Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild Log

[compcrasher86]

yea those are what I am looking at. I am going to get the biggest one which also = $$$$$ but it shouldnt be that bad with an employee discount. I will wait until I start work to buy any more parts.

[compcrasher86]

I just got a package today with 100 white LEDs from TopBrite in Hong Kong. It took six days and $17 but they also included 100 resistors for 12v free!. Now I can wire LEDs individually without having to wire them in series.

Following GoneFissions awesome tutorial in the resources thread, I made my own LED anchor light. I used his "2 sets of 3" technique to save space and I didnt have to use any resistors. Instead of soldering right to the bayonet socket, I clipped it out and put the  LEDs in a gatorade cap and attached wires. It works great and I'll take a pic tonight once it gets darker out. Heres a picture off it now (its not turned on because my phone camera cant show the difference during the day):


Next.... gunwale lighting, locker lighting, console shelf lighting, and maybe even a bilge light! its going to be an LED party!

Update: The sun is setting so it is a good time to test out the lights. The LED anchor light is a little bit dimmer than the incandescent version but I think it is perfect and plus, It uses a lot less energy and lasts forever.

Fairly bright

The lights in front of a beautiful sunset

Of course I took a picture without the anchor light in it :) If you want the full res picture you can pm me with an e-mail

[compcrasher86]

Oh and heres a pic of the new grabrail that I took last night. Sorry for the blur but cameraphones never do good in the dark:

[compcrasher86]

Just made 4 courtesy lights out of legos! go check out my tutorial under the resources section!

[compcrasher86]

Guys, I mounted the LED Lego lights today and I must say, they came out perfect. Heres a picture of the two I installed today under the gunwale:


im sorry its a bit blurry but its almost impossible to get good pics at night because flash would just wash out the Light.


I plan on putting at least 4 more under the gunwales. Maybe I will make the two under the bow cap area on a separate circuit so I can keep the back ones on without damaging my night vision with the front ones. After all, I did futureproof the job by using triplex wire instead of just duplex. :)

[compcrasher86]

Im seeing a rebuilt console in my head. I'm thinking:

1/4" Seafoam starboard
New temp gauge
12v socket
Separate ignition "Panel" with my status LED's built in (To prepare for a possible new BRP throttle/shifter)
A lot of new toggle switches or rocker switches (I'm undecided)
Stereo flush mounted somewhere in the dash (time to ditch the wood box)
Another Grab Rail
New hinges for the fold down seat on the front of the console (the old ones are broken off)
Maybe a windshield if the budget allows it

And for the inside...

A couple of my Lego LED's
A blue seas ground bus bar (10 screw)
A blue seas fuse box with cover and labels (6 fuse)
A 12 circuit wiring connector (For engine wiring harness and power trim)
A 10 circuit wiring connector (For al other positive loads).

It makes sense for me to wire the fuse box after the switches so that the switches can share a common positive so is there any problems with that?

Switches will be along the lines of:

Nav/Anchor Lights (DPDT) (Instrument lghts on with nav)
Deck Lights/Bow cap lights (DPDT)
Locker Lights & Console Lights (SPST)
Stereo (SPST)
Horn (Not installed yet) (Spring loaded SPST)
VHF (Not installed yet) (SPST)
Accessory 1 (12v socket) (SPST)
Accessory 2 (spare) (SPST)

If I ever find my in-dash VHF that i managed to lose somewhere in the house, I will ditch my handheld and install it but until then there will be a blank switch

As for the horn, I dont have one but may get one in the near future so might as well wire for it.

Bilge pump has its own separate panel so its all set...

I want to move the battery to the console and maybe add a second but I dont know if I want to spend the money on super expensive cable, battery selectors, and a new battery. Maybe someday... As my electrical load increases I see a new battery becoming necessary but it still works fine for now. I am curious of my ol' motors charging output because it seems to handle my stereo and lights with almost no visible difference on the voltmeter (Especially now that I've turned to LED's)


Alright time to get over insomnia and go to bed...

[Marcq]

Hey compcrasher86, found a tread that could be some help for your hull repair

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/015567.html

Marc..

[compcrasher86]

Oh wow that is one huge patch job. Thank you, I will probably start his tutorial somewhere in the middle (because I dont need to fill a hole). These resources are awesome

[compcrasher86]

Hey guys West Marine called me today and said my thru-hull was in so I picked it up. Because the vent shaft on the 22-2 is so shallow, I had to special order a backordered 90 degree thru-hull fitting. It is made by rule. I had to also buy a 1 1/8" stepdown adaptor to fit this 3/4" thru-hull but everything is attached now and it looks great


Here it is:



Here it is installed

[Capt. Bob]

Hey guys West Marine called me today and said my thru-hull was in so I picked it up. Because the vent shaft on the 22-2 is so shallow, I had to special order a backordered 90 degree thru-hull fitting. It is made by rule. I had to also buy a 1 1/8" stepdown adaptor to fit this 3/4" thru-hull but everything is attached now and it looks great

I'm not too familiar with your hull but why did you go to a 3/4" thru hull instead of a 1-1/8"?

Could you not mount the discharge higher if space was a concern? Any pics inside the hull of your install?
Just curious.

[compcrasher86]

Well, the funny thing about that...

As for placement, there is reallly only one place in a 22-2 (other than the bow) that you can conceal a thru-hull and that is in the hull's vent shaft port aft in the boat. In one of SJWiley's rebuild pics you get a nice view of that vent in the back. Even there you only have about 2-3 inches of depth to work with so a 90 degree thru-hull is necessary. If I tried to put it anywhere else, it would stick out into the cockpit and I wanted a nice clean look without hoses going everywhere. Plus, I only had to drill one small 3/4" hole and that was it. The hose threaded down right into the bilge area (with a little reaching)

Here is his picture and I will try and take a picture tomorrow when it is light out:


As for size, West Marine only sells the 90 degree thru-hulls in 2 sizes, and 3/4" is the biggest so I will just deal with a smaller opening and jet-like output. I'll just make sure I have my friend pull up next to me in his 15-7 Whaler and see where that water ends up  

[compcrasher86]

Turns out I did take a couple pics during the install of the thru-hull on my phone. Heres one that shows how shallow that vent shaft is (I took off the metal vent plate so you can see inside) . I ended up having 3/4 inch clearence when all was done. I have not tested the pump yet because I need my bilge to stay dry so I can repair the hull. maybe I will put it in a bucket of water tomarrow so I can see how far it jets out



hmmm 1100gph on a 3/4 inch hose should be interesting. Anybody know some math to see how far it will shoot?

[compcrasher86]

got some 60mph hurricane winds heading in. Because the boat is real close to the ocean, time to double chock the wheels and tie everything down. Hoping for the best...  :cry:

[strikeout]

good luck with hanna. my folks are in marlboro, sound asleep.  calm  here in tampa, just waiting for ike.

[compcrasher86]

inland is very nice and calm. My house is right on the ocean though so the winds are blowing full force. The boat seems steady but the occasional bursts of wind make the trailer rock a little bit on its suspension. Wheels are double chocked so I wont have a surprise launch of my boat in the middle of the night by ol' mother nature. I wanted to lower the wheel in the front all the way because then it would be much more steady but I need the boat to be tilted back a little bit for proper drainage (there is a downpour of rain here) With the wheel all the way down the trailer would be much more steady but I would rather it rock a little bit than risk flooding the hull and also wrecking weeks of drying time for the repair areas