Wiring for jackplate

[TikiDoc]

Hi guys,
I have a question for the rigging experts.  I am adding an ACR circuit and I am debating from which battery to feed the jackplate that raises and lowers the outboard.  My first thought is from the house battery, so as to preserve starting battery power at all times.  However, one could also argue that the position of the jackplate is mission critical to engine performance, and one wouldn't want a dead house battery, unable to take a charge, to prevent you from changing the position while running.  The jackplate requires high amperage, but runs for very short periods - a few seconds at a time.  Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

There seem to be pros and cons to each but with an ACR I don't think it will make much of a difference.

If you go with the starting battery, it should always be charged first and be protected from the accessories draining it. If you go with the house battery, worst case it won't raise if that one dies but you should still be able to start the motor which should in theory trigger the ACR to start charging it and you will eventually be able to adjust it.

When I rigged up mine, I hooked the porta bracket to the starting battery. With a newer four stroke, it never cranks for more than a second or two before it starts so I figured it should always have plenty of reserve for the bracket.

[RickK]

I wired mine to the starting battery. I might move it a couple times a trip but that is all. When I installed the JP I installed it so when the JP was all the way down, the engine anti-cav plate is at the bottom of the boat. So I really don't have to do much from there.  Then I raise it to tilt the engine up.  The ACR will still allow charging to both battery banks as long as the voltage requirements are met.

[Ulysses485]

Hi guys,
I have a question for the rigging experts.  I am adding an ACR circuit and I am debating from which battery to feed the jackplate that raises and lowers the outboard.  My first thought is from the house battery, so as to preserve starting battery power at all times.  However, one could also argue that the position of the jackplate is mission critical to engine performance, and one wouldn't want a dead house battery, unable to take a charge, to prevent you from changing the position while running.  The jackplate requires high amperage, but runs for very short periods - a few seconds at a time.  Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

I have spent more time than I’d like to admit attempting to design the perfect electrical system and quite frankly, I forgot the Porta bracket in my design so thank you for this topic.  Thankful I am not started with the build yet.

With that being said, I am of the opinion after numerous articles and hearing from electrical engineers (Pacific Yacht Systems on YouTube) that the ACR should in fact be best used with a dual circuit switch with emergency override. Keeping a starting battery and house battery isolated unless charging IMO is very important. If an ACR is used with the dual circuit switch (4 post add a battery from Blue Seas) it will always be isolated and the ACR will combine when starting battery sees over I believe 13.3 volts. All this doesn’t answer your question, but leads me to my question, how many amps does the Jack plate draw? Porta Brackets website doesn’t show this but assume it’s listed in their provided documents or on the side of your jack plate.

Typically starting batteries want to stay fully charged all the time but pack that punch for a starter. Not sure if a similar draw would come from the hydraulic pump motor but I would think so. Deep cycle house batteries can handle slow discharge but aren’t designed for the punch of a starter (hence their isolation being important). Yes hybrid deep cycle starting batteries do exist and I have family that have had them last 3-5 years. However, different battery technology should be isolated.

I think another question to ask would be, when are you using the Jack plate most (I don’t speak from experience as I’ve never owned one)...motor on or off? I would think one could get away from trimming with motor ON most of the time. I believe we should make it a habit to trim with motor on to prevent low voltage for protection of hydraulic motor.

With that said, I believe it best for large draw jack plate/ Porta bracket should be on a starting (high cranking amp battery bank).

Other items to consider:

1. It is assumed that a large amp draw exists from the Porta bracket.
2. If the jack plate / Porta bracket was installed on the house battery, it’s likely to be used mostly with a charging voltage. After a long docks at a sandbar, this could drain your house battery quite a bit assuming jams are going. This will slowly cause premature failure to equipment from large draws At low voltage.

Hope that makes sense.

Ulysses

[thill]

I believe it's similar to the tilt trim system of your motor.  Mine was connected to the starting battery with no issues.  It's not like you will be running it up and down constantly with the engine off.   Maybe raise or lower it before takeoff, but even then, probably after starting the engine. 

When I had mine, I never even thought about it.  It just worked.  Again, just like the tilt trim on the motor.   

Thinking it out beforehand is good, and thinking while you run accessories while on the water will help keep you out of trouble.

The house battery is for playing tunes, lights, accessories, etc. If that runs low, no big deal.   The starting batteries are for the engine, and getting back home.  The tilt trim and the porta bracket are part of the engine system, in my opinion.  Use them mostly while the engine is running, and you really shouldn't have a problem.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Copied from the installation instructions that Porta sent me. I ran 8ga wire and used a 65 amp Blue Seas Maxi fuse. So far no issues.

7.   Mount control switch to dash (use pump wiring diagram provided).     Connect pump solenoid:  BLUE to “UP” side of switch, and GREEN to “DOWN”.  Wires to battery: RED to POSITIVE, and BLACK to     NEGATIVE.  Wires to switch should be 14 GA or heavier.  Wires to     battery should be 10 GA or heavier.  If using a circuit breaker, use minimum 60 amps.