new bunks on the trailer...

[Aswaff400]

took the opportunity while the boat was in the water this past week to get some much needed work done on the trailer. replaced the bunks and brackets so the boat no longer sits on the fenders and the last 1-1/2 ft of the hull is now supported... funny the angle of my cross-members match the deadrise of the hull 8)  

before:


after:



next gotta replace the axle springs and bearings, might tackle those in 2 more weeks...

[GoneFission]

Nice work!  

[seabob4]

She's pretty!  See The Pier there, downtown SP....

[Curious]

How did you get the angle of the bunks the same as the angle on the hull? Oh never mind, I just re-read the first post.  My dilemma is that the cross members are a shallower angle than my deadrise and I'm trying to figure out how to get the angle right on the bunk so the hull isn't sitting on the edge of the bunk.  It's currently a roller trailer but my plan is to modify it into a bunk trailer to simplify things......

[John Jones]

swivel top bunk brackets are available.

page 7
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... og1-20.pdf

[RickK]

Looks good  :!:  :!:

[MarshMarlowe196]

That's mo' betta    Maybe it's just the picture, but it looks like the bunks are overhanging a little too much at the stern.  Could pose a problem if you're trying to get the boat on the trailer in high wind or a bad current.  Might impact the bunk with the lower unit - Might not.  Just  a thought, and it should be an easy fix.

[Capt. Bob]

Of course it doesn't pertain to you now but.....

I trimmed mine for clearance/possible damage to the trim tabs when loading /unloading.


 
Depending on your stature and mental state at the ramp or at home, think possible knee/shin encounter followed by #@&**fu*%.

I'm just thinkin' out loud. :o

[Curious]

swivel top bunk brackets are available.

page 7
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... og1-20.pdf

Yeah, I thought about those but I don't like the idea of most of the weight bearing being on just those two load points at the brackets.  There really isn't any weight bearing in the middle of the 2x4 or 2x6 is there?  They make galv or alum bunk stiffeners that I suppose could go on each swivel bracket to provide some more support.  I like the idea of the thicker bunks in the pics above, but maybe I'm overthinking it???  Would 2 2x6 bunks on swivel brackets and a couple of keel rollers do the trick?  Its a 1975 22 Family Fisherman.

[Aswaff400]

i left about 12 inches hanging off so i could move the bow stop back about 6-8 inches, also doubles as a step to get in the boat :tongue:

swivel top bunk brackets are available.

page 7
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... og1-20.pdf

Yeah, I thought about those but I don't like the idea of most of the weight bearing being on just those two load points at the brackets.  There really isn't any weight bearing in the middle of the 2x4 or 2x6 is there?  They make galv or alum bunk stiffeners that I suppose could go on each swivel bracket to provide some more support.  I like the idea of the thicker bunks in the pics above, but maybe I'm overthinking it???  Would 2 2x6 bunks on swivel brackets and a couple of keel rollers do the trick?  Its a 1975 22 Family Fisherman.

i prefer solid bunk to support most of the weight and i used those brackets to support the bow...

heres a similar and common setup:

[John Jones]

swivel top bunk brackets are available.

page 7
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... og1-20.pdf

Yeah, I thought about those but I don't like the idea of most of the weight bearing being on just those two load points at the brackets.  There really isn't any weight bearing in the middle of the 2x4 or 2x6 is there?  They make galv or alum bunk stiffeners that I suppose could go on each swivel bracket to provide some more support.  I like the idea of the thicker bunks in the pics above, but maybe I'm overthinking it???  Would 2 2x6 bunks on swivel brackets and a couple of keel rollers do the trick?  Its a 1975 22 Family Fisherman.

Not much weight bearing in the middle on 2"(in reality 1.5") boards for sure, no matter the type of brackets used.  When I had the 22' I used 4x6 and on my 15' I have 4x4.  Thicker bunks help spread the load.  I really like the idea of the metal bunks with just the thin boards on top.  

KEEL ROLLERS SHOULD NOT BE WEIGHT BEARING!  They are there to keep you from hitting the cross members when launching or loading. One slightly out of adjustment keel roller will punch a hole in the bottom of your boat when you hit that pot hole you did not see.

[John Jones]

i prefer solid bunk to support most of the weight and i used those brackets to support the bow...

heres a similar and common setup:

This.
Even the front bunks are really not for load support.  They are just guides. They make a helluva difference when loading the boat on the trailer.

[Curious]

I like it.  I was thinking of just mounting a couple of pressure treated 4x8's with glide slicks on top and nixing the whole carpet thing altogether.  It doesn't have to look pretty. I just don't know how to get the angle right on the 4x8's so the boat isn't sitting on a sharp edge.

[Aswaff400]

I like it.  I was thinking of just mounting a couple of pressure treated 4x8's with glide slicks on top and nixing the whole carpet thing altogether.  It doesn't have to look pretty. I just don't know how to get the angle right on the 4x8's so the boat isn't sitting on a sharp edge.

what angle are your cross-members? if they are flat, whatever the dead-rise is, use a protractor and a table saw and cut the angle out of the board, if they are angled, use a protractor to find the angle of your cross-members and add/subtract from the dead-rise, ie:

flat x-member, 12 degree. dead-rise
cut 12 degrees out of the board.

7 deg x-member, 12 degree dead-rise
cut 5 degrees out of the board

[MarshMarlowe196]

I like it.  I was thinking of just mounting a couple of pressure treated 4x8's with glide slicks on top and nixing the whole carpet thing altogether.  It doesn't have to look pretty. I just don't know how to get the angle right on the 4x8's so the boat isn't sitting on a sharp edge.

what angle are your cross-members? if they are flat, whatever the dead-rise is, use a protractor and a table saw and cut the angle out of the board, if they are angled, use a protractor to find the angle of your cross-members and add/subtract from the dead-rise, ie:

flat x-member, 12 degree. dead-rise
cut 12 degrees out of the board.

7 deg x-member, 12 degree dead-rise
cut 5 degrees out of the board

That'll work.  Even if it's not perfect, the wood will eventually mold itself to the angle of the deadrise after it gets wet a few times - get as close as possible.  Whenever I was fabricating my bunks, I made sure to round off any sharp edges.