Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Center Console Professional (CCP) Rebuilds => 200 CCP Rebuilds => Topic started by: mshugg on April 22, 2016, 05:29:18 AM
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The Project Starts! I just got a 1979 20 CCP. with an eye toward a complete rebuild. She's had many owners, and each one left some scars. The boat is rough, but I hope to recapture some of that Aquasport magic. These pictures don't show how rough she is. I'll get more up soon. For some reason, I can't batch upload images, so i have to put them in 1 at a time.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Side_Bow_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13811&title=ccp-side&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Side_From_Stern_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13812&title=cc-side-from-stern-quarter&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom9.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13813&title=20-ccp-transom&cat=2)
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A Previous replaced the fuel tank hatch with a heavy piece of plastic. It looks like counter top material. The seat pedestals were the only mechanical connection.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Hatch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13814&title=tank-hatch&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Hatch_Removal.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13815&title=tank-hatch-removal&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Hatch_Removal_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13816&title=tank-hatch-removal-2&cat=2)
The top of the tank doesn't look too bad. The tank coffin had about 3 inches of water sitting in it, but no fuel. Tank dimensions were 72 long x 24 wide(trapezoidal so it's 20 at bottom) x 11 deep. I estimate it to be around 70 Gal.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Top.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13817&title=tank-top&cat=2)
The original, I assume, tank lid extends under the console.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Foward.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13818&title=tank-forward&cat=2)
Even though the tank doesn't look too bad, I'm expecting the worst when I remove and clean.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Fittings.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13819&title=tank-fittings&cat=2)
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Factory lists it at 73 gal (if original).
Water in the coffin is a tombstone. The hatch needs sealing to prevent that. I would be surprised if you don't find corrosion under the straps.
Good luck. :thumright:
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Thanks, Captain Bob. Yeah, I expect that the tank is toast. In fact based on the condition of some of the repairs, I expected worse. Previous owners have kept her going, but I don't think that here's even one repair that was done properly.
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Other than the coffin cover she doesn't look that rough at all!
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The transom is a mystery. It doesn't flex, but there are many problems. It has a row of holes on the starboard side that appear to be filled with silicone. I'm not sure if it will need to be replaced or not. I'll drill some exploratory holes to get a better idea of the core condition.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Holes.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13830&title=transom-holes&cat=2)
There was some accessory(transducer ?) installed here. PO removed it and painted over the screws.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Screws.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13829&title=transom-screws&cat=2)
The Boat has two bow eyes. It looks like the smaller eye is original and a second eye that is tied to a lifting eye was added later.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Eyes.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13831&title=bow-eyes&cat=2)
It appears that when the backing block at the stem rotted away, a previous owner added a layer of lightweight FG cloth and spray painted it black.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Lifting_Ring.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13832&title=lifting-ring&cat=2)
Here's what I found under the coffin box. There's a large rectangular cutout in addition to the access ports. All of these cuts are unsealed. Of course, the whole deck near the console is soft.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffen_Box_Cutout.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13833&title=coffin-box-cutout&cat=2)
The boat has the hidden compartment the rear has been cut away for access through the coffin cutout.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hidden_Compartment.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13834&title=hidden-compartment&cat=2)
A through hull transducer is installed forward of he console. It seams too far forward to me. I'll eventually install a tilted element transducer, but i doubt this will be the location. Looks like I have a hole to fill.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tranducer_Inside.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13835&title=transducer&cat=2)
The starboard battery wouldn't fit on the battery tray, so the previous owner left it sitting in a bird's nest of wires in the bilge.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Starboard_Battery.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13837&title=starboard-battery-box&cat=2)
Portside battery installation is more conventional.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_Battery.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13838&title=port-battery-box&cat=2)
The Trim n Tilt pump is mounted in the bait well.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Trim_Pump2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13839&title=trim-pump&cat=2)
I have big plans for the boat:
Rebuild Transom
Replace Deck
Inspect Stringers and ?
New Fuel Tank (55 Gal should be good with 150 four stroke)
Rebuild Console to include surface for flush-mount electronics
Relocate Batteries to Console
Rebuild and Insulate Coffin Box
Repower I'm thinking 150 Suzuki
Replace the Trailer
Thanks to all the other rebuilds on Classic Aquasport. Your rebuilds are an inspiration. I hope that my work is up to your standards. It's gonna be fun!
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Check out the new 200 CCP Ad I just uploaded to the gallery http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13825&title=200ccp-back-page&cat=543
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Thanks Rick. Cool drawing. It looks like the lifting ring was original. Not sure why someone added that smaller bow eye then. Oh well.
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Looks like you can add "rewire" to your list ;-)
Good luck - should be a fun project!
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Yeah, I should have listed rewire. I love the way PO used extension cords for some of the wire runs.
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My buddy (and a member here) used orange extension cord to rewire his trailer - "No water intrusion". He has the lights up on his guide poles. In this case I think he is onto something - no connections under water.
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Yeah, definitely agree that isolating wires from salt water is more important than price when it comes to wiring.
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Just a quick update:
I've been stripping hardware and wire. The console is stripped and ready to remove. I'm getting ready to pull the outboard.
I remove hardware from the transom, and drilled some exploratory holes. The core is definitely wet. Plus it offered no resistance to the drill. This is completly expected. I planned on rebuilding the transom. I love it when a plan comes together.
I have a question for those who have repowered. Is there any value in a 37 year old outboard? The PO kept it running, but it's rough. I'm trying to decide if it's worth trying to sell or not. If the decision is to scrap it, I can be quicker and dirtier with the removal.
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Scrap it your time is worth more
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The Hull is nearly stripped. All mechanicals except the engine have been removed. The wiring has been pulled. Console and Coffin Box are out of the boat, and I've ground out the splash well extension. Tomorrow, I hope to pull the outboard off the transom. Then the real surgery begins.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Splashwell_Deck_Off.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13852&title=slashwell-deck-removed&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Splashwell_Ground_Out_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13851&title=splashwell-removed&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_out_of_boat.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13853&title=console-removed&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Battleship.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13855&title=battleship&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Clean_Deck_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13854&title=open-deck&cat=2)
I did take a few pre demolition measurements, so if anyone else is contemplating rebuilding a 20 CCP, you can estimate materials.
The deck is 70" wide and 15'5" from anchor locker to stern boxes. 4 sheets of core will do the deck with plenty left for coring the gunnel caps and other stuff.
The front of the console is 85" aft of the anchor locker (excluding lip), and there is 74" from the rear of the console to the stern boxes.
Steering, shift and throttle cables are 15' long.
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Could you possibly measure the 'coordinates' of the forward hidden floor well? I'd like to put a hatch into mine, and my floor has no openings except the inspection port under the fish box. I'm hoping not to remove that.....
It would be very helpful to have the dimensions from the forward bulkhead (anchor locker door) to the forward and aft inner sides of the bulkheads that form the well. And some way to measure where the inner sides of that well are, measured in from some point also aft of the fwd bulkhead?
Thanks very much in advance!
--Kevin
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I'll get those measurements today.
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Kevin,
Got the measurements! The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead. The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front. The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it. Lots of room up there.
Best,
Michael
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The Demolition Continues. Fuel tank, coffin and hiden compartment have been removed along with the center deck. I'm holding off on cutting out the rest of the deck and transom until i do some work on the trailer bunks. I want the boat well supported before I remove too much structure.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Well_Removed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13972&title=tank-coffin-removed&cat=2)
It's amazing what gets lost in the bilge of a 37 year old boat. I found the remnants of 2 crescent wrenches, 2 screwdrivers, a roll of electrical tape, a buddy bearing bra and an anchor that has no place on a 20' boat. I'm still looking for the body of Jimmy Hoffa.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Lost_Junk.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13973&title=bilge-junk&cat=2)
I'm also tackling the console. I'm narrowing it 4" to make room for some console side rod holders. I'm also going to raise the top of the console to allow for flush mounting electronics.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Split_Console.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13974&title=split-console&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Joined.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13976&title=console-joined&cat=2)
Here's a mock up of the raised panel. After I get the Holes patched and everything reasonably fair, I'll make a mold for a console top extension and attach it. The console is quite thin and mostly choped strand, so i'll reenforce with 1708 and add core to key areas.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mock_Up_of_Flush_Mount_Panel.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13975&title=flush-panel-mock-up&cat=2)
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Kevin,
Got the measurements! The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead. The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front. The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it. Lots of room up there.
Best,
Michael
The actual measurements of the box, now that it is out of the boat, are 26" wide and 36" long. It is square when viewed from above and trapezoidal viewed for end or side. The dimensions at the bottom are 22" x 34". The depth is 12".
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Kevin,
Got the measurements! The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead. The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front. The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it. Lots of room up there.
Best,
Michael
Michael -
Thanks very much. This will be a big help on mine. Best luck on the rest of your restoration.
--Kevin
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Progress slowed a bit this week. I was out of town. Nevertheless, I am chipping away at the console. I built a mold for the extension on the top, sed Plasticine clay to form fillets, applied 5 layers of mould release wax, and laid it up with 2 layers 3/4 oz CSM and 2 layers 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mold_on_Console.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14080&title=mold-built-on-console&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mold_Laid_Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14081&title=lay-up-in-mold&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mold_Demolded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14082&title=new-console-top-out-of-mould&cat=2)
Here it is laying on top of the console for a trial fit. Next step will be to cut off the console top, fit the new section, feather the joint and tab with 1708. I still plan to modify the base to allow for built in rod holders and add a recessed toe kick. then comes a lot of fareing, prime and paint - all while continuing the demolition on the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mold_Trial_Fit_on_Console.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14083&title=trial-fit-on-console&cat=2)
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Nice extension :thumleft:
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I'm continuing the work on the console. I'm cutting the base to add back in the 4" that I removed from the center. 2 Inches each side will allow enough width for built in console rod holders while maintaining the same footprint.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Cut_Line.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14194&title=console-base-cut-line&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Cut_Base.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14195&title=console-base-cut-line&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Cut_Laid_Out.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14196&title=console-base-laid-open&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Test_Fit_Rod_Holders.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14197&title=console-test-fit-rod-holders&cat=2)
I Used some scrap glass and some divnycell core to re join the pieces prior to glassing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Tab_Core.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14198&title=consoe-tab-26amp-3b-core&cat=2)
Here it is joined with 3 Layers 1708 with 1 Layer CSM on top. I still have a lot of sanding fairing and finishing to go, but it seems to be working out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Base_Joined.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14199&title=console-base-joined&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Base.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14200&title=console-base&cat=2)
I got back to the boat today removing it from the trailer, so I could keep things square while I rebuild the deck and transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Removing_Trailer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14201&title=removing-trailer&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Trailer_Gone.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14202&title=trailer-gone&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Blocks_Stands.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14203&title=blocks-26amp-3b-stands&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Blocks_Stands_Transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14204&title=blocks-26amp-3b-stands&cat=2)
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The remnants of TS Collin, made it sweaty work, but I cut out the rest of the deck and removed the floatation foam today. With two exceptions, the stringers are solid. About 22" inches of the port stern stringer is broken, and there's about a 6" section of the taping starboard bow stringer that looks like it was not properly wetted out. All in all, I feel pretty good, since I'll need to remove most of the break at the stern in order to access the transom. When I glass it back in it will be solid, and when i rehab the section at the bow, it will be better than new.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Removal.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14207&title=foam-removal&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Removal_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14208&title=foam-removal-2&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Removed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14209&title=foam-removed&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Removed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14210&title=foam-removed-2&cat=2)
Here's the split in the starboard bow tabbing. The roving is completely dry. It looks like it was never wetted out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Delam_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14212&title=stringer-delam-starboard-bow&cat=2)
Here's a view of the port stringer. There's about a 22" split where the stringer let go of the hull. I'll be cutting most of this away when I repair the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Delam_Port_Stern.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14213&title=stringer-delam-port-stern&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Delam_Port_stern_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14214&title=stringer-delam-port-stern-2&cat=2)
I remember reading in someone's rebuild post that they found tubes of roving stuffed under the deck. My boat had them. They were symmetrically placed with two near the bow and 2 near the stern. I can't figure out what purpose they served, but they don't look like a mistake.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mystery_Roving.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14211&title=mystery-roving&cat=2)
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Today was a good day. I removed the transom boxes in order to access the transom. The boxes came out unscathed, so I'll be able to reattach them when the transom is done.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Cut_Line.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14223&title=transom-cut-line&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stern_Box_Cut.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14222&title=stern-box-cut&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stern_Box_Removal.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14224&title=stern-box-removal&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stern_Boxes_Out.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14225&title=stern-boxes-out&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Starboard_Transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14226&title=starboard-transom&cat=2)
Here's a view of the original transom laminate under the cap. It looks like a layer of 1/2" and a layer of 3/4" ply with thin skins.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Laminate.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14227&title=transom-laminate&cat=2)
With the liner it looks beefier, about 1 3/4" total.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Thickness_With_Liner.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14229&title=hull-reenforcement-at-deck-seam&cat=500)
Interesting, there's a strip of 1/4 ply at the hull/deck seam. I'm sure it doesn't do much.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Reenforcement_at_Deck_Seam.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14228&title=hull-reenforcement-at-deck-seam&cat=500)
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I spent about 4 hours today taking a saw to the transom and stringers as well as digging out the wet transom core. Most of it was wet with a areas of rot. Still more digging and lots of grinding to do. Still, it's progress. The stringer foam was almost completely dry. The hull was just a slighty wet under the foam, but the foam is dry. Is it possible that I won't need to dig all that foam out?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Demo_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14245&title=transom-demo-2&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Demo.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14244&title=transom-demo&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringers2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14255&title=stringers&cat=2)
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Let me catch up with you - first thing I want to say you do some superb work :nSalute:
The console is looking great and the idea to shrink the overall width and widen the base for rod holders is awesome.
The setup for blocking the hull is cool and it looks like you've thought it all through to include the steps that will save you climbing into the boat a thousand times. What is the metal frame/rack from?
What you found in the transom looks typical. Have you decided on the style of transom you're going to end up with? You can make it any thickness you want.
I think the rolls or tubing that you found are used for lifting points when they pull the deck/liner from the mold. I had some real short ones on my 170 in the front under my casting deck and I may have had them in the aft but cut them out on my first re-decking 16 years ago.
If the foam is dry then I think you're good - it'll save you a lot of work. Make sure the stringers are attached to the hull well all along the bottom.
Keep up the great progress - your craftsmanship so far points to ending up with a grand boat when you're done.
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Rick,
Thanks for the kind words. I'm having fun with the build. I considered buying a console, but decided that I could update the AS console to give it contemporary fishability while keeping the feel of the classic.
The rack is a boat lift system. It's similar to this one: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=59042
I was shopping for boat stands on Craigslist, and someone had the lift system with 4 boat stands for not much more than the cost of stands alone. I bit, and the system works well. Even though the hull is well blocked, it's on sandy ground so I'm keeping the lift in place for additional insurance. I've got 24x24 plywood under all blocks and stands to distribute the load too.
I considered going with a full transom with an Armstrong bracket, but came to the conclusion that a 20' boat is marginal for a bracket. I'll be going with a standard 25" transom and reattaching the AS transom storage boxes. I'll probably add a fold up wave gate or even a Conch style shroud if it would scale right to the boat.
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Blue agave has a 30" setback Armstrong bracket with swim platform on his 19'6" and it is a sweet set up. Look at the pics of his recent repower. If I kept my 200xf (same hull as your ccp) that's the route I would have went.
Great work so far!
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I'm making progress. The transom is down to clean glass. I just need to finish grinding out the excess roving and putty in the corners, and it will be time for the new transom. I'm going with 2 layers of 3/4 28lb Carbon Core (similar to Coosa). Finished thickness should be just at or over 2". I've also decided to go with a full transom and the Armstrong wide body bracket. Thanks to Wingtime & Blue Agave for the feedback. I think this will be a good choice for the way I intend to use the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom_down_to_glass.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14313&title=transom-down-to-glass&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_down_to_glass_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14314&title=transom-down-to-glass-2&cat=2)
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Well on your way now! I have the wide body bracket and I'm very happy with the bracket. I recommend the full 72" dive platform and ladder mount.
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Since I'm going with the full transom with bracket, I decided to fill in the cutout in the outer skin prior to fitting and installing the core. I hope this requires less fairing for the outside of the transom. My plan is to add 2 layers of 1708 to the rear skin. 2 x 3/4 carbon core 28LB core and finish with three layers of 1708 for the inside skin. Does this sound reasonable? I'm using Raka Epoxy.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transome_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14351&title=transom-skin-mold&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Skin_Outside.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14352&title=transom-skin-outside&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Skin.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14353&title=transom-skin-inside&cat=2)
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Looks good. I think I would have added a couple layers of 1708 across the entire transom though - you should beef it up before coring it.
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Yeah, Rick, plan is 2 layers 1708, then core then three more 1708. Does that sound right? This was just to fill cut out.
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Sounds good. :thumleft:
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I would do 4 layers of 1708 on the inside with at least a 12" overlap on the sides and bottom for a good tie in. 4 layers will give you just at 1/4" thickness.
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Thanks Fishin,
I just reviewed your build. Your transom is really clean. I would do well to emulate your work.
Michael
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Been preparing for the transom install. With temperature approaching 100 degrees I want everything ready to go for an early AM start. Tomorrow will be the day!
I ground out the rotten strip af ply ay the hull deck seam, and reenforced it with 4 strips of 1708
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull-Deck_Reenforcement_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14419&title=hull-deck-seam-reenforcement-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Deck_Reenforcement.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14418&title=ohull-deck-seam-reenforcement&cat=500)
Doorskin Template
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Template.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14414&title=transom-template&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Template_on_Sheet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14415&title=transom-template-on-sheet&cat=500)
Did a dry fit of the core and predrilled bolt holes for clamping
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Dry_Fit_Int.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14417&title=transom-dry-fit-int&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Dry_Fit_ext.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14416&title=transom-dry-fit-ext&cat=500)
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Now's the time to plan your drain and make sure that the new lowest point of your boat is not a foot in front of the transom (like mine and many others). PVC is your friend.
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Thanks, Rick.
Plan will be to epoxy in a PVC tube before adding the inside skins. One of many tips I've picked up from this forum. Thanks Classic Aquasport!
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While the core is in, drill an 1 1/4" (OD of 1" PVC - double check please) hole/notch through the core at the very bottom aligning with the hole already there? Coat the hole/notch with regular epoxy (I realize you're using composite but its a good practice anyway) - glue the pipe down and then dry fit the core again. Then do your 1 layer of 3/4oz csm and 3-4 layers of 1708 shiny side against the transom (leaves the csm side "out" when you're done). They say epoxy doesn't work well with CSM but I've not had problems.
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The transom core is in. Everything is well bonded well with good squeeze out all around. Today, I'll install the drain and laminate in the inside skin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Inside_Layers.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14422&title=transom-inside-layers&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Clamped_Inside.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14423&title=transom-clamped-int&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Clamped_Ext.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14424&title=transom-clamped-ext&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transome_Squease_Out.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14425&title=transom-squeeze-out&cat=500)
This little guy paid a visit during the transom install. Katydids are good luck, right?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Katydid.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14426&title=katydid&cat=500)
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Great progress! Things to keep in mind as you finish up the transom is the location of the mounting bolts of the Armstrong as well as any transom thru hulls if you intend to have a livewell. The width between the stringers was an issue with the installation of my livewell drain thru hull due to the fact that I went with the double wide bracket. When it came time to install bracket and thru hulls had to modify the stringer.
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Thanks, Blue I've been thinking about the livewell overflow. What are thoughts about having the outflow on the hull side? I'm thinking about 4-6" in front of the scupper outflow on the starboard side.
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The livewell on my Explorer discharge is on the aft starboard side of the boat.
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Thanks, Blue I've been thinking about the livewell overflow. What are thoughts about having the outflow on the hull side? I'm thinking about 4-6" in front of the scupper outflow on the starboard side.
Not a fan of scuppers exiting side of boat, since you are building have you considered having the scuppers exit the rear? Regarding having the drain overflow exiting on the side sure it can be done but be sure you build access into the floor for the ball valve. Also, it would have to be above the waterline while underway, if not it my not drain quick enough.
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Thanks, one of my goals in the build is easy access to all systems, so getting to sea cocks won't be a problem. In fact one of the appealing things about rebuilding is access. I hate the way that newer boats make it so difficult to do even basic repairs. Some boats require that you have 4 foot arms to even touch the bilge pump- not my boat,
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Travel and family commitments knocked me off my schedule, but I finally have the inner transom skin in. Yeah!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/P7210020.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14476&title=transom-inner-skin&cat=500)
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Looks nice and strong :thumleft:
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Looks nice and beefy!
