Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Express Fisherman/ Walkaround/ Explorer Rebuilds => Explorer Rebuilds => Topic started by: RickK on November 23, 2006, 07:15:47 AM
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It's been a long 2 weeks since I purchased the 230 Explorer and 2 days ago I visited the Aquasport.com site to browse around. I saw that they only had info going back to '93 and decided that I would email them and ask for info.
I sent them a nice email and explained that I now own 2 older Aquasports - the latest being a recent purchase of the 230 Explorer. I gave them the HIN and asked what years the model was made, how many (if they knew) were made, and any other info they could tell me.
Yesterday I received an email from a fella named Tom and what he sent made me almost fall out of my chair!!!
This model was made from 1991 to 1993. We made about 264 of them.
Boat serial#. ..... .. Engine serial#
AQA N0683 D292 701156
230
Year....: 1992 Model: AQUASPORT 230 EXPLORER (WALKAROUND)
Uphols.. Carpet.. Shear... Side.... Bottom.. Deck.... Liner... Floor..
NAVY-TAP GLACIER GLACIER GLACIER GLACIER GLACIER
Qty. Description.............................
1 SGL 250 YAMAHA O/B (SEE OPTIONS)
ENGINE IS 1991
1 HYD STEERING - CENTER MT SINGLE CYLINDER
1 ENGINE UPCHARGE - SGL 250 YAMAHA O/B
1 1991 ENGINES
The data he sent IS MY BOAT!!! And I found out everything is still factory (including the cushions in the cabin) to include the motor (see the ser# above), which only has 379 hours.
He also sent me the Specs and features in a word doc - which I'll post after I convert them to pdf. (I did download a specsheet which you'll see in a sec but it is for a '93 - very close anyway)
Anyway - I don't know how far back they keep the data but it's worth an email to them.
To continue, I got the call from Ray that the parts were in and I could pick her up yesterday - FINALLY :D :D :D I told him I wanted to give her one more sea trail to make sure all is well before we finish this up and I invited John (our JJ) to go along. This was going to be a REAL sea trial because the river we test in runs W-E and the wind was out of the west about 20+. Not a day you would normally want to be out in.
I picked JJ up, we had a quick lunch and were off to the dealer. They had the boat all ready to go and we piled into their truck and off we went.
We launched and I looked out into the river and it was solid 2-3ft whitecaps. I would have turned around and gone home if I was in my 170 (actually I would never had considered going out in the first place - momma didn't raise no fool!!).
Anyway, we had 4 people in the boat (2 mechanics, me and JJ) and off we went. We started turning toward the west and we got our first face full from a quartering sea. :roll: :roll: :roll: Once we were heading into the waves I kicked her up on plane and that was the last time we felt anything - she rides like a cadillac - never felt those 3 footers at all - cruised 35mph into them like they weren't there. JJ was sitting on a step behind the helm and, I think, rode that way the couple miles we headed into the wind. We were tweeking the tabs and the trim and then we got to the spot where we had the problem with the oiler the last time and she was still running fine. The mechanic told me that they replaced the main computer in her and now she's fine and hopefully will be for a long time. Anyway, I turned her around at that point and then I saw JJ standing behind me. I asked him what he thought and he said something about not feeling a thing and said that his "butt never left the step, which made me happy".
DONE DEAL - TIME TO TAKE HER HOME.
Since our photo gallery is broken I'll have to use Photobucket - hope it works ok.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0783.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18643&title=100-0783&cat=500)
I have some work to do to get her sitting on the trailer right. My hitch, I have a "speed hitch" which sits 4-5 inches lower than normal, caused alot of the weight to be on her front wheels - Dave caught this when I got to his house to "show her off". The hitch works well for the 170 but not her. Anyway, he gave me a 6" rise hitch, which I'll try Friday and then we'll take her down to his "club" again and get her sitting on the trailer right.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0791.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18645&title=100-0791&cat=500)
She needs to be buffed out now and I have a canvas guy coming over TODAY (Thanksgiving Day - he said he's single so it's just another day to him) to give me a quote to "deck her out".
Here are the siblings - quite a difference huh:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0790.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18644&title=100-0790&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0792.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18646&title=100-0792&cat=500)
The original horses
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0795.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18647&title=100-0795&cat=500)
and here are the specs:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/AQUA_PIG_230_Explorer_93.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18648&title=aqua-pig-230-explorer-93&cat=500)
Check out the fuel capacity - wallet shock compared to the 24 gal in the 170.
All in all, totally pleased. Now comes the sweat equity and the pleasure.
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Good to finally meet you Rick and I enjoyed the afternoon despite the wind. Yes, I was impressed with the ride. The Manatee River was about as nasty as it gets short of a tropical storm. The only time I got spray was when we turned quartering to the wind and anything will get wet then. The boat is clean looking and the motor sounds fine. Unknown to you, Armando and I were looking around for and listening to that rattle when you were stretching her out. I know he kept looking toward the motor trying to figure out what the noise was. He was relieved when I put my hand on that aluminum bracket and the noise stopped. I think you and your wife will enjoy her. A good buff/wax and hopefully an easy fix to that bottom paint and she will be a looker.
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Nice looking rig, Rickk. Congrats on the purchase. The $10,000 question, HOW MUCH? Did you get a good deal?
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Nice one! How about some more interior pics? You gonna lose that bottom paint?
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Congratulations again, now that it's officially sitting in the driveway.
That AS info is fascinating... you batted a home run on that one! It's surprising that detailed records still exist. As I was reading your post I was wondering if we could get a complete copy of their production records. My concern is if Genmar calls it permanent quits on the AS line and the records are destroyed or lost we'd be S.O.L.
Glad to hear you & John got together for the sea trial. Can't think of a better guy to have along. Sea conditions were right for testing things out.
Are going to do the canvas similar to Panacea?
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Nice looking rig, Rickk. Congrats on the purchase. The $10,000 question, HOW MUCH? Did you get a good deal?
Thanks - I paid a fair price for the boat, I think. :wink:
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Nice one! How about some more interior pics? You gonna lose that bottom paint?
Thanks, I am scrubbing her up, looking into all the access plates, scrubbing some more, finding goodies (and expired flares). I'll probably be able to get some more pix tomorrow when we drop her in the water to work on the trailer. Of course, we'll have to take her for a little ride since she's already in the water :wink: :wink: :wink:
Here is one I took yesterday before scrub up - forgot to post it earlier.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0794.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18649&title=100-0794&cat=500)
More to come - is anyone else having problems uploading to our gallery or have I exceeded the "non-existent" limit?
As for the bottom paint - I have to check my buddies 240 thread and see if he answered me on my bottom paint question. I'd rather lose the paint if the gelcoat is in good shape.
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Congratulations again, now that it's officially sitting in the driveway.
And in my signature :wink: Thanks buddy.
That AS info is fascinating... you batted a home run on that one! It's surprising that detailed records still exist. As I was reading your post I was wondering if we could get a complete copy of their production records. My concern is if Genmar calls it permanent quits on the AS line and the records are destroyed or lost we'd be S.O.L.
I was shocked that he gave me the data on my boat. I figured it was a slim-to-none chance of getting any info but I was totally wrong. Tom was very quick getting back with the info too.
Glad to hear you & John got together for the sea trial. Can't think of a better guy to have along. Sea conditions were right for testing things out.
Everyone I have met in our "family" has been a nice person - JJ is no exception. I almost forgot he was in the back of the boat it was so nasty out there. I was focused on what I was doing, being unfamiliar with the area - didn't hear any screaming from the back :lol: After I'd turned the boat around was when I remembered he was there.
Are going to do the canvas similar to Panacea?
I had the canvas guy over this morning and got his quote :shock:
The design is awesome though and will be much nicer than ANYTHING I've seen out there. We talked back and forth for 30+ minutes before we came up with the perfect design (don't forget it's a walk-around cuddy) for helm area and rear cockpit and it is just what I want - just VERY expensive.
Imagine this - we're talking full coverage with biminis from the windshield back to the engine cutout - the biminis join by zipper so they'll be like one but can be separated and booted up for days when we don't need the coverage (and to join the 2 biminis he had to figure out how to transition/join the 2 different widths smoothly), complete enclosure with Eisenglass or equivalent 30mm stuff in 3ft zippered sections (9 sections - easier to roll up and store small sections), 2 zip in screen sections so we can have some cross ventilation when hanging out at night or in bad weather AND a complete boat cover. So it's a lot of work.
I was just telling him that I needed to talk it over with my wife and would call him, when my wife walked out and asked what we were looking at price-wise, so I told her and without a blink, she said - LETS DO IT. I told her that the way it is laid out and designed we could tackle a little at a time so it wouldn't be so rough and she said - JUST DO IT. (and she wasn't pissed either) :shock: She did smile and say that I wouldn't be getting any birthday or Christmas presents for the next 25 years though :lol:
Anyway, I asked the guy to sharpen his pencil and get back with me - so in the next 2 days he'll leave the quote in the mailbox. He said it would take him a week or more to complete it, so it is a lot of work - and he does everything right here on premise. We'll see what he comes back with. He obviously has been spending too much time on the barrier island with all the rich people.
Otta look and function very 8) though.
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Getting the bottom paint off without harming the gelcoat would probably be best done with Peel-Away. Sodablasting, at least in my case, caused minor pitting; not a problem since the 240 will be bottom-painted. But for a bare-bottomed boat it will be noticeable. Only other method would be walnut shell blasting which will cut the paint but leave the bottom in good shape. If you have a sodablaster in your area see if he can shoot walnut shells. If he can, have a small test area on the underside of the boat done to see how it looks.
If the bottom paint was applied properly to your boat the bottom would have been sanded. If that's the case, you'd have to wet-sand the gelcoat after the paint is removed. Considering the labor and cost of stripping and wet-sanding, you might be better off just staying with the painted bottom.
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Thanks Jim - the bottom paint is a little rough, as you can see and the mechanic said he thought that the "owner used the soft stuff that washes away over time". I see some bare spots in the paint and the gelcoat looks fine underneath. Maybe I'll get lucky. Now how do you do it while on the trailer? :?:
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Looks like we've been crossing posts...
The canvas-work description sounds great! Concerning the cost, look at it this way; you and your wife will be enjoying that boat long after the invoice is just a faded memory. Not surprised your wife reacted the way she did... for several reasons. 1) The boat will be much more comfortable for her and easier on the knees, 2) The boat has a head and a space to build a meal. 3) You both can spend long days and weekends aboard and be able to keep out of the Sun. I'd also bet she's just as excited about the boat as you are.
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If it's ablative paint, maybe a few hours with a pressure-washer or steam-cleaner will blow it off. Worth a try.
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Looks like we've been crossing posts...
The canvas-work description sounds great! Concerning the cost, look at it this way; you and your wife will be enjoying that boat long after the invoice is just a faded memory. Not surprised your wife reacted the way she did... for several reasons. 1) The boat will be much more comfortable for her and easier on the knees, 2) The boat has a head and a space to build a meal. 3) You both can spend long days and weekends aboard and be able to keep out of the Sun. I'd also bet she's just as excited about the boat as you are.
