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Author Topic: 1987 170 Rebuild  (Read 3125 times)

August 29, 2021, 08:19:07 PM
Reply #60

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #60 on: August 29, 2021, 08:19:07 PM »
Thank you, that video was informative. Ill have some pictures tomorrow, but the transom core went in today. First I cut the template out of a 1.5in piece of foam insulation board, then traced it onto the Coosa. Sanded it to fit and cut out a matching sheet of 1708, roughed up all the surfaces and wetted it all out with ample amounts of epoxy. Put the board in and clamped it all down, its all curing now.

August 30, 2021, 06:30:03 AM
Reply #61

RickK

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #61 on: August 30, 2021, 06:30:03 AM »
Nice - good job  :08:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 30, 2021, 02:56:11 PM
Reply #62

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #62 on: August 30, 2021, 02:56:11 PM »
A couple pics from yesterday:








August 30, 2021, 03:16:13 PM
Reply #63

RickK

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #63 on: August 30, 2021, 03:16:13 PM »
Looks good.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 30, 2021, 05:54:34 PM
Reply #64

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #64 on: August 30, 2021, 05:54:34 PM »
Im thinking the next step is to add 3 more layers of glass to sandwich the core in. Ill probably do the same hull overlap of 4, 8 and 12in.

Thinking it may be easiest to cut long strips about 6-8in wide to curl over the top of the transom, obviously open to suggestions on that.

Once the transom is sandwiched in, ill likely be looking to cut the remaining deck out,then pop out the liner

August 30, 2021, 07:23:58 PM
Reply #65

RickK

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #65 on: August 30, 2021, 07:23:58 PM »
I would vacuum everything where the new glass will go - looks like you've already scruffed it all down.
Are you laying a board across the top to hold the glass you're flipping into the boat? If so, you'll have a lot of loss due to the cutout that can just be rolled over the top of the transom - I would round off the inner edge so the 1708 can roll easier over it. Rolling 1708 is tough without air gaps.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 30, 2021, 08:55:09 PM
Reply #66

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #66 on: August 30, 2021, 08:55:09 PM »
The inside of the hull is filled with dust, and definitely needs a good cleaning. I left the core just an 1/8 or so proud of the outside transom skin, thinking i could sand it and make an easier radius for the glass. In my head i thought it would be easier to curl a smaller dedicated strip over the top, as opposed to part of a much larger section. Though the reality is its likely not much different.

September 08, 2021, 05:26:31 PM
Reply #67

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #67 on: September 08, 2021, 05:26:31 PM »
Laminated 3 layers of 1708 to the inside of the transom yesterday, still need to trim off some of the excess. I sanded (rounded) the edges of my coosa to make a smoother transition for the glass over the top of the transom and it worked out pretty well. Now that ive got some more glass experience under my belt ive noticed a few areas on the outside skin of the transom that im not thrilled with. Specifically, theres a couple spots that appear to be starved for resin. The 1708 seems to want to soak up alot more than i had first anticipated with my earlier attempt. Im assuming i can just simply grid it back, and build it back up again with new glass and resin. Any reason why that wouldnt work?




September 08, 2021, 07:28:35 PM
Reply #68

RickK

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #68 on: September 08, 2021, 07:28:35 PM »
Looks good buddy. Post a pic of the starved area - it may not be worth messing with. You've got 3 layers of glass, core troweled to the new transom glass and now the 3 layers inside - all tying the hull sides and the hull bottom to the core. Unless it is a huge bubble I wouldn't worry about it.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

September 09, 2021, 08:51:45 AM
Reply #69

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #69 on: September 09, 2021, 08:51:45 AM »
May be be hard to get a good pic, but Im not terribly concerned about it structurally. More like its something that's going to bug me. Also, I'm planning to add another layer of glass to the exterior of the transom skin anyway, as the transition between the new skin, and the original isn't as seamless as Id like. Game plan was to grind the transition to my liking and wrap a new layer of glass. Here in the Northeast my glassing days are starting to run thin, so figured if I want to tackle it, now may be the time.

September 09, 2021, 11:47:33 AM
Reply #70

RickK

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #70 on: September 09, 2021, 11:47:33 AM »
Are you talking about where the new glass meets the edge of the lip you left? You could just "fair" it in with a self mixed filler - epoxy, chopped fibers or wood flour and some micro balloons and/or cabosil. Cabosil by itself can get brittle so mixing it with other stuff helps. The micro balloons are easier to sand down. Other members can give you their secret blend for fairing.
One of the reasons for cutting out the exterior glass of the transom and running new glass from the inside was so you don't have to go through all the fairing that would be required if you replaced the glass from outside. Doing a little fairing as needed to fill that area where the old/new join should be much easier.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

September 10, 2021, 11:19:58 AM
Reply #71

Tampa Bay Mike

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #71 on: September 10, 2021, 11:19:58 AM »
You've got a lot done recently. Nice work! Like Rick said, if it's not a huge area I wouldn't be too concerned with it. When I did mine I ran out of epoxy on the last layer and ended up with some dry patches too. Although I did three layers to fill in the cutout, then three full layers outside, 1 1/2" coosa, and then three full layers inside so technically it was layer nine that was a little dry. Once you fair it and then paint or gelcoat it you'll never know

October 19, 2021, 08:35:05 AM
Reply #72

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #72 on: October 19, 2021, 08:35:05 AM »
Sorry for the lack of updates but not much interesting has happened since. I was gone for a week or so on a fishing trip, and the only progress made on the boat has been cutting out the old deck.

Now that the cold weather is beginning to settle in, I'm unsure if any more glass work is realistic for me. Progress will unfortunately be slow over the winter months, as the boat is outdoors and that will limit my ability to work on it. In all likelihood i will be covering it with a tented tarp in the next few weeks to prevent a snow load.

Ive found a place locally to buy Nidacore panels which i hope to use for the new deck. Thinking Ill be going with 1in thick panels for the deck. If anyone has suggestions on what other parts of this I can tackle while shes wrapped up for the winter Im all ears...

November 12, 2021, 01:26:17 PM
Reply #73

larsli68

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #73 on: November 12, 2021, 01:26:17 PM »
Your work looks great!

//Lars

March 20, 2022, 04:54:14 PM
Reply #74

AquasportEd

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Re: 1987 170 Rebuild
« Reply #74 on: March 20, 2022, 04:54:14 PM »
Time to revive this thread from the dead.....

Spring has sprung here in the Northeast, and today the tarp came off the boat. I rolled up my sleeves, grabbed some pry bars and pulled out a large section of the deck that i had started to remove months ago. After some cussing the deck popped off. I didnt do too much inspecting, but at first glance things appear to be in fairly good shape as far as the condition of the stringers go. Thinking its time to order my replacement decking, Ill be going with a 1in honeycomb core. Had a couple thoughts if anyone cares to chime in; Im assuming i can just remove the rub rail, then unscrew the liner and just pop it off. Any issue with doing that (flexing hull?)? Also, youll see in one of my pictures that the deck didnt sit directly on top of the stringers. Instead there appeared to be a foam that sits atop the stringers to support the deck, is this normal?






 

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