Transom Rebuild Time!

[DEFIANT]

After inspection of the transom on my 1983 222 CCP, it seems I need a new boat or transom. Since I can't affor a new boat I guess it's time to start a new project! The glass is cracked around the motor bolts, there is major flex in the transom when I raise and lower the outboard. I had to jack the motor up to replace the zincs since they were stuck into the fiberglass! :cry:

I am now doing research as to the best method of replacement. Should I cut the inside or outside and rebuild with coosa board. What about the chainsaw and fill up with Seacast method. Is it time to close in the stern and add a bracket for my 225 hp Suzuki!

I was looking at Wilson's pictures from his transom job and I am very impressed! That may be the way to go!

I did manage to replace my front deck back to the fuel tank a number of years ago so I guess I am able to do the transom.

I posted a picture of the Defiant in the Photo Gallery. As I do this repair I will post pictures of the progress.

Any suggestions or feedback is more than welcome!!

[Wilson]

Looks like you've got a classic case of transom rot.  Don't worry.  You are not alone.  

The bottom line on the rebuild, as you have likely already deduced, is that there are a million different ways to do it.  Ask 10 different people and you will end up with 10 different ways to do it.  

I, personally, wouldn't go with the Seacast system, but I have heard of plenty of people who are happy with it.  Seems pretty damn heavy to me, amongst other things.

I/we can help with whatever method you choose.  Just let us know any specific questions you may have.

[DEFIANT]

Thanks Wilson!

For Saturday morning I have lined up a hoist and some help to remove the motor.

The research I have done seems to lean towards removing the glass on the inside of the transom, but that sure involves removing alot of the deck area.

I think I can remove my transom mounted livewell and get access to a large area of the transom. I guess that's where I'll start and see where that leads me.

[Wilson]

Sounds good.  You cant remove the inside, the outside, or some of both.  I think it is easiest to remove the inside, just like you are thinking.  

Good idea to get it out and see what you got.

[DEFIANT]

I removed a large deck plate that surrounded the stern livewell. Now I know why my bilge pump ran alot when the well was full! There was a 5 inch crack where the well was against the transom allowing water to run into the bilge.

Looking through the rear deck plates it appears that some of the lamination attaching the stringers to the transom has come loose. I feel it will be necessary to remove the rest of the decking so I can access the fiberglass skin from the inside of the transom, then remove the rotted wood, repair the lamination etc. I do not know where the best place to start my cutting my deck will be! I want to make the reassebly as easy as possable!

I am not going to use Seacast. I am trying to find a local outlet for Coosa, I emailed the manufacturer and they said Annapolis, MD is the closest. That is 130 miles away!

Are there any other products similar to Coosa? It would be a shame to do this job and put plywood back in!

[Seadog]

Defiant - Nida-Core, Klegecell, Divinicell are other synthetic composites used for core materials.  

The only potentail problem with these is they are subject to compression forces: if you laminate these then drill a hole and run a bolt thru the hole, if you crank down hard on the nut if will compresss the material. You have to add a metal sleeve to line the hole for the bolt.

Don't know how similar they are to Coosa though. Coosa incorporates fiberglass strands into the material and the others don't.

Marine plywood is a great core material but as you know it will rot over time.

Best of luck! Keep us posted .

[DEFIANT]

Thanks Seadog!

Do you think those other composits would be a good choice for a transom?

Your comment about compression forces has me concerned. I have a 225 Suzuki on the stern, couldn't the power from the motor compress the transom core even if the attachment bolts were sleeved?

I am starting to lean toward using marine plywood. The transom did just fine with plywood for 20+ years. The cost of Coosa is a problem, (the two sheets needed, around $240. each), and it is not readily available.

[Seadog]

I know there are some manufacturers who use those composites in their transoms - I'll look around later and see if i can't find a link to some...

Plywood is a good choice - 20 years of service ain't bad.  I replaced my rotted  plywood core after 34 years of service - replaced  with Coosa just because they are close by. If Coosa wasn't close, I would have gone with  plywood for the transom - lots cheaper too.

I'm using klegecell for the floor, console and froward casting deck rebuild.

[Tim/GA]

Seadog, if you don't mind my asking- how much did the Klegcell run?  Was the glass layup the same and did the weight saving end up being significant?

The other concern I have is when attaching the leaning post, center console, etc.  How does the Klegcell hold up to the fasteners?  Thanks

[Seadog]

Tim/GA - I bought the klegecell from FGCI in St. Pete Fla about 6 months ago. I'll have to go look what I paid for it. It's not cheap! http://www.fgci.com/

Laminated klegecell will definately not hold screws but I have read about guys drilling holes and pouring in epoxy to make a base for the screws to get a bite.

I'm going to add some backing: either laminated coosa, oak or mahogany underneath the klegecell floor to hold the screws for the leaning post ect.

I'm in the middle of the rebuild right now so I don't know how much weight it saved. But a 4' X 8' 1/4" Klege weights a ton less than the same size marine ply.

[Seadog]

Nida-core

Marlago - nida core

mirage - nida core

Klegecell and Divinycell

Regulator Klegecell transom

Donzi - Divinycell

Dorado - Divinycell

Klegecell price 10/2004:

Diab 75 PL - 4 X 8 X 3/4" sheet - $125.50

Diab 60 PL - 4 X 8 X 1/4" sheet - $36.15

I save all the reciepts for everything I buy for the rebuild and put em in a shoe box and hide it in the back of the closet. Only bring it out for you guys!

[DEFIANT]

I cut the livewell out this weekend! It seems my problems are a result of the lamination between the stringers and the hull and transom has let go!

I checked the wood where I removed through transom bolts and fittings, the wood seems to be solid! I probed under the stringers and removed some soggy foam on the port side, the starboard side was dry!

I spent time grinding and removing woven roving that broke free.

What is the best way to insure a solid bond between the old glass and new?

[Seadog]

Like any laminating project, prep work is the key to a good bond.

What type of resin are you using?

Got any  pix?  They always help to see what you are up against.

[DEFIANT]

I took some pictures but didn't down load them yet. I will post them ASAP!

I think I'll use West System Epoxy, that is what I used when I replaced my front deck and I have a friend that can get it for me at a very good discount!

[DEFIANT]

Yesterday  I took the plunge! I cut the inside stern area out of the boat  and accessed the entire inside of the transom.  Then I peeled the glass from the transom wood. All of the wood was soaked and soft. Today I will continue to remove the wood, there are 3 layers of 1/2 inch plywood laminated together. It looks as if one sheet will come out in tact so I will have a template to use for the new transom.

I spoke with an oldtimer who has replaced many transoms over the years. He said marine plywood is a waste of money for this job, he has always used AC Exterior plywood, there are a few more knots but the glue is the same. Do any of you have thoughts on this?

I have been taking picture of the progress and will post them soon!