Outboard install is off and running! Video and GPS reading!

[icemanbryan]

Well, I have some questions.
1) Should we disconnect the oil injection system and run 50 to 1?
2) Where can I purchase the motor lifting tool for the flywheel?
3) Where can I purchase a transom template?
4) I will be happy to donate the above two items once done.
5) I ordered a couple of books on rigging and one on Evenrude installations.
6) Bob, if you could, some pointers to do this. Maybe a wiring color chart?
I am a little confused about the rigging tube, should I have 2 on the same side, yeah?


I had one of my workers come by yesterday.
He laid out most of the items, he knew almost every harness and part,
I was very impressed.
He is really into doing this conversion and was ready to get started ASAP.
I might be willing to take a week at Christmas and do this, just not 100% sure yet.
I am a little scared to tackle it.
OK, I think that is all for now.
BTW, if I do this, I would be willing to post up the progress if you guys want.

Thanks Bryan

[seabob4]

Alright, Bryan, here we go...

1) Should we disconnect the oil injection system and run 50 to 1?
Personally, I wouldn't do that on Fichts.  The fuel delivery is VERY precise, I would want the "system" to do it's job in relation to that.
2) Where can I purchase the motor lifting tool for the flywheel?
Do you have the flywheel where the lift ring threads into the center, or is it the type with 3 bolts that thread in surrounding the flywheel nut?
3) Where can I purchase a transom template?
The pattern is the ages old BIA pattern, you can see it here under images...https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&gl= ... -Gs_I7w2Ak  I would make my own.


6) Bob, if you could, some pointers to do this. Maybe a wiring color chart?
I am a little confused about the rigging tube, should I have 2 on the same side, yeah?
Bryan, are you talking about the rigging tubes going out to the motors?  If so, IIRC, both rigging tubes were located to the starboard side of center.


Now, as far as wire colors, no need to worry about that at the engine end, it's all plug and play.  4 Deutsch connectors on the engine harness, a 2-pin Deutsch on the oil tank harness.  Under the helm is also very simple, 6-pin going to the key switch, 6-pin going to SystemCheck, 3-pin for TNT, I think that's it as far as connectors.  Coming out of the harness you'll also have purple, black, gray, and tan...ign, grnd, tach sender, trim sender.

[icemanbryan]

Thanks Bob, I appreciate it.

Friends were saying to disconnect the oil system, I didn't know, I would rather leave hooked up.

Looks like the 3 bolts that are around the gland nut? on the flywheel.

For the BIA pattern, make it out of wood?
What size hole would you drill?

As far as the rigging tubes, I only see one, not two.
I will look again, should be the same size diameter, yeah?

Yes, on the wires, mostly plug and play :).

I believe there is also a Blue wire as well? I will look again.

Thanks again,
Bryan

[seabob4]

Bryan, you mean the rigging tube running in the boat up to the helm.  Yes, only 1, we didn't add a second for twins.

I always drill 9/16" holes for my engine mounting bolts.  Use 1/2" bolts with lock-nuts, be sure to put anti-seize on the threads.  Or even a good bit of caulking.  Heat generated from tightening the bolts is what usually causes them to lock up.

Do not remember a separate blue wire at all.  Fichts use the exact same rigging as "normal" OMCs, nothing different.

Making the template out of wood, even cardboard, is fine.  You want it stay in place when you tape it up to the proper location when you mark the holes.  You are NOT going to be using it as a drill guide!  For that you need a steel plate with 9/16" bushings welded in place...

As far as the lift ring, I would visit my local BRP dealer.  Betcha they have a bunch laying around that they would either let you borrow one, or rent one to you cheap.  If they don't, they're a$$holes...

[icemanbryan]

Bryan, you mean the rigging tube running in the boat up to the helm.  Yes, only 1, we didn't add a second for twins.

I always drill 9/16" holes for my engine mounting bolts.  Use 1/2" bolts with lock-nuts, be sure to put anti-seize on the threads.  Or even a good bit of caulking.  Heat generated from tightening the bolts is what usually causes them to lock up.

Do not remember a separate blue wire at all.  Fichts use the exact same rigging as "normal" OMCs, nothing different.

Making the template out of wood, even cardboard, is fine.  You want it stay in place when you tape it up to the proper location when you mark the holes.  You are NOT going to be using it as a drill guide!  For that you need a steel plate with 9/16" bushings welded in place...

As far as the lift ring, I would visit my local BRP dealer.  Betcha they have a bunch laying around that they would either let you borrow one, or rent one to you cheap.  If they don't, they're a$$holes...