I think you're right - once she saw this boat (she never saw it before I backed her into the yard), she got very excited because it is so roomy. Doesn't have a head - will have to get a porta-potty and that's on my list. We'll also have to get a BBQ for the meals but that's where all the fun is (also on my list - any preferences anyone?). She was very happy walking around the boat and immediately brought the dog onboard <!-- s:roll: -->:roll:<!-- s:roll: -->
When I downloaded the 230 specs I also grabbed the specs on the Panacea - the 250 Explorer -
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/AQUA_PIG_250_Explorer_94.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18650&title=aqua-pig-250-explorer-94&cat=500)
Dave's boat is the big brother of mine and in the 2ft difference between my boat and his is that the cabin has a marine head and a little kitchen counter/area. His also has a bigger front-end (above cabin), 6" more beam and an enclosed transom with swim platform/bracket. The cockpit size is the same depth on both though. Actually being on his boat over the years inspired me to get one - just had to fit in the yard. His is a great "anything but skinny water" boat. I have the best of both worlds now though, still having the 170!!
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If it's ablative paint, maybe a few hours with a pressure-washer or steam-cleaner will blow it off. Worth a try.
Great suggestion - worth a try. I'll try it Saturday and let you know.
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Looks great! On the Hull thruth there was a guy with a contender type boat, bottom painted, he sodablasted his and the gelcoat came out from under in great shape. The tread has pictures pricing etc. I don't think it was that expensive. I'll see if I can find the thread.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thre ... ightmode=1 (http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=120731&start=1&highlight=soda+blasting&highlightmode=1)
Found it :lol:
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JUST DO IT
My kind of woman! :wink:
I found 2 buckets (2.5 gal each?) of Peel-Away for half price at Boat US. I haven't gotten up the initiative to try it yet. I was waiting on cooler weather, now that it's not hot, there is the knee I'm using for an excuse now :roll:
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The canvas guy came back yesterday with a solid price and IT WAS HIGHER THAN THE ORIGINAL (by a hundred bucks)!! So much for sharpening the pencil :roll:
I asked for some references and I caught him a little off guard. He gave me a marina as one - I called them on the spot and they told me they wouldn't let anyone else on premise. 8) For the next reference, he told me he'd open his receipt book and I could call anyone I wanted. :shock: That's the way it should be. I told him to go ahead with the project. Will be done before christmas.
Dave and I put a new ball on the 6" rise drawbar that he gave me (ended up having to heat and cut the old ball off - took us every bit of an hour to change out the balls). The we hooked up to the 230 and it looked like just changing the height of the draw bar had her center of gravity sitting back where it should be - 8) .
We trailered the boat to the ramp - about 10 miles, paying close attention to how she trailered now. She seemed a little light in tongue weight because she was squirming around a little, so we moved the boat forward on the trailer 4" and took her for another tow. Now she felt good and solid - and we got to really test out how she'd follow when this dumb $#&% crossed in front of us and decided she was going too fast for the curb and almost stopped in front of us :x . Anyway, the 230 and the Tundra passed the trailering test.
Now it was time to drop her in the water and chill. Tide was real low and had to back her off the trailer with the motor - Dave handled that like it was his own. Wind was up around 15 out of the north so there was some chop in the bay - no problem. We headed out through the pass into the gulf to see what it was like there and to take a little cruise around this island - about a 4 mile trip. We were greeted with whitecaps and swells. I need to get used to the planers and trim so this was a good arena for it. We headed south in a following sea and the swells were pretty big so we had a mildly rough ride but a good learning experience. I definitely need to learn these planers and how to level the ride - all in time I guess. We came around the island, into the pass and then back into the bay - then we shut her down and drifted with the wind. Now this is where she really shines. There is so much room in her I couldn't get over it. In my 170 there are only a couple of places you can relax, in the 230 there are only a couple places where you can't relax. :D We drifted for about an hour, shooting the breeze and investigating everything in the boat. It'll be nice when the biminis are installed and I have the deck chairs I just bought, on the boat and in use, cold one in hand. 8)
Anyway, packed it in for the day and towed her back home. Another thing off the list. Maybe I can get the wife out on her Sunday.
One thing I did find out is that the hour meter DOES NOT WORK :x , guess I didn't really notice that on the 2 sea trials, so all bets are off on how many hours are really on this motor. Also, the tach started freaking out and displaying weird stuff - ain't that just the way stuff happens - drive it off the lot and .....
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Taking the boat out out on your own terms is where you start to learn how she handles and where the little things are that need attending. I imagine it'll take quite a while to get tab trimming down to a matter of instinct.
Regarding the intermittent tach & hour meter, could be grounding or poor terminal connections.
If you had high water at the ramp do you feel you could launch/retrieve single handed?
Does the cockpit self-bail OK?
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Those canvas guys are $proud$ of their work.
Hour meters are a PITA. Mine only showed 987 on a 13 year old motor :lol: :lol: :lol:
If the tach is acting up, be sure and check the charging voltage when the motor is running. On a lot of motors the voltage regulator and the tach signal come from the same electronics box.
Trim tabs do take a little getting used to. I didn't notice what kind of switch you have. Normally they are dual rockers. If they are wired correctly, just look at the pair of switches as the boat. Don't think about which does what with what tab.
Press down on the right front and the right bow will go down, etc.
Press both rear switches together and the stern will go down and bow up. After a full day with a lot of running I can't remember where they are so I press the rear of both to bring them all the way up and start over. Experiment in the driveway and find out how long (one thousand and one, one thousand and two...) it takes to go from full up to full down and to make sure that they travel equally. I have learned that about 3 seconds of down on both tabs (front of the switches) is a good starting point for my normal cruise attitude. Don't over-correct. It takes a couple of seconds for the boat to level out to a new setting.
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Any way to set up trim position indicators?
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I think most offer them. Couple of hundred $. I don't have room for them if I wanted to spend the money.
(http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/TPIsmall.jpg)
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trimd.htm (http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trimd.htm)
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By the way, anyone with Bennetts, they have a great troubleshooting page.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trouble.htm (http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trouble.htm)
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Rick, you asked about sodablasting so I went out and took a close-up shot (1.5" away from hull) to show the effects. The pits look large in the picture but but could be wet-sanded out. Wet sanding a hull your size would be a big task. Anyway, I just wanted you to see the "after" surface.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_202.jpg)
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Taking the boat out out on your own terms is where you start to learn how she handles and where the little things are that need attending. I imagine it'll take quite a while to get tab trimming down to a matter of instinct.
This boat is SO different from the 170 in every possible way. It'll take some time to get used to her.
Regarding the intermittent tach & hour meter, could be grounding or poor terminal connections.
I spent the afternoon in the cabin looking at the wiring, changing out switches and such. I took the access panels off and found a rat's nest - not in wiring - I'm talking about a real rat/mouse nest. Thankfully the occupant was not at home :lol: Big wad of paper towels, all shredded up. I also found a humongous mud dauber nest - about 8 inches long - biggest I've ever seen - behind another panel. Thank goodness they weren't around either. I disconnected, inspected and reconnected the tach wiring. All looked good on this end. Maybe on the motor end? Seems that the tach display varied depending on the rpms - what I mean is at one speed you couldn't read it and at another, you could.
If you had high water at the ramp do you feel you could launch/retrieve single handed?
In time. Except for the most extreme conditions, I float the 170 back on her trailer- the 230 is not ever going to be like that. She'll have to be driven up on her trailer. This opens a whole other dimension to launching and retreiving. I was talking to Dave about this very thing yesterday and he said that he launches and retrieves by himself all the time. He has his trailer set up with a set of choker chains that you hook to the front eye and they limit how far forward the boat can go and also center the boat on the trailer. Then you hook up the winch and crank her up tight. So, I'll have to learn some more. Me and my wife are taking the 230 out this morning (wife's first trip) so we'll have to learn together on this. Should be fine.
Does the cockpit self-bail OK?
Like a champ.
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Those canvas guys are $proud$ of their work.
You got that right - hope it comes out as nice as we planned. The only hard parts are the transition in widths.
Hour meters are a PITA. Mine only showed 987 on a 13 year old motor :lol: :lol: :lol:
I cleaned the connections and put some dielectric grease on them yesterday. We'll see today if that fixed it.
If the tach is acting up, be sure and check the charging voltage when the motor is running. On a lot of motors the voltage regulator and the tach signal come from the same electronics box.
Colin, the mech at Rays, told me that they replaced the main electronic box on the motor. Hopefully it's just a connection.
Trim tabs do take a little getting used to. I didn't notice what kind of switch you have. Normally they are dual rockers. If they are wired correctly, just look at the pair of switches as the boat. Don't think about which does what with what tab.
Press down on the right front and the right bow will go down, etc.
Press both rear switches together and the stern will go down and bow up. After a full day with a lot of running I can't remember where they are so I press the rear of both to bring them all the way up and start over. Experiment in the driveway and find out how long (one thousand and one, one thousand and two...) it takes to go from full up to full down and to make sure that they travel equally. I have learned that about 3 seconds of down on both tabs (front of the switches) is a good starting point for my normal cruise attitude. Don't over-correct. It takes a couple of seconds for the boat to level out to a new setting.
I have the "joystick" and it is weird. I think the switches would be easier too. We'll see.
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Rick, you asked about sodablasting so I went out and took a close-up shot (1.5" away from hull) to show the effects. The pits look large in the picture but but could be wet-sanded out. Wet sanding a hull your size would be a big task. Anyway, I just wanted you to see the "after" surface.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_202.jpg)
That's a good pix. If I didn't know it was a hull, it could be a planet...
Thanks Jim.
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I have the joystick on the AQ and rocker switches on the Back Country. After a while you get used to the joystick. I actually think it's more intuitive.
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To continue the story - the wife and I left the house and was in the water about 730 - winds stiff out of the NE - maybe 25? Flags were sticking straight out. Headed south for about 7 miles through the ICW to the Venice Jettys. Looked at the gas gauge, was about a 1/4 and wanted to make the outside 14 mile run back up north and back inside to the ramp. I thought we could easily make it but not being real familiar with the gauges and how accurate they are, we stopped at the marina close to the jettys and decided to put 50 gals in :shock: :shock: :shock: - at $2.94/gal. Normally I would have filled her at a land based gas station but my wife urged me on. Oh well, will last a while. When I went to start her back up, I must have had the key pushed in and flooded her out. :roll: :roll: Couldn't really tell because of the electric pumps and electronic choke. She wouldn't start for nothing :x :x :x Luckily someone there told me about something called "Clear choke" or something like that- pushing the throttle all the way forward and cranking - she started 8) 8) 8) and ran flawlessly the rest of the trip. Had never had that happen to me before, in all these years on the water. Learn something new everyday.
Out the Jettys we went and turned North. We stayed out about a mile and the land to the east blocked some of the wind. The water was not too bad - 2-3s. The wind was 1/4ing so I got to learn more about the tabs. At 25 it was a little bumpy for my wife, trimmed up tight and dropped her down to 22 and it was perfect for my wife. I find out she is really a "cruiser" not a go fast type. I told her I wanted her to find out if she could be comfy in this boat, even at speed, in case we have a long cruise and can't go there at 7mph. She is now. Saw a lot of, what looked like, Tuna tearing up the bait all over the Gulf - maybe Capt Jim can pipe in here and tell me if I'm imagining things or not. Looked stocky and maybe 24", at least the ones I saw jumping. Looked too stocky for mackeral or kings but had the bumpy tail. Anyway, tons of them out there and no one trolling (I barely saw anyone) - I didn't even bring a pole. Gonna have to get a little beefier set of gear for out here, all my stuff is for the inside.
