Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: northfork on January 25, 2015, 09:21:53 PM
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Well here we go. finally found what what is looking for. 1977 boat in ok shape. not to far away (200 miles) and priced good. Started to take apart andf think I have a plan as to how I want it to come out. I tried to up load picks not sure how that part works yet.
As of today pulled the deck, tank and all foam. Cleaned up alot of interior of the hull and cut out a template fornthe transome.
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Congrats on the find.
Spend a few minutes looking at the instructions posted here to learn how to post pics. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/TRANSOME_TEMP_FOR_BLUEWATER_26.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11374&title=transome-temp-for-bluewater-26&cat=735)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/TRANSOME.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11371&title=transome&cat=735)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom_glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12350&title=transom-glassed&cat=500)
Glassed in the first two layers on the transom over melamine on the outside skin.
ADMIN EDIT: I fixed your pic for you
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Nice looking work :great02:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/transom_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12383&title=transom-2&cat=735)
Two layers of mat and 1708
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/transom_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12382&title=transom-1&cat=735)
Not to bad in the corners.
Question: How many layers of 1708 should I do before the core?
Thanks for any feedback
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Nice work :thumright:
How thick is the old transom skin? You'll want to bring the top area up to the same thickness (make the inside of the transom all flat) before adding your coring. I would do 3 layers of 1708 with 4, 8 and 12" overlap. Seems to be the norm that I see here and what I did with mine.
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Are you tabbing or running a full sheet of 1708 as the tab.
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Que Pasa
I'm doing both. Tab then full layer of 1708 that also overlaps the tab.
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You got some glassing skills, Sir! :salut2:
Do you mind posting a quick drawing of your lamination schedule? I am not understanding what your're plan is....
Also, I left a reply to your PL question over on my thread.
Thanks! :salut2:
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Sweet North I figured that's the easiest way. Will you wrap the core or just glass after your glue to the outer skin sets up.
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Que. I have 1 1/2" Cosa for the transom. I will do a layer of glass then bond to my skin. Which is done now. I am going to try to do that this weekend. Hey its going to be fathers day we should be able to work on our boats if we want. We will see how that goes.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/outside_face.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12409&title=outside-face&cat=735)
outer face of transom
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/4th_layer_of_1707.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12407&title=4th-layer-of-1707&cat=735)
four layers of 1708 with mat between each
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Looks good.
You can save your self some materials in the future, 1708 has mat sewn onto one side. That should be the side you mate to the cloth side on the previous.
If you're using 1708-DB (I think that is the part #) where it has no matt, disregard.
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I am using 1708 with mat sewn in. I was just using the extra layer of mat between to help with the bond. It really smoooths over all small imperfections.
Thanks
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One of the tips Eugene Sun gave me was to always use a layer of mat between new 1708 and old/cured fiberglass, as it does improve the bond strength as north said. I'm not sure it's necessary between successive layers of 1708, especially if they are added wet-on-wet, but they can't hurt. Looking good, north!
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Nice work North.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/Inside_face_of_transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12445&title=inside-face-of-transom&cat=735)
The top edge of the skin cut.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/bluewater_bonded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12446&title=bluewater-bonded&cat=735)
Blue water bonded to skin
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/outside_face_of_transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12447&title=outside-face-of-transom&cat=735)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/top_edge_of_transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12448&title=top-edge-of-transom&cat=735)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/transom_crown.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12449&title=transom-crown&cat=735)
transom crown. I'm happy with the curve.
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Nice job :nSalute:
What does the Bluewater weigh? Looks beefy.
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The skin cut looks super clean, how did you cut the radius.
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Rick
It is probably less than two sheets of 3/4" plywood. It is some cool stuff. Cuts nice and easy and seems super strong.
Chuck
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Que
The radius cut can easily be done with a circular saw. Mark a sharp line and take your time. That how I cut the 1 1/2" thick transom as well. It is not a tight radius.
I will let you know the ht of the crown tonight.
Chuck
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Looks great!
Mighty fine work Chuck. :thumleft:
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Thanks Carl
I am figuring things out as I go. Any suggestions are more then welcome.
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Took all the bolts and bracing off last night. The transom feels so solid with the Coosa even without knees. That stuff is really cool.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/bolts_out.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12464&title=bolts-out&cat=500)
time to clean the shop
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/filet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12478&title=filet&cat=735)
fillets done. a little sanding then some glass on the transom.
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Looks good.
Going forward, if you can work it out where you spread the fillets, let them start to cure enough that you won't push them out of place but they're still "green", then lay your tabs wet on wet over them, it'll save you the sanding in between. I learned that the hard way too.
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Rick
I started to do that. I spent to much time working the fillets and they were kicking off. I had to many rough spots to lay over at that point. I thought better to take my time and sand then tab. Whats a couple of hours sanding at this point.
Chuck
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Been there done that :73: Just scruff it up with a grinder.