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I cleaned up the stringer sections that I cut out to access the transom. I think that they're in good enough shape to tab in. There are some gaps, but once they're tabbed in and foamed, they'll be rock solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Ext.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14477&title=stringer-extensions&cat=500)
I'm probably getting ahead of myself, but I cut the transom boxes, so they can be used as the foundation for the transom cap. I'll just count it as research and strategic planning.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stern_Boxes_Trial_Ext.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14479&title=transom-boxes-trial-fit-ext&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Boxes_Trial_Int.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14480&title=transom-boxes-trial-fit-int&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Boxes_Port_View_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14481&title=transom-boxes-port-view&cat=500)
I'll rework the cockpit drains, so they exit the floor and use Perko on bronze scupper valves.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom_Drains.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14482&title=cockpit-drain&cat=500)
These are the drains. I had them on a early 90s Hydrasport 20 that I owned. They worked flawlessly.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Scupper.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14483&title=cockpit-scupper&cat=500)
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Looks like you're having fun now and getting creative. You also might want to think about putting "knees" in to help support the transom for the bracket. Looks great.
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Looking great..... I like the drains but will it make the thru hull fitting below the water line?
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I plan to keep the scupper thru-hulls where they were on the original. I assume that that is right above the designed waterline. I'll need to get the depth dimension of the cockpit drains, but with the deck raised about 3/4 inch, I think everything will drain. If not, it will require a change of plan.
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I'm getting ready to tab in the stringer extensions, but first a little more demolition. I dug about a foot of foam out of the aft end of the stringers, so when I pour in new 4LB foam, it will overlap into both ends of the stringer. I also spent a couple of hours chiseling most of the old bonding putty of the top of the stringers. I also laid a 6' strait edge along the bottom of the hull to assure that there is no hook in the bottom. Good News! No hook, the bottom is strait.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Foam_Demo.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14500&title=stringer-foam-demo&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Foam_Demo_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14501&title=stringer-foam-demo-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Putty_Demo.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14502&title=stringer-putty-demo&cat=500)
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I got the stringer extensions tabbed in today. Tomorrow I'll fill with 4Lb foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Extension.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14520&title=stringer-extensions&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Extension_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14521&title=stringer-extensions&cat=500)
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Nice work :thumleft: Keep it up.
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I keep chipping away at it. Today, I foamed in the stringer extensions, cleaned up the top of the stringers and sealed all the fill holes. The stringers should be solid and watertight for at least the next 38 years.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1176.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14523&title=stringers-foamed-and-sealed&cat=500)
I may have overestimated the amount of foam on this pour. Thar She Blows!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1175.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14522&title=stringers-foamed-and-sealed&cat=500)
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Big Day Today! I need to reenforce the hull-deck seam, so I decided to remove the cap/liner. This will allow me to remove rotted ply from hull-deck seam and reenforce. It will also make it easier to re-core the cap along with a couple of smaller projects. The trade-off: its a big job to remove the liner. All considered things went pretty well.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Liner_Lifted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14524&title=removing-liner&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Liner_Lifted_from_Stern.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14525&title=removing-liner&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Liner_On_Ground.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14526&title=liner-on-ground&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Liner_on_Blocks.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14527&title=liner-on-blocks&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bare_Hull.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14528&title=bare-hull&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bare_Hull_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14529&title=bare-hull-2&cat=500)
Got to admit it: There's something about that Aquasport Shear.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bare_Hull_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14530&title=bare-hull-3&cat=500)
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You're going through the exact same thing I did. Now's a good time to scruff up the hull and lam a layer or two of 1708 on the hullsides to stiffen it up. You'll be glad you did.
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Thanks for the suggestion Rick, I've been debating with myself on what is overkill vs what is merely kill. I want the boat to be strong, but it doesn't take long for a bit more glass here and a bit more there to add up to an extra 500 pounds or more.
I was picking up some supplies from Joel Shine (member), and asked him about adding extra glass to the hull sides. He had a suggestion that made sense to me. He suggested adding stringers to the hull sides as a way to add stiffness without adding much weight. I'm thinking about laminating a half round section of PVC to the hull sides about a foot down and covering with glass. This along with the reenforcement of the hull/deck seam should beef things up without adding much weight. It has the added benefit of requiring less grinding, a real bonus for me.
I'm also planning on running the cockpit sole all the way out to the hull sides this will add more stiffness and provide a way to completely enclose the buoyancy foam in the outer cavities from water. They'll be completely encapsulated with glass.
Thanks to all for the continued input. I'm listening, and your suggestions will make this a better build.
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I've been collecting plunder, so I can begin the multiple steps needed to get the cockpit sole in. Today I picked up 5 sheets of core material (4 for the deck and 1 for the bulkheads for the transom enclosure. I decided to trade some money for a lot of time and purchased two ready made hatches (1 for bilge access and 1 to access forward storage). This should save me 30-40 hours of mold making.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/P8150033.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14536&title=hatches-26amp-3b-tank&cat=500)
My tank arrived last week. It's 58 Gallons. I had it built to the same width, depth and shape as the original, but 58" long instead of the 72". This will help shift some weight forward to help offset a 4-stroke on a bracket, and 58 Gallons should be more than adequate for a 175 Suzuki.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/P8150034.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14537&title=hatches-26amp-3b-tank&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/P8150035.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14538&title=tank-label&cat=500)
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Moving along nicely :thumleft:
Removing the liner will make things much easier. I recommend drilling and dry fitting the bracket while the liner is still out.
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Great suggestion, Blue. I'll have to see if I can swing the $2500 + for the bracket without delaying the rest of the build, though.
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Ouch !
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Yeah, they are quite proud of their brackets. They are well built though, you'll be happy with the bracket. Regarding the 58 gallons of fuel, should be plenty of fuel. I don't believe I have ever seen a fuel cell with the sender welded to the tank.
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Its a flange welded to the tank. the flange is threaded, so the sender screws in. it's quite robust compared to the sender plate that screws to the tank.
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How much was the tank?
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The tank was more than I wanted to spend, $680, add tax and freight from Perry, $835.
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All of the rotted ply is gone and I added 1708 Reenforcement in it's place, 4 layers aft and 6 in the bow all tabbed in with a 4" strip. Should be solid and rot proof.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull:Deck_Reenforcement.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14545&title=hull-2fdeck-reenforcement-new&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull:Deck_Reenforcement_2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14546&title=hull-2fdeck-reenforcement-new&cat=500)
I also did a trial fit of Wire Chases. I'm getting rid of the plumbing elbows and using conduit elbows. I think I'll be able to size up one of the runs to 2 1/2".
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Chase_Tubes_Trial.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14547&title=wire-chase-tubes-trial&cat=500)
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Looks good! Will those pipes come up inside your console? Does your console extend past your stringers?
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The pipes will come up inside the console when I'm done. This was just a first run based on 1 trip to HD. Now I have a better idea on what I'll need on my second run. Actually the console does extend past the stringers, but I'm adding a ressessed toe kick, so that will subtract 7". It will be a game of inches to get the chase right and extend just the right amount into the tank well.
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Here are some updates on progress so far: I've added 3/4 inch risers to the stringer tops. They are left over carbon core board from my transom cores. I'll have enough left to core the aft gunnels, the bow deck and the gunnel outrigger mounts. I've also fitted a backing block for the stem to reenforce the bow eye. Ive added gussets from the transom into the stringers and continue to plan chase tubes and other work. Tomorrow, I'll tab in the stringer risers and gussets.
Stringer Risers
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringer_Risers.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14552&title=stringer-risers&cat=500)
Stem Backing Block
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stem_Backing_Block.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14551&title=stem-backing-block&cat=500)
Transom Gussets
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Gussets.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14553&title=transom-gussets&cat=500)
Chase Tubes 2.0
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Chase_Tubes_2_0.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14550&title=chase-tubes-20&cat=500)
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Those bends and sweeps look like you've got the rigging tubes worked out :thumleft:
Make sure you attach the tubes to something with wetted out cloth strips so they don't move.
Does the carbon core hold a screw? Are you going to through bolt a t-top through it? If so maybe leave access holes in the stringers/deck for a wrench or bed nuts/washers into the underside of the stringer?
What is the product you made the gussetts out of?
Looks real nice though.
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Plan is for the tubes to pass through a bulkhead at the rear and be tabbed at the front. Then the flotation foam will make everything solid. This boat will be a Spartan fishing machine, so no T top. Hats all around for shade. The gussets are 2 x 2" Divinycel epoxied together and wrapped in 2x 1708.
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Make sure you do a dry run with the engine control cables to make sure they can get through the bends.
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It always takes longer than you think. I spent the day glassing in my stem backing block and prepping the stringers for tabbing in the risers. After hours of grinding decided that the tabbing will need to wait for next week.
The stem is glassed in with 3 layers of 1708 next to hull, bedding compound then 3 more layers to encapsulate the core.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stem_Backing_Block_Glassed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14566&title=stem-backing-block-glassed-in&cat=500)
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Make sure you do a dry run with the engine control cables to make sure they can get through the bends.
Yeah, will need to order cables. The cables with the transom mounted outboard were 16 feet long. Anybody know how much to add for the bracket?
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Are the chases in the same place? Will the console be in the same place? How big of a rigging bend did the previous cables have? If you answer yes to the first two questions I would think that that 2-3 feet longer should do it. For what it was worth mine are 17 footers but my boat is not a CCP. I recommend UFLEX Mach series cables.
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With high expectations of rain, I decided not to break out the epoxy today. Instead, I took on the far more relaxing task of templating and cutting the bulkheads. The bulkheads will create the tank compartment, a small compartment under the coffin box and a forward insulated compartment that could serve as an ice hold, but will more likely be used for cast nets, buckets etc. There are also smaller bulkheads in the aft sides that will separate the flotation foam from wet areas creating sealed compartments.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkheads_Looking_Forward.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14584&title=bulkheads&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkheads_Looking_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14583&title=bulkheads&cat=500)
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Nice work! I see the bulkhead material is marked as being from Sweden, Lars' home. Lars did you use any of this stuff on your rebuild?
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It's H-130 Divinycell that I got at a great price. I'm assuming that If H-80 Divinycell is 5LB, then H-130 would be about 8LB. I don't know anything about the Sweden connection.
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I did it! I've been going back and forth with myself on cutting the liner to go to a cap and hull build. Some on this board advised against it. In the end, I decided that the benefits outweigh the risks. Plus: My boat/my rules. I think that in the end this will be a good route to a stiffer and stronger boat.
I understand that a liner is part of the structure of the original boat, but I plan to add longitudinal stiffeners in the form of 3/4" x 4" stringers and transverse stiffeners. Plus the deck will extend all the way to the hull side which will add stiffness as well. Additionally, this will allow me to through-bolt the hull deck joint, and glass the inside of the seam. All in all, I think the result will be stiffer and stronger than liner constriction, especially since Aquasports aren't foam filled. At least mine wasn't the foam in the sides didn't extend forward past the rod tubes. In the end, I should get the fishability of a three piece boat out of my CCP.
Anyway, I've crossed the Rubicon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_From_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14593&title=liner-cut-down-to-cap-from-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14592&title=liner-cut-down-to-cap&cat=500)
I'm confident I can make it strong. My only real concern is that , since the CCP cap rises so high above the hull/deck seam, I'll need to invest some thought and work into making the Hull deck seam look right from the inside.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_side.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14594&title=cap-from-side&cat=500)
So stay tuned. I hope it turns out just as I envision :49: or you may just have a front row seat for a spectacular failure :titantic1:
On a side note, I discovered a really helpful tool, and I had it in my collection all along. Its an oscillating multi-tool. I bought one a few years ago as a corner sanding tool, for a non-boat project. It came with a saw blade and a scraper blade, but I didn't take them seriously. After all, it's a sander? right? Anyway, after seeing the tool mentioned on another board, I decided to give it a try. It won't replace an angle grinder, but it cuts through glass and wood, and it doesn't make as much dust. You just have to let the tool cut at its own pace, but that's true for just about any tool. In the picture below, I used the tool to cut all the way around the glass encapsulating the bow deck. Then, I just pried the whole piece of wet wood up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Deck_Core.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14595&title=bow-deck-core-removal&cat=500)
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Just out of curiosity... have you owned this boat previously or ridden in one of these much? What is your plan of use ?
I own 1 of these and I would have to say it has limited use to say the least. Like I said . just curious. But your doing 1 hell of a job.
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Just out of curiosity... have you owned this boat previously or ridden in one of these much? What is your plan of use ?
I own 1 of these and I would have to say it has limited use to say the least. Like I said . just curious. But your doing 1 hell of a job.
Not sure what you mean Scoflaw. I've owned a 17 Aquasport, and a range of others, 20 Hydrasports, 25 Proline, 20 McKee. The dimensions of the CCP tell me that it should perform just fine for nearshore/offshore use. 20'2" x 7'10". 19 degree dead rise. Yes, it's a 20 foot boat, and that carries some limitations. I find 20 foot to be the ideal length. It's small enough to manage by myself, trailer with my 4 Runner and store in my yard. And, it's big enough to fish offshore on the right days. I've put a lot of sailfish, dolphin and wahoo on the decks of my other 20 footers.
Please tell me what you mean by limited use. Isn't every boat of limited use? You can't put a battleship in a lake, and you shouldn't take a John boat to sea. If you know something unique about the CCP, please share. Otherwise, I plan on catching a hell of a lot of fish between 8a reef/ pelican flats and the cones off Port Canaveral.
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OK, if your a small boat guy that's fishing in small boat waters , that's great news. I own 1 of those in Cape Coral Fl. Decent for the area, wet ride, dangerous in 3 footers and much smaller than what I'm used to up North. Where I boat in Ma. that boat would sink on an average afternoon. We have a lot of shoals and rips here that stand up like a wall and churn like a washing machine, and that's where the fish hang out.
That's why I was wondering. If someone on cape cod ma. spent all the time and money you have on that 20 footer they would be putting their life on the line getting to the fish.
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I was just wondering where you got the side console rod holders. I'm looking to add some to my transom which is very narrow It wont take any that are angled or have a round flange.
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....wet ride, dangerous in 3 footers and much smaller than what I'm used to up North. Where I boat in Ma. that boat would sink on an average afternoon. We have a lot of shoals and rips here that stand up like a wall and churn like a washing machine, and that's where the fish hang out.
That's why I was wondering. If someone on cape cod ma. spent all the time and money you have on that 20 footer they would be putting their life on the line getting to the fish.
The is it worth it question could be asked about any rebuild? I won't be useing the boat in MA. It's a Forida boat born and bred in Florida.
But, Scoflaw, you have a way off tossing grenades and letting them hang there. Please elaborate on the "dangerous in 3 footers" comment. Let's start by acknowledging that not all 3 footers are created equal. In my sea kayaking life, I've been in 3 foot waves that would slap you silly and been in 3 meter waves that were fun.
Does the boat have performance characteristics that make it unsafe? A tendency to stuff the bow? Unstable? Toward Bow Steering? Difficult to control? Pounding? At what speed is it dangerous? Are you talking about unsafe on plane? Or at displacement speed? Bottom line, is there something that makes the 20 CCP uniquely dangerous in 3 foot seas? Or are you saying its a 20 foot boat?
As for wet, I expect any center console to be wet and certainly a 20'foot boat to be wet. Hell, I've taken showers ridding on a 32 Seavee skippered by a professional captain.
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I was just wondering where you got the side console rod holders. I'm looking to add some to my transom which is very narrow It wont take any that are angled or have a round flange.
I got them on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DIO9C58?psc=1
They're ok. I got them because they would fit without widening the console too much. They are a little rough on the inside of the tube, not as well polished as the outside and a couple of rough spots in the casting, nothing that affects use, but I do expect they'll require maintenance. If you can live with plastic TH Marine makes some similar tubes in plastic.
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Mathew spared me, but he did leave a calling card in the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mathew_Aftermath.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14786&title=mathew-leaves&cat=500)
There have been lots of time sucks, but I've been chipping away at the project. I added layers of 1708 to completely reenforce tabbing of the stringers into the hull and glassed the risers to the stringers. Now I'm ready to finalize the bulkhead placement, glass them and tab them in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkhead_Trial_Fit_w_Tank_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14787&title=bulkhead-trial-fit-w-tank&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkheads_Trial_Fit_W_Tank.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14788&title=bulkhead-trial-fit-w-tank&cat=500)
I did a trial run pulling shift cables through the wire chases. They easily fit in either tube. I did notice that they caught on edges if i pushed them from the console end, so I used a rounder bit to route the tube ends. Things should be smooth now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Routed_Chase_Tube.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14789&title=routed-chase-tube&cat=500)
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I got the bulkheads tabbed in, and started building the tank well and forward storage compartments. Since my center wood stringer is in good shape, I decided to fit independent 1 1/4" drains for the forward compartments instead of the single large drain that is common on rebuilds. The deck of the tank well will drain directly into the bilge.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drains.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14843&title=fw-compartment-drains&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drains_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14844&title=fw-compartment-drains&cat=500)
I'm decking the tank well and each storage compartment with Airex T92. It will be laminated with 1708 both sides and the void will be filled with 4Lb foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Patterning_Center_Storage.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14846&title=pattern-2ftrough&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Storage_Decking_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14849&title=fw-storage-decking-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel:Storage_Deck_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14847&title=fuel-2fstorage-deck-dy-fir&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Storage:Fuel_Deck_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14848&title=fuel-2fstorage-deck-dy-fir&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tankwell_Drains.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14850&title=tankwell-drains&cat=500)
I don't want to foam my fuel fill/ vent hoses in place, so i'm adding a trough for them. It's larger than required because I decided to make a mold that will do double duty for the transverse stiffeners that I'll need later and fuel hose trough.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Hose_Trough.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14845&title=pattern-2ftrough&cat=500)
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You're doing a nice job - looks great.
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Just a couple of quick photos. I glassed the panels for the tank well and Fw storage. I used polyester resin to cover the panels, and I'll use epoxy to tab them in. I also fit the wire chase tubes into the fuel fill/vent trough. I'm inching closer working out a punch list to get ready to put the deck on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Storage_Panels_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14855&title=storage-panels-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tubes_Trough.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14856&title=tubes-trough&cat=500)
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Nice touch on rounding the sharp ends of the tubes :great02:
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Thanks, dirtwheels. I'll be copying your coffin box rebuild. You did one hellofajob! :nSalute:
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I got the decks tabbed in for the tank well and center storage lockers. The voids under the decks are filled with foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Center_Compartments_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14880&title=center-lockers-glassed-26amp-3b-foamed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Center_Compartments_Tank_FW.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14881&title=center-lockers-glassed-26amp-3b-foamed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Center_Wells_Glassed_Foamed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14883&title=center-lockers&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Center_FW_Locker.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14882&title=center-lockers&cat=500)
The stem was rough. Over time there were at least three different bow eyes installed, and with the exception of the AS original, they were installed poorly. I ground out the worn areas and feathered back to good glass. Now it's solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Outer_Stem.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14884&title=outer-stem&cat=500)
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:great02:
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I'm preparing to secure the fuel tank. I glued 1/4 PVC strips on the bottom (Pascoe Method), and I'll be securing corner chocks to the top/side/ends of the tank. The chocks will mate with other chocks that will bolt to the stringers/bulkheads. 5200 will be the only thing touching the tank, so that there is nothing that will trap saltwater next to the aluminum.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Pascoe_Strips.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14907&title=fuel-tank-pvc-strips-and-chocks&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Corner_Chocks.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14906&title=fuel-tank-pvc-strips-and-chocks&cat=500)
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Looking really good. Hate to cover all that work up with a deck.. :lolG:
Were you going to coat the tank with anything like coal tar or prime it with interluxe? Just wondering?
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Thanks Fishin, I've gone back and forth about the whole coat or not to coat thing. At the moment, I'm at not to coat. It's one less step, so it gets me on the water sooner. I'm still deluding myself to hope for a May launch. If i protect it from trapped moisture it should be a 15 plus year tank. After that it will be time for the hydrogen fuel cell.
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I did one more trial fit of the tank, this time with the console too. It truly is a game of fractions. I'm going to have to make some adjustments to make sure my deck clears the fuel fill. If I had it to do over, I'd have the tank made 2" wider and 1/2" lower. I guess the tank coffin sat below the stringers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Trial_w_Console.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14917&title=tank-trial-w-console&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Trial_w_Console_2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14918&title=tank-trial-w-console-2&cat=500)
I ripped wedges of the H130 Divynecel that I used for the bulkheads to make a ledge for the outer edge go the cockpit sole. right now, it's epoxied in place with a few tacks of hot glue to hold until the epoxy cures. Then, I'll tab with 12 oz biax tape to encapsulate the ledge and give something to bond the deck to.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Ledge_Close-Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14921&title=deck-ledge-close-up&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Ledge_From_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14920&title=deck-ledge&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Ledge.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14919&title=deck-ledge&cat=500)
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:thumleft: Nice workmanship. I agree, it's all planning, planning, planning.
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Yeah Rick, At least the planning, planning, planning is more fun than the grinding, grinding, grinding
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Amen to that :08:
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I ripped wedges of the H130 Divynecel that I used for the bulkheads to make a ledge for the outer edge go the cockpit sole. right now, it's epoxied in place with a few tacks of hot glue to hold until the epoxy cures. Then, I'll tab with 12 oz biax tape to encapsulate the ledge and give something to bond the deck to.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Ledge_Close-Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14921&title=deck-ledge-close-up&cat=500)
Pretty slick. :idea:
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Thanks, Capt. Bob. Should do the job.