After we came out of the Gulf and were back in the ICW, there was a lot of idle/no wake zones which finished the morning off - back at home by 12 noon.
This was the first launch by "ourselves" - went smooth. The boat is a little big for the dock.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0796.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18639&title=100-0796&cat=500)
Plenty of chilling space.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0797.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18640&title=100-0797&cat=500)
Had plenty of guidance help on how to get back to port. :wink: :wink: :wink: - 2nd mate
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2nd_Mate.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18642&title=2nd-mate&cat=500)
This is the speed my wife really likes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/100_0798.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18641&title=100-0798&cat=500)
I kinda like it too.
A beautiful day - mid to upper 70s - a wonderful time and a good learning experience ta boot. Oh and BTW, the tach worked flawlessly, so futsing with it helped?
Spent the rest of the day cleaning out the fish box (the one in the floor in front of the motor in the idling pix) and the bilge. She takes on no water that I can see. Still have to learn all these pumps under the floor though.
And then I buffed out one half of the boat from gunnel down. Looks much better - will hit it again in a while after I get the topsides.
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Glad you had a good time yesterday. We went out yesterday, too, but not out on the ocean. It was windy here, too, and we had heavy rains on the way back, for about 15 minutes. We were on the Formula, so we had cover, so we just kept driving in the rain - no problem. If we had taken the Aquasport, we would have sought cover somewhere - the bimini and console cover can only keep us dry for so long.
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They call the fish "bonita" here. I am pretty sure they are actually "little tunny". Tons of fun but cat food tastes better. They will hit most anything that moves. Great shark bait.
(http://www.landbigfish.com/images/fish/LBF_little_tunny.jpg)
http://www.landbigfish.com/fish/fish.cfm?ID=161 (http://www.landbigfish.com/fish/fish.cfm?ID=161)
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Now that you post that pic, the fish did have a black topside - I was pretty sure it looked like a tuna.
I'm sure I've caught Bonita before - been a long time though and I didn't remember the black on them. Too many years on the inside I guess. If we would have been trolling a spoon or two, we'd have had a ball.
I have to get some heavier fishing gear. I have one medium rod, maybe 40-60 lb class - that would have done it for sure (my "inside dock pole" would have slayed them). Need one for my wife now or give her that one and get myself a similiar "new" one.
Thanks for clearing that up JJ.
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Figuring out Christmas presents is going to be easy in your household this year Rick.
Any idea as to what you did specifically to get the tach going? Did the Terminals look corroded?
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Figuring out Christmas presents is going to be easy in your household this year Rick.
Bimini and all that covering stuff for this year.
My wife made me promise that we wouldn't get anything else for each other this xmas. Boat plus Bimini is enough I guess for one month. (Truck was just a few months ago too.)
Any idea as to what you did specifically to get the tach going? Did the Terminals look corroded?
Nothing in particular, I disconnected the 2 plugs while I was looking behind the access panels and then reconnected - they both looked good - so dunno.
Last night, I pulled out all the anchor rope from the locker. Out came a big mud dauber nest attached to the rope - they get everywhere :roll: . The anchor is almost rusted though where it pivots so it needs to be replaced. I bought an anchor from JJ that he had laying around - good shape.
The previous owner had 2 - 150' sections of 3/8" in the locker and they were joined together with zip ties. Had some kind of knot and the free end was zip tied up the 2nd section about a ft, with about a dozen ties. I don't think this is a preferred way to join rope together but apparently it held. He also had the bitter end zip tied to the front eye's bolts on the inside of the locker - good idea - I'll have to borrow this for the new rope. The ropes didn't look to be in too bad of shape. I think I'll dunk them in some fabric softener for a while to soften them up and then I'll use them for spare. There's that hoarder in me :oops:
The 2nd or Aft anchor's rope is in good shape but the hardware is pretty rusty. I guess the shackles will rust unless they're stainless. I'll cut the shackle off and replace.
I bought some galv shackles and a 250' roll of 1/2" rope from the surplus house yesterday (doesn't count as a xmas present :lol: ). This week or weekend I'll zip tie the bitter end of the rope to the same place the previous owner had his (unless you guys have some tricks for me), load up the locker with the new rope and attach the new anchor and old chain. Is there a magic way to do this so you don't get the "memory" from the rope roll? I was thinking that since I have to unwind the rope anyway, to get to the bitter end (why do they call it this anyway?), maybe I should lay all of it flat on the road for a while and let it relax? What do you guys think?
Next, I removed all the stuff from the cabin, opened all 4 storage area covers (lots of storage room in there - but I'm sure will never be enough)and the anchor locker "tarp" and then set a bug bomb off in it. Not that I've seen any bugs, just those few mud dauber nests, so who knows.
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Here is a handy site for splicing, knots, etc.
I can see anchoring the end of the anchor rode with zip ties, maybe, but Zip Tie splicing :roll: It's amazing what one can find that previous owners have done.
http://www.animatedknots.com/ (http://www.animatedknots.com/)
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Bitter end is a nautical expression describing the end of a cable, rope, or chain attached to the "bit." The Unabridged Oxford English Dictionary provides this citation: "1867 Smyth Sailor's Word-bk. 103 A ship is 'brought up to a bitter' when the cable is allowed to run out to that stop. When a chain or rope is paid out to the bitter-end, no more remains to be let go..."
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When a chain or rope is paid out to the bitter-end, no more remains to be let go
Been there, done that, once...
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Looked like he did one half-hitch through an eye splice on the 2nd line and then zip tied the loose end back up the line about a foot. Maybe he was trying to keep it small? Not like there is a windlass on the boat.
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I put a brass spring clp on my "bitter end" to attach it to the inside of my anchor locker,this way I can remove it in a hurry if I have to and don't have to worry about losing my anchor line. :idea:
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Pete, what did you attach the clip to? The eye bolt threads? Have a link to where you got it so I can look at the clip? It would be nice if there is a ring that would thread onto the threads of the eye bolt and then the bitter end could be tied to that. I've got about 3 inches of thread left on the inside.
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I went down and dirty. I took a small piece of aluminum and drilled it to match the bow eye threads. Slipped it on and secured with two Nylok nuts. It works and it's out of sight.
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Side comment regarding anchor lines... as part of the yearly maintenance on the boat, it's good policy to end-for-end the anchor rode. Same theory as rotating the tires on your vehicles; evens out the wear.
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the way my anchor locker was built there are drain hole fore and aft,I simply went through them and around the locker base,Ill get a pic of it this weekend
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I went down and dirty. I took a small piece of aluminum and drilled it to match the bow eye threads. Slipped it on and secured with two Nylok nuts. It works and it's out of sight.
I have heavy aluminum I can easily make something like that - good idea. Now I know why I hang out with you guys. :D
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Side comment regarding anchor lines... as part of the yearly maintenance on the boat, it's good policy to end-for-end the anchor rode. Same theory as rotating the tires on your vehicles; evens out the wear.
One end has a premade eye/splice (whatever you call it) in it - now what? Gotta have one on each end?
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Put an eyesplice on the other end. It's easy to do. There should be lots of instructions available if you Google the question. Laid rope is easier to splice but braid can be done with a few simple tools. It's not unlike knitting. Splicing is a handy bit of knowledge to have up your sleeve. Once you know how, you'll be making all sorts of lanyards and custom docking lines. Good winter work on an evening in front of the fire when the snow is flying.
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Try this site http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=28 (http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=28)
Also "The Art of Knotting & Splicing" is a easy book to follow. I use the Samson site as a reference when I teach my new Seaman how to splice DBL braided line. If I do not have a step by step process for them to follow I loose them 5 min into the splice. After 5 or so with the manual they are splicing solo. I still have the Samson red book with my splicing kit from 14 years ago, always good to have. Enjoy.
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I would offer to do it for you for rope. Braid makes my head hurt. I have seen directions for doing it but I have never tried it. Check with your friendly West Marine. Some of them do it, some even for free.
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when the snow is flying.
:shock:
God forbid!
:lol:
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Talking about your head starting to hurt - mine did when I read the "Long Splice" - what the ..... I can't figure out what they are doing on this one or why.
Thanks for the link DD.
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Check with your friendly West Marine. Some of them do it, some even for free.
I was in a local West Marine when I was looking for anchor rode and the guy told me they'd splice 2 ropes together for $15. Now that I see some of the splices, that $15 is looking mighty cheap.
DD, I didn't see a splice there for splicing 3 strand rope together. I did see an "End for End" one for 8 strand - now my head hurts. Maybe I'll call the previous owner for his zip-tie expertise :lol:
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Reading Assignment:
Go down to the library and get this book:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/057109659X.jpg)
Ashley is The Classic for beginning and advanced ropework.
Glad Deck Daddy stopped by for this chat. Among their other areas of expertise, our maritime services are masters of rope work. Not just knot tying and splicing but McNamara's lace, Turk's Heads, Monkey Fists and literally thousands of decorative and practical rope devices.
Sprinkle some fancy ropework around on stancheons, around the windscreen rail and so on.
Once you do that eyesplice on your anchor rode you'll be hooked.
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Good winter work on an evening in front of the fire when the snow is flying.
HA! I'll be out fishing this winter!
Sorry Jim, had to do it.
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The "Long Splice" looks like fun. :roll:
I understand most of what they are saying. I guess trying it might make it easier to understand. I'm not that bored yet today...
I splice two 3-strands together in my own easy way which has always held. The difference between their "Long Splice" and mine is that theirs maintains the same diameter as the rope when finished. My way ends up fatter for the length of the splice.
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For the Ashley Book of Knots Jim recommended, you had better get it from the library. Amazon wants like $49 for a 1944 edition and $59 for a 1970 edition. eBay $49 - $65. :shock:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeal ... stripbooks (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_12/104-3463834-0555158?ie=UTF8&keywords=ashley%20book%20of%20knots&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aashley%20book%20of%20knots%2Ci%3Astripbooks)
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If you can't find it at the library, I'd be happy to lend you mine.
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I just dug out my "Chapman Piloting" (flea market bookstore price $4.). It has some knots and splicing including the eye splice and the short splice. It covers the eye splice in braid also. The short splice is what I used to connect the anchor lines together. I just didn't know the name. :wink:
Every boater should have and read Chapman's anyway.
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I just learned something new :shock:
Chapman's says the "breakaway anchor" we discussed a while back is called a "scow" anchor or "scowing". I thought this old brain was too sunbaked to learn anything new. Of course, I won't be able to recall the name next week.
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It's a small world. C.F. Chapman lived right down the road in Essex, Ct.
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My favorite for stancheons and rails is "Fox and Geese" topped with a Turk's Head. Leather work is also fun to pass the time. Making knife sheaths and sheaths for my fishing pliers and such. Ashley is a good book my father gave me his from the 70's. Sits on the shelf with all the other books he handed down to me when I enlisted. There are lots of good books out there, all depends on what you are wanting to learn.
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I just learned something new :shock:
Chapman's says the "breakaway anchor" we discussed a while back is called a "scow" anchor or "scowing". I thought this old brain was too sunbaked to learn anything new. Of course, I won't be able to recall the name next week.
Did they make zip ties out of rope too? :lol:
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:lol:
Yup. It just says "lash" the chain to the shank eye.
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I'm going through the 230 to check everything so I'm not surprised by anything - have lots of stuff to go through....
Yesterday:
Rebuilt the swim platform/ladder with starboard - came out pretty nice - still not as sturdy, even with 5/8" (same thickness as the teak, which was all nasty), but it is low maintenance.
