the interior in the Photo Gallery.  I pulled out the 5 wood stringers and put in glass and foam stringers reminiscent of the ones in yall's.  I used 1/2" coosa for all bulk heads.

[Seadog]

Wilson - you guys do some amazing work!  She looks great.

Captflatback - Hey thanks for the help!

Your rebuild is very similar to how mine will be and it's good to know someone that is doing a restoration has the same ideas in mind that I have.  

If I understand you right you are puttin in the live well in the leaning post and you have left out roughly 7' of that central stringer for the fuel tank and the livewell plumbing.

Is there any stringer at all along the midline of the hull, under the tank?
How many gallons is your tank?

Sorry to keep buggin you with these questions, brother, but we have very similar boats, are restoring them in a similar way just yours is in a much more advanced stage of repair.




Transom rot





Once I got the inner skin off the wood was soakin wet.

I'm goin with two 3/4" coosa for the full transom and 1/4" Klegecell for the floor.

[Wilson]

Great pix.  I've been through the wet, stank transom.  Once you get everything out, the fun starts, when you get to put it all back in.

What are you using for a transom core?