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Little Steps. I got the ledge for the cockpit sole tabbed in, and rigged a chase to sneak the livewell drain outside of the stringers. Fingers crossed, on Sunday I'll pattern and cut the deck panels. I'll still need to install and plumb tank, secure all chases and foam in the outer cavities before it will be time to install the deck. Even so, it will feel good to start it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Ledge_Tabbed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14923&title=decktab-2flivewll-chase&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Livewell_Drain_Chase.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14924&title=decktab-2flivewll-chase&cat=500)
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Nice clean work!
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Keep the boat porn coming. Nice work.
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Today, I templated, cut and did a first dry fit of the cockpit sole. Overall, not a bad day! The deck is 3/4" Airex T92 Foam. It will be laminated with vinylester resin 2 layers 1708 on the top and 1 layer 1708 on the bottom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Sole_Pattern.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14929&title=cockpit-sole-pattern&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Sole_Layout_on_Foam.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14928&title=cockpit-sole-pattern&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Sole_Dry_Fit_Before_Glass.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14930&title=cockpit-sole-dry-fit-before-glass&cat=500)
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:coolth:
Nice use of a custom template.
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That is some quality work there....
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The top of my cockpit sole is now glassed. In hindsight, I wish I had done the bottom first. I made some mistakes and learned some lessons that would have better been applied where they will show. Oh well!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sole_Top_Glass_Cut.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14935&title=sole-top-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sole_Top_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14936&title=sole-top-glassed&cat=500)
I couldn't resist trying the console and coffin out on the new sole. It seems like the decision to go with cap only rebuild will result in significant more walk around room. Though, I am now leaning toward scrapping the console and building a new one with similar lines, but without some of the idiosyncrasies( like odd cupholder notch). I'm also reconsidering the T-Top thing and may go with one.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sole_Console_Coffin_Trial.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14937&title=sole-console-26amp-3b-coffin-trial&cat=500)
As if I need more fronts in this war, I decided to tear into my coffin box. Truthfully, I got tired of moving it out of the way to get to other work. It now weighs about 1/4 as much without the liner, waterlogged foam and plywood. The plan is to do something similar to what dirtwheelsfl did with his coffin box.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Demo.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14938&title=coffin-demo&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Demo_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14939&title=coffin-demo&cat=500)
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Cut some 1/2" Airex panels for the console. It has the same footprint as the original with lines and angles copied but simplified. The ledge between the instrument panel and dash is deeper allowing for a ledge to toss lures etc on, and the instrument panel is enlarged to allow for flush mount electronics. will laminate with 2 layers 1708, plus 1 1.5 oz CSM, outside and 1 layer 1708 inside. In the end i think this will be less work than fairing and finishing the old console to my satisfaction.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14942&title=console&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14943&title=console&cat=500)
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Today, I made the cutouts to fit the bilge access and forward storage hatches. There will be a small hatch under the coffin to access a mid compartment. I'm trying to come up with a way to hinge the coffin box to allow access.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Hatch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14968&title=hatches&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Forward_Hatch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14969&title=hatches&cat=500)
I also picked up my leaning post/ live well. Its a little larger than ideal, but it should be ok. I need the rod holders, the live well and the storage. I could have made something just a bit smaller, or save the time and be happy with good enough. I'm happy..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaningpost_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14970&title=leaningpost&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaningpost_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14971&title=leaningpost&cat=500)
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Beauty! Wherdja get the hatches??
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Thanks. The hatches come from Gulfstream Composites. Joel Shine, a member here, is the owner. They're not cheap, but they will save me a bunch of time.
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I'm working on the punch list of stuff I need to do to get ready to install the deck. Today I got a coat of bilge paint on the bilge and tank well. Second coat will go in tomorrow AM. I'll be able to permanently install the tank soon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Paint_Looking_Forward.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15012&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
The pads are for mounting the bilge pumps and the backing blocks are for the live well pickup and transducer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Looking_Aft.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15011&title=bilge-paint&cat=500)
I also fitted some foam, so the forward hold will be fully insulated.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fwd_Hold_Insulation.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15013&title=fwd-hold-insulation&cat=500)
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The bilge paint sure 'purdys' up the area - nice work and planning.
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My fuel tank is now glued down with 5200 (Pascoe method). I will bolt in chocks to the stringers and bulkheads to make certain that it won't budge.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Glued_Down.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15093&title=tank-glued-down&cat=500)
I decided to change my chase tubes. With the trough that I built to keep from foaming in the fuel fill, it didn't really make sense to keep the elbows up into the console. The trough allows for everything to make the turn, and it will take up less real-estate under console. It's also a bit more flexible when it comes to routing stuff plus i managed to fit in a bonus 3rd tube.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/New_Chases.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15092&title=revised-chase-tubes&cat=500)
I started to add flotation foam under that anchor locker and in the sides. I'm trying something different in the sides. I fitted a temporary deck that is covered with polly. I'll foam through the holes and remove the deck. I hope this allows me to use less material and require less trimming and fairing to get the foam level.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Foam.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15094&title=bow-foam&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Foam_Trimmed.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15095&title=bow-foam-trimmed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foaming_Side_Flotation.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15096&title=foaming-side-flotation&cat=500)
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Good progress.
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Flotation Foam is nearing completion. I hoped to be a bit further. It's the 20 minute wait between pours. It eats a lot of time. I'll be ho-ho-hoing for the next three days, but hopefully Tuesday, I'll check the foam off the list.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Starbord_Panel_Removed.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15098&title=flotation-foam&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_3:4_Complete.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15097&title=flotation-foam&cat=500)
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Got the last of the floatation foam poured today. It took less than a 5 gallon (5A & 5B) kit of 2 Lb. foam to fill the voids. I think i have about 1.5 gal each A & B left. I'll level the foam and seal with epoxy prior to attaching the cockpit sole.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flotation_Foam_Pour_Complete.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15125&title=floatation-foam-pour-complete&cat=500)
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Christmas came a week late. I picked up my bracket from Armstrong yesterday. Its a wide body flotation bracket with 30" setback. I got the ladder mount and 3-step ladder too. Of course, now that I have the bracket, I need to get busy on fairing and painting the transom too. So much to do.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15148&title=armstrong-bracket&cat=500)
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Lookin' good. :thumright:
Curious, did they supply a mounting template?
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Curious, did they supply a mounting template?
No template. I think most people use the bracket as a template. I may make one though. It would be easier than trying to balance the bracket on stands.
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Sweet! Same bracket I have, you'll be happy with it. Do you have a cherry picker? Works great to lift and install the bracket. You can make a template which is what I did but I found it much easier on brother's build to use the bracket itself as the template. Mark the center line on the transom and a horizontal line at the appropriate mounting height depending on the shaft size of your motor, then use the cherry picker to get the bracket in place. Drill the two outer holes on each side of the bracket and install those two bolts and snug them up, then with a sharpie mark all the remaining mounting holes. Next remove the bracket and drill the remaining holes. Keep the photos coming! Good Luck!
Question, why is there four upper mounting holes for the motor and no Armstrong logo?
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Do you have a cherry picker? Works great to lift and install the bracket. You can make a template which is what I did but I found it much easier on brother's build to use the bracket itself as the template. Mark the center line on the transom and a horizontal line at the appropriate mounting height depending on the shaft size of your motor, then use the cherry picker to get the bracket in place. Drill the two outer holes on each side of the bracket and install those two bolts and snug them up, then with a sharpie mark all the remaining mounting holes.
Question, why is there four upper mounting holes for the motor and no Armstrong logo?
Yeah, I have a cherry picker. What did you use for pick points? Slings around the tub? Or something through the access port?
The bracket came standard with the two sets of upper holes. Armstrong literature says use the second set for motor mounting, so I assume the second set would be used if the owner wanted to raise the motor. Not sure about the logo. I haven't taken the bubble wrap of the platform, so I assume the logo is under that.
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Console 2.0 is taking shape. Foam panels are epoxied together, and it's nearly ready to glass exterior.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15166&title=console-20&cat=500)
A 3/4" round-over bit made quick work of radiasing most of the corners. Because of the angles, I'll need to use a sander to radius the remaining corners.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0_Dash.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15167&title=console-20&cat=500)
Foam fillets were used to increase bonding suface and provide backing for the rounded corners.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0_Interior.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15168&title=console-20-interior&cat=500)
I added a reassessed toe kick at the rear of the console. Will do something similar at forward edge of leaning post. With size 14s every inch counts.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0_Toe_Kick.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15170&title=console-20-toe-kick&cat=500)
The console has the same footprint as the original AS console, but dash surface sits higher to make stand-up operation more comfortable. Overall height is 49" with the raised surface for electronics. I will be able to flush mount 2) 7" displays, VHF, stereo, plus all switches and gauges. It still scales well to the leaning post and coffin box.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0_w_Leaningpost_2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15172&title=console-20-w-leaning-post&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_2_0_w_Coffin.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15173&title=console-20-w-coffin&cat=500)
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2x4 in the access hole and a strap to the cherry picker, I have a photo I'll post if I can find but I think you get the idea. Regarding the logo, typically I have always seen an Armstrong decal right between the motor mounting holes.
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Yeah, I got it. The logo on mine is in the starboard edge of the platform.
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Here you go, check out the photos. Based on this photo it appears that the upper mounting bolts are equivalent to were my mounting holes are located. Logos on port, starboard, and center on all brackets I have seen. They probably just forgot to install the remaining decals, no worries just give them a ring as I am sure Lawrence will send you some decals. Looking forward to seeing that bracket mounted. :thumleft:
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/IMG_0715_zpswivimhyl.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/fbueno2/media/IMG_0715_zpswivimhyl.jpg.html)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h437/fbueno2/IMG_0818%20-%20Copy_zpsoxczl7vv.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/fbueno2/media/IMG_0818%20-%20Copy_zpsoxczl7vv.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the photos, Blue. You sure have a beautiful boat.
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Pretty sure they drill the mounting plates with 6 holes now for the bigger outboards that have the double bolts on top.. Console looks good!
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The work hasn't been very photogenic recently, but I've been making progress. I got the flotation foam leveled and sealed with thickened/pigmented epoxy. I've also been glueing together the female tank chocks and molding scupper tubes to pass from the front of the transom bulkhead through the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Leveled_and_Sealed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15213&title=flotation-foam-leveled-and-sealed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam_Leveled_and_Sealed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15212&title=flotation-foam-leveled-and-sealed&cat=500)
I made a form for the scupper tubes out of some scrap PVC. I wrapped them in packing tape and waxed them before wrapping in 1708. The scupper openings will be about 1 1/4" x 3". I'll fit small extensions to support the tubes from the bulkhead back to the transom. When finished the scuppers will be about 1" below the sole.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scupper_on_Forms.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15214&title=scupper-tubes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_Trimmed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15215&title=scupper-tubes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Starboard_Scupper_Trial.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15217&title=scupper-trial-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_Scupper_Trial.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15216&title=scupper-trial-fit&cat=500)
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Great idea on the scuppers.
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Thanks, Rick. Can't really take credit for the idea. It came from Joel Shine's 23 Seacraft. That's the cool thing about forums like Classic Aquasport. We get to see the best ideas from hundreds of rebuilds. Then we can steal (err borrow) them and adapt them to our needs.
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I thought I had seen the same approach more recently - maybe dirt's latest build?
Yeah this is a great site, built by the hundreds of members that have taken the time to post their rebuilds to help the next guy/gal on their rebuild.
All the staff do is keep it organized in an easy to find structure.
So, what is the plan if you need to plug those scuppers?
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Yeah, Dirt's approach to his scuppers on the 222 is interesting. I'd like to see more of what he's doing below deck (posted a question on his thread).
My deck will be 1" higher than stock. With the flotation in the bracket, I hope to not have an issue that would require plugging the scuppers. I've never needed to plug scuppers on any boat, so far. Even my AS 170, as long as I kept the scupper flaps in good shape, stayed reasonably dry. I did get wet feet sometimes, but safety of self bailing sole was higher priority.
I plan on putting flap type scuppers on the outside transom. If I decide that I have a need to plug drains, I can fabricate an oval rubber plug.
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I'm inching closer to being able to install my Cockpit Sole. I'm hopeful that within a week or so I'll be there. I also am allowing myself to be distracted by numerous smaller projects. I had some vinyl ester resin that I needed to use up before expiration, so I decided to mold an anchor locker liner that will store a fluke style anchor.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15260&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Molded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15261&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Popped.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15262&title=anchor-locker-popped&cat=500)
It still needs to be trimmed and cleaned up, but here it is with Fortress FX7.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_w_Anchor.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15263&title=anchor-locker-popped&cat=500)
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Sweet!!
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I'm chipping away at projects to get ready to drop the deck. I cut a fuel tank inspection port leaving a lip of the bottom deck glass. I routed away some of the foam to allow for a solid glass edge for the hatch.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Inspection_Port_Cut_Routed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15266&title=fuel-tank-inspection-port-cut-26amp-3b-routed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Inspection_Port_Routed_Edge.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15267&title=fuel-tank-inspection-port-cut-26amp-3b-routed&cat=500)
I built up the lip with multiple layers of 1708 to about 1/4". The hatch cover will be 1/2" to give a bit more clearance for the fuel fill. I'll build up a bit more suport for the lip when I flip the deck.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Inspection_Port_Lip_Built_Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15269&title=fuel-tank-inspection-port-lip-26amp-3b-fillet&cat=500)
The routed edge is now filled with thickened epoxy to create a solid glass edge for the hatch opening.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Fillet_Close_Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15271&title=fuel-tank-inspection-port-fillet&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Inspection_Port_Fillet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15268&title=fuel-tank-inspection-port-lip-26amp-3b-fillet&cat=500)
The hatches are epoxied down and tabs of 1708 ease the transition to the cockpit sole. A little fairing and I hope it looks like they grew there.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Hatches_Installed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15270&title=deck-hatches-installed&cat=500)
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Nice job
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I was planning on glassing aluminum plates in the deck for T top reenforcement, but after seeing Dirtwheel's latest work, I decided to use glass pads, non corroding and plenty strong. They're 8"x8"x5/8" pads of solid glass that will be routed and glassed into the deck. It took 18 layers of 1708 to get that thickness. I also filleted and glassed in the underside of my hatches. Curing epoxy is slow, given the cool temperatures, but they're setting up just fine.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glass_Pads.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15288&title=hatch-undersides&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hatch_Undersides_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15289&title=hatch-undersides&cat=500)
This is the underside of the bilge access hatch. A deck beam has been laminated in place to provide a bit more support under the aft edge of the deck where it spans between the stringers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Access_Hatch_Underside.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15290&title=bilge-access-hatch-underside&cat=500)
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Here is my :2Cents:
These pads are for a tower/T-top? How thick is the deck and what is it made from - Plascore/corecell?
If it is plascore/corecell - a honeycomb type composite, the coring is not structural, it holds the top and bottom apart - the strength is in the lams of 1708. If the deck is 3/4 plus glass - so say 1", if you lam'd 6-8 layers of 1708 on top and bottom total. Now you're going to route out more than half of it? Once you penetrate the inner core, say to route out half, the remaining portion of core is compromised. The portion between the inside layer of the top lam and the top of the pad is useless - you saw the condition of the core when you cut in the hatches.
If you want to tie into something sturdy, cut and glass the pads into the stringers and then glue the entire thickness of the floor on top. Now the pads are being pulled against several layers of glass plus core plus glass.
My floor is plascore and I wouldn't put any faith in securing something to it alone, especially only half of it (routed part of it out).
Again, this is only my :2Cents:
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Thanks, Rick. Good suggestions.
My deck is 3/4 " foam with 2 layers 1708 on top and one layer bottom. I'm going to rout all of the foam out. Bond in the pads then add additional layers of 1708 to build pads up to level with deck. Then I'm going to finish with a couple of overlaps of 1708 to tie into the bottom skin. The entire deck around the pads will be about an inch of solid glass and part of the I beam structure that the foam and skins form.
I thought about notching pads into stringers, but the T top will be almost entirely outside the stringers and the rear starboard stringer has a notch that trails down to a narrow edge near the pad, so it will offer no real support.
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Yeah I saw that part of the stringer. You can also embed t-nuts from the bottom up.
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Interesting discussion.
At a table posted on another board (discussion was about Nida Core v Divynecel) showed an engineering table for fasteners into solid glass laminate (mat & poly). 1/4 -20 machine screws threaded directly into glass provided 2300 lb strength for axial load(depth of penetration was 10/16") and 1900lb for lateral load(depth of penetration 5/16")
14-14 self tapping screws were even stronger, but required thicker laminates with axial load of 3200 lbs in 17/16" laminate and lateral load of 2800 lbs lateral load in 11/16" laminate.
An epoxy/1708 laminate schedule should be at least as strong. I'm not certain T nuts would add anything. The glass would limit the number of times a screw could be unscrewed and rescrewed, but that wouldn't be a serious limitation for T top install.
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Today I dry fit the scupper tubes and mini decks/stringers that will support the scuppers. I'll do the final fit after I install the deck, but I wanted everything roughed in while I still have room.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scupper_Tube_Transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15301&title=scupper-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scupper_Tube_Mini_Deck.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15300&title=scupper-dry-fit&cat=500)
When I drilled the transom, I was quite pleased that there were no voids in any of the cores. Outside skin measures a tad over 3/8" and the inside skin is 3/16".
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transome_Cores.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15302&title=transom-cores&cat=500)
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Just posting a few odds and ends. The sole has been routed for T top reenforcement pads, and the pads are glassed in. I used 2 layers 1708 under the pads to create a solid bond to the top skins, then 2 more layers over the pads to build thickness and bond to the bottom skin, and finished up with two layers that overlap (1" & 2") onto the bottom skin. All in all, its over an inch of solid glass that is part of the deck structure.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Pads_under_Console.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15315&title=t-top-pads&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Routing_Pads.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15318&title=routing-t-top-reenforcement&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Routed_Pad.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15317&title=routing-t-top-reenforcement&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Prepped_Pad_Cut_Outs.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15316&title=t-top-pads&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glassed_Pad.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15319&title=glassed-t-top-reenforcement&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glassed_Pads.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15320&title=glassed-t-top-reenforcement&cat=500)
I also trimmed up the anchor locker liner. It will drop into a recess in the cap, and I'll build a simple hatch. I see no need for gutters on an anchor locker, since its a wet area.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Liner_Trimmed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15321&title=anchor-locker-trimmed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Trimmed_w_Anchor.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15323&title=anchor-locker-trimmed-w-anchor&cat=500)
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Looks like that will do it. :thumleft:
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Finally got around to securing the fuel tank. Earlier in the build, I glued PVC strips to tank bottom w 5200 and glued the tank to the bottom of the tank well. I built PVC chocks and used 5200 to secure to tank and built PVC male chocks to trap the tank. The male chocks are secured with 5200. Original plan was to bolt the male chocks to the stringers & bulkheads, but the final shape didn't lend itself to bolting. I decided to tab the chocks into the stringers and bulkheads instead. Tank is going nowhere, and there's nothing but 5200 in contact with the tank.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Secure.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15333&title=tank-secure&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tank_Chock_Glassed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15332&title=tank-chocks-tabbed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fw_Tank_Chocks_Tabbed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15331&title=tank-chocks-tabbed-in&cat=500)
I also tabbed in the mini stringer/deck extensions that will support the scupper tubes. They'll be foam filled, and the scuppers will be bonded to them.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mini_Stringer:Deck_Extention_S.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15330&title=mini-stringer-2fdeck-extension-tabbed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Mini_Stringer:Deck_Extention_P.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15329&title=mini-stringer-2fdeck-extension-tabbed-in&cat=500)
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:great02:
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I don't recall seeing much, if any, mention in the build threads of prepping the underside of the cockpit sole prior to bonding. I'm not sure if this is because most people don't do it, or because it's so obvious that no one mentions it. In any case, I decided it couldn't hurt, so I roughed the underside of my sole everywhere that it will contact stringers, bulkheads and the outer ledge.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sole_Underside_Prep.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15340&title=cockpit-sole-prepped-underside&cat=500)
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Got first coat of Tile Clad on my Forward Holds today. Second coat will go on Sunday, weather permitting. The forward box would hold a big dolphin or a five foot wahoo, no problem. Since it drains into the bilge, I'm not certain that I'll use it for fish, but I could. Accessing the smaller hold will require lifting the coffin box, so it will be used for seldom used items.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Holds_Painted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15346&title=fw-holds-painted&cat=500)
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:great02:
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Tomorrow is the day! The fuel tank is wired and plumbed. Bilge and holds are painted. Stringers are prepped. The deck is ready. The weather forecast looks good, and helpers are lined up. Baring any unforeseen obstacles, the cockpit sole is going in tomorrow.
All hoses are double clamped. Electrical connections are crimped, shrink and covered with a second layer of heat shrink. I still need to tie up the wires, but I forgot to bring wire ties. I'll take care of it tomorrow.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tank_Wired_and_Plumbed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15434&title=squared-away&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Squared_Away_Below_Deck.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15433&title=squared-away&cat=500)
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Supposed to rain in the afternoon. Only takes a little time to set the deck and weigh it down. Good luck - it'll feel great when it's in.