Cut a small piece of 1/8" aluminum, drilled a 1/2" hole and a 5/8" hole, filed them smooth in every way, unrolled the new anchor line in the street, tied the new anchor line's bitter end to the bigger hole (good idea JJ) and was ready to attach to the front eye bolt inside the anchor line locker. I then decided to clean out the locker as best I could since this is not something you'll think about - ever!! - found a few more wasp nests (dead), vacuumed it out and then washed it out. At that point, I found out that the locker did not drain anywhere :?: I called/talked with Dave to find out if his was the same and he said that it should drain somewhere - his boat has a different locker arrangement though. He came over and we pondered on it for a bit and then he drilled a 3/8" hole from the storage beneath it in the cabin, up through into the locker area - a bit scary, checking that we weren't drilling through the hull. Dave did the job superbly, the water started to flow into the bilge as it should. Can't figure out why this was left that way - anchor line would be moldy.
I then cut the hardware/chain from the old anchor, attached new hardware to the chain, attached the chain to the new anchor line/new anchor, loaded the anchor line into the locker and secured the anchor on the pulpit. I need to get some 1/4" nylon to add as a secondary tie off of the anchor to a cleat so I don't have any surprises. Anyway, a long day and I needed to go get the lift assist cylinders for the cabin door/hatch that I had ordered (and were in) before the place closed.
Today:
I started off with installing the Garmin GPS/Chartplotter "Second station" stuff I had ordered so I could move that device from one boat to the other. This included the transducer and the GPS antenna and then pulling those cables up to the helm and then working them, and the power cables, into the dash. I spent a lot of time in the cabin today and it was brutally hot - needed a fan and will put that (or 2) on "the list".
I buffed out the dash area, by hand, before I installed the cables and mounting bracket on the dash, routed the cables up through the dash and then tested it - perfect.
I installed new lift assist cylinders for the cabin door/hatch - an easy job outside of the cabin :D - I need to cut in a hatch into the top of the cabin ceiling for more airflow.
I finished the early afternoon up by troubleshooting the NAV lights. It has a on-off-on switch for the nav/anchor light and I flipped the switch to "Nav" and the aft light came on - good thing. I went to the front and the red/green light was not lit - not good. I traced the wires through the pulpit and to the electrical "panel" area and found 2 wire ends with nothing attached :roll: When I flipped the switch to Anchor, the rear light did not come on. :?:
The switch that controlled the lights ended up being a SPDT with LED connections - not sure how the previous owner intended to be legal. I guess I need to buy a new switch - a DPDT so I can switch to NAV and then Anchor only.
Ended the day watching the BUCs get beat - as usual :roll:
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sounds like you will be ready to go this summer!make sure that you coat the inside of the drain hole with some kind of sealer or epoxy to avoid any moisture damage.how are you securing your anchor to the pulpit?I use one of those hold down clips from boatersworld and a big stainless clip for a backup.
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sounds like you will be ready to go this summer!
This summer....hell, I'll be ready this weekend :D Oh wait, I have to go to Quebec for business on Sunday for the week. :shock: Maybe next weekend after I thaw out.
make sure that you coat the inside of the drain hole with some kind of sealer or epoxy to avoid any moisture damage.
The hole was drilled through what we could figure was a prop for the liner to rest on when they lowered it in. I doubt I''ll be able to get something in there - tough enough to see in there let alone get your head AND your arms in at once. Have to think about it.
how are you securing your anchor to the pulpit?I use one of those hold down clips from boatersworld and a big stainless clip for a backup.
I was going to tie a 1/4" piece of nylon line to the last link and then tie that to a cleat at the front. It doesn't sit in the pulpit very well, definitely not square in it, anyway. I haven't done anything yet, got a link to what you're talking about?
Thx.
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I was going to tie a 1/4" piece of nylon line to the last link and then tie that to a cleat at the front. It doesn't sit in the pulpit very well, definitely not square in it, anyway. I haven't done anything yet, got a link to what you're talking about?
I'll try to make a pic of what I did and post it tomorrow. I already had an "incident" :roll: with the anchor dropping at about 20kts. I was not going to have that happen again.
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http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... ats-chocks (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157420118.htm?bct=t13037503%3Bcidocking%3Bcianchor-line-chain-hardware%3Bcicleats-chocks)
this is what I use,plus a clip as a backup,I had an accidental dropping,now I am sure to use the tensioner and a big d clip that goes through the chain to the bow cleat
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... ats-chocks (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157420050.htm?bct=t13037503%3Bcidocking%3Bcianchor-line-chain-hardware%3Bcicleats-chocks)
this would work too
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The second one looks good for sure, as long as it isn't a PITA to release. One problem I have is the anchor not fitting snug in the pulpit - if I keep the shank low, the anchor can flop right and left which I think will beat up the pulpit over time (already has some dings in it from an earlier anchor). I think I need to find a rubber/nylon edge cover to put on the bottom of the pulpit to protect it and I also need to find out a way to get the anchor up snug/flat.
Here is a pic of JJ's (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor-windlass.jpg) setup that he posted earlier. See how his shank comes up high instead of staying low on the pulpit tray. See the flukes, how they're parallel with the bottom of the pulpit? JJ it looks like you have something sticking down by the roller to stabilize the flukes - what is that? Maybe part of the roller plates? I see he also uses a tensioner. I'll have to get some pix if I get home before dark or maybe this Sat., so you guys see what I'm working with. I think I have a different setup of the pulpit than JJ. My NAV light is on the front of my pulpit, JJ I don't see your NAV light in the pic.
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I already had an "incident" :roll: with the anchor dropping at about 20kts. I was not going to have that happen again.
I had an incident in the 170 once when the anchor dropped out of my hand and landed on my foot :oops: :lol:
My luck, my anchor would drop while trailering :shock:
Anyway, I think this is a good topic to cover as pulpits are something new to me. Thanks for the help guys.
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Those ears sticking down kinda sorta stabilize the flukes if the anchor is positioned just right. They are part of the roller bracket. They were already on the boat when I got it.
The tensioner was already on the boat too. I have had no problem with it if I am the one who secures it. I had the incident when someone else secured the anchor and we took off for another spot. It is really sensitive to how much slack one leaves in the chain. If it's loose, the anchor flops around but with no problems. If one secures it too tight, the tensioner comes unlatched then with just the right bounce and there she goes :cry: Look just to the rear of that tensioner kind of inline with the windlass and you will see the device I made to truly secure it. It's cheap, easy, and works well, even for my dummy fishing buddies.
My current front nav light is a short plug-in pole light. The bulge beneath the very front of the pulpit is to cover the recessed socket for the pole light. That is what makes the shank stand at the high angle. I would like to change to the "shark eye" type nav lights someday but I have other stuff higher on the priority list.
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Was the pulpit & roller arrangement designed to fit a Danforth?
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I assume so. It all fits pretty well and pulls up okay. The only issue is the angle of the shank caused by the recessed light socket. The recessed light socket cover underneath the front is an add-on. Home made by the previous owner from the looks of it. It would lay flat if not for that. The angle doesn't bother me.
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Long as it works....
Can you drop & pull the hook from the helm or do you have to go forward?
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I have to go forward. I have been on lots of boats with windlasses including some fancy stuff like a Grady-White 330 Express with $1600 windlasses. NONE of them are a helm only operation all the time. Ropes twist, chains hang in the gypsy, etc. I went with cheap and reliable using the capstain type. Seldom am I alone anyway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/DSC01174.jpg)
Rick. I went to our friends at Marine Surplus and bought a stainless "ladder gudgeon" for $5.
(http://www.garelick.com/images/products/99150.jpg)
I used that and a SS quick release pin as a safety.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_006.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_005.jpg)
Here is the existing tensioner but they are a PITA.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_004.jpg)
Top view of the pulpit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_003.jpg)
Bottom view of the pulpit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_002.jpg)
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I like that ladder part as a backup for the tensioner.what kind of pin is that in there?
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It's a "quick release pin". They can be found at some hardware stores, Tractor Supply Co. and other farm stores, or online at http://www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com).
I made a leash for it with 120# plastic coated fishing leader wire.
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Here are some more pix:
Cabin minus the cushions (before cleanup):
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/cockpit_minus_cushions2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18632&title=cockpit-minus-cushions2&cat=873)
Has pretty good storage under the bunks in 3 places.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/cockpit_minus_cushions3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18633&title=cockpit-minus-cushions3&cat=873)
You can see the anchor locker access at the front. Has a vinyl type snap on cover (on right shelf). We were working in the center bunk storage locker drilling up into the anchor locker. You can tell there isn't much room to be doing that. You have to be a contortionist to even look UP in those storage places.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/cockpit_minus_cushions1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18631&title=cockpit-minus-cushions1&cat=873)
Here is the pulpit:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/pulpit2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18635&title=pulpit2&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/pulpit1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18634&title=pulpit1&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/pulpit5.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18637&title=pulpit5&cat=873)
Pretty sloppy there. I need that edge protector or it won't be long before it's all beat up. Anyone have any ideas?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/pulpit3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18636&title=pulpit3&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/pulpit4.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18638&title=pulpit4&cat=873)
I didn't climb up in the boat to get an above shot, was on a ladder and in a hurry to get to work.
I have to pull it in real tight and then the shank wants to ride high like JJ's but now no way to secure it to stay up that high.
JJ, I saw that pin in the pic you posted and thought it looked out of place. I had been looking at the same type of windlass at West. That's a good idea though. Are you recommending skipping the tensioner and just going with the setup you made?
Maybe I can put a tensioner up close to the anchor, drill a hole in the shank and attach directly to the anchor?
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From 1700 miles away it sure looks like that pulpit was designed for a CQR plow. Plows tuck in nice & neat and were designed for pulpit stowage.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/CloseupofCQR.jpg)
Danforths are horrible to stow in any pulpit. I think all you can do with the anchor you've got is protect the area around it from getting chewed up. Very important to work out something that will keep it from shifting while underway. There are chain stoppers available which provide a positive lock on the chain; much more secure hold than the cleat:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/L9046.jpg)
Chain is nothing like line; it's slippery and on a cleat it can let go with just a nudge.
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If I didn't have to fill the holes, I would remove the tensioner :wink:
Check around online for the windlass. I got mine from Scuba Steve as well as most of my electronics.
http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufac ... rwinch.htm (http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufacturers/powerwinch/powerwinch.htm)
It looks like they changed the name but it is similar to the Powerwinch Capstan 300.
From my original order:
1.
Item Name: Powerwinch 26' Class Freefall windlass 500lb pull - P77726
Item Number: 16610
Quantity: 1
Total: $425.00 USD
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I have a tensioner on mine plus a stainless clip that goes through the cleat and chain.You really need 2 methods of securing the anchor in case 1 lets go while under way,the tensioner can be a PITA but it holds the anchor tight against the pulpit, might try the ladder part in addition to the tensioner,great idea
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From 1700 miles away it sure looks like that pulpit was designed for a CQR plow. Plows tuck in nice & neat and were designed for pulpit stowage.
I agree, I tried to buy 3 different plow types on eBay but was outbid on each at the last second :x . If you remember the anchor thread I started, the Danforth/Fortress type seem to have the best holding power overall, so that is why I bought the one from JJ.
