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Author Topic: 1989 Evinrude VRO  (Read 5301 times)

June 27, 2014, 12:03:49 PM
Reply #15

h20ryder

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2014, 12:03:49 PM »
How do I decarb it? Is it OK to blast carb cleaner in the lower end with the prop removed or will that eat any seals?

Sorry, total newbie here and never worked on an outboard before.

June 27, 2014, 12:26:26 PM
Reply #16

flounderpounder225

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2014, 12:26:26 PM »
Quote from: "h20ryder"
How do I decarb it? Is it OK to blast carb cleaner in the lower end with the prop removed or will that eat any seals?

Sorry, total newbie here and never worked on an outboard before.

Here is a good method, many have used it.  posted from THT and other forums:
This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Optimax and even 4 strokes...

First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3 gal red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier..
I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Merc Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that?? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 mins.
You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine. Use about 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a fuel plug on the little tanks hose.
Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she get loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 mins in the dock or just cruising around under 2500. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 mins. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 mins. If she smokes after the second time do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times. You don't need any wide open throttle, you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every 50-60hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines.
I cleaned a antique evinrude one time that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the mix through it. Seafoam has been around since the 30's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards.
You guys with the 4 strokes think you are immune from this? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they will carbon up. I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke.
Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2 stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne.
For those guys that like to do the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure. Says right on the can Oxygen Sensor Safe, for you Yam guys. After that if your engine maunf recommends a daily additive treatment then do that in the mean time, but all 2 stroke outboard need decarboned every 50-60hrs. If I owned a 4 stroke I would do it the same. Once you are set up with the tank and hose the Seafoam is only 5-6 bucks can. It to easy not to do it.
Marc
1997 245 Osprey, 250 HPDI.  SOLD

June 27, 2014, 01:06:58 PM
Reply #17

h20ryder

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2014, 01:06:58 PM »
Awesome info flounderpounder! Thanks. Will try to hunt down some Sea Foam locally today.

June 29, 2014, 06:57:02 PM
Reply #18

h20ryder

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2014, 06:57:02 PM »
Bought a can of SeaFoam. Added it to 3/4 gallon of gas in pony tank and got ready to run the motor per instructions. Also added Salt-Away to my test tank to flush the cooling passages at the same time.
Engine starts easy and I can see fuel in all lines (all replaced with Tygon yellow transparent lines for fuel and primer lines). There are some bubbles in the fuel line when running, is this normal?

The SystemCheck gauge sounds the horn at start when key is turned to ON then the 4 led warning lights turn off one by one. Then I crank the engine and after about 10 seconds at idle the "No Oil" and "Hot" light both turn on but there is no alarm horn sound.
I followed the procedure in the manual to test oil consumption and with a clear piece of vinyl tubing attached to the VRO2 with oil in it I can watch it being drawn into the VRO2 each time it pulses. So I know the VRO2 is getting oil.

Anyone have any ideas why both the "No Oil" and "Hot" lights come on and stay on but with no warning horn?

If I disconnect the white with black stripe wire on the temp sensor coming out of the port side head both "No Oil" and "Hot" lights go out. I tested the temp sensor and it shows continuity when warm but disconnects once it cools. You can actually hear it click once it cools below 86 degrees per the manual and then continuity is gone.

The factory manual isn't helping here. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. These VRO/OMS systems are tricky.

July 01, 2014, 08:24:11 PM
Reply #19

h20ryder

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2014, 08:24:11 PM »
Replaced both thermostats and installed new impellor water pump kit. Started the motor and overheat light and no oil light on after 3 minutes?
What can be causing this still?

July 01, 2014, 08:52:31 PM
Reply #20

wingtime

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2014, 08:52:31 PM »
I may be wrong but I don't think the system check came out until the mid 90s. So your motor may not support it.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

July 01, 2014, 09:17:57 PM
Reply #21

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2014, 09:17:57 PM »
Quote from: "h20ryder"
The SystemCheck gauge sounds the horn at start when key is turned to ON then the 4 led warning lights turn off one by one. Then I crank the engine and after about 10 seconds at idle the "No Oil" and "Hot" light both turn on but there is no alarm horn sound.

Anyone have any ideas why both the "No Oil" and "Hot" lights come on and stay on but with no warning horn?

If I disconnect the white with black stripe wire on the temp sensor coming out of the port side head both "No Oil" and "Hot" lights go out. I tested the temp sensor and it shows continuity when warm but disconnects once it cools. You can actually hear it click once it cools below 86 degrees per the manual and then continuity is gone

Let's dissect this shall we.

1. You've installed a newer "System Check" on a motor that didn't originally support same.
2. Lights (but no alarm) come on after a short running period.
3. Disconnecting the temp sensor (I guessing it is period for your motor) makes the lights go out.

Could it be the sensor is not compatible (as was mentioned above) with the system?
Have you investigated what sensor is used for your updated system?
Could the sensor be defective?
I'm guessing the first scenario.

Good luck. :thumleft:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

July 02, 2014, 01:04:08 PM
Reply #22

h20ryder

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Re: 1989 Evinrude VRO
« Reply #22 on: July 02, 2014, 01:04:08 PM »
BRP offers a factory update kit that adds the System Check to any motor. P/N 176709.
All sensors have been pulled and tested per the manual and everything passed inspection with multimeter and DVA.
With the motor running and a timing light connected to spark plug wire #1 I can see the #1 and #3 cylinder marks on the flywheel at random times so the manual says replace the Power Pack (ordered today along with a new regulator/rectifier).
Can bad timing or erratic spark cause overheating?
Just don't want to spend any more money on this thing if there is something else internally causing the overheat issue.

 

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