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Great day today! Got the cockpit sole installed today. It took a bit of trimming to get the fit just right, but after a couple of shots it dropped right in. It took about 2 gallons of epoxy with cabosil, wood flour and milled fiber as filler. We could have gotten by with less, but working fast took priority over being fussy.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Sole_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15435&title=cockpit-sole-install&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cockpit_Sole_Glue_and_Weights.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15436&title=cockpit-sole-install&cat=500)
Brother in Law, Gary trying out the fishbox. He's the one who drew the straw to apply the epoxy to the forward stringers and bulkheads.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/P2180017.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15438&title=gary-in-fishbox&cat=500)
You can tell it's a CCP again! Temporarily reattached the cap. I'll make some cradles to hold it in shape when I take it off to core the top. For now, I'll pattern the bulkheads and transverse stiffeners while its in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Temporary_Install.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15437&title=cap-temporary-install&cat=500)
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Great feeling isn't it :thumleft: Looks super, nice work. Congrats.
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Definitely feels good to have the sole in. You know that thing where you stare and think? That's how I spent my morning. Probably going to fair the transom and dry fit my bracket first. Then I'll build the transom bulkhead and cap before coring the cap and gunwales.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Cap_From_Stern_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15440&title=deck-26amp-3b-cap-from-stern&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Cap_From_Stern.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15439&title=deck-26amp-3b-cap-from-stern&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Cap_from_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15442&title=deck-26amp-3b-cap-from-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Cap_From_Bow_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15441&title=deck-26amp-3b-cap-from-bow&cat=500)
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Sole is filleted & tabbed in, 12oz biax & 1708. I'll pay for it when it's time to fair, but the joint is solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Fillet_Tabbed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15452&title=deckfillet-26amp-3b-tabbed&cat=500)
Templated the transom cap & bulkhead today. It's kind of cool to begin to see a boat taking shape again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Bulkhead_Template.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15453&title=transom-cap-26amp-3b-bulkhead-template&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Cap_Template.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15454&title=transom-cap-26amp-3b-bulkhead-template&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Covering_Boards.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15455&title=gunwale-covering-boards&cat=500)
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Moving right along :thumleft:
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I'm still working at it. The cold weather has slowed work the past couple of days. I expect no pity from those in the north, but epoxy doesn't like cold. I discovered 2 hollow spots in my transom exterior, too big for fairing mix, so I filled them out with a couple of extra layers 1708. I also filled all the holes left by PO's mods. Now it's reasonably flat and ready for fairing. I'm still planning to dry fit the bracket this weekend.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Pre_Fair.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15625&title=transom-pre-fair&cat=500)
I've also been doing some work on the cap. I'm glueing 1/2" Airex into the coming to provide backing for openings and stiffness. Eventually she'll get coaming bolsters, but I'll think about that tomorrow.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Backing_Foam.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15624&title=coaming&cat=500)
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Dry fit the bracket yesterday. I had hoped to have the transom at primer at this stage, but the cold weather postponed most epoxy work for a week. Still, every step gets me closer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15633&title=bracket-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Dry_Fit_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15635&title=bracket-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Dry_Fit_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15634&title=bracket-dry-fit&cat=500)
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Worked on a couple more projects today. I used some leftover carbon core to cut gunwale covering boards, and patterned and fitted rod holder/ transverse stiffeners/ gunwale supports from leftover 2" divinycell. I also continued to work on the coaming. It's 8" high forward tapering to 6" aft. Everything will still need to be glassed together before I can flip the cap and finish coring it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders:Stiffeners.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15640&title=rod-holders-2fstiffeners&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Fair_Curve.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15638&title=coaming&cat=500)
One of my concerns when I went to a "cap-only" rebuild was how the hull-deck seam would look and how i'd handle the cosmetics. Even from this extremely low angle, it appears that there's only an 8' or so section of the hull deck seam that I'll need to deal with.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Low_Angle.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15639&title=coaming&cat=500)
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The seams look good - are you going to fill and fair the weave on the hull sides?
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Oh yeah, lots of filling, fairing and sanding to go. After the stern cap is built out, and the coaming tied into the cap, I'll remove the cap and flip it to finish coreing it. Then, I'll go to work on the hull sides. I have some prisma planks that I'll use as longitudinal stiffeners. The aft rod holders will provide additional stiffness in the rear, and I'll have 3 sets of transverse stiffeners forward including the cover for the fuel fill. Forward and aft bulkheads need to be installed too. Then I'll fair the hull sides and tie everything back together. Yeah, lots of fairing to go.
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Continued to make progress on the cap and coaming. All the foam on the inside is glued in. I still need to work out how I'm going to complete the aft section of the outside stern cap, but a plan is coming together. Then I'll radius and fillet the foam before glassing it(at least 2 layers 1708).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Gunwale.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15651&title=transom-coaming-26amp-3b-cap&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Coaming.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15652&title=transom-coaming-26amp-3b-cap&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Coaming_Side.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15654&title=transom-coaming-26amp-3b-cap-2&cat=500)
I used the Aquasport stern boxes to provide structure to attach the foam. Using the boxes will allow me to finish the exterior cap and preserve the CCP lines.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Cap_Inside_View.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15653&title=transom-coaming-26amp-3b-cap-2&cat=500)
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Good idea. :salut:
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Been working on the exterior transom cap for the last two days, well a couple hours yesterday and a few today. I made a quick and dirty mold for the shoebox and molded a flat sheet too. Then I fitted the pieces into the cap, secured with screws and filleted into place. Thursday, I hope to radius the foam pieces and maybe begin glassing the cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Shoe_Box_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15659&title=shoe-box-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Rear_Cap.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15657&title=rear-transom-cap&cat=500)
I'll need to feather back the glass from the original transom boxes and fill out to level.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transome_Cap_Side_View.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15658&title=rear-transom-cap&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Cap_Fillets.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15660&title=transom-cap-fillets&cat=500)
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I'm continuing to work on the cap. I got the profile sanded and I covered and the aft cap and coaming with glass. I still need to tab in the additional pieces to the Aquasport cap on the exterior, but that will be work for another day. I am pleased that she is looking more like a boat again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Cap_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15664&title=transom-cap-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15661&title=aft-coaming-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_Glassed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15662&title=aft-coaming-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Transom_Cap.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15663&title=transom-cap-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coaming_and_Cap.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15665&title=caming-26amp-3b-cap-looking-aft&cat=500)
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Its amazing how work and life intrude. And then any loss of momentum. . . . I can't believe it's been a month since i made any real progress on the rebuild. The good news is, I'll have just about every day this week to work on it.
Anyway, I got the exterior cap all tied together. I used 12 oz biax since it wraps around outside corners better than the 1708. I'll give it a preliminary sand before i knock out a few more projects. Then, I'll flip the cap and re core the top.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Exterior_Cap_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15813&title=exterior-cap-glassed&cat=500)
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Looks good - yeah 1708 doesn't like even the slightest bend.
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A bit more progress. I boxed the scupper tubes in. The stern bulkhead will be mounted flush with the face, so that everything will look clean. I also fit the rod holders/ transverse stiffeners and glassed them. I ran into a bit of a problem fitting the troughs that will provide a run for the fuel fill and vent. They're too tall to fit into place with the cap on, so I'm working through a bit of re-engineering. I also fit the forward (anchor locker) bulkhead. Next up, I'll glass the bulkheads and get them ready for installation.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_Boxed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15839&title=scuppers-boxed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15838&title=scuppers-boxed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Sleeved.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15841&title=rod-holders-sleeved&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15840&title=rodholders-sleeved-26amp-3b-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Bulkhead.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15842&title=fw-bulkhead&cat=500)
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Nice work.
I like the rod holder/stiffners - good idea and I really wish I had recessed my scuppers - nice idea and execution.
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Yea had to cut the top 4" off the fuel hose box on my flatty and glass it back on after :?
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Bulkheads and stiffener/rod holders are glassed and trimmed. I dry fit them today along with the stiffeners that cover for the fuel fill and vent. Dirt wheels, you called it. I needed to remove about 5" from the top. I'll fill in the gaps after everything is buttoned up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders:Stiffeners_Dry_Fit.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15844&title=rodholders-2fstiffeners-dryfit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stiffeners_Faceing_Aft.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15847&title=stiffeners-facing-fw&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkhed:Stiffeners_Dryfit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15848&title=stiffeners-facing-fw&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scupper_Bulkhead.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15851&title=bulkheads-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Bulkhead_Dryfit.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15850&title=bulkheads-dry-fit&cat=500)
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I decided to do a little work on the console. It's been sheathed with two layers of 1708 and a surface layer of CSM to make fairing easier. Though, easy would never be a word that I'd apply to fairing. Looking at all the fairing that the console will need, I've decided that if i ever build another console, I'll make a mold. Of course, there's no way I'd be crazy enough to tackle another rebuild.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Glassed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15878&title=console-glassed&cat=500)
I gave the sides a quick wipe of VE resin mixed with microballoons & cabosil. The resin on the console is still green enough that I can get a good primary bond without a full sand.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Preliminary_Wipe.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15879&title=console-glassed&cat=500)
I also moulded shells for the four stiffeners to go forward. They'll be tabbed in and wrapped with 2 layers of 1708 before being filled with foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Stiffeners.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15880&title=hull-stiffeners&cat=500)
I also have some Prisma Planks that will be glassed to the hull sides as longitudinal stiffeners, two rows top & middle. It's a bit of overkill, but should more than replace the stiffness that the liner provided.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Prisma_Planks.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15881&title=hull-stiffeners&cat=500)
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Of course, there's no way I'd be crazy enough to tackle another rebuild.
Famous last words :thumright:
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Of course, there's no way I'd be crazy enough to tackle another rebuild.
Famous last words :thumright:
True nuff, dirtwheels, but here's what I'd say to anyone contemplating doing a rebuild: Only do it if all of the following statements are true.
1 I'm rebuilding because I want something that can't be found in current production boats.
2 I want the boat to be purpose built with everything where I want it.
3 I will enjoy most of the work of rebuilding and consider it quality recreation. (No one wakes up and says I really want to grind some glass today, but you get my point).
4 you plan on keeping the boat for a long time, and resale value is unimportant.
As for cost, it is possible to do a rebuild and save money. You can use less expensive materials like marine ply and poly resin (both great choices). You can reuse the outboard or repower with a used motor. Use surplus hardware or even reuse some of the original hardware. Be happy with a workboat finish. These things would get you through a rebuild and save some cash.
If you are like me, however, useing epoxy, vinylester and composites; planning on new power and only happy with top-quality components, it will be hard to escape without spending close to the cost of a new or late model boat.
Oh well! For me 1-4 are completely true.
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X2
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Gave the console a preliminary sand. There are still some high spots to knock down before I start fairing in earnest. I also decided to do a sample layout for the instrument panel. I can fit 2) 7" Displays, a VHF, Radio, Suzuki C10 Display and a 10 Switch Panel from New Wire Marine - Not bad.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Prelim_Sand:Instr_Panel.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15921&title=console-prelim-sand-2f-instrument-panel&cat=500)
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Looks good.
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As I am new to the forum, so I am just getting to many of the rebuild threads. I wanted to say I love the way you did your scuppers. I was thinking of doing something very similar but had no idea how I was going to make it happen. The double PVC pipe and spacer mold was genius. Posts like these make me very happy I found this forum, and had time to discover these treasures during my teardown, before I start to construct. Thank you for documenting your build so well. I look forward to seeing the rest.
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Funsmith, thanks for the kind words. Many of my ideas, including the scupper mold, came from pouring over other build threads. I'll be following your build too. I'm especially interested in your plan to add flair to your 222.
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The console is glassed inside and inside is painted with Tile Clad. I did leave a band at the bottom uncoated to allow the console to be glassed inside and out to the cockpit sole. Kind of last minute, I decided to mold a recessed foot rest for the rear face of the console.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Ressessed_Footrest1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15972&title=resessed-footrest&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Resessed_Footrest_21.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15971&title=resessed-footrest&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_w_Footrest1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15970&title=console-w-footrest&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_W_Footrest_21.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15969&title=console-w-footrest&cat=500)
I got a big lift out hatch for the front of the console. With the coffin box in place, it will fold down to allow access to the inside of the console. When the coffin is removed, it will lift out completely to make rigging easier.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_W_Hatch1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15973&title=console-w-hatch&cat=500)
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Coming along nicely!
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The forward stiffeners are patterned and dry fit. I hope to flip the cap this weekend. After its recored and glassed, it will be time to button everything up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Forward_Stiffeners.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15978&title=forward-stiffeners&cat=500)
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Diggin the beer flat on the console between helm and electronics face :great02:
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The cap is off, but with the heat, its been hard to get motivated for the grinding necessary to prep for re-coring. I'm still playing with the console instead. I decided to build an internal flange that will be bonded to the deck prior to glassing the exterior down. This seems easier than glassing inside the console on my knees. A bonus is that I'll be able to finish and pre-rig the inside of the console before it's secured in place.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Internal_Flange.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16017&title=console-internal-flange&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Flange.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16016&title=console-internal-flange&cat=500)
I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, but I ordered a facsimile of my capacity plate. The original was completely unreadable, but thanks to the information on Classic Aquasport, I was able to resurrect the necessary information to fill in the blanks.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Capacity_Plate_200_CCP.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16018&title=capacity-plate-200ccp&cat=500)
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:thumright:
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Did a bit of work today dry fitting the Prisma planks that I'm using as longitudinal stiffeners on the hull sides. This is the top row. There will be a second row halfway down to the sole. when these are glassed in along with the transverse stiffeners the hull should be rock solid even without a liner. I hope that with the weight I'm adding will offset the reduced weight of composite materials and the liner that I tossed to keep the weight between 1800 and 2000 pounds.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stiffeners_Dryfit.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16019&title=lon-stiffeners-dryfit&cat=500)
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Id probably be more inclined to do just one row of those stiffeners, right in the middle.
Should be plenty stiff, the hullsides arent that tall. And less work, materials, fairing, easier to keep clean etc!
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Id probably be more inclined to do just one row of those stiffeners, right in the middle.
Should be plenty stiff, the hullsides arent that tall. And less work, materials, fairing, easier to keep clean etc!
You raise some really good points, Dirt. I'm rethinking. It's the old questions, kill v overkill? Perfect is the enemy of done. I'll take a look at it before I glass the planks in.
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Form follows function! But I think one row will "function" fine, and will be more aesthetically pleasing. Less work and materials being a bonus...
U will be fine with the vertical struts too im thinking....
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Thanks, Dirt. You helped me unblock my thinking on this. I'd been planning 2 rows for so long that I didn't see how much better one would be. At it's lowest the hull side is only 18" and other than a couple of feet forward it averages 19 1/2".
I decided to go with 1 row. I centered it 9" below the sheer. This puts it just a touch higher than midway and it looks great. In addition to all the advantages you mentioned, less work, materials, fairing, it also allowed me to place all joints between planks at vertical stiffeners which will mean even less work. I'm sure it will be plenty stiff too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Lon_Stiffener_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16035&title=lon-stiffener-2&cat=500)
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Awesome job man! Was thinking of a way to stiffen up the sides with a simple core job. Great ideas. I love your flat deck. Really makes you feel safe while fishing up front. Where did you get your Console hatch? did you make it?? I don't have that kind of skill in my shed!
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Looks good! I learn something new every day on this site.
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Where did you get your Console hatch? did you make it?? I don't have that kind of skill in my shed!
The hatch came from Boat Outfitters. They do custom hatches, tackle centers, etc. I'm sure I could build a hatch that would work, but the way they rout the hatch frame from a single piece of starboard, it would end up costing me almost as much in materials as buying ready made.
I have plans to get a tackle center for the transom, a fire extinguisher box and three hatches from them, so they'll be getting a fair share of my money.
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The Prisma Planks are slick. They went in easily. I was prepared with a bunch of clamps, but only needed to clamp 2 tricky spots. I applied epoxy to the hull side, wetted out the backs of the planks and waited about 20 minutes for things to tack up. Then they just pressed right into place and stuck tight against the hull. Finally, the fronts get wet out and the ears glassed into place. I did 2 plank sections at a time but could have managed more. The only tricky thing is, the backs are covered with a grey felted fabric, so there isn't a good visual on when they're saturated. Will likely prep the port side tomorrow and glass them in Monday.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Prisma_Planks_Wet_Out.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16036&title=lon-stiffeners-glassed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Starboard_Lon_Stiffener_Glassed_to_Hull.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16037&title=lon-stiffeners-glassed-in&cat=500)
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Still making progress. I put a wipe of fairing mix on the longitudinal planks and did a preliminary sand. The forward vertical stiffeners are tabbed in and filled with foam. I'm looking forward to the end of structural work. Then it will be a whole lotta sanding & fairing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Vertical_Stiffeners_Port.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16143&title=vertical-stiffeners-fw&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Vertical_Stiffeners.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16142&title=vertical-stiffeners-fw&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Vertical_Stiffeners_Foamed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16144&title=vertical-stiffeners-foamed&cat=500)
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I got the aft stiffeners/rod holders tabbed in today, and laid out the aft bulkhead. There will be a small tackle center flanked by access hatches. The hatches will make it easy to access the seacock for the livewell drain & fuel/water separater as well as trim tab connections and other stuff. The tackle center can be removed for rigging and access too. Coincidentally, the UPS driver arrived with the tackle center and hatches as I typed this.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rodholders:Stiffeners_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16150&title=rodholders-2fstiffeners-tabbed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rodholders:Stiffeners_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16151&title=rodholders-2fstiffeners-tabbed-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tackle_Center_Hatches.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16153&title=tackle-center&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Tackle_Center.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16152&title=tackle-center&cat=500)
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It's coming along!!
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All I can say is WOW and Thanks , You are doing a superb job . I have learned so much following your rebuild, something that can't be found anywhere else but here . This has got to be the best boat forum online , I am so inspired, I am thinking I may tackle my soft transom this winter and spring on my '92 210 Explorer. Bravo !!! I have one question ; Did you weigh your boat before you started the work and are you concerned about the weight now ? That's 2 questions .
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Thanks SteelHead. I did not weigh the boat before starting, though I would guess that it weighed more than the published 1900 pounds because of all the waterlogged wood and foam.
I am concerned about the weight. I don't want the boat to either gain or loose too much weight. I took out some weight in removing the liner, fuel tank coffin and through the use of foam and Coosa for the deck and transom. But I have added some back in the additional bulkheads and foam under the deck, plus the hull side stiffeners. My console and leaning post will weigh more than the original console and seating, and the bracket will add about 100 pounds. If the boat finishes out around 2000- 2200 pounds before I add the t top and hang the motor. I'll be pleased.
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Got the aft bulkhead tabbed in today, the front face anyway. For the joint on the deck, I fabricated an angle out of scrap glass and epoxy. Then bonded it to the underside of the deck. Its will serve to seal the foam on the rear edge of the deck and serve as an attachment point for the rear face. Since the deck ends right at the bulkhead, there was no real place to filet and tab back there. It required a lot of clamps to pull the bulkhead into a plane. Once the front face cures, I'll tab in the rear corners.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bulkhead_Ledge_Clamped.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16176&title=aft-bulkhead-ledge&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bulkhead_Ledge.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16175&title=aft-bulkhead-ledge&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bulkhead_Tabbed_Clamped.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16177&title=aft-bulkhead&cat=500)
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That was a good idea.
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2 fans :great02:
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2 fans :great02:
Hell yeah! It's hot out there :49:
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Today I tabbed in the fuel/wire chase/stiffeners into the hull. Next I'll core the cap, and I plan to fair and maybe prime the hull sides before I mate the hull and cap for the final time. I'm not looking forward to full 90 + degree days wearing Tyvek, but soon it will be unavoidable
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Chase:_Stiffener.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16178&title=fuel-chase-2f-stiffeners&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transverse_Stiffeners_Tabbed_In.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16179&title=fuel-chase-2f-stiffeners&cat=500)
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Just a little project today. I prepped and painted the anchor locker and aft bulkhead/ transom with Tile Clad. It will help to protect the glass; plus it's so much easier to see and works on things.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Painted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16202&title=anchor-locker-26amp-3b-transom-painted&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bulkhead_Painted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16201&title=anchor-locker-26amp-3b-transom-painted&cat=500)
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I want to eliminate as many toe stubbers as possible (size 14 feet). So, I decided to remove the exterior flange on my leaning post and go with an interior hidden flange like I put on my console. The thing is, I didn't want to loose even the inch of height that I would give up by trimming the flange off. I used some left over 2 part foam to create a sacrificial mold. I built a dam of poly covered cardboard to control the foam. Then I trimmed it back to fill in the hollow of the flange.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_Foam_Pour.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16278&title=leaning-post-foam&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_Foam1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16277&title=leaning-post-foam&cat=500)
Then I prepped the inside of the leaning post and tabbed down to poly covered melamine board to mould the flange. When cured, I trimmed back the flange.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_Flange_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16280&title=leaning-post-flange&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_Flange.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16279&title=leaning-post-flange&cat=500).