Danforths are horrible to stow in any pulpit. I think all you can do with the anchor you've got is protect the area around it from getting chewed up. Very important to work out something that will keep it from shifting while underway.
I agree that it ain't pretty, I wrapped that chain on the cleat as a temporary thing - the canvas guy wanted the anchor on so he could make the cover with enough room in it, in that area. I'll have to spend a little time looking at Dave's setup and see how he tackled this too.
I've seen some boats with their Danforth type anchors hanging down a bit in these types of pulpits - that was their answer to this. :roll:
Here is an AS with a special Danforth type anchor pulpit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aquasport-205-Osprey-very-nice-boat-low-hours_W0QQitemZ170058491971QQihZ007QQcategoryZ31271QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) - lays nice and flat on that type.
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That would probably be the way to do it if you don't like the way the others ride.
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I tried to buy 3 different plow types on eBay but was outbid on each at the last second :x
I tried again today, for kicks, to bid on a CQR and I had it for hours and hours, :D 'til the last 3 minutes, then a guy that never bid until then, started letting it rip. I held him off until 20 secs and then he won :cry: I hope he enjoys his anchor. :cry:
I sometimes think that it is either the seller using a different login or a relative or employee or someone involved somehow, because they come out of nowhere and blindside you. I think I'll watch the guy's reviews that won and see if I can peice anything together. This is the 4th or 5th time I've been blindsided. I can be the only one bidding on the object until the last few minutes and then WHAM!! Just ain't right :cry:
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Last-minute hit & run bidders are a fact of life on eBay it seems. Keep at it, sooner or later you'll win. Took me two months and about ten auctions to finally win the bidding for the 170 kicker.
One other place you might try is the marine surplus store JJ browses occasionally. He found new s.s. vents for me there at a good price. Maybe they've got anchors too.
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What can I say. I'm guilty. This is the ONLY way I bid on eBay. Doesn't always work but it helps. Set it for 5 seconds and let her rip. I can be asleep, fishing, on an airplane. My bid still goes in 5 seconds before close.
http://www.auctionsniper.com/default.aspx (http://www.auctionsniper.com/default.aspx)
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One other place you might try is the marine surplus store JJ browses occasionally. He found new s.s. vents for me there at a good price. Maybe they've got anchors too.
Oh, they have anchors but they're not cheap there either. They have a danforth plow for $150 - . Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aquasport-205-Osprey-very-nice-boat-low-hours_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31271QQihZ007QQitemZ170058491971QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) is their eBay store. I have bid on their anchors too (trying to get them cheaper than at the store) - being the only one to bid, period, only to be outbid in the last few minutes. That's why I think there is some foul play on some of these sites - you can watch those anchors and the times I have watched, they've expired with zero bids. But if I bid, then someone else does at the end and always beats me.
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What can I say. I'm guilty. This is the ONLY way I bid on eBay. Doesn't always work but it helps. Set it for 5 seconds and let her rip. I can be asleep, fishing, on an airplane. My bid still goes in 5 seconds before close.
http://www.auctionsniper.com/default.aspx (http://www.auctionsniper.com/default.aspx)
YOU DAWG!!! :lol:
Ok, that being said, how much do they charge? I went as far as the username/password entry and then bailed - no mention of how much it costs though.
I bet some of these vendors snipe their own product (see my reply to Jim above) to keep the prices up. I know it is "against eBay rules" but you have to prove it or they don't get in trouble.
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How much does Auction Sniper cost?
Auction Sniper gives each new user 3 free snipe credits. After these are used up, you must upgrade your account. If you use a credit card, Auction Sniper will then automatically bill your account monthly. We charge a modest fee of 1% of the final auction price, with a minimum of 25 cents and a maximum of $9.95 for each auction that we help you win.
Fees
It‘s under Products/How much? (don‘t log in to see this tab) and also under Help/Pricing and Payment Details. Please read the pricing information in the link below:
http://www.auctionsniper.com/payment.aspx (http://www.auctionsniper.com/payment.aspx)
Free
Free? Yes free: if you get your friends or neighbors to sign up with us, each sign-up will net you 3 free snipes---and of course they get 3 free snipes for trying us too. Everybody wins! Use this link:
http://www.auctionsniper.com/refer.aspx (http://www.auctionsniper.com/refer.aspx)
I put in $5 at at time via PayPal. Lasts forever.
Don't forget to let me refer you :wink:
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I'm off to Montreal in the AM, so if any of you FL boyz hear a scream coming from the North, that'll be me. Actually it is going to be summer-like up there this week , thank god.
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Actually it is going to be summer-like up there this week , thank god.
Yeah, right. Brrrrr
Godspeed!
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.... from Scuba Steve as well as most of my electronics.
http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufac ... rwinch.htm (http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufacturers/powerwinch/powerwinch.htm)
The VHF radio in the 230 was doing nothing except turning on the lights so it was on "the list" for replacement. This morning I found a site here (http://www.limitedgoods.com/) that was $20+ cheaper, which covered the shipping, so I ordered an ICOM IC-M302 . Might be a site you guys want to bookmark. Seems to be electronics oriented.
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Actually it is going to be summer-like up there this week , thank god.
Yeah, right. Brrrrr
Godspeed!
What are you doing in town so much lately - or are you?
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Summer-like in Montreal... in December?????
Have a good trip. Don't forget the SPF 45 sun-screen.
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Good one Jim. :lol:
I'm in town for 2 reasons. Business is always slow this time of year. I'm not hiking around airports and power plants with the bum knee and they don't have much for me to do at home right now except a few tech support phone calls.
I had arthroscopic surgery on the knee yesterday. I'm doing pretty good so far as long as I take the hydrocodone as prescribed. I went about two hours over today before taking a pill and the knee let me know the meds were overdue. I should be back on the road by Jan.
I have the ICOM M302 in my flats boat. Good radio. I interfaced it with the Garmin so the DSC will work. I have the M502 in the 22-2.
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Summer-like in Montreal... in December?????
Have a good trip. Don't forget the SPF 45 sun-screen.
High 30's and low 40s for highs - isn't that summer-like? I only saw one day with a "partly sunny" forecast - the rest overcast, so I don't think I'll need the sunscreen. But thanks for reminding me anyway :lol:
I had arthroscopic surgery on the knee yesterday. I'm doing pretty good so far as long as I take the hydrocodone as prescribed. I went about two hours over today before taking a pill and the knee let me know the meds were overdue. I should be back on the road by Jan.
I hope your knee is like new when it heals. You needed a break from the road anyway. This is the last trip of the year for me and looking at my schedule for next qtr, Detroit is booked for March, so far - hope it thaws out by then. I'm sure a few trips will pop up before then too, as usual.
I have the ICOM M302 in my flats boat. Good radio. I interfaced it with the Garmin so the DSC will work. I have the M502 in the 22-2.
Yeah, it looked like a nice small radio - I'll have to read my Garmin 188C manual to see if that can be interfaced. Better to use the DSC properly, if possible. I bought an ICOM IC-M72 handheld vhf for the 170 and I keep it in the "boat bag", so it's actually a spare for the 230 too. It's a very small 6W workhorse - most powerful I could find. I don't have a whip antenna on the 170 and don't want one - since she's an "inside" boat, the handheld should be enough. Hope I never have to use either. I guess if you carry them, you're supposed to monitor 16 at all times anyway??
Yesterday I installed a new Nav Light on the bow, put in the new DPDT switch and the Nav/Anchor lights work as designed now. I think I have to get a new anchor light - the new biminis might be as high as the 4ft light I have now. I saw a 5ft one being discontinued at Boaters World the other day when I was there. Breaks down in half for storage. THE BIMINI GUY STARTS TOMORROW :D When I get back Saturday from Montreal, I should have biminis, at a minimum - maybe a boat cover too by then.
I pulled up the hatches in the aft also and took a look at the 3 pumps down in the bilge. The 1500gph rear bilge pump works fine - very quiet, couldn't hear anything, had to touch it to make sure it was working.
The previous owner has a pump inline with a drain from the fish box to a hose/shower. Only thing I can figure is he'd fill the fish box with fresh water and use this 500gph pump for freshwater rinse. Don't know what to do with this now. It wasn't connected to power, so I traced/fixed that one. It would be nice to put a fresh water tank in back there somehow. Have to ponder on this for a while.
The 700gph raw water pump, on a thruhull pickup, still won't come on. It's tough to trace wiring through a boat, that's for sure. Seems easier to pull new then trace existing. This one is plumbed to the baitwell and the previous owner put a "Y" in the plumbing to a different hose/shower, I guess for raw water washdown. Have to put a few more hours into this.
Courtesy lights, the lights that light up the floor in the aft, don't come on either and I have to put a few hours into them soon too. I'm contemplating putting some other form of lighting under the gunnels instead of trying to figure out the old lights. I've traced them a little so far but haven't put a meter on them yet.
I've looked at my "list" and the only big ticket item I have left to buy is the stainless gas BBQ. Then I'll be ready to try her out camping.
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Wiring always takes a beating on a boat. Had pretty much the same problems with the 170. The 240... well, that's another keg of nails :roll: :roll:. Probably not a bad idea to plan a long term goal of pulling all new wire through. Then you'll know things are on a good footing.
JJ, advice doc. gave me was to take the pain pills before the pain kicks in. Naturally, I experimented by ignoring the advice & regretted it. Jeez, we sound like a bunch of old fa*ts discussing our ailments.
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I feel old but I refuse to give up :wink:
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Cheer up!
Once the knee's back in fighting trim you'll be back to your usual youthful exuberance. Lots of good projects on the horizon.
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I feel old but I refuse to give up :wink:
I don't think giving up is easy as we get older (read that as hard heads), it's giving IN that gets easier :wink:
I'm trying to watch football up here and they have one football channel in the Hilton and it's in French :roll: (They do have 3 ice skating channels though - a whole different world of preferences up here)
What do you guys think of the LED lighting options available for under gunnel applications? This goes back to the courtesy lighting problems I'm having. I think I remember Tim commenting on them in an earlier post.
I was thinking maybe these (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/196977144msk.htm) for the steps and maybe these (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/196790729msk.htm) or these (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/196790752msk.htm) (or maybe both) for under gunnel/protected night lighting. Probably wouldn't hurt to have one in the bilge area too.
Also, I'm finding out the previous owner has a lot of stuff wired directly to the batteries. I can understand bilge pumps but the entire switch panel is wired direct and the radios are too. I see now why he wanted lighted switches, so maybe he wouldn't forget to turn them off.
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I like the LED option since the fixtures have sealed "bulbs", at least the ones I've seen are. Having light in the bilge area might be handy when you're running at night and want to check in there.
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A friend of mine used these LED tubes under his gunwales. Scroll down.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini_tubes.htm (http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini_tubes.htm)
Waterproof and a life time warranty.
They also sell LED "bulbs" to replace standard 12 v bulbs.
I used a red trailer LED side marker light for a dome light over my console. Just enough light to find a switch without killing night vision. $8.88 instead of $24.
Now I'm looking for something to put under the poling platform on my flats boat to tie lines in the dark. It might be another trailer marker light. What can I say, I'm cheap.
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I like the LED option since the fixtures have sealed "bulbs", at least the ones I've seen are. Having light in the bilge area might be handy when you're running at night and want to check in there.