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Coming along nicely Chuck. I got my core cut today, now waiting on my cloth from gulfstream to show up on Friday. On Monday I should be glassing the skin and two pieces of core together.
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Sounds good. Good luck glassing. That's when it feels like you are starting to move forward. I checked out Gulfstreams prices on line and they look very competitive. Make sure you post some pictures. I tabbed my core in last night with two layers of 1708 over a layer of mat. It amazes me how strong the transom feels even without knees or the deck being glass to the stern.
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Yea that skin is pretty flimsy, amazing how week the sides get without that transom core.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/TWO_LAYERS_OF_1708.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12526&title=two-layers-of-1708&cat=735)
First layer of mat and two layers of 1708
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/TRNASON_TAB.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12525&title=trnason-tab&cat=735)
corners tabbed in with three layers of 1708
4" then 6" the 10"
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That baby's not going anywhere now. :thumleft:
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Yes Rick it really feels solid. I'm planning on doing another layer of 1708 across the face and move on to the next phase. Any thoughts on what guys have done as far as number of layers of glass when using coosa as a core. I'm not sure the extra glass is doing anything strength wise. I just wanted a good base to tie the knees and deck to.
Chuck
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I think you're ready to go to the next step without adding any more cloth. You'll be adding more cloth when you add the knees. Looking real good.
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North when you did your skin how did you tab it. How were you able to tab it and then keep it flat to attach the core. I have build up after tabbing that I nedd to get flat.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/port_side_hull1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12614&title=port-side-hull1&cat=735)
Added a layer of mat and 2 layers of 1708 (port side)
Added additional layers where bulkheads will go
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/bulkhead_location.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12612&title=bulkhead-location&cat=735)
Then chilled with the dog on the Mako
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/dog_day_on_the_mako.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12613&title=dog-day-on-the-mako&cat=735)
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Nice clean work :thumleft:
Cute pup.
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North how high you thinking of raising the deck?
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I am going up 1 1/2".
Your project looks good. It looks like you didn't remove your deck yet or is that just how it looked in the picture.
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I left the deck in tact for support. Once the transom is done I'll probably do the cap, deck will be last. I stalled out a little due to the rain, but I plan on getting the core in by the weekend.
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Any progress?
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I have been adding glass to the inside of the hull. I made up my templates for the bulkheads and have to pull the trigger soon on a fuel tank.
Not much fun glassing with 90 degree temps. Now I know how the Fla guys feel.
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Don't leave ya much time does it.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/hull_glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12735&title=hull-glassed&cat=735)
Finished glassing the rest of the hull interior. On to the knees and bulkheads.
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Nice progress :thumleft:
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how was your foam?
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Foam is all dry. I drilled a few holes at the base of each stringer and all was dry. I am still thinking about removing the old foam. The stringers are in great shape and not sure if I will. I am working on the knees this weekend. I have some Coosa left over from the transom. Are you ordering your foam and other supplies or do you have a locale place to pick up? Have fun grinding this weekend.
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Cap is all ground out and ready for glassing. I went out and purchased some Divinycell for the core. Also got a price on the corecell for my floor. One step at a time. The cap wasn't to bad to grind, got it done in an hour and a half.
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Placed order for fuel tank today. Should be ready in two weeks. I added 12" in length to the original.
Anybody have a 22-2 re-build or in the process in the Punta Gorda, Fla area. I'm going to be there at the end of the month
and would like to see what other guys have done.
Chuck
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/NEW_TANK1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12890&title=new-tank1&cat=735)
Picked up new tank and had to see what it would look like.
Slow going at the end of the summer.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/PORT_KNEE_GLASSED.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13028&title=port-knee-glassed&cat=735)
Knees all tabbed in and port side is complete.
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Nice :thumleft:
Are the knees tied into the stringers going forward? Hard to tell if you lam'd some cloth onto the knees and main parts of the stringers a ways up the stringers. I think the goal is to make everything "one" - the transom is part of the hull sides, bottom and the stringers. When you put pressure on the transom, as in nail the throttle, you want everything tied together to be part of the push. If you put knees in, make them all part of the transom, bottom and stringers.
My $.02 (Of course I have been known for "overkill" :wink: )
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Looks good North and listen to Rick I think he's on it. Tie it all together. :salut2:
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Yes knees extend into the stringer and all tied together. As I raise the top of the stringer that will be built into the knees as well.
The floor deck will probably add the most support when all is said and done. Deck to stinger and fully engaged the transom and knees. The way the boat was built originally the stringers stepped down at the transom so most support can from floor deck. We are all doing overkill it seems. Which is good.
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What will you use on top of the stringers?
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I'm going to use 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood and wrap with glass.
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No wood for me, I'll use some type of composite.
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I measured and if I lay my floor 3/4 " above my original floor it leaves a 2" inch gap between the stringer top and bottom of the floor. :confused1:
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I'd say you had a lot of bonding putty on the top of the stringers :c029:
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It was over a half inch in spots.