Then I cut off the old clunky flange and ground back the exterior to feather from o to full thickness removing all the foam in the process. Finally, I laid in multiple layers of 1708 to build the base back up. I'll still need to fair, prime and paint.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_Ext_Base.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16281&title=leaning-post-ext-base&cat=500)
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Things are finally returning to normal after Irma. My thoughts are with those who are still pulling their lives back together. For me and mine, Irma did no serious damage to home, hearth or boat. She did leave a boatload of leaves and branches in the CCP. Nothing lost but a little time to clean up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Irma_Presents.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16322&title=baitwell-manifold&cat=500)
Power is still out at my father's house where I keep the boat, so I had to busy myself with a smaller project. I molded a manifold for the Baitwell inflow. Water will enter the well through angled holes in the tank side creating a circular flow. Still need to fit the overflow, but when I'm done there will be nothing inside the well for bait to bump into.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Baitwell_Manifold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16321&title=baitwell-manifold&cat=500)
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Yeah I had 2 boats that looked like that - we dodged another bullet for sure.
The whole block across the street from me are without power still. A guy down the street had about 12 trees in the corner of his yard and they went down and took out the line which knocked out 20 homes. Bet he's not going to be on their Christmas card list this year ;)
Glad you fared ok through the storm - she was strong, the bands were strong. We had 100+mph winds here in Sarasota - gusts anyway and they are the ones that do the damage.
Check out this thread
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=14467.new#new
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I built a set of cradles and a ladder style strong back to keep the cap in shape. I set up a baton to refine the lines of the coaming. Then I routed everything back to smooth, fair and symmetrical curves. In the next couple of days, I'll bond in the coring for the cap, carbon core for cleats, rod holders and other areas that I'll through bolt and airex where compression strength isn't a big deal. Then, I'll encapsulate the core. When the cap and hull get mated, I'll be at the end of the major glass work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cradles_Strongback.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16405&title=cap-26amp-3b-cradles&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Batton_Coaming.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16404&title=cap-26amp-3b-cradles&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fare_Curve.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16406&title=coaming-routed-to-a-fare-curve&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fare_Curve_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16407&title=coaming-routed-to-a-fare-curve&cat=500)
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I got the cap cored and the core encapsulated. The core is carbon core in places where cleats, rod holders and the grab rail will mount. I used the lighter weight airex in less critical places. I encapsulated with two layers of 12 oz biax with a layer of 1708 on the bottom to distribute stress. Squadrons of love bugs did play kamikaze as encapsulated things. There was nothing I could do to keep them out. Oh well the boat was never going to be vegan anyway.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Cored_and_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16418&title=cap-cored-26amp-3b-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Cored_Glassed_From_Stern.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16417&title=cap-cored-26amp-3b-glassed&cat=500)
While I was at it I tabbed in a couple of lightweight PVC chases for nav lights and speaker wires.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Wire_Chase.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16421&title=cap-chase&cat=500)
As built there were polyurethane planks glassed to the high sides of the cap. they were barely dusted with chopper gun glass and had deteriorated badly. I debated just glassing over them, but decided to pull them out and replace with the same Prisma planks that I used to stiffen the hull sides.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_w_Prisma_Planks.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16419&title=cap-w-prisma-planks&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Prisma_Planks_Cap.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16420&title=cap-w-prisma-planks&cat=500)
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Looks great :great02: Love the anchor mount.
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I wouldnt wanna play bumper boats with ya ! :great02:
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I wouldnt wanna play bumper boats with ya ! :great02:
Yeah, it's definitely a bit of overkill, but I hate when boats rattle & shudder when they drop off a wave. I want the hull/deck connection to be solid.
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Coming along nicely! :thumright:
Waiting to see that bracket mounted. Do you have a date in mind for the maiden voyage?
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Thanks Blue. Major glasswork is almost finished. Then it's on to sanding, fairing, primeing and paint. I'm hopeing for a launch in January or February, but the target has been pushed back three times. When I started the project, I hoped for a May, 2017 launch. That got pushed back to August, then October. It always takes longer and costs more than you think. One thing's for sure; I'll have her ready for dolphin in the spring.
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Preaching to the choir my friend, been there done that. I can tell you it's all worth it in the end. As they say, "Chop your own wood, it will warm you twice!". Keep at it, the end is near. :thumright:
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On Sunday, I lined up some help and we flipped the cap and fit it to the hull. It's more of a dry fit at this point, because there was a delay in getting the methcrylate adhesive that I'm using for the hull deck joint. While I had a crew, we also moved the boat to an enclosure with walls. I'm also in the process of laying down PT plywood as a deck under the boat. I want to be able to keep the boat clean as I get closer of finish work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Hull_Together_Again.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16442&title=cap-26amp-3b-core-together-again&cat=500)
The Methacrylate came in yesterday, so I did a trial run using it to bond in the lip that will support the anchor hanger & hatch.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Rim.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16441&title=cap-26amp-3b-core-together-again&cat=500)
With the cool weather today, I decided to break out the Tyvek suit and tackled a rough sand for the cap. It's close to profile now. I need to knock down high spots and make the shinny spots go away. Then it will be on to fairing mix.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sanding_Dust.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16443&title=sanding-dust&cat=500)
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Inspirational. Keep it up.
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Looking fantastic. That thing is gonna be solid as a rock.
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Very nice work :thumleft:
How did the Methacrylate work? Can you clean the gun? Do they give you a few nozzles?
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Very nice work :thumleft:
How did the Methacrylate work? Can you clean the gun? Do they give you a few nozzles?
The methacrylate was great.. easy to apply. I was concerned that it would be difficult to squease it through the mixing tip, but it was easy. The hatch rim is rock solid. I plan to bond the hull/deck joint tomorrow. No need to clean the gun. It works like a caulking gun, only with two plungers. The nozzles are easily replaceable. No they don't give you any, but they're only about a buck each. I bought spares. The tubes have a threaded collar and a plug. As long as you don't mix things up , you can remove the nozzle, and reseal to use the tube.
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With the lip in and rock solid, I dropped in the anchor hanger, and did a first fit of the hatch for the anchor locker. I'll leave the hanger loose until rigging is complete, then I'll probably just use 3M UV 4000 to bond it in. That way, I could remove it, if necessary, in the future.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Lip.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16512&title=anchor-locker-hatch&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Hanger.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16510&title=anchor-locker-hatch&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Hatch_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16511&title=anchor-locker-hatch&cat=500)
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Very nice!
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First the good. I took the time to measure out the cockpit sole and compare to the dimensions of the sole with liner in place. I gained a lot of walk space. The maximum width with liner was 70". The max without liner is 79". Even measured at the aft stiffeners, the max increased to 73". The measurement at the aft edge of the console even with the fuel chase stayed the same at 69", so it looks like i gained a lot of foot room.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/200CCP_Dimensioned_Sole.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16521&title=200ccp-sole-dim&cat=500)
Now the not so good. I must have made an error in measurements, so I have a gap at the shoe box hull/deck seam of nearly a half inch. The gap tapers from 0 out to just under a 1/2" then back to 0 over a distance of 10', and with my newly recored cap, screws won't pull it in. It's my first major screwup on the rebuild. :41:
The forward half of the hull is permanently bonded so my options are limited. :think:
Right now, the plan is to fabricate a tapered spacer to fill the gap, and finish bonding the cap to the hull. Then depending on how it looks, I may need to build up the hull deck seam forward in order to create a fair curve bow to stern. Everything is symmetrical and won't affect performance, but it will cost me an extra few days, plus some additional fairing. One small plus may be that by increasing the width of the lip, it might knock down a bit more spray.
Am I missing anything?
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Might be able to cut some reliefs in the cap and pinch it back? Which would require beveling and glassing the reliefs after of course but might be less work than filling the gap?
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Would be something like this, only I'd use a strip of glass.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oDwrV8X6uCs
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Should work fine. Rubrail should cover the bulge, only you will know its there :thumright:
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Did you purchase the drop in anchor hanger? If so where did you get it?
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I made a mold out of Melamine covered particle board and glassed over it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15260&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Molded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15261&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Liner_Trimmed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15321&title=anchor-locker-trimmed&cat=500)
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Been chipping away at the CCP. I added gussets forward to support the the wide gunwales. Additionally I glassed the inside of the hull deck seam and filleted and tabbed in the forward and aft bulkheads. The work took a while. Plus it was all the fun of doing glasswork upside down in tight spaces. Yay, another few things checked off.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Gusetts.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16595&title=gussets-bulkheads-tabbed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Hull_Deck_Seam.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16597&title=hull-deck-seam-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Deck_Seam_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16596&title=gussets-bulkheads-tabbed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bulkhead_Tabbed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16594&title=gussets-bulkheads-tabbed&cat=500)
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Any progress is good progress!! Looks stout.
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The saga of the hull/deck seam is in it's final chapter. You may recall that my glassed and cored top cap was so rigid that I was left with a 6' long gap that tapered from 0 to 1/2" and back to 0 on the aft sides. Filling the gap and bonding the cap to hull was no problem, but it gave me an un-fair curve along the sheer. I probably could have found a rub rail that would have covered the problem, but I had already purchased a semi-rigid vinyl rail with stainless insert. I still kick myself. Had I just taken 2 more measurements. . . .
I used PVC board to build out the hull side of the sheer and give me a level surface to work with.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Ext_Hull_Deck_Spacer_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16733&title=hull-deck-spacer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Ext_Hull_Deck_Spacer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16732&title=hull-deck-spacer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Ext_Hull_Deck_Spacer_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16731&title=hull-deck-spacer&cat=500)
Then I epoxied 3/4" by 2 1/4" strips of PVC to build out the sheer. This was shaped out to a fair curve from bow to stern. Then I built up the top of the strip to mimic the cap overlap, so my rub rail would sit level.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Built_Up_Sheer_Port_Side.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16735&title=built-up-sheer-port-side&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Build_Up_at_Sheer_From_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16734&title=build-up-at-sheer-from-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rubrail_Trial_Fit_at_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16736&title=rubrail-trial-fit-at-bow&cat=500)
I added filets to create smooth transitions for glass. A 4" filet forward into the hull gives the boat a bit more flare and should knock down a little more spray.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sheer_Bow_Fillet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16737&title=sheer-bow-fillet&cat=500)
Finally, everything is glassed over with 12 oz Biax. The new sheer is little clunky, but its fair from bow to stern, and the look has grown on me.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glassed_Sheer_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16738&title=glassed-sheer-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glassed_Sheer_Bow_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16739&title=glassed-sheer-bow-quarter&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Glassed_Sheer_View_from_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16740&title=glassed-sheer-view-from-aft&cat=500)
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The end results looks good.
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Will look nice with the rubrail on it :great02:
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Sanding is my life. I love it. :weehee:
Not much to see in the pictures, but I've put in a few good days. I have glass laminations on the sheer feathered in to the cap and hull. All the old paint is sanded off the hull sides and cap with everything down to clean gel coat or glass. Plus, the new glass in the sheer is sanded to a point where the threads and most of the shiny spots are gone.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sheer_Sanded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16763&title=hull-2c-cap-and-sheer-sanded-clean&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Sanded_Clean.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16761&title=hull-2c-cap-and-sheer-sanded-clean&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Side_Sanded_Clean.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16762&title=hull-2c-cap-and-sheer-sanded-clean&cat=500)
I also did a quick test. The bottom of the hull between the chines is painted black. I don't believe that it is bottom paint, but I want it gone. I applied some left over water based paint striper. After it sat for 3 hours, a presser washer knocked most of the old paint off. Hopefully I can save some prep time on the hull bottom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Stripped.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16764&title=trial-bottom-stripping&cat=500)
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Your boat is looking good man - keep on her. (And I hate sanding now after a few years of it)
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(And I hate sanding now after a few years of it)
Yeah, I kind of despise it too. Just trying to stay motivated. I do like the results, though.
I got the first wipe of fairing blend on the transom cap, and got it sanded down smooth. I need to play with my ratio of microballoons, silica and resin a bit. My sander tended to grab and chatter more than i'd like. I think I need more balloons.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/First_Fairing_Transom_Cap_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16798&title=first-fairing-transom-cap-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/First_Fairing_Transom_Cap_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16796&title=first-fairing-transom-cap-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/First_Fairing_Transom_Cap_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16795&title=first-fairing-transom-cap-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/First_Fairing_Transom_Cap_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16797&title=first-fairing-transom-cap-2&cat=500)
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What sander you using??
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What sander you using??
For this job a Bosch dual mode 6” sander on the setting for fast stock removal. It tended to grab. I also used a 7” Makita polisher/sander with a flat hook and loop backing pad on low speed. The 7” rotary worked well, but the 6” RO wanted to grab.
I would add that either work well when sanding FRP. It’s just this fairing mix.
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Hmmm usually its the other way around :scratch:
Might not be cured enough? Looks damn good by the way!
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Making Dust
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Making_Dust.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16822&title=making-dust&cat=500)
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:thumright:
Keep at it, it'll be done soon. Are you painting or gelcoating the inside? (you probably already told us 5 times)
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:thumright:Are you painting or gelcoating the inside? (you probably already told us 5 times)
Going to be painted, Quantum 2 part polyurethane in Matterhorn White, with light gray non-skid.
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On breaks between sanding, I got started on rebuilding the coffin box. It's lined with 2" urethane foam with 2lb pour foam filling out and forming the radius for the fillets in the corners. I'll be away from the boat for a few days, but when I'm back, I'll glass the interior, build as mold for the lid and build out mating lips on the lid & box - in between sanding, of course.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_PVC_Mold_for_Foam.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16828&title=coffin-box-foam-fillet&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Foam_Fillet.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16826&title=coffin-box-foam-fillet&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Foam_Fillet_Trimmed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16827&title=coffin-box-foam-fillet&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Interior_Ready_for_Glass.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16829&title=coffin-box-interior-ready-for-glass&cat=500)
I also glued in glass backing blocks for the hinges, latches and the screws to secure the box to the sole.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Glass_Blocks_for_Hinges.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16830&title=glass-blocks&cat=500)
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Nice! You'll be ready to hire yourself out after this. :idea:
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I just picked up a new set of wheels for the old girl, torsion axels, Kodiak brakes all stainless hardware and LCD lighting. I'm not sure if it only comes with the premium option package, but I was surprised that all the wire connections used adhesive lined heat shrink.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/New_Trailer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16854&title=trailer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Kodiak_Brakes_Torsion_Axels.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16853&title=trailer&cat=500)
Just for comparison, here's the trailer I brought her home with. I got the rig from Daytona to Orlando, put the boat on stands. Then one of the wheels fell off as I pushed the trailer out of the way.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Trailer_Wheel_Off.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16855&title=trailer&cat=500)
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That trailer is killer. The Force was with you on the ride home with other one.
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That'll carry her in style :thumleft:
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I'm continuing to chip away at the coffin box. The box itself is glassed with a first fairing done. I built a melamine mold for the lid and laid up the outer skin. Then I shaped a piece of 2" foam to fill the lid and bonded it in place with thickened resin and a layer of CSM. Finally when all was cured, I trimmed things up and filled a few voids around the outside of the foam with 2 part foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Glassed_1_Fairing.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16915&title=coffin-box-cont&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Lid_in_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16917&title=coffin-box-cont&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Lid_Foam_Shaped.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16916&title=coffin-box-cont&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Foam_Bonded_in_Lid.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16918&title=coffin-box-lid-foam&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Lid_Foam_Installed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16919&title=coffin-box-lid-foam&cat=500)
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:thumleft: Nice work.
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:thumleft:
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I glued in 1/4" x 1/2" strips of Airex Foam to form mating lips on the lid and box bottom. When finished the lips will overlap with a gasket strip on the lid to help keep fish cold. The Interior of the coffin lid was glassed while still in the mold. Glassing the lip was a pain in the ***, but I hope it will be worthwhile. Makes me wish I had a vacuum bagging system.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Lower_Lip.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16960&title=coffin-box-lip&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Lid_Lip.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16959&title=coffin-box-lip&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Lid_Interior_Glassed_with_Lip.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16958&title=coffin-box-lip&cat=500)
With the lid out of the mold and trimmed up, it fits pretty well. The lid did shrink just a bit from the mold dimensions. Even so, I think the mold will save me a lot of finish work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Lid_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16961&title=coffin-lid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Lid_on_Box.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16962&title=coffin-lid&cat=500)
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Nice!!
Have you thought about a way to "dam" off the chest so you can have cooler and also dry storage?
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Nice!!
Have you thought about a way to "dam" off the chest so you can have cooler and also dry storage?
Over here on the East Coast, we need the ability to ice down a long fish, so I have no plan to divide the box. The box should accommodate all but the largest dolphin and up to an average size wahoo, so I’ll still need to use a fish bag for some fish, knock on wood.
There should be no shortage of storage, at least compared to a stock CCP. There’s in deck storage forward of the coffin that is actually larger than the coffin. There will be storage under the seat on the leaning post. There will be a tackle locker in the stern bulkhead, plus storage for fire extinguisher, lines and other frequently used items tucked into under utilized spaces.
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Geez, I hope you catch something bigger than the coffin - I hope I catch that too. I've never launched on that coast.
Sounds like the dry storage is all worked out. Lookin' good bud.
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Here's a picture from a few years ago, my dad with an average 35-40 lb Wahoo. This one was caught on my old Pro-Line 231. You can see the need for Long fish boxes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Wahoo_Dad.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16963&title=dad-with-wahoo&cat=500)
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Yes sir. Nice fish - the greyhounds of the sea. Looks like he is sitting on a 100+ qt cooler.
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Looks like he is sitting on a 100+ qt cooler.
I think it was the 125 Igloo, the only way I could fit a cecent fish box on that boat. Even so needed a fish bag for anything decent sized.
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Just a couple of additions too the coffin. I glassed the lower lip and glassed the bottom of the box. The original box had exposed foam at the fill holes, not sure if this was standard practice or "Friday boat stuff."
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Bottom_Lip_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16965&title=coffin-box-bottom&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box_Bottom_Glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16964&title=coffin-box-bottom&cat=500)
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My May has been crazy busy. I guess having too much work is a good problem to have, but I'm glad things are settling down. I put some epoxy fairing compound on the dash and instrument panel area of the console and worked on getting a pleasing radius on the corners. The big radius was good for wrapping glass around, but this is better looking. I hope to get high build on the console and leaning post by sometime next week. Then i'll step up work on the cap and hull sides.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Dash_Instrument_Panel_Faired.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17071&title=console-faired&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Faired.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17072&title=console-faired&cat=500)
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That is looking real good. very much looking forward to seeing it in paint (or gel).
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Taking baby steps. I got the console and leaning post prepped and covered in high build. The primer shows some spots that still need fairing. It's nice to have everything a single color, even if it is temporary.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_High_Build.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17122&title=console-and-leaning-post-high-build&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_and_Leaning_Post_High_Build.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17123&title=console-and-leaning-post-high-build&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Instrument_Panel_High_Build.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17125&title=instrument-panel-high-build&cat=500)
I decided to make a couple of changes in the leaning post from my original plan. The center rod holders stuck down into the bait well far enough that they would injure bait fish, so I am replacing with cupholders. I would never be happy with only two rod holders on the leaning post, so I filled the outer rod holder holes. I'm getting a back rest/rocket launcher welded up for the leaning post. This gets me back to 4 rods on the leaning post. The wife got a vote too. She likes the idea of a back rest. Considering that this is going to be a spartan fishing boat, I don't mind indulging her. Shhh! it's about the rod holders.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_High_Build.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17124&title=console-and-leaning-post-high-build&cat=500)
I've settled on the layout for the instrument panel. It will have 2 Lowrance Gen 3 displays, Fusion Radio, Standard Horizon VHF, New Wire Marine Switch Panel and the control for a RayMarine Autopilot.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Instrument_Panel_Layout.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17126&title=instrument-panel-high-build&cat=500)
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They are looking awesome.
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I got my console and leaning post painted in Materhorn White. I used Quantum 2 part polyurethane top coat and rolled on 3 coats sanding between. I don't have a clean space to paint in, so I ended up with some dust and minor surface imperfections that I'll need to wet sand/polish out. Overall I'm pleased.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_White.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17237&title=console-paint&cat=500)
I also did a dry fit of my electronics, helm, shifter and other console accessories. I couldn't help myself.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Helm_Instruments_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17238&title=console-paint&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Leaning_Post_White.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17239&title=console-26amp-3b-leaning-post-white&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Leaning_Post_Paint_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17240&title=console-26amp-3b-leaning-post-white-2&cat=500)
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Damn that looks good. Really taking shape now.
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:great02:
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Looks great! Good job! I thought you sprayed the paint.