The bilge area in this boat is big enough for me to step down into. It's like the area they would put an i/o motor into, to include a platform at the bottom. See the double hatches back by the motor in this pic -
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Chillin_space.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2177&title=chillin-space&cat=500)
they both lift out opening a 3'x4' area to the bilge. If I need to get down there while camping, and it's dark, I thought hands-free light, especially sealed LED, would be handy.
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I was thinking about putting in both red and white courtesy (and step) lights and putting them on a DPDT so I could select either for different scenarios.
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Hey, you should have had those chairs when we took the wet test :wink:
Looks nice. I won't have room for them until I close the transom and open the motor well.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Chillin_space.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2177&title=chillin-space&cat=500)
JJ, the current lights are on both sides of the boat (right behind the aft chair) on the forward facing edge of the storage cabinets that are on either side of the motor. With the LED lights I was talking about, do you think the red ones would give enough flood effect to help? I'm pretty sure that the whites will, since they say they're as bright as the incandescent bulbs. I also want to put the white and red "step" versions above the steps going forward (Where you were sitting on the wet test). Maybe I should put another pair on the aft facing wall where the rod holders start (just in front of the speakers) and put a switch on them in case it's too bright?
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Looks good Rick,You will have alot of fun with it.My center scupper wouldnt drain because engine covered hole,so put in 2 more scuppers. Just finished crab pot puller,ready to go. Have fun!!!!
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The reds would be fine if your eyes were well adjusted to the dark. I'm afraid they might not be enough otherwise. Someone turning on a flashlight for just a second will kill these old eyes for 30 minutes.
Side note. Fishing last year at night with a friend. He had one of the LED cap mounted lights. He would say something and I would turn his way to talk to him and every single time he had that light on looking you right in the face. :roll: I finally just gave up and turned the spreader lights on.
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Montreal Today-
Sunny. Becoming cloudy near noon. Wind northeast 20 km/h. High plus 1.
Palmetto -
75° F | 59° F
24° C | 15° C
Have a nice day :wink:
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Montreal Today-
Sunny. Becoming cloudy near noon. Wind northeast 20 km/h. High plus 1.
Palmetto -
75° F | 59° F
24° C | 15° C
Have a nice day :wink:
You been talking to my neighbor? He called yesterday to tell me the same thing - geez, friends :roll: :lol: :lol:
At least I see some sun this morning - been overcast the last 2 days and not too cold (high 30s & low 40s). AND I DON'T HAVE TO GO OUTSIDE (if I don't want to)!! :wink:
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:lol:
I was in Edmunton, Alberta last January. The town is set up nice. Most everything is indoors and protected walkways to cross the streets on the second floor of all buildings. Didn't even need a jacket to walk from the hotel to find something to eat.
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Looks good Rick,You will have alot of fun with it.My center scupper wouldnt drain because engine covered hole,so put in 2 more scuppers. Just finished crab pot puller,ready to go. Have fun!!!!
Haven't heard much from you recently FH!! Where ya been?
It seems that my motor does cover about 1/8 of the center scupper (bottom 1/8) but she seems to drain fine - has 2 other scuppers on the back corners. I was initially concerned about the back end of the boat being open, but after riding in her and watching what happens when I come off plane, there is no concern anymore. One thing I think I would like to do is put a piece of starboard, or something that won't look bad, across the opening to create a splashwell. Maybe put some track along the sides and bottom, somehow. This will accomplish several things: act as a splashwell, keep the noise down from the motor and keep the dog from falling off the end of the boat :roll: (which will keep my wife happy, which has a rippling effect, ya know) . :wink:
So what did you make the crab pot puller out of? A windlass or something bigger, like on the alaskan crabbing show?
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:lol:
I was in Edmunton, Alberta last January. The town is set up nice. Most everything is indoors and protected walkways to cross the streets on the second floor of all buildings. Didn't even need a jacket to walk from the hotel to find something to eat.
Downtown Minneapolis is like that too.
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I hope I never see it. :wink:
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I was sitting in the hotel (staying warm) and wondering the best way to control the courtesy lights like we were talking about - 1) turning on either red or white in the aft(forward facing) and 2) also being able to turn on/off forward (rear facing) lights of the same color. I could do 2) easily with 2 switches but only wanted one there. I came up with this:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Lightswitchdrawingforboat.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18630&title=lightswitchdrawingforboat&cat=500)
Look ok? Anyone know of an easier way - I don't have room for another switch on the switch panel at the helm. (I wish the photo gallery would get fixed)
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Hi Rick,My 230 actually came with a factory splash board but I never use it.Its probably only maybe 12 in. high.I made a crossbar you might be interested in made up of 2 stainless bimini top ends on a 1 in. stainless rail with quick pins.Goes across just infront of engine and holds a center rod holder.Use it for shotgun rod tuna and keeps from falling out back.Easy to install in seconds, no screws to mess with.Having trouble uploading photo,Im sure some guys might like pic, really solves center rod holder problem,not having full transom to mount one in.I made my pot puller from 2 in. galv. fence post,bent at muffler shop and welded plate to bolt windless to. Speed up gearing with larger pully for rope and added idler pully to center rope from block.Pulls 80 ft. minute with traps wighing 40 lbs.
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Hi Rick,My 230 actually came with a factory splash board but I never use it.Its probably only maybe 12 in. high.I made a crossbar you might be interested in made up of 2 stainless bimini top ends on a 1 in. stainless rail with quick pins.Goes across just infront of engine and holds a center rod holder.Use it for shotgun rod tuna and keeps from falling out back.Easy to install in seconds, no screws to mess with.Having trouble uploading photo,Im sure some guys might like pic, really solves center rod holder problem,not having full transom to mount one in.I made my pot puller from 2 in. galv. fence post,bent at muffler shop and welded plate to bolt windless to. Speed up gearing with larger pully for rope and added idler pully to center rope from block.Pulls 80 ft. minute with traps wighing 40 lbs.
So, they only had a 12" splash, hmm - I guess mine will be custom. Unfortunatley, it'll impede getting in and out of the boat from the rear but once on the water, shouldn't be a big problem. I'd like to see what you're talking about too.
There is an alternative for posting pix - open a free acct here (http://photobucket.com/). You upload the pix there and then chose the one you want to post here, on the 3rd row below the pic you'll see a "IMG Code" line - click on the line below that and copy. Now, paste that line into your post. It will look something like this except with [ ] in it - {IMG}http://....{/IMG}. Now your pix will show up in your post. One day we'll get our beloved site back in shape and you'll be able to do everything you used to, right here again.
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I found these (http://www.ledshoponline.com/images/anchorlight.jpg)
LED bulbs (http://www.ledshoponline.com/FLUX_masthead_lights.htm) - from Australia. Are not water proof but look like they'll do the job, if they fit within the cap of a perko. Roughly $40 AUD (??)
Also found on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1142-LED-Tower-Marine-Anchor-and-Navigation-Light-Bulb_W0QQitemZ290061147367QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50437QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) for a much cheaper price :D
Here is a US version but is described as the "Rolex" of LED Lights - so expect to dig deep for this (http://firststarled.com/products.html)(http://firststarled.com/images/MKIII%20anchor%20light%20bulb.jpg)
Here is another that is available for about $60US, close by (http://www.lunatronic.net/index.html) (http://www.lunatronic.net/pics/lunaled27b.gif)
Ok, I'm "burned out" searching for these - the results are all becoming repeats.
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Lot of $ for lights. Why are LED's still so expensive?
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Lot of $ for lights. Why are LED's still so expensive?
The 360 light is the expensive one - and coast guard listing raises the price (or at least gives them the "right" to increase it). If I'm camping on the boat, I don't need a huge drain on my battery since I have to leave it on all night - so "ya gotta pay" I guess. The $10 one on eBay is reasonable I think. I need to check my connector before I try to bid on one. The Bimini guy is working on the boat now, so when I get back in town Saturday, I'll be able to tell if my 48" light will be high enough to be above the bimini or if I have to buy the 60" model.
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For that much money I'll stay with the old technology, or make my own.
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For that much money I'll stay with the old technology, or make my own.
For $10, unless you're bored, it's hard to justify the time/expense of making it yourself.
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I missed the $10 part, but that's just the beginning bid. Similar buy it now prices on his site are $18.99.
http://search.stores.ebay.com/Spectruml ... 79QQsofpZ0 (http://search.stores.ebay.com/Spectrumled_1142_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ3QQfsnZSpectrumledQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftsZ2QQsaselZ136070279QQsofpZ0)
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Nothing wrong with incand. if they're sealed up properly. Lots more fixture availability too.
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except for the current draw for an overnighter.
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This might help(http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/Fishhead_05/HMBtuna003.jpg)
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This is why (http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/Fishhead_05/HMBtuna004.jpg)the need for more scuppers,the outsides are too high.Most of the time I put duct tape on the seams of thebilge hatches,keeps the mess flowing out instead of down.
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Heres a back view of scup(http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/Fishhead_05/boat-bradysfieldtrip-soccer260.jpg)pers
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When you install your air conditioner for overnighters, you will have to install a generator. Just add a battery charger and the current draw will not be a problem. :wink:
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When you install your air conditioner for overnighters, you will have to install a generator. Just add a battery charger and the current draw will not be a problem. :wink:
:lol:
I don't think we'll have a AC unit onboard, nor a generator. You never know though, once my wife experiences life without one. :wink:
With the way the canvas guy designed the enclosure, having 2 zip in/out screens, it should help with air flow. I'm also going to cut a hatch into the top of the cabin to complete the airfow path.
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Thanks for posting the pix Fishhead - wasn't too bad, huh. When we get our photo gallery back up, you look for the same IMG line on the pix there and paste that into your posts too.
I see what you mean about the upper scuppers being too high. WAY TO DIRTY UP THE BOAT 8) 8) 8) The scuppers you put in, in the lower basin look like they do the job with a washdown. Have to keep that in mind.
Looks like you keep her nice and clean - I like the color matching of the canvas and the top of the transom. What is that cap anyway. I have something like it, in a tan color, but haven't looked real close at it. Was that a repair or what?
Questions:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/fishbox.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18629&title=fishbox&cat=877)
1) Here is a rough drawing of my bilge access (which is like yours). The outer square is the bilge access hole, the dashed line close to the outer square is the hatch cover, the inner dashed line is the fishbox hatch cover. The inner solid lines is the fishbox liner with fishbox and drain in the bottom of it. The question I have about this is I have an empty rectangular hole in the back of this liner - do you? If not, what do you have there? It's like I'm missing something. I was thinking of putting some kind of removable fresh water tank there.
2) Are you getting the washdown supply from the thru-hull that I think is for the baitwell under the captains chair? The previous owner of my boat put a "Y" in the hose coming off the pump for a raw water wash.
3) What year is your boat? - the aft looks identical to mine.
4) Does your boat have a hatch in the top of the cabin?
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Another question FishHead - where does the 12" splashboard install? Does it fit down inside the splashwell directly in front of the motor? That leaves the sides open, huh? That would be a way to funnel the stuff out the side top scuppers. Unfortunately, my dog could "funnel" her way out too - I guess only once though :roll: (http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/Fishhead_05/HMBtuna003.jpg)http://
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Rick,Do you have a plastic cap on top of the transom edge where the main motor mounts?I know what you mean about the area behind the fishbox.My plan for it is :lol: to cut out the back of fishbox tab in new glass,fill new bottom and gell the whole mess.That will make that whole area one big fish box.I dont really need more fish storage,remember it was a center console so I have 3 fish boxes in front deck.That would save the walk to the front to store fish.I put a through hull in to pull waterfor washdown and livewell,its in rear bilge.I lost my livewell when the console pulled out so I use a 13 gal. aquaworld,just set it on floor in rear corner and strap it down.This boats a 93.The splash board goes across just infront of the batt. hatches.Like I said,I never used it.This is first full year using this boat with pilothouse,What a difference with tabs to push front down with winds last week at35 Knots at stay dry in cabin with a tee shirt on.