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When I removed my old deck I had some areas that had 1/2" of bonding putty on top of the stringers. That stuff was crazy hard to remove.
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Yeah I went through about 3 grinding disc's. Have you measured how far your finished floor will be from the stringer tops. Mine is over 2 inches in spots!
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I have around 2" in some spots. I'm raising the top of the stringers to make up the difference and to reduce the amount of bonding material.
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North, have you figured out your cradle for your gas tank yet? And will you be adding extra glass out board of your stringers. Just trying to get a feel of what others are doing. I keep going back and forth in my head of whether to mold the bulkheads like the stringers or just use coosa and glass it in.
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Que
I added 3 layers of 1708 across the entire inner hull and up the side of the existing stringers. I went up the hull sides as far as I could. I cut my bulkheads out of 1 1/2 Coosa. I have them all cut and shaped
but not glassed in yet. I'm doing bulkheads at 4' on center to pick up seams of floor deck. I did not start my tank coffin yet. I have a plan but I am going one step at a time. That's next after the bulkheads.
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Wow 3 layers, you're a gluten for punishment. I think two for me down the center and one outboard of the stringers, it feels like i'm building a battleship.
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Battleships are a good thing :08:
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North being that you left the original stringers in, have you given any thought to the centering of your fuel tank? I know my stringers are not centered in the boat, I'm concerned with my placement. I would hate to have done all this work and have the boat lean one way or another. :a102:
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My stringers are as close to centered as you could get. How much are yours off by.
I haven't been doing much on my boat lately.
Went out for opening day of scallop season yesterday and saw 2 old aquasport 22-2 converted into work boats.
We had a great day. Temps in mid 50's and light wind. 20 bushels by 12:30
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Sounds tasty. I had some scallops at a restaurant Saturday and these things were 2" across and 1.5" tall ::o:
Didn't know scallops came that big.
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You have that measurement for me.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/20151229_090951_resized.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13309&title=20151229-090951-resized&cat=735)
Transom cap skin out of the mold
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/20151229_091017_resized.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13310&title=20151229-091017-resized&cat=735)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/20151229_090940_resized.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13308&title=20151229-090940-resized&cat=735)
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Nice cap :thumleft:
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Thanks Rick
I'm happy with how it came out. I have to core it and trim it up but it fits great. Can't do to much over the winter due to temp's
and how long it takes to get the barn warm enough to glass.
Your boat looks great keep up the great work.
Happy New Year
Chuck
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Wow buddy nice work, looks great,. We need to chat about that mold. If you still have it keep it intact, I might need to use it if you don't mind. Pretty work!
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Spring must be in the air. Que is back from his long winter sleep.
The mold is still around and was easy to build.
Welcome back. A few more weeks of warm weather and I'm getting back after mine.
Chuck
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Still in the Jungle down here, but May 1 is my scheduled return date. Would you mind if I drove up and picked that mold up? Probably would save me some work.
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You can have it if you want. Its not perfect this is not going to be a show boat but its pretty good. I still have to use us to put the cap back in when I
core it to make sure it holds the shape. If you see it and want it is yours.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/first_deck_sheet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14708&title=first-deck-sheet&cat=735)
Raised the stringers 2" and got first piece of deck cut. Some progress.
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Nice feeling to stand on a floor again, I'd say.
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Yes Rick it felt great to get that first sheet down. Last night I got the aft sheet cut around the knees as well.
What do most guys do for glass on the deck.
I'm doing one layer of 1708 on the underside, the 1708 tab all joints.
Do most put down (2) layers of 1708 over entire deck the finish mat.
Im not sure the second layer of 1708 is needed.
Chuck
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3/4 ply? Just a finish cloth is all the bottom really needs. Make sure to put butt blocks under the seams! One layer of 1708 on top is plenty, can definitely do a lighter cloth there too but i like the abrasion resistance of the 1708... Put mat over that if youd like for fairing purposes, but id just as soon use fairing compound...
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Thanks Dirt
Yes it is 3/4" marine ply wood. I am using but blocks for the only seam that's not over a bulkhead.
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Has anyone thought about using low expansion closed cell foam between the liner and the hull sides.
I did a test area and liked the way it stiffened up the liner and hull side. We use this stuff all the time in home construction around windows.
Any thoughts good and bad.
Thanks
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Well I have to admit the idea has crossed my mind, especially in the forward cabin area of my WAC. My thoughts are not inclined to additional stiffing/strength but for sound deadening in the cabin area. The gap between the liner and hull on the port side is much greater and "rattles" a good bit with hull slap.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/735/20170812_173714.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16207&title=20170812-173714&cat=735)
Working on getting the deck down. I have the rear and 2 front sections tabbed in place.
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Progress, progress !
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How many layers of tabing are you doing on your floor
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I am doing 1 layer of 1708 tab and 1 layer of 1708 over entire floor. (overlaping seams)
I did a layer of CSM on the bottom of each piece also.
Suggestions are welcome