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:01_37:
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I used chemical stripper (Jamestown Distributors Total Boat) to remove as much of then black paint on the bottom as I could. It actually did a pretty good job only leaving discolored gel and a few spots. I applied at the beginning of the day, waited 3-4 hours and pressure washed the paint away. It took about 10 hours total spread over 2 days. Then another 8 hours of sanding left me with a clean gel bottom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Bottom_Stripped_Sanded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17344&title=hull-bottom-stripped-and-sanded&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Bottom_Stripped_Sanded_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17345&title=hull-bottom-stripped-and-sanded&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Bottom_Stripped_Sanded_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17346&title=hull-bottom-stripped-and-sanded&cat=500)
Overall, the bottom isn't in too bad of shape. There are a some scratches and gouges that will require filling. It looks like some voids in the forward strake were filled with an epoxy compound, but it looks tight. There is also about 3 feet of keel rash in the stem that was camouflaged by the black paint. I'll need to glass and fair the stem.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Strake_Filled_Voids.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17348&title=strake-voids-keel-rash&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Strake_Filled_Voids_Closeup.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17349&title=strake-voids-keel-rash&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Keel_Rash.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17347&title=strake-voids-keel-rash&cat=500)
While the paint stripper worked its magic, I spent some time fairing the transom as well as over drilling, epoxy filling and re-drilling for the bracket bolts. It's a bit of overkill with the composite transom, but it will be rock solid and water tight.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transome_Faired.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17351&title=transom-faired-bracket-bolts&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Bolts_Over_Drilled_Filled.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17350&title=transom-faired-bracket-bolts&cat=500)
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Nice progress!
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Decide on a hull color yet?!
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Decide on a hull color yet?!
Hull will be Kingston Gray. Cap and interior will be Matterhorn White, with gray nonskid. Maybe it’s because of my 85 170 AS, but I’ve allways had a thing for these hulls in gray.
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The color scheme they had was nice.
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I just read through this from start to finish. Awesome work! How do you like the prisma forms? I don't have a liner and will be looking for something to stiffen up the hull sides as well.
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Thanks Mike, I like the Prizma planks a lot. They’re easy to work with, and they definitely stiffen up the hull sides. As for cost, I compared them to ripping planks of foam plus a layer of 17 oz biax, and they weren’t too much more. The boat is solid, and I’m confident that when it drops off a wave, there will be none of the rattling, you get from some boats.
Of course, now that I’m faced with fairing around all the stiffeners, I do find myself wondering about coreing the hull sides. I chose not to out of concern with bonding the core to the hull without vacuum bagging. That would have left me with flat surface to fair. Oh well, I have zero concern about the bonding of the planks.
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Cool, thanks for the info. I was considering coring the whole side as well but have the same concerns about the bonding. Lots to consider but luckily I have some time before I get to that step.
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It's the little things. Birdsall texted me a couple of photos of my backrest. They start on my T top on Tuesday.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Backrest_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17375&title=leaning-post-backrest&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Backrest_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17376&title=leaning-post-backrest&cat=500)
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Sweet! Unique design, Looks like the same pic though ;-)
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Good eyes, Rick. Fixed it.
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Picked up my T Top and Leaning Post today. They turned out great, solidly engineered and good looking too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_T_Top_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17435&title=leaning-post-26amp-3b-t-top&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_T_Top_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17436&title=leaning-post-26amp-3b-t-top&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_T_Top_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17437&title=leaning-post-26amp-3b-t-top&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Leaning_Post_T_Top_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17438&title=leaning-post-26amp-3b-t-top&cat=500)
As far as the boat goes, I've been filling gouges and prepping the bottom, but I've hit a bit of a snag, 2 snags really. Number 1, there is a but of a hollowing of the hull aft, not a full hook. The keel and chines are strait, but there are 1/8" deep hollows in the v portion of the hull for about 3' aft. Number 2, There are quite a number of tiny voids in the gel coat. They're not blisters in that they don't bubble up. They're like little chips where the gel coat flakes off leaving a small void. I've been treating them like blisters, dremeling them out and filling with cabosil & epoxy mix. The problem is that every time I sand the filled sections flat, new voids appear. I'm debating weather to continue to address these problems from under the boat, or flip the hull to focus un the bottom.
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T-top and leaning post look great - the T-top seems huge.
If you have any desire to flip the boat, now is the time to do it. It'll make working the bottom so much easier.
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T-top and leaning post look great - the T-top seems huge.
If you have any desire to flip the boat, now is the time to do it. It'll make working the bottom so much easier. :tease1:
Yeah the top is on the large side for a 20 footer. I wanted plenty of shade, and I hate the look of a top that is too small. I think with the high gunwales on the CCP, the top should be in scale to the boat.
I am definitely leaning toward the flip. It will make getting the bottom right, so much easier. I want it right the first time. I’m thinking about a gantry. Rick, I checked out your flip on your 170, but I couldn’t figure out what you did with the hoists.
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I'm not sure what you mean - "with the hoists".
Making gantries are pretty simple - I used 2x8 PT. The key during any flip is to make sure the lifting point/weight is directly under gantries.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/Sarasota-20121111-00053.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16434&title=sarasota-20121111-00053&cat=646)
On the front I had an old cable winch and the front just raises and lowers, on the back I bought a couple chain falls at Harbor Freight (I'll give you a great deal on them). I crossed the chain falls in the aft connecting to each eye.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1422.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11560&title=cimg1422&cat=646)
You start by lifting the boat and once all the points have been lifted to clear everything (I actually had to pull the trailer out to get enough clearance) then the work begins and all the work is done in the aft. You let one chainfall out as you take in the other and the front lift point just follows what you're doing. I put a blanket around the cable to protect the boat up front.
The flip goes easy and pretty quickly using the chainfalls.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1426.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11564&title=cimg1426&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1429.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11567&title=cimg1429&cat=646)
You have to plan the support system that you'll land the boat back on - I supported the sole and stringers from the inside and on top of the trailer
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1430.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11568&title=cimg1430&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1431.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11569&title=cimg1431&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1432.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11570&title=cimg1432&cat=646)
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Fast forward and the bottom and hull sides are done
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1537.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12860&title=cimg1537&cat=646)
This time I used an engine mount hole to lift and then we spun the boat from a center point - seemed to be easier
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1541.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12864&title=cimg1541&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1538.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12861&title=cimg1538&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1539.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12862&title=cimg1539&cat=646)
All back upright
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1544.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12867&title=cimg1544&cat=646)
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Thanks, Rick that’s really helpful. So the single eyebolt for a pick point worked better than the crossed chains. I’m thinking I could use my bracket holes to bolt a 2x8 across my transom and rig an eyebolt. I’d need to beef things up a bit for the close to 2k weight of the CCP. Did the overhang at the bow cause any problems for you?
I may take you up on the chain hoists. Though getting them from Tampa to Orlando might be the costly bit.
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I may take you up on the chain hoists. Though getting them from Tampa to Orlando might be the costly bit.
Maybe not as much as you think.
Send him a PM, he just might be in the center of the State in the near future but I'm not sure when. You might be able to hook up.
Worth a try.
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Yeah my 170 is probably lighter than when it had all that wood coring in it - maybe not. I would say under a grand.
Maybe check out a close by boat yard that already has metal gantries and see what they would charge you?
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I'm at that stage where I'm putting it on then sanding most of it off. I've been working on fairing the cap, and after about 4 passes with fairing compound I'm getting close. Applied some tracer and took a long board too the aft cap, and it's looking pretty good.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Aft_Cap_Gunwales.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17697&title=fairing-aft-cap&cat=500)
I still have a few lows to fill in the transom cap and along the gunwales. This tracer makes the lows obvious.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Caps_Some_Lows.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17699&title=fairing-aft-cap&cat=500)
I put corners along the aft gunwales. Once I get all the plains fair, I'll hit them with a block to create a radius that matches the Aquasport radius forward.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Starboard_Gunwale_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17698&title=fairing-aft-cap&cat=500)
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I am always excited to see these projects going into the cosmetics stages. They are like what once was a rough stone about to come out of the polisher. I have a feeling this thing is going to be a gem.
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I am always excited to see these projects going into the cosmetics stages. They are like what once was a rough stone about to come out of the polisher. I have a feeling this thing is going to be a gem.
Thanks for the kind words and confidence, Funsmith. It is good to have moved past the major glass work. I’m beginning to see the light. I have to confess though, I wouldn’t be disappointed if elves snuck in and finished all my fairing overnight.
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I put two coats of high build on the cap. It took two days because it rained late in the day on Thursday. With a day off for work, I sanded the first layer with 120 grit before re-coating. There are a few pin holes that will require attention, plus the primer revealed some sections along the aft gunwales that will require additional fairing. The plan is to finish that work up, build a couple of gantries and assemble the team for the flip. I'll finish painting the cap after the flip and hull bottom work..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17784&title=cap-high-build-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Bow_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17786&title=cap-high-build-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Anchor_Locker.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17783&title=cap-high-build-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17785&title=cap-high-build-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Stern_Quarter.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17787&title=cap-high-build-bow&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Interior_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17788&title=cap-high-build-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_High_Build_Interior_Forward.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17789&title=cap-high-build-interior&cat=500)
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Yep, those dastardly pin holes.
Looking good Sir!
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After nearly two weeks of traveling and work commitments, I got back to work on the CCP. I did a final fair on the aft gunwales. You have to look closely at the photo in my earlier post, but there was a wavering in the outwale. A little prep, some fairing compound, a little sanding and it"s gone.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Gunwale_Final_Fair_Compound.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17842&title=aft-gunwale-final-fair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Gunwale_Final_Fair_Sanding.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17844&title=aft-gunwale-final-fair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Gunwale_Final_Fair_Primer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17843&title=aft-gunwale-final-fair&cat=500)
I also got a start on the gantries that I will use to flip the boat. Here is one set of uprights and a beam. I used double 2x12 lumber with spacers for the beam and the same construction with 2x8 lumber for the uprights.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Gantry_Beam_and_Uprights.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17845&title=gantry-beam-and-uprights&cat=500)
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Nice work Michael.
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The CCP is now upside down, for the last time in it's life. Knock on wood. The setup took longer than the actual flip. Now I can blueprint and fair the hollows, plus prep and paint the bottom, all while standing upright.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17856&title=flip-a&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17857&title=flip-a&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17858&title=flip-a&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17859&title=flip-b&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_5.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17860&title=flip-b&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_6.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17861&title=flip-b&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_7.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17863&title=flip-c&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_8.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17864&title=flip-c&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_9.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17865&title=flip-c&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Flip_10.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17862&title=flip-c&cat=500)
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Those gantries look super stout!! The chain falls make everything so easy.
What did you build to support the boat inside the shed?
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Those gantries look super stout!! The chain falls make everything so easy.
What did you build to support the boat inside the shed?
It’s back on boat stands.
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I went to work on the hook. The chines and keel were strait, but there were hollows of about 1/4" in the flat panels aft. I marked and ground the gel coat off the area. Then I filled the hollows with from 1 to 4 layers of 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hook_Ground_to_Clean_Glass.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17919&title=hook-repair&cat=500)
After cured, I marked the high spots and ground them down to reasonably fair. I could have been a little more precise in fitting the glass, so it took quite a bit of work to knock things down. I started using a strait edge and marker to identify the highs. My 7" grinder with a 40 grit disk made fast work of the rough work. Then I applied a tracer, and used my long board to mark the high spots. Then, my 6" DA brought everything close. There are some hollows of less than 1/16" deep.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hook_High_Spots_Marked.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17920&title=hook-repair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hook_Knocking_Down_High_Spots.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17921&title=hook-knocking-down-high-spots&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hook_Knocking_Down_High_Spots_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17922&title=hook-knocking-down-high-spots&cat=500)
The plan for the next few days clean and prep the bottom. Then to apply a coat of VC Performance Epoxy, as a primer, between the chines. Next I'll do a final fair with Interprotect Water Tight. After the bottom is fair it will be three more coats of VC. This is the prep sequence Interlux recommends for their products. With luck, I'll move on to fair, prep and paint the hull sides soon.
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Looking good, I am getting excited for you. While mine is under cover for the winter, I have to live vicariously through you guys.
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Good progress Michael. Getting a good upper body workout, I remember.
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Almost done with the itchy dust! :great02:
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Here's an update on the hull bottom. The hook is ready to fair, but there are countless tiny voids in the gelcoat. I can fill them, but every time I sand the filler down more appear.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Gelm_Voids_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17927&title=gel-voids&cat=500)
After consulting some gurus, thanks dirt, I've decided to sand off the gelcoat on the bottom, and seal with epoxy before fairing the bottom. It's more work than I'd like, but at least I'm not doing it upside down.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stripping_Gelcoat.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17934&title=stripping-bottom-gelcoat&cat=500)
The glass underneath is clean and looks like it was properly wet out. That's good news. There's a good layer of CSM as a print through barrier.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Clean_Glass.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17932&title=stripping-bottom-gelcoat&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Clean_Glass_Bottom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17933&title=stripping-bottom-gelcoat&cat=500)
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I ran into the same thing and used top end fiberglass bondo. You have to find an automotive supply and talk to them and see if you can get a deal as an "experimenter".
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Thanks, Rick. Not to sure about Bondo below the waterline. I’ll probably stick with epoxy, either Jamestown’s Total Fair or Awlfair. What the hey; it’s only money.
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Yup!
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Hey Mike, U.S. Composites is in your backyard. Their fairing compound to add to epoxy is pretty good stuff and reasonable. $12.25 for 5 quarts! Your progress is pretty awesome and is almost inspiring me to head out to my garage in the 30degree F weather and keep at it, almost! Burrr!I also discovered the same flaky and pitted gelcoat underneath all the bottom paint once removed. Same deal the fiberglass still looks ok once I sanded away the gelcoat, glass not pitted! Cheers T
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Thanks, Fish. I’ve been getting my supplies from Gulfstream Composites. Joel Has competitive prices, and he offers free shipping on orders over $200. He’s in Vero, so I even saved freight by picking up my core materials myself.
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Content Warning!!!!!!!!!!!!
The images that follow are graphic in nature. They push the limits of boat porn, and once seen, cannot be unseen.
:shock: :greybouncey: roflmao
Naked Aquasport Bottom
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Stripped_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17940&title=bottom-stripped&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Stripped_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17941&title=bottom-stripped&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Stripped_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17942&title=bottom-stripped&cat=500)
And, here's her backside!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Stripped_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17943&title=bottom-stripped&cat=500)
The bottom is stripped clean of gelcoat. I gave her a detergent scrub too. Depending on what the weather does, the plan is to seal with epoxy (1layer stock, 1 layer thickened with phenolic micro balloons) ether tomorrow or Saturday. Then it will be on to fairing.
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Nice work Michael - something I will never do again ;-)
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I got the bottom sealed with 2 coats of epoxy. The first layer was un-thickened, and the second layer was mixed to a slurry with phenolic micro balloons and a bit of silica.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Epoxy_Sealer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17952&title=as-bottom-work&cat=500)
When cured, the mix sanded easily, especially compared with stripping off the gelcoat. I got 2/3s of the bottom stuffed up in the time it took me to strip about 4 feet of gel.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/All_Scuffed_Up.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17951&title=as-bottom-work&cat=500)
Then, I applied Awlfair to the aft 6' of hull. Tomorrow, I hope to begin sanding, but, we'll see what the weather allows.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17953&title=as-bottom-work&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Bottom_Fairing.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17950&title=as-bottom-work&cat=500)
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Coming along nicely. I wouldn't hold your breath on the weather cooperating tomorrow.
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Coming along nicely. I wouldn't hold your breath on the weather cooperating tomorrow.
Maybe bring a snorkel?
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Probably not the worst idea lol. I'm more worried about my cheapy harbor freight carport blowing away!
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Took the longboard to the fairing mix aft. After a couple of hours work, everything was down to reasonably fair with some low spots. I scuffed up the low spots and laid down a bit more awlfair. Tomorrow, I hope to have things close aft. Then I'll start working forward.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Longboard_Aft_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17956&title=longboard-aft&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Longboard_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17954&title=longboard-aft&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Longboard_Aft_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17955&title=longboard-aft&cat=500)
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Lookin' good Michael.
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looks like fun to me, nice work!
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Still making dust and moving forward with the awlfair.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Making_Dust_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17959&title=making-dust&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Making_Dust_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17960&title=making-dust&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Awlfair_Forward.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17958&title=making-dust&cat=500)
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Got colors chose yet??
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Yup, Kingston Gray hull and non-skid, Matterhorn white cap & interior. The paint is waiting for me, a new Mercury 150 Four Stroke too. I just need to get busy.
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The bottom is still pink, but it's getting closer. Four days of pushing the longboard left my arms feeling like jello, so I took a break from sanding yesterday. I decided to layout and attach the terminals, fuses, ACR, battery switch and NMEA backbone in my console.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_09081.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17975&title=console-electrics&cat=500)
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Nice - changing your focus is good sometimes.
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Got the bottom pretty close to fair and smooth, at least as far as I could tell without it being one color. First coat of epoxy primer is on, and things look pretty good. I'll get a second coat on tomorrow. Then, I'll give it a good inspection for any areas that require additional fairing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Fair_Port.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17979&title=bottom-fair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Fair_Stbd.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17980&title=bottom-fair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Primer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17981&title=bottom-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Primer_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17984&title=bottom-primer-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Primer_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17982&title=bottom-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Primer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17983&title=bottom-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Primer_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17985&title=bottom-primer-2&cat=500)
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Looks good Michael :thumleft:
Are you using VC for paint on the bottom? If so, did you consider running it up the hull sides and transom 6" or so to cover the water line? That's what I did and then sprayed the hull sides paint. You can see the extra build up along the water line but it is epoxy sealed.
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That is looking really nice. The wiring is coming along nicely as well. I'm not looking forward to the longboarding phase. I checked out the pneumatic ones but my compressor doesn't put out near the psi that's required and I'm sure my neighbors wouldn't want to listen to it run all day anyways.
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Thanks, Rick. I considered varying the VMC all the way up to the waterline, but I’m just going to keep it from the chines down. The hull sides will be sealed with epoxy primer, and Tom at Quantum told me their PU was good for up to a week of submersion as long as it’s cleaned well after. That’s the longest I’d leave it in the water for Keys trips and similar. I chose the VMC Performance as much for long term protection where the trailer bunks will trap and hold water next to the hull, as anything.
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it gets quite shiny when wet sanded down to 1200. Mine looks like gelcoat.
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After the second coat of primer, there were some almost imperceptible pin holes and a couple of hollows where I got a little overzealous sanding near the strakes. A little more Awlfair, and the bottom will be ready for paint.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Pin_Holes_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17987&title=bottom-pin-holes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bottom_Pin_Holes.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17986&title=bottom-pin-holes&cat=500)
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I am excited to see her in paint. She's looking great.
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Any progress is still progress. I got a final coat of primer on the hull bottom. I need to allow 3 days in a row, so I can get through 3 coats of the VMC Epoxy and wet sanding, so that will likely be next weekend. I also put some high build on the hull sides. There are still some areas to fair, but the primer makes it easier to see. I have to admit, it's still good to see her in solid colors.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Bottom_Sides_Primer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18005&title=hull-bottom-26amp-3b-sides-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Bottom_Sides_Primer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18006&title=hull-bottom-26amp-3b-sides-primer&cat=500)
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Here are more pictures of a white boat bottom. Only now it's after 3 coats of VC Performance Epoxy and wet sanding to 800.
The paint went on fairly well. The temperatures were a bit of a challenge, because everything, paint, boat and air, needed to be above 50 degrees. I managed to get one coat down on Friday and two on Saturday. I had planned to apply one more on Sunday, but the cold rainy weather ruined that plan. Oh well, Interlux calls for three coats, that's what I have. I used a 1/4' nap roller, and with the cooler temperatures, it laid down pretty well with only a slight orange peel.
Truthfully, I would have been ecstatic with the as-rolled-on finish, if I had rolled it on from under the boat. But, since the boat is upside down, I'm wet sanding. I got it down to 800 grit all over, and I'm moving up to 1000 and 1500.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Wet_Sanding_VC_Epoxy.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18050&title=vc-performance-epoxy&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/VC_Epoxy_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18049&title=vc-performance-epoxy&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/VC_Epoxy.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18048&title=vc-performance-epoxy&cat=500)
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I'm sure I will have that "how smooth is smooth enough" battle when I get to that point!
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That is sweeeeet!
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Looks good Michael - nice job and lots of shine :c029: and not a ton of effort with an air DA. Mike you'll be surprised how smooth and glassy it'll be when you wet sand it and the good thing is it's not gelcoat so it should never dull out. We'll see over time.
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. . . . . and not a ton of effort with an air DA.
A lot less effort than pushing a long board. :singing:
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:great02:
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After wet sanding to 1500 and a bit of polish, the bottom looks great, not perfect, but good enough for the bottom. Now, I'm on to fairing the hull sides. :woohoo: More time on the longboard.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Hull_Sides_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18083&title=fairing-hull-sides&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Hull_Sides_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18082&title=fairing-hull-sides&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fairing_Hull_Sides_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18081&title=fairing-hull-sides&cat=500)
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Yeah that bottom is looking niiiiice! Good job!