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(http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o173/Fishhead_05/boat-bradysfieldtrip-soccer246-1.jpg)Rick,do you mean a hatch in top of pilothouse?
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Rick,Do you have a plastic cap on top of the transom edge where the main motor mounts?
Yes, I think anyway, the one I have is tan.
I know what you mean about the area behind the fishbox.My plan for it is :lol: to cut out the back of fishbox tab in new glass,fill new bottom and gell the whole mess.That will make that whole area one big fish box.I dont really need more fish storage,remember it was a center console so I have 3 fish boxes in front deck.That would save the walk to the front to store fish.
All right, now I'm getting confused - the boat used to be a CC? a 230 CC? Was it a 222 CCP? Whatever, the back portion looks exactly like the back of my Explorer.
EDIT: I did a search and found your original post here (http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621&highlight=) and that cleared up my confusion. In your post you said Osprey - I can understand them using the same hull, but what amazes me is the way they used half of the liner one way for both and then added a cuddy in mine and a raised platform on yours.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/290boat_-bradys_field_trip-soccer_106.jpg)
Even the bow pulpit is the same.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/290boat_-bradys_field_trip-soccer_261.jpg)
I put a through hull in to pull waterfor washdown and livewell,its in rear bilge.I lost my livewell when the console pulled out so I use a 13 gal. aquaworld,just set it on floor in rear corner and strap it down.
I think my thruhull in rear bilge is stock because of the baitwell - it was factory plumbed- no garden hose.
This boats a 93.The splash board goes across just infront of the batt. hatches.Like I said,I never used it.
I can't see how it would mount though, no track or anything that I can see. You batteries are inside the side hatches on both sides of the motorwell, right? I have my batteries in the Starboard and oilwell in the Port.
This is first full year using this boat with pilothouse,What a difference with tabs to push front down with winds last week at35 Knots at stay dry in cabin with a tee shirt on.
She's a beaut, that's for sure. Never know she wasn't stock.
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Now you got it right,It was a 230 osprey,same hull as yours,just a different inner liner.You can see a clip on star. side off boat screwed to forward edge off batt. hatch, thats whatholds splashboard on,the other side is gone.Keep forgetting to take it off.If I decided to use it Id probably take a piece of alum. channel and just slide it down.I have 1 batt. in each side.Main star, and kicker runs off port.Oil tank is under suzuki hood.You need to pull that plastic top cap off of transom or part of it to see if they finished the top with glass,or just mudded in silicone or whatever and put that piece of cap on.When I got mine it had the later.I hope yours was sealed the right way.Maybe someone might know, did the transom leave Aquasport not finished,or the shop that hung the engine cut that section out and never finished it? I never found out. Hope this helps out.
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I know what you mean about the area behind the fishbox.My plan for it is :lol: to cut out the back of fishbox tab in new glass,fill new bottom and gell the whole mess.That will make that whole area one big fish box.
So, you have the same empty approx 8"x3' "slot" behind your fishbox too? I'll take a pic soon of what I'm talking about.
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I arrived back from Montreal this afternoon and was happy with the progress the canvas guy was making:
My wife is already talking about that bottom paint not matching... :roll: :roll: :roll:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress15.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18620&title=bimini-progress15&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18592&title=bimini-progress2&cat=876)
He did a nice job of transitioning between the helm area and the rear cockpit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18593&title=bimini-progress3&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress4.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18594&title=bimini-progress4&cat=876)
It really emphasizes the space in the back - I washed the leaves out of the boat, took the pix and then it started raining - perfect test and it was NICE!!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress5.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18595&title=bimini-progress5&cat=876)
I bought a Danforth plow anchor on eBay (thanks JJ) and when I got
home I removed the Danforth type anchor I have and had to move the
stainless mount about an inch back and remove the "hoop" and then
attach the new anchor:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/100_0829.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18615&title=100-0829&cat=873)
Hangs a lot better than the other type.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/100_0830.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18616&title=100-0830&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/Plow_Anchor6.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18619&title=plow-anchor6&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/Plow_Anchor4.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18617&title=plow-anchor4&cat=873)
Still have to figure out the safety gear - but it lays a lot better.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/Plow_Anchor5.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18618&title=plow-anchor5&cat=873)
Coming along nicely.
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Nice wheelhouse Fishhead! I can only imagine the planning & time it took to execute.
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Looking good Rick.
You don't get static about having the boat in your driveway? The only codes that apply to me are Manatee County zoning laws and they call for trailers of any type to be in the side yard and not stick out past the front of the house. Of course, it usually depends on a neighbor to make a call before they say anything. :roll:
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I'm not in a deed restricted neighborhood so I have an advantage. Besides, you've see a pic or two of the 170 beside the 230 and you see that it is covered
and not "ugly" - by end of next week, the 230 will have a full cover too. I think that matters to the inspectors - if anyone would call on me.
My house sits on a corner lot - the driveway that they are sitting in is not the main driveway for the house. I have a 2 car garage with a 1 car "workshop" on the back
of that - so that makes the 2-car have one driveway and the "workshop" have it's own. That's where the boats are sitting. You should be able figure it out looking at the pix I've posted.
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I spent the morning working on the boat and wanted to post the pix of the bilge area to confirm with Fishhead about the missing "something":
As I said earlier, you climb down into the bilge
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18623&title=230-bilge1&cat=877)
These are the pumps I've been working on
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18624&title=230-bilge2&cat=877)
These 2 pix show the missing "something" I don't have of the inlay
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18625&title=230-bilge3&cat=877)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge4.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18626&title=230-bilge4&cat=877)
Here is the top hatch installed and the fish locker lid off
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge5.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18627&title=230-bilge5&cat=877)
And this is the fish locker with the lid installed - a finished deck.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/877/230_bilge6.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18628&title=230-bilge6&cat=877)
So FishHead, are you missing the back "whatever" that fits in the empty "slot", behind the fish locker?
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Your canvas guy is doing a great job. The clear connector to the top of the windscreen will be much appreciated when you have rain.
That plow looks more comfy than the Danforth. Will be much more secure when you're underway.
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Yep,Same thing I have .Only difference is the big hatch cover gutter drains into the Small splashwell and out the scuppers.Look close and you can see alittle difference on the corner gutters.Do those gutter drains dump overboard or into bilge?
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Yep,Same thing I have .Only difference is the big hatch cover gutter drains into the Small splashwell and out the scuppers.Look close and you can see alittle difference on the corner gutters.Do those gutter drains dump overboard or into bilge?
The gutter drains right into the bilge.
So, I wonder what was supposed to go in the back empty spot? Seems the way it is angled in the corners, something was made for it. Maybe someday an original owner will appear and tell us.
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Your canvas guy is doing a great job.
For the most part it is coming along nicely. I think there is a problem with the way the back bimini sits right now that I'm going to talk to him about this morning. It's not flat like the front bimini. It should be an easy fix though, like moving the pivot point back an inch might fix it. Otherwise, it's awesome.
The clear connector to the top of the windscreen will be much appreciated when you have rain.
Yes, I also like that it will unzip letting air in. My wife and I are thinking as we get screens made to zip in, in place of the vinyl, that one for the front is definitely on the list.
That plow looks more comfy than the Danforth. Will be much more secure when you're underway.
It's a weird version the plow though. It's very thick, height-wise, at the hinge compared to some I've seen, which made it a little tougher to get it in the cradle.
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Your canvas guy is doing a great job.
For the most part it is coming along nicely. I think there is a problem with the way
the back bimini sits right now that I'm going to talk to him about this morning.
It's not flat like the front bimini. It should be an easy fix though, like moving
the pivot point back an inch might fix it. Otherwise, it's awesome.
While talking to the canvas guy this morning, he said that he designed the
back bimini the way it is for watershedding. He said that since the bimini is
so wide, the top is a little flat and water could pool up there. I guess it will be
ok. Just didn't look right to me.
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Wow Rick that's alot of canvas!Are you planning to do alot of boat camping?It looks like you'll have plenty of room.Nice job by the canvas man.
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Wow Rick that's alot of canvas!Are you planning to do alot of boat camping?It looks like you'll have plenty of room.Nice job by the canvas man.
I wanted this boat to be multi-functional with a big emphasis on being able to get out of the sun and hang out. Camping is in the scheme of things too - how much.... who knows, there's never enough time to do as much as you'd like. Canvas (biminis, all the vinyl panels and 2 screen panels) will be done this week. Boat cover, next week.
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More canvas progress:
A good look at the transition at the rear
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/Bimini_Progress06.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18591&title=bimini-progress06&cat=876)
Steve didn't quite finish enclosing her today
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0842.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18574&title=100-0842&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0841.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18573&title=100-0841&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0843.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18575&title=100-0843&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0844.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18576&title=100-0844&cat=876)
Huge area on "the inside". The 2/3 - 1/3 will make it easy to come in and out while camping.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0846.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18578&title=100-0846&cat=876)
We decided to stop at where the storage lockers are - an obvious place. Anyway, Steve put in tracks to secure the back panels.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0847.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18579&title=100-0847&cat=876)
Easy to see the transition that was made from the helm to the cockpit - he did a nice job
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/100_0848.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18580&title=100-0848&cat=876)
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That's going to be as good as sleeping at the Motel 6. :lol:
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That's going to be as good as sleeping at the Motel 6. :lol:
I think so too, maybe better. The starboard aft 2 sections and the port transition panel will be replicated in screen - the 2 st. aft will be replicated but with one screen. Should provide good cross flow of air.
Friday, he'll be done with vinyl and screen. Next week, cover and duffels for panel storage. Steve is doing a great job.
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Getting the bottom paint off without harming the gelcoat would probably be best done with Peel-Away.
I'm having a heck of a time finding a local source for this stuff. I've found it on-line for $60/gal plus shipping but nothing local so far. I sent an email to the mfr, we'll see what they come back with, if anything.
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Peel-Away is expensive stuff. Sometimes Home Depot carries it.
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Peel-Away is expensive stuff. Sometimes Home Depot carries it.
Here is the response I got from them:
"Rick
West Marine is going to stock our product in January under their own name, but for now you can get our PEEL AWAY 7 product at Sherwin Williams Paint Stores (same as the Marine Safety Strip). Also it is available online at www.paintremoval.com (http://www.paintremoval.com)
Thanks"
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This morning I installed the Icom 302 VHF in the cabin and the new 5ft all-around light on the stern. I then installed the anchor lock I found yesterday. Based on the length of the anchor shank and how I could through-bolt it through the pulpit, I had to modify the lock a little.
I decided to lock it through the shackle hole, so I had to cut and grind a notch in the front of it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/100_0849.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18605&title=100-0849&cat=873)
The lock is a pin that has a spring on one end and a roller pin sticking through it on the other.
Sorry for the bluriness, the wind was blowing me around.