Oh, yes. They are real a$$holes.
I will check them out though.
So, in pulling the new harness's through, is there method on what to do first?
Throttle cables or, wiring harness, do it all at the same time?
Just have some questions running in my mind.
We may attempt this over the Christmas Holiday time.
We are figuring about a week?
Not sure on the actual time, I wanted to order up whatever I needed or need to replace.
I would rather have too much than not enough in materials and parts needed.
If I buy some tools or parts, you are welcomed to them after the install.
Thanks very much Bob, I appreciate it.

[seabob4]

Ahhh, grasshopper, much to teach...  

No, J/K Bryan!  And in between football, we shall learn.  With your old rigging, pull everything out except the cables.  Pull from the helm, it's much easier with Yam stuff, as the engine harness only has a single plug at the engine end.  Once the harnessing is removed, use 1 cable to pull the starboard engine rigging through, the other cable to pull the port. Once again, pull from the helm.  You can pull the harness and cable at the same time, just fold back the various plugs at the engine end so as to make the "bundle" as stream-lined as possible.  They'll all pull through fine, but you'll have to remove the pie at the helm to reach in, grab them, and guide them up to the oval cut-out inside the console.

Make sure to mark each harness and each cable as to what is what.  Green and red nail polish is excellent for this.  With the cables, what I do is 1 red stripe for port shift, 2 red stripes for port throttle.  Same on the starboard cables except the stripes are green.

You won't need any special tools, a 3" hole saw for your second rigging port out the transom, that's about it.  Oil tanks are gonna be fun for your mechanic...better him than me, he's gonna be in there aways!  But all in all, a pretty easy install.  You guys should be able to do the install over a week with plenty of time to spare...and enjoy cervesas!!  I'll be around...

[icemanbryan]

Ahhh, grasshopper, much to teach...  

No, J/K Bryan!  And in between football, we shall learn.  With your old rigging, pull everything out except the cables.  Pull from the helm, it's much easier with Yam stuff, as the engine harness only has a single plug at the engine end.  Once the harnessing is removed, use 1 cable to pull the starboard engine rigging through, the other cable to pull the port. Once again, pull from the helm.  You can pull the harness and cable at the same time, just fold back the various plugs at the engine end so as to make the "bundle" as stream-lined as possible.  They'll all pull through fine, but you'll have to remove the pie at the helm to reach in, grab them, and guide them up to the oval cut-out inside the console.

Make sure to mark each harness and each cable as to what is what.  Green and red nail polish is excellent for this.  With the cables, what I do is 1 red stripe for port shift, 2 red stripes for port throttle.  Same on the starboard cables except the stripes are green.

You won't need any special tools, a 3" hole saw for your second rigging port out the transom, that's about it.  Oil tanks are gonna be fun for your mechanic...better him than me, he's gonna be in there aways!  But all in all, a pretty easy install.  You guys should be able to do the install over a week with plenty of time to spare...and enjoy cervesas!!  I'll be around...

See, I knew you would have it down.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I guess t his would be the time for the new panel as well, yeah?

[seabob4]

Yep.  2 tachs, 2 voltmeters, 2 WP gauges, and your fuel gauge.  That's all you need, unless you really want trim gauges.  Might want to design it so you can add in a Floscan Twinscan fuel flow gauge, same size as your tachs...

[Capt. Bob]

Where can I purchase the motor lifting tool for the flywheel?Thanks Bryan

This is what I used to install my 96 200 Evinrude.

[seabob4]

Simple is good, Bob...

[icemanbryan]

Awesome Capt Bob.
I will PU some hardened bolts the right thread size.
Chain is on hand.
If I end up doing the install, we will use a cherry picker.
I figured much easier for the install

[slvrlng]

The Fichts have a 5 bolt flywheel and no center hole if I remember correctly. This is the reason we used the straps to lift as I had the OEM BRP 3 bolt lift ring I borrowed from a friend. We could not make it match the bolt pattern.

[icemanbryan]

I will look again, I thought I saw 3 holes
I could still do the bolts and chain with 5 holes

Bob, I was also thinking maybe time for a new switch panel.
If it is all apart and we are rewiring anyway?

[icemanbryan]

Yep.  2 tachs, 2 voltmeters, 2 WP gauges, and your fuel gauge.  That's all you need, unless you really want trim gauges.  Might want to design it so you can add in a Floscan Twinscan fuel flow gauge, same size as your tachs...

I don't see a need for trim?
I will read about the floscan gauge.

[Double Trouble]

Bryan the Floscan twinscan is a great addition once you have one you wont want to be without it again also if you are doing new tachs get the twin tach that Floscan puts out it ties together with the twin scan and makes a nice setup.

I dont have a picture after I put in the tach but here is the twinscan