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The Hull sides are getting close to fair. I have a few small low spots to fill and I need to fair in a consistent curve where the hull sides round up into the shear.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2nd_Fairing_Pt_Side.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18102&title=hull-side-second-fairing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2nd_Fairing_Stbd_Side.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18103&title=hull-side-second-fairing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2nd_Fairing_Bow.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18104&title=hull-sides-second-fairing-2&cat=500)
I tried out a new tool. Its a spreader from FlexiSander that I saw on Boat Works Today on YouTube. The tool is a flexible aluminum plate on a handle. It flexes consistently and applies uniform pressure on compound curves. After filling and fairing the obvious imperfections, I used a standard plastic spreader to put a thin layer to the hull side. Then, I drew the tool down the hull side removing excess fairing compound. The excess compound was spread too , so it went further. After cure, I used the long board to knock down the highs. A second fill and sand brought things close. I'm still getting the feel for tool, so it wasn't as magic as the FlexiSander Video. Even so, I'm using less fairing compound, and spending less time pushing the longboard. They make sanders that look good too, but they're expensive. The spreader was around $100, so I chose to use my homemade long board instead.
The results look promising. Compared to the bottom, I used less compound and spent less time doing the hard labor part. I think the spreader will pay for itself with the savings from wasted compound.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FlexiSander.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18105&title=hull-sides-second-fairing-2&cat=500)
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Looking nice! I saw that video too and was wondering how well they worked.
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Sweet!! I saw a video a few years back where a guy was using something similar to apply fairing and then another to sand - these looked very expensive though. Hey, whatever saves you time and arm muscle energy.
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Looking good. I saw the same video where he unboxed all those goodies I never checked the prices though. $100 for a tool that saves you that much money is a no-brainer, especially when you keep the labor down too.
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Scrap foam ripped to width works well for making blocks too. Keeps nice fair contact with the hull. And you can play with different sizes/thicknesses til ya find what works
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My hull sides are fair and primed. I've got some pin holes to fill, but I should have her painted sometime this weekend. I'm switching to spray for the hull exterior, so I picked up a cheap Harbor Freight gun, and put together a spray system. Knock on wood, I hope things go well.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Primer_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18147&title=hull-sides-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Primer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18148&title=hull-sides-primer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Primer_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18149&title=hull-sides-primer&cat=500)
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I had best results with a HF gun. Good luck buddy - this weekend is supposed to be nice.
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Good luck, can't wait to see how it turns out.
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It's been a busy week. I applied a tracer coat to the hull sides and sanded the primer down to 320.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Tracer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18158&title=hull-sides-tracer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Tracer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18159&title=hull-sides-tracer&cat=500)
After all the prep was complete, I sprayed the hull sides with Quantum 2 Part Polyurethane in Kingston gray. The first coat was encouraging. Then a few bugs and some detritus from trees found its way into the still tacky paint. Oh well, I always knew that, not having a clean space to paint, would be a limitation. After 3 coats of topcoat. I'll have some areas to repair, but it is what it is. I still plan on assembling the team and flipping the hull Sunday. I'll still be able to make some repairs, and if necessary, I could still sand hull sides down to 320 and reshoot.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Gray.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18163&title=hull-sides-gray&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Gray.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18160&title=hull-sides-gray&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Gray_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18161&title=hull-sides-gray&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Sides_Gray_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18164&title=hull-sides-gray-2&cat=500)
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Looks ready - good job Michael
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it is beautiful. I have been checking back regularly to see how it came out. You are so close.
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Yeah the oak pollen is really bad here right now. Everything is green.
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:great02:
A few bugs will give it character.
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She is right side up and on the trailer. I have some paint repairs and touch ups, but overall she looks pretty good.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Painted_on_Trailer_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18174&title=hull-painted-on-trailer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Painted_on_Trailer_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18173&title=hull-painted-on-trailer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Painted_on_Trailer_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18176&title=hull-painted-on-trailer2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Painted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18177&title=hull-painted-on-trailer2&cat=500)
There was a point when the boat came over kind of fast. Everything held together, but I'll need to replace one of my 1/2" U-Bolt transom eyes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bent_U_Bolt.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18175&title=hull-painted-on-trailer2&cat=500)
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Whoa - kinda hard to bend one of them. The boat looks great. Congrats.
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Thar she blows!!
The last 20% takes 80% more time i hear :035:
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Man I bet that was nerve wracking. It turned out really nice!
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Whoa - kinda hard to bend one of them. The boat looks great. Congrats.
Yeah, they’re not really designed for a quick snap with the pull to the side. The positive is that there was no damage to the transom. That small chip in the photo is only paint and primer.
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I've been knocking out a few odds and ends. First I removed the bent transom eye that was damaged when the boat was flipped back upright. I was nervous that deeper damage would be revealed. Plus, I used 5200m to seal the original install, and I didn't want to break anything getting its out. The 5200 was not an issue. I removed the nuts, cut the bent U off with a cut off wheel, then the remainder just unscrewed out. Even better my original assessment was correct, just a bit of paint and primer chipped off. The skins and core were rock solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cut_Transom_Eye.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18189&title=anchor-hatch-cover-2f-transom-eye-removal&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Eye_Removed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18190&title=anchor-hatch-cover-2f-transom-eye-removal&cat=500)
I also faired the anchor locker hatch cover into the forward deck, and did a trial fit of the hardware. I was a bit concerned that there crown of the foredeck would keep the hatch from opening smoothly, but all it took was a thin shim under the outer screws and everything is smooth.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Hatch_Fair_and_Hardware_Mounted.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18188&title=anchor-hatch-cover-2f-transom-eye-removal&cat=500)
I also fit and tabbed in the tops of the fuel chase and it's twin on the port side. I decided to change my fuel chase just a bit, by building in a hatch opening. One of my most important goals has been easy access to all systems. The idea of completing the fuel rigging through a small round opening didn't fit my plans. I cut a rectangular opening, and used some scraps from the hatch openings on my leaning post. I'll rout out the foam edges, fill with thickened epoxy and add a layer of 1708 similar to what I did for my fuel access hatch.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_Chase.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18193&title=fuel-chase-2f-port-chase&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Chase_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18191&title=fuel-chase-2f-port-chase&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Chase_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18192&title=fuel-chase-2f-port-chase&cat=500)
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Glad there wasn't any more damage around the eye bolt - the hole I used got wollered out a little. The access to the fuel/vent looks good.
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I've been sanding and prepping the interior hull sides for fairing. It's going well, and after a few days away on business I'll be fairing. I don't plan on doing any long boarding here, just the random orbital and blocking to fix the radius in the corners. Got to get this thing painted. The water is calling.
In between sanding, I've continued work on the access hatch for my fuel chase. I'm a bit slow, but I've figured out that If I can get a part closer to fair before installing, it's less work for me. Less work = less time = earlier splash. Rather than do the glassing on the boat, I molded up some flat stock, ripped strips of glass, routed out the foam edge of my chase, filled the edge with thickened epoxy and glued in the strips of glass.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Chase_Rim_Glue_Clamp.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18226&title=fuel-chase-access-hatch&cat=500)
Here's the chase with everything trimmed up. This took a lot less time than if I had molded the hatch rim on the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Chase_Hatch_Lip_and_Rim.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18225&title=fuel-chase-access-hatch&cat=500)
Another time saving step is to make as much as you can in a mold, because there's less fairing required. Here's the hatch cover for the fuel chase. It needed a kick out at the top in order to allow room for the fuel fill. With the mold, I not only get to spend less time on finish work, but I also incorporated a band of thickened resin for a crush proof core for screws, all in 1 step.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Chase_Hatch_Cover.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18224&title=fuel-chase-access-hatch&cat=500)
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That looks great!
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Still sanding and prepping the hull sides, but since this is my last chance to spend time with the old girl for a week, I decided to leave her with a little jewelry. I dry fit the bow cleats and the Livorsi Marine LED nav lights.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Cleats.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18227&title=bow-cleats-26amp-3b-nav-lights&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Cleats_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18228&title=bow-cleats-26amp-3b-nav-lights&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Shark_Eye_Nav_Light.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18230&title=bow-cleats-26amp-3b-nav-lights&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Cleats_Nav_Light.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18229&title=bow-cleats-26amp-3b-nav-lights&cat=500)
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Love the fill access! Can actually get 2 hands in there to do stuff :adore01:
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:great02:
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Dang!! making it happen! Paint job an colors look sweet. I think I'll use your fill hose access idea if I have room. Have fun sanding :)
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I love the fuel fill area. There is something to be said for being a few steps behind all of you guys. The great ideas are plentiful around these parts.
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Ok, It's ugly and it's green, and I'll be sanding most of it off, but I'm happy to have the first wipe of fairing compound on the hull sides interior.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Hull_Sides_Int_First_Fairing_Wipe.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18285&title=fwhull-sides-int-fairing-wipe&cat=500)
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Got the interior hull sides faired. It was much quicker, no longboard here. The RO sander made quick work of the flat spots. Then I spent a bit more time filling and blocking a radius where the sides meet the sole and the stiffeners.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Fair.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18307&title=fw-hull-sides-interior-fair&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Detail_Fair.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18306&title=fw-hull-sides-interior-fair&cat=500)
Then I got 2 coats of high build on the hull sides. there are still some areas that require attention, and more than a few pin holes to fit, but for now, it will be wash, rinse, repeat aft.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FW_Fair_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18308&title=fw-int-fair-26amp-3b-primed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Port_FW_Fair_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18309&title=fw-int-fair-26amp-3b-primed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/StBd_Fw_Fair_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18310&title=fw-int-fair-26amp-3b-primed&cat=500)
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Any progress is good progress.
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Looking good :thumleft:
I just started the fairing process so I can imagine how nice it must have felt to shoot that first coat of primer.
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Second verse, same as the first. I got the aft interior hull sides fair. I added fillets in the corners. Today, I'll be sanding the fillets into a nice radius, and hopefully, tomorrow I'll be priming. I'm looking forward to finishing the paint and moving on to rigging.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Int_Hull_Sides_Fair_and_Fillets.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18363&title=aft-int-hull-sides-fair-26amp-3b-fillets&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Hull_Sides_Int_Fair_and_Fillets_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18361&title=aft-int-hull-sides-fair-26amp-3b-fillets&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Hull_Sides_Int_Fair_and_Fillets_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18362&title=aft-int-hull-sides-fair-26amp-3b-fillets&cat=500)
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Very professional looking !
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The aft interior hull sides are now primed. I still need to repair a few spots and fill some pin holes, but I hope to be spraying the cap and interior next week.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Int_Hull_Sides_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18371&title=aft-int-hull-sides-primed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Int_Hull_Sides_Primed_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18373&title=aft-int-hull-sides-primed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Aft_Int_Hull_Sides_Primed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18372&title=aft-int-hull-sides-primed&cat=500)
While I was at it, I went ahead and primed the footrest for my console along with the hatch covers for the anchor locker and fuel fill access.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Parts_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18374&title=parts-primed&cat=500)
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Getting there now. :thumleft:
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Very nice!
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The high build revealed quite a few pinholes and tiny low spots. I spent quite a bit of time filling and sanding to get things to my satisfaction. Cleaning up the corners where the stiffeners intersect was especially time consuming. Looking back, I think I would core the hull sides. I think that 1/2" double cut divynicell applied in 12 x 12 squares like tile would have yielded a good result without resorting to vacuum bagging. This would have saved a lot of finish work.
Oh well, would have, should have, I'm looking forward now. I shot the final primer. I'll finish sanding it today, and tomorrow I plan on spraying paint. I hope the weather forecast holds. By next weekend, I should have the console and leaning post in, and start on the non-skid. I've got some soft sand rubber, fine and medium, to mix into the paint and roll.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Fair_Cap_Interior_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18683&title=final-fair-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Fair_Cap_Interior_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18682&title=final-fair-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Fair_Cap_Interior_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18680&title=final-fair-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Fair_Cap_Interior_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18681&title=final-fair-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Primer_Cap_Interior_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18678&title=final-primer-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Primer_Cap_Interior_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18679&title=final-primer-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Final_Primer_Cap_Interior.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18677&title=final-primer-cap-26amp-3b-interior&cat=500)
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:88):
Looks like the effort is paying off in spades - nice work Michael :nSalute:
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Hell of a CCP!
:thumright:
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Today I sprayed the hull interior with Kingston Gray. The color is lighter than these photos make it look. It's the same color I used on the hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Interior_Gray.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18688&title=hull-interior-gray&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Interior_Gray_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18690&title=hull-interior-gray&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hull_Interior_Gray_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18689&title=hull-interior-gray&cat=500)
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You are motivating me to keep fairing and sanding a lot more than I want to. :nSalute:
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Glad you weren't "bugged" by the lovebug season - I remember when I sprayed several parts I would come back out and there they were in the gelcoat I just sprayed. Your boat is looking great Michael.
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Yeah, the lovebugs were all over last week when I was priming, but they didn’t make a showing yesterday. I hope my luck holds when I spray the cap today.
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I sprayed the cap today. A few bugs and more than a few drips made their way into the outside cap. I predict a round of wet sanding and compounding in my future.
It's kind of funny. The interior hull sides and the inside of the cap turned out great, but for some reason, I couldn't quite get things adjusted right for the outside of the cap, maybe the tent was just a bit to closed in to allow a proper spray distance.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Exterior.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18696&title=cap-painted-exterior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Exterior_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18697&title=cap-painted-exterior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Interior.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18698&title=cap-painted-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Interior_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18701&title=cap-painted-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Interior_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18700&title=cap-painted-interior&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cap_Painted_Interior_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18699&title=cap-painted-interior&cat=500)
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It is beautiful. loving the gray-white contrast. Inspirational all around.
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Did you mask off the hull sides and drop-cloth the inside? Maybe a HVLP setup?
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Did you mask off the hull sides and drop-cloth the inside? Maybe a HVLP setup?
Yes, I used tape and drape to bask off the hull sides and masking paper on the inside. I used the Harbor Freight purple HPLV gun.
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I think I have a couple of those - works.
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Yesterday, I lined up some help, and we hung the Armstrong Bracket and loaded the console and leaning post. Today, I dry fit the console and leaning post before over drilling the screw holes, routing out some of the foam core and filled with thickened epoxy. About half the console will be through-bolted with #14 screws into epoxy plugs for the remainder of the console and leaning post. Everything will be bonded with methacrylate adhesive. I think it will be rock-solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Hung_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18712&title=bracket-hung&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Hung_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18713&title=bracket-hung&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bracket_Hung_Console_LP_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18714&title=bracket-hung&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18715&title=console-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Dry_Fit_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18717&title=console-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Lp_Dry_Fit_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18719&title=console-26amp-3b-lp-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Lp_Dry_Fit.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18718&title=console-26amp-3b-lp-dry-fit&cat=500)
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Coming together fast now and looking good :thumleft:
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Looks great. It's gotta be exciting for you to see it all coming together!
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The console and leaning post are permanently part of the CCP. They're bonded in with Methacrylate adhesive along with bolts and screws. I had to work around the weather today, but I got the nonskid painted on my cap. It's Soft Sand Rubber particles mixed into the same Quantum polyurethane top coat that I used on the boat. I used 2 oz of particles (3pts fine to 1pt medium) mixed into 16oz mixed paint and a foam roller to apply. It turned out pretty good.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Nonskid_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18739&title=nonskid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Nonskid.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18738&title=nonskid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Nonskid_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18740&title=nonskid&cat=500)
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Check !
The list is getting smaller :thumleft:
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The mission is coming into focus. I dry fit the aft and spring like cleats along with rod holders in the cap. I have four 30 degree holders along the rear cap for flatlines/downrigger rods, two more further forward for long and short outriggers and four 15 degrees in the bow. After seeing the rod holders in the bow, I think I'll add two more. They'll need to be 0 degree because that's all that will fit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Dryfit_FW_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18758&title=rod-holders-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Dry_Fit_FW.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18757&title=rod-holders-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Dry_Fit_Aft_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18756&title=rod-holders-dry-fit&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Dry_Fit_Aft_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18755&title=rod-holders-dry-fit&cat=500)
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Now the fun starts :singing: Liking the color choice
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You can never have too many rod holders! :thumleft:
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I went to work on the last major fairing project on the boat. I'll still need to fair my coffin box, but I can work on that off the boat while my motor is being rigged. I had some epoxy and a bunch of micro-balloons, so I went with a home brew for this one.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Fairing_Mix_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18764&title=deck-fairing-mix-applied&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Fairing_Mix_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18765&title=deck-fairing-mix-applied&cat=500)
She's sanded down reasonably fair. I still need to give it a once over, and fair in a good transition for the hatch rims, but I'll be applying primer and non-skid soon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Faired_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18766&title=deck-faired&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Faired_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18767&title=deck-faired&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Faired_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18768&title=deck-faired&cat=500)
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Still chipping away at her. Primer is on the deck. I hope to spray the gloss rings around my hatches on Sunday and have the nonskid down Monday.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Primed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18792&title=deck-primed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Primed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18793&title=deck-primed&cat=500)
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:thumleft:
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It's amazing how long things take. I think, I'll sand and then I'll mask, or I'll mask and then I'll paint, and the boat gods reach down and slap me. One day to sand, one day to mask, one day too spray the gloss rings, one day to mask for the non skid, and then one day to roll on non-skid, anyway all those days add up to non-skid is finished on the cockpit sole.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Gloss_Rings.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18803&title=deck-gloss-rings-26amp-3b-non-skid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Gloss_Rings_Hatches.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18804&title=deck-gloss-rings-26amp-3b-non-skid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Masked_and_Sanded_Deck_Non-Skid.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18806&title=deck-gloss-rings-26amp-3b-non-skid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Masked_Sanded_Deck_Non-Skid.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18805&title=deck-gloss-rings-26amp-3b-non-skid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Non-Skid.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18807&title=non-skid&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Non-Skid_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18809&title=non-skid-3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Non-Skid_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18810&title=non-skid-4&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Non-Skid_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18808&title=non-skid-2&cat=500)
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All that time and energy looks to be paying off. It looks great! What did you use for the non skid?
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The non-skid was Soft Sand rubber particals mixed in to my Quantum 99 PU top coat.
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Moving Day! With most of the paint finished I brought the CCP home today. I've been working on her at my father's house, because my HOA would never let me get away with that. With the boat out of the tent, it was also a chance to appreciate those Aquasport lines.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Moving_Day_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18820&title=moving-day&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Moving_Day.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18819&title=moving-day&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Moving_Day_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18821&title=moving-day&cat=500)
I had some help lined up, so we installed the T Top too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/T_Top_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18822&title=t-top-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/T_Top_Install.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18824&title=t-top-install&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/T_Top_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18823&title=t-top-3&cat=500)
We also tried out the placement of the coffin box. It is the only part that still requires fairing and panting. My plan is to tackle that wile the motor is being hung.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Coffin_Box.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18825&title=coffin-box-2f-cover&cat=500)
Now that she won't fit in a tent, I have a cover to try to keep her clean.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Covered.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18826&title=coffin-box-2f-cover&cat=500)
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Wow, she's a beauty - well done.
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That thing is beautiful. So close to the finish line. If I were in your shoes I would be worthless at work, spending all day just dreaming about splashing her.
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Looks great Michael. :salut:
But then I'm somewhat bias toward CCPs :thumright:
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Thanks Rick, Mike, Funsmith & Captain Bob.
But then I'm somewhat bias toward CCPs :thumright:
Me too. Makes me wonder what if. . . what if when Aquasport redesigned their larger Ospreys and made them deep Vs. . . . What if they kept the CCP alive with a redesign to make it compete head to head with Contender etc. . . or what if Genmar had gone in the same direction instead of retiring AS?
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Got the rubrail installed today. As is typical, what I thought would be a half day job turned into a full day with the last couple hours working in the rain. Not complaining, just wondering, when will I learn?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rub_Rail_Installed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18849&title=rub-rail&cat=500)
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Outstanding work.
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That looks nice. I'm planning on the white with the stainless insert too. What brand is it?
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Looks great - that checklist has to almost be done now.
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Mike, The rub rail came from Marine Connection Liquidators in Fort Pierce. I’m not sure of the brand, but it matches profiles from Taco and Barbour Plastics. The ss insert is from Taco.
Rick, The list is still pretty long. It’s just filled with smaller projects.
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Oh dang. Awesome job. The hard work is going to pay off soon!! How did the roll on non skid turn out? Too light? Too heavy? Just right? I’ll be there soon!
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Mike, The rub rail came from Marine Connection Liquidators in Fort Pierce. I’m not sure of the brand, but it matches profiles from Taco and Barbour Plastics. The ss insert is from Taco.
Cool, thanks. I've thought about making a trip over there but it would kill a full day I'm sure.
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How did the roll on non skid turn out? Too light? Too heavy? Just right?
It feels about right to me. Good traction, but easy on bare feet. Doesn’t hurt bare knees when kneeling. Only downside that I see to rolling, at least in my case. You need to keep it well stirred throughout application or you’ll get some heavy spots. It’s best to pour a small amount in pan each time and stir well each time you add. I got a little greedy at one point, so I ended up with a few heavy patches. The 90-100 degree heat didn’t help. It’s barely noticeable, but it’s worth taking the extra step.
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I installed the bait well pick up and seacock along with the through hull transducer. The bilge pumps are in and the hoses are cut. I just need to pick up some hose clamps to finish the hose runs.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transdeucer:Strainer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18873&title=transducer-2fstrainer&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Plumbing.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18870&title=bilge-plumbing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Pumps.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18872&title=bilge-plumbing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Pump_Through_Hulls.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18871&title=bilge-plumbing&cat=500)
The fuel system is plumbed out as well with a big loop to prevent water getting into the vent line and an SS fuel/water separator.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_System_Plumbing.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18867&title=fuel-system-plumbing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Vent.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18868&title=fuel-system-plumbing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Water_Separator.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18869&title=fuel-system-plumbing&cat=500)
I had a black acrylic panel made to dress up and reduce glare on my instrument panel. I've got it glued in with 5200 and some 5 minute epoxy to hold things together until the 5200 sets.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Acrylic_Instrument_Panel.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18874&title=acrylic-instrument-panel&cat=500)
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Lookin' good.
Bilge pump float switches....type and manufacturer.
:great02:
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Lookin' good.
Bilge pump float switches....type and manufacturer.
:great02:
They’re from Ultra Safety Systems, and quite robust. Everyone who uses them says they’re as close to a lifetime switch as you’ll find.
https://www.ultratef-gel.com/ultra-pump-switches/
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I got my electronics mounted in my instrument panel, 2) 7" Lowrance displays, auto pilot control head, Fusion stereo, Standard Horizon VHF. The switch panel came from New Wire Marine. My helm pump and shifter are mounted too. Tomorrow, I plan to install the engine rigging tube, so I can get measurements and order battery cables, shift cables and hydraulic hoses.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Instrument_Panel_Helm.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18890&title=instrument-panel-26amp-3b-helm&cat=500)
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That looks so damn good.
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The neighbors were getting ready to take out their pitchforks and torches, so I needed to catch up on some yard work over the weekend. I just managed to tackle a couple of smaller projects. I installed some TH rod holders as tubes to allow rod tips to extend through my aft bulkhead. My 6' standup rods just extend into the tubes; my 5'9" rods don't need them, and 7' spinners should be perfect.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Tubes.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18900&title=rod-holder-2ftubes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Starboard.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18899&title=rod-holder-2ftubes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holders_Portr.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18898&title=rod-holder-2ftubes&cat=500)
My plan to use thicker core in high stress areas like for cleats and rod holders was nearly perfect. It's fine for my 8" forward cleats, and my rod holders, but my 6" aft and springlike cleats were limited to 1" thickness. My 3/4" core and glass gunwales were just a bit over. I needed to cut a recess in the underside, and I didn't want to do any more glass work. I used a hole saw to drill out the skin. My usual trick of mounting 2 hole saws on a single arbor wouldn't work, because the two hole saws use different size arbors. I made a jig to center the larger hole saw. All this is pretty standard, but I thought I'd include photos.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drilling_Jig.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18903&title=drilling-jig&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drilling_Jig_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18904&title=drilling-jig&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cleat_Recess.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18901&title=cleat-recess&cat=500)
Things got a bit more interesting near my fuel chase. There wasn't enough room to drill from underneath, so I needed something different. For drilling rod holders, I replaced the pilot bit in a hole saw with an electricians bit. I considered just chucking the drill end, but though better of it. I replaced the bit with a piece of 1/4" rod, chucked it in reverse, and running the drill in reverse, I managed to cut the recess from above. I've never seen this trick before (doesn't mean someone else hasn't done it), so I thought I'd share.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hole_Saw.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18905&title=hole-saw-mods&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Hole_Saw_Top.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18906&title=hole-saw-mods&cat=500)
Here are the recesses with a cleat installed. I use glass, washers made from the cut outs, to back up the nuts and washers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Cleat_Recess_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18902&title=cleat-recess&cat=500)
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Nice work! That yardwork is never ending this time of year.
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Working around the rain has added an additional challenge, but I'm still making progress. The hatch covers are installed. I went with a pair of compression latches for the bilge access and the hatch under the coffin, so that I can completely remove the hatches for ease of access. The compression latches form a good seal against the seals on the hatches. The hatch for the bow storage has traditional hinges and latch. It is the largest accessible storage, so quick access was highest priority. At over 5' long and insulated, there's still a chance I could use it for fish too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bilge_Hatch_Compression_Latches.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18924&title=hatches-26amp-3b-rigging-tubes&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bow_Hatch_Hunges_Latch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18925&title=hatches-26amp-3b-rigging-tubes&cat=500)
The rigging tube and Hydraulic hoses are in. I'm still waiting for a part so I can install my shift cables.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rigging_Tube.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18926&title=hatches-26amp-3b-rigging-tubes&cat=500)
I was going to use the Gemlux Stainless Steel Scupper Flaps, but with my scuppers so far outboard, they didn't fit well. I went with some scupper flaps from Sea-Block. To my eye, they look like knock offs of the flaps from TH, with one key difference. They sell a 12 degree wedge kit, so the flaps hang closed. Everything seems to be well made out of fiber reenforced plastic. The only problem was, the wedges don't provide a surface for the flaps to seal on. They just have small 45 degree gussets that stop the door from swinging in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18927&title=scupper-flaps&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18930&title=scupper-flaps&cat=500)
I decided to use PVC board to make wedges in order to fill in the opening and create a better seal. Once you cut the PVC, it leaves a porous surface that would get dirty fast, so, I used PVC tube to line the holes, and made finished fiberglass plates to provide nonporous surfaces.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18928&title=scupper-flaps&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18929&title=scupper-flaps&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_5.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18931&title=scupper-flaps&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scuppers_7.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18934&title=scupper-flaps-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Scupper_Flaps_Installed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18932&title=scupper-flaps-2&cat=500)
The console forest panel is finished and installed. I'm waiting to caulk it, so that it can be removed if necessary for engine rigging.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Finished_Footrest_Panel.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18941&title=test-float-2ffootrest-2fpony&cat=500)
The Hull ID# is installed on the transom and a second hidden location. She's becoming a boat again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1157.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18943&title=hull-id&cat=500)
Time for a test float. She floats well. With no motor, the chines at the stern are out of the water by about a half inch. It's nice to see her on the water. I hope to finish the plumbing and electrical this week, and get the motor hung next week.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CCP_Test_Float.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18936&title=ccp-test-float&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CCP_Test_Float_Stern_Quarter_Gary.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18937&title=ccp-test-float&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CCP_Test_Float_Transom.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18938&title=ccp-test-float&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CCP_Test_Float_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18940&title=test-float-2ffootrest-2fpony&cat=500)
I've been tortureing my baby sister (all grown now) playing Lyle Lovett's "If I had a boat" at family gatherings, so she wanted to make sure I had a pony for my boat. The CCP has a mascot. I'm secure enough in my masculinity to have a pink pega-pony-corn on my boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Pony1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18942&title=test-float-2ffootrest-2fpony&cat=500)
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Looks really good Michael - great ingenuity on the scuppers.
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Really nice :thumright:
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Too bad about the gemlux units not fitting, looks you got it licked though. Very much look forward to seeing it powered. She is beautiful.
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Hot Damn! :great02:
I often dreamed of closing in my CCP. Had the bracket, just never the gumption. I've lived vicariously through this rebuild. Seems I do that with all the rebuilds, and we have a number going on right now that are making this Forum proud.
Thanks to everyone for participating but I'm still bias toward the ol' CCP.
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Wow!! Not to shabby for your first rebuild!! Lol
More like your your 20th rebuild I bet.
You got some mad boat building skills aay!
When are you opening your own shop?
If the fishing gets slow you can just sit back and relax and admire all your hard work.
Awesome!
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Thank you gentlemen. It’s good to be close.
Capt. Bob, be careful. That living vicariously thing is a gateway drug. One minute you’re scanning rebuild threads, and the next, you’re sawing on a boat.
Fish Head, you were closer with first. Actually, this is my second. My first rebuild was an old Malibu 14 rolled edge skiff. I redid the transom, reenforced the floor, foamed in some flotation and slapped a coat of enamel on it. Of course, I’ve been building things my whole life and did build a stitch and glue kayak from plans. I guess my point is rebuilding a boat is within reach, especially with resources like Classic Aquasport.
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I've been knocking out the rigging on the CCP. All of the rod holders are mounted. Almost all of them are through bolted with stainless backing plate, all that will be used for trolling anyway. Four of the forward rod holders did not have room for backing plates, so they're secured with 1 through bolt with fender washer and screws.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holder_Backing_Plate_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19069&title=rod-holders-mounted&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holder_Backing_Plate.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19068&title=rod-holders-mounted&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Rod_Holder_Fender_Washer.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19070&title=rod-holders-mounted&cat=500)
The trim tabs are mounted and wired. I went with 12 x 12 Bolts, and needed to go with the low profile in order too fit them under the platform.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Trim_Tabs.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19073&title=trim-tabs-26amp-3b-plumbing&cat=500)
The live well is plumbed with bronze seacocks for both the fill and overflow.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Live_Well_Overflow_Sea_Cock.jpg)[/url]
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Live_Well_Pump.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19072&title=trim-tabs-26amp-3b-plumbing&cat=500)
All of the electrical loads (essential ones anyway) are pulled to the console and wired. I tried to keep everything organized and labeled so chasing down a problem won't be an issue. I will still need to add my raw water wash down, AM/FM/Bluetooth Radio, and Autopilot after engine is rigged.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Wiring.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19074&title=console-wiring&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Wiring_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19076&title=console-wiring&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_Wiring_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19075&title=console-wiring&cat=500)
And since the wiring is complete here are the obligatory lighting shots. Everything is LED. No color changing or anything like that, though, just boring white.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Nav_Lights.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19079&title=lighting&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Spreader_Lts.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19080&title=lighting&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Helm_Lights.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19078&title=lighting&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Courtesy_Lights.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19077&title=lighting&cat=500)
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Looks Sweet Michael. I installed switchable white and red for under lights so I didn't lose night vision.
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It just keeps getting better! Very nice work
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:great02:
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I had to take a shifter part over to Portside Marine today. The motor is on. I'm hopeful that I'll be able to water test it and pick it up tomorrow. Knock on wood. The three blade Solas prop is just for testing. My plan is to go with a Rev 4, probably 17" pitch, but testing will help determine where I'll end up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Motor_Hung.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19220&title=motor-2flocker&cat=500)
Here are some photos from before I dropped it off for the motor. Pre Dorian, it seems like ages ago. The access doors and lockers are in. There's a small tackle center in the transom and a fire extinguisher/safety gear locker in the starboard side of the leaning post.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Lockers:Doors.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19221&title=motor-2flocker&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fire_Extinguisher_Safety_Gear_Locker.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19219&title=motor-2flocker&cat=500)
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WooHoo!!
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Seeing the motor on there has gotta feel nice! Looking great
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Did you get to take her for a rip yet?
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Did you get to take her for a rip yet?
Thanks for the prompt. Yeah, I water tested and picked her up last Tuesday. With a 17" Quicksilver 4 (same as Rev 4) she topped out at 40 just kissing 5300 RPM. That was with two people and 40 gallons of fuel. Cruise was where I expected it to be. At 3500 RPM she was at mph 23 mph. There was slight porpoising at WOT, but the tabs knocked that out.
I think I'll get a bit more out of her by raising the motor a hole or two. With the high winds and hurricane swell, work stuff too, I haven't had another chance to run it, but plan on taking her out tomorrow. Then I'll make the call on raising the motor.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Motor_Running.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19246&title=water-test&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Michael_at_Helm.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19245&title=water-test&cat=500)
Here's a link to a video looking down at the ventilation plate at cruise. Looks low to me, but I would love opinions. https://youtu.be/-WgHnDrAuU0
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Excellent work Michael. :salut:
I'm guessin' you'll get the response that the motor can be raised which should give you more top end. I'm in the same boat with just one hole left to raise. Just haven't got to it yet.
Again, looking great.
Good luck. :thumright:
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Very nice work Michael.
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That is a thing of beauty. Well done sir.
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I took the girl to sea yesterday. Conditions were great with a 2 foot swell and some wind chop. She was quite comfortable in the mild conditions, but I wan't comfortable running WOT out there. I'm still breaking the motor in, so I went back into the river and opened her up. I'm impressed with the motor. I still need to tinker with motor height and a couple of other things, but performance is right in line with my expectations. Honestly, for offshore use, I don't see any need for more power on this hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Offshore_PC.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19330&title=offshore-port-canaveral&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Offshore_PC_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19331&title=offshore-port-canaveral&cat=500)
Here's where she stacks out performance wise. Speeds were measured in knots, and rounded to the nearest whole number for MPH.
RPM Knots MPH
3000 18 21
3500 22 26
4000 27 31
4500 33 38
5300 37 43
The scuppers were high and dry. Even with my substantial weight on the platform, no water was on deck. That's with the sole raised 1" from stock, and scuppers exiting the transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PC_Launch_Aft.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19333&title=port-canaveral-launch-ramp&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PC_Launch.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19332&title=port-canaveral-launch-ramp&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PC_Launch_FW.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19334&title=port-canaveral-launch-ramp&cat=500)
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She's sitting perfect. The numbers look good. Is that a Merc 150?
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She's sitting perfect. The numbers look good. Is that a Merc 150?
Sorry Rick. I missed your question. Yes, It's a Merc 150 Four Stroke.
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Just a small update: I had the motor raised 1 hole. I don't see a way to take it up anymore without loosing the double bolts at the top. Weather permitting, I''ll take it out for a test run next Tuesday. Hopefully, I'll gain a bit more WOT RPM and top speed, plus reduce steering torque.
I made a modification of my fire extinguisher cabinet. And it came from Boat Outfitters it was 1/2" too shallow to accommodate my EPIRB. I wanted out of the way, yet easy access for safety gear. I added 1/2 Starboard spacers to gain the depth. That left room for one of the plastic TH rod holders through the back to store one of the Weems & Plath rescue lights. It's in the starboard side of my leaning post barely a step from the helm.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fire_Extinguisher_Cabinet_New_Improved.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19365&title=fire-extinguisher-cabinet-new-26amp-3b-improved&cat=500)
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I took her out today to test out the new motor height, this time with a full tank of fuel and two people aboard. To speed with the heavier load was still 43, and cruise was about the same. Steering torque was reduced, so I think the engine’s where she needs to be. The boat feels like it still needs a little weight forward. I need to hurry up and finish the coffin box. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Now it’s time to to take her offshore for some fish. Unfortunately, work calls, so that will be in two weeks weather permitting.
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Beautiful job all around. Thanks for keeping the thread going, I really enjoyed following along. Now get out and enjoy it!
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Both of you two Gentlemen have "Master Builder" status rebuilds going. Thanks to both of you for what is the lifeblood of this Forum.
MS, I had a 222 CCP but it had the shorter 200 coffin box up front. I too always felt the front end was light but controlled the nose height with tabs. When I repowered going from the factory installed 185 to a 200hp, the goal was 40 mph and it did that easily so yes, I think you are where you want to be.
Good luck and post a few pics with fish blood on them. :thumright:
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I took her out today to test out the new motor height, this time with a full tank of fuel and two people aboard. To speed with the heavier load was still 43, and cruise was about the same. Steering torque was reduced, so I think the engine’s where she needs to be. The boat feels like it still needs a little weight forward. I need to hurry up and finish the coffin box. Hopefully that will do the trick.
It's interesting that the 200CCP and the 222CCP run about the same speed with similar power. The extra 2 feet don't seem to affect the speed on the 200 vs. 222. I agree that the 200 does seem a bit bow-light, but the extra 2 feet on the 222 seem to make up for that a lot. Also, having a couple anchors and some chain in the forward anchor locker (an in my case) with a trolling motor mounted on the bow all seem to balance it out pretty well. Did you keep the batteries in the stern or move them up under the console? That helps a bit too - both with draining the back and with moving some weight forward.
Nice work on that boat! It's great to see some of these classics get some love.
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Thanks Capt. John The published weight on the 222 and 200 are only 200-300 pounds different, so I would expect similar performance. Though that extra 2 feet would help cutting through chop.
I have 1 anchor and 12' of chain forward. My Batteries, 2 group 31 AGMs are in my console. The CG of my fuel tank is 8" forward of stock too. The deck drains really well. I raised it 1" and the floatation in the bracket helps too.
I think when I get my coffin box mounted it will be heavy enough too level things out, may be with 100 pounds of ice added.
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I have owned both the 200CCP and the 222CCP. To be honest, I never saw much of a difference in the ride between the two. I will agree that the bow might ride a little higher on the 200CCP but I could never really see a difference. I had both of these boats offshore several times. Personally, I like the bow to ride a little higher because it cuts down on the spray.
If you want the bow to come down a little, get a 50 pound bag of play sand and throw in the anchor locker :13: You have trim tabs anyway so just trim them where you want the bow to be and ride.
Boat looks great!!
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Even with the rebuild complete (I should say substantially complete), there are still projects that I want to do. One of the features that I liked about the original CCP is the storage cubbies in the forward liner. Even though I ditched the liner, I still wanted the storage, so I built trays out of glass with starboard strips as keepers. The bungees should help keep things in place while running.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1260.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19843&title=pfd-storage&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1259.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19842&title=pfd-storage&cat=500)
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Nice!
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One of the features that I liked about the original CCP is the storage cubbies in the forward liner.
Indeed.
That's where I stowed my PFDs. :thumright:
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The CCP boated her first brag worthy fish today, and the first ever blue Marlin for her rebuilder, captain and angler. The catch wasn’t a solo effort. I had a first time angler on the boat, and he passed on the fish, but he did an admirable job of clearing lines and some boat handling with a lot of barking of orders from me. The fish nearly spoiled me early in the fight, and we nearly lost it a second time. Long story short, clean catch and release with the fish living to fight again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/17BEB64D-CAE4-421F-9D92-4B813BC9EF1C.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20129&title=blue-marlin&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/19F1C354-7E84-4FC8-8FD3-4CE285AD79BD.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20130&title=blue-marlin&cat=500)
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Excellent! :salut: :salut: :salut:
While I won't doubt it has happened before, you are the first member that I recall hooking up a marlin.
What a great culmination to a worthy rebuild. Textbook.
Congrats. :thumright:
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Nice fish Michael. :bravo_2: I've never caught a Marlin.
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Awesome! :nSalute:
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Even when the rebuild is finished, there are still projects. I added DIY coaming bolsters out of SeaDek. I considered, getting some of the knock off stuff at amazon, but decided to go with SeaDek. The knock off was $80 per sheet, and the SeaDek double that. The project took a bit more than two sheets, so material costs were not a huge deal. Besides, the knock off's translated product description did not inspire confidence in the adhesive used. I went with the 10mm thickness beccause I was after grip to brace thighs against coaming more than padding.
I used clear mylar to template the coaming and then transferred pattern to 1/2" MDF. I had scrap from another project, so no cost there. I used a utility knife to cut the foam, and then double stick tape to stick the SeaDek to the template. A router with a 45 degree chamfer bit gave a nice bevel to the edge. The EVA does gum up the ball bearing guide, so occasional cleaning with xylene kept it rolling.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDek_Template.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20458&title=seadek-bolsters-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDEk_Routing.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20456&title=seadek-bolsters-1&cat=500)
A good cleaning, and then it's just peel and stick.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDek_Bolsters_Bow.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20457&title=seadek-bolsters-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDek_Aft_Bolsters.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20460&title=seadek-bolsters-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDek_Starboard_Bolsters.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20461&title=seadek-bolsters-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDek_Bolsters_FW.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20462&title=seadek-bolsters-fw&cat=500)
I still haven't finished the Aquasport coffin box. Haven't been up for anymore fairing and painting. I got an Engle 165 to use for a fish box, and it works so well, I may be selling the coffin box. Anyway, I cut SeaDek pads for the cooler, and inlayed one of the commercial SeaDek rulers into it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/SeaDEek_Cooler_Pad.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20459&title=seadek-bolsters-2&cat=500)
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Great work as usual. I completely understand the concept of never truly being done!
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Looks great Michael.
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Awesome job.! What brand is the throttle controller on your console? Looks sharp!
How is your Merc 150 doing so far? Like it or love it?
Any estimated MPG?
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Awesome job.! What brand is the throttle controller on your console? Looks sharp!
How is your Merc 150 doing so far? Like it or love it?
Any estimated MPG?
Thanks. Throttle is from Uflex http://uflexusa.ultraflexgroup.com/en/catalogue/single-lever-controls/08a08b-1/880/-low-profile-single-lever-top-mount-controls-b301-b302.html I liked the retro look. It required a separate engine trim switch. I just used a TH Marine switch mounted next to tab controller on the ledge directly above the throttle. Since I operate throttle from the stem rather than the knob, it’s a perfect location.
I love the merc 150. Honestly, it seems to be a perfect match for the hull. Best cruise is 25-30 MPH at 4.5-5 MPG.
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Thanks for the info. That 150 is definitely looking more and more appealing and compared to the Suzuki 140 on our size boats!