EDIT: I replaced the blurry pic.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/brightened_crop_of_anchor_lock.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18609&title=brightened-crop-of-anchor-lock&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/100_0855.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18607&title=100-0855&cat=873)
The way the anchor lays on the pulpit roller, on the hinge of the anchor, means there is little forward weight/pulling. The lock actually holds the shank "down" and that locks the whole thing in place. Should work out fine. (I hope)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/100_0863.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18610&title=100-0863&cat=873)
Steve finished the biminis, screens and vinyl and then booted them up. Next week is the cover.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/All_booted_up.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18611&title=all-booted-up&cat=876)
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Lock looks good. Minor mods. are always part of the game. One thing you may want to do is mouse the shackle pin with some stainless wire. Pins can come loose through the turning action of the shackle on the hook
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Lock looks good. Minor mods. are always part of the game. One thing you may want to do is mouse the shackle pin with some stainless wire. Pins can come loose through the turning action of the shackle on the hook
This is under spring tension - you push the pin through the hole and turn 180 degrees, then let go. Shackle, chain and rode are loose, no tension at all.
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Clarification: The threaded pin that secures the shackle to the anchor:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/4554945.jpg)
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Ohhhh, THAT pin :oops: - yup, need to do that. If I have some in the shop, I'll do it tomorrow. Thanks buddy.
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Today I changed the lower unit oil, and had a weird experience. I bought the oil change kit a while back at a Yamaha dealer and I'd told them the size and they told me the qt kit would be fine. The kit was a Johnson/Evinrude kit and they told me it would be fine (parts people). I drained the oil and then tried to screw the end of the pump into the bottom hole and it wouldn't fit :?: - I called a closer service center and he told me I needed a metric adapter. Ok, I go down there and buy the adapter, I tell the guy the size of the motor and he gave me the "quick instruction set" to make sure I knew how to change the oil. He mentioned in the "instructions" to pump in the Qt of oil. While I'm there I buy a screw-on fuel water separator/filter too.
I get back home, put the adapter on the pump and start filling her up. The oil smelled well used, not that I'd call it burned, but it was ready to change, for sure. Very dark but no metal that I could see :D .
Well, I ran out of oil and she wasn't full yet :x .
Ok, I'll change the fuel separator before I head back to get more oil. I try to unscrew the filter and end up ripping the separator off the wall :shock: . I cut the fuel lines off, put the separator in a vise and was able to unscrew the filter. I poured the contents of the filter into a bucket to check it out and there was a little rust and just a little water - not too bad. The inside top of the separator was rusty, so I figure it had water at one time or just over time. I decide to replace the whole thing and off I go back to the service center. When I get there I tell the guy about running out of oil, at one Qt and he said "of course, you have the big motor" :roll:
Anyway, I changed those two items and that's one more than I had on my list, OFF my list.
Jim, I didn't get a chance to look for wire yet but if it was your pin, how would you "mouse" the pin. Wrap it around the inside of the shackle?
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From Wikipedia:
Mousing
For safety, it is common to mouse a threaded shackle that is going to be left done up for some time in anything like a critical application. This is done by passing a couple of turns of mousing wire through the hole provided for this purpose in the unthreaded end of the pin and around the body of the shackle's hoop.
Alternatively, some threaded shackles are provided with a hole through the threaded end of the pin beyond where it emerges from the threaded hole. A cotter pin or a couple of loops of mousing wire through this hole serves the same purpose and secures the shackle in a closed position.
Simple proceedure but a good one for critical hardware that must not fail.
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I have been through the lower unit fitting crap. I could not find one to fit the 60 Yammie. I made one by cutting off a 5/16" (I think) all-thread then drilling the center of it out and slipping that inside the pump tubing.
Pull your prop and check for fishing line and grease the propshaft well with water proof grease.
I paint the top of the spin on fuel filters with grease. You will find that the damn cannister rusts out before the filter gets clogged. Aluminum housing and steel filter cannister mixed with saltwater equal crap. Racor makes a stainless housing but I cannot afford it.
A piece of stainless wire or a tiny zip tie works fine on the anchor clevis.
On your anchor lock, put a leash on that pin or someday it will roll overboard. I have some 120# plastic coated stranded wire leader and some crimps if you need it. That's what I used on mine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/Johnny_B/Catch%2022/anchor_005.jpg)
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Thanks Jim
I have been through the lower unit fitting crap. I could not find one to fit the 60 Yammie. I made one by cutting off a 5/16" (I think) all-thread then drilling the center of it out and slipping that inside the pump tubing.
That sounds like it was a real pain.
Pull your prop and check for fishing line and grease the propshaft well with water proof grease.
I'll try to do that today along with the mousing.
I paint the top of the spin on fuel filters with grease. You will find that the damn cannister rusts out before the filter gets clogged. Aluminum housing and steel filter cannister mixed with saltwater equal crap. Racor makes a stainless housing but I cannot afford it.
I forgot to mention that the one I bought is stainless - about $30 more than the aluminum one. Not too bad. I wiped a liberal coat of grease on the rubber seal and did the "hand tight plus a 1/4 turn" tightening on it. I think the other hadn't been off in a few years. Won't have the same problem again. The guy told me that they should be replaced yearly - he did say that if all you get out of it is water on your yearly check, use it some more. I also bought 2 extra filters for stash. When I was installing the Lowrance LMF-200 fuel sensor/sending unit, they recommend carrying an extra 3/8" coupler and and extra filter, so I'm covered in case I need to remove this for any problem.
That reminds me, Miquel, did you get your sensor installed yet? Does it work ok? I haven't had the boat out yet and don't get any reading on the hose. Maybe I haven't identified the sensor as a "device" yet on the network?
On your anchor lock, put a leash on that pin or someday it will roll overboard. I have some 120# plastic coated stranded wire leader and some crimps if you need it. That's what I used on mine.
The lock pin doesn't come all the way out. The roll pin can't come out the round hole on the other side.
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Peel-Away is expensive stuff. Sometimes Home Depot carries it.
Here is the response I got from them:
"Rick
West Marine is going to stock our product in January under their own name, but for now you can get our PEEL AWAY 7 product at Sherwin Williams Paint Stores (same as the Marine Safety Strip). Also it is available online at www.paintremoval.com (http://www.paintremoval.com)
Thanks"
I went down to the Sherwin-Williams yesterday on the same outing that I got the oil and filter. Took the guy a few minutes to find it and then I saw why - marked $86/gal :shock: :shock: :shock: It had a few years worth of dust on the top too and at that price, it wasn't going to move fast. He discounted it 15% to me but still was $73 with tax. He also had one gal that the plastic "lock" around the rim had been torn off - maybe I can get that real cheap if this works ok. Being that the paint on my boat is only one coat and "that" has been worn down, maybe I can use just a little and the gal will go far. I'll let you know.
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Ok, I pulled the prop, no fishing line, just a bunch of hardened grease. Took a wire brush to it where it needed it to clean all the old stuff off, greased her back up and re-assembled it. Check.
Had 4 lengths of bailing wire collected over the years, but no stainless. I did the zip tie approach until I can get some wire. I'm sure the ties will degrade from the sun over time.
Here is a new "clear" pic of the anchor lock - replaced the one in the earlier post too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/crop_of_anchor_lock.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18612&title=crop-of-anchor-lock&cat=873)
Brightened it a little:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/brightened_crop_of_anchor_lock.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18609&title=brightened-crop-of-anchor-lock&cat=873)
Here is the mousing - so why do you think they call it "mousing"? (Not a quiz, just don't know)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/moused_Anchor_Lock3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18613&title=moused-anchor-lock3&cat=873)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/873/moused_Anchor_Lock4.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18614&title=moused-anchor-lock4&cat=873)
Check.
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I started my Peel Away project Friday afternoon. I was going to post about it but the forum was broken. It's been on for about 36 hours now. I will start taking it off today if the rain doesn't get too bad. Yesterday after 24 hours I pulled a small piece of the paper away. Most of the paint and stripper was still on the hull, not the paper. The paint was soft all the way to the gelcoat but will still be a PITA to get off. Maybe I can make the full post tonight.
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Glad to hear the paper was in the lid (or was it?)
The video at their site shows using a putty knife and it "falls off" and then blasting the residue off with a pressure washer. Sounds easy enough (but never is) :? Hopefully they didn't sand the hull down first.
Take plenty of pix - maybe you can enlist a "model" to take the paint off while you take pix :lol:
Hey, at least you'll be done and probably get an extra 3 mph out of her too. :D
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The nautical term "stay mouse" refers to an antiquated part of a sailing vessel's standing rigging. On all sailing ships built before about the 19th century, the stays were of natural cords. These lines were looped around the top of each section of the wooden masts using a spliced loop or seized loop in their ends. During the 16th century some riggers began to attach stays by splicing or seizing only a small loop into the end of the stay then passing the rope's tail around the mast and back through the small loop, like a slip-knot. To prevent this from slipping tightly around the mast when in use, a strong bulge was built into the standing part of the rope that could not fit through the small loop. This bulge was called a mouse or stay mouse.
See mousing, below, and the rest of the terms as well (excerpts from The Coast Guardsman's Manual):
SECTION 8 - GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS
Abaft: behind or farther aft; astern or toward the stern.
Abeam: at right angles to the centerline of and outside a ship.
Accommodation ladder: a portable flight of steps down a ship's side.
Adrift: loose from moorings, or out of place.
All hands: entire ship's company, both officers and enlisted personnel.
Amidships (or midships): in middle portion of ship, along the line of the keel.
Anchor detail: group of ship's personnel who handle ground tackle when the ship is anchoring or getting under way.
Athwart, athwartships: at right angles to the fore and aft or centerline of a ship.
Avast: a command to cease or desist from whatever is being done.
Bail: to dip water out of a boat with a bucket. A hoop or ring; a half hoop or yoke.
Battle lantern: a battery-powered lantern used for emergency lighting.
Bear a hand: speed up the action; lend a helping hand.
Belay: to cancel an order; to stop; to firmly secure a line.
Bend on: to secure one thing to another, as bend a flag onto a halyard.
Bight: middle part of a line as distinguished from the end and the standing part; a single complete turn of line; bend in a river or coastline.
Billet: a crew member's assigned duties within the ship's organization.
Bitt: strong iron post on ship's deck for working or fastening lines; almost invariably in pairs.
Bitter end: the utmost end of a line.
Boat fall: rigging used to hoist or lower ship's boats.
Boat gripe: lashing used at sea to secure a boat hanging from the davits against the strongback and away from the ship's side.
Boat painter: rope attached to the stern ringbolt of a boat; used for securing it. Also a short piece of rope secured to the bow of a boat; used for towing or making fast. Not to be confused with the sea painter, which is a much longer rope.
Boatswain: warrant officer in charge of deck work. Pronounced "bosun".
Boatswain's pipe: small, shrill silver whistle used by boatswain's mate to pass a call or pipe the side.
Bollard: wooden or iron post on a pier or wharf to which mooring lines are secured.
Bow: forward section of a vessel.
Break out: to unstow or prepare for use.
Bridge: raised platform from which ship is steered, navigated, and conned; usually located in forward part of the ship.
Bridle: span of rope or chain with both ends secured.
Broad on the starboard or port beam: bearing 090 degrees or 270 degrees relative to the bow of the ship.
Broad on the starboard or port quarter: bearing 135 degrees or 225 degrees relative to the bow of the ship.
Brow: large gangplank leading from a ship to a pier, wharf, or float; usually equipped with rollers on the bottom and hand rails on the side.
Bulkhead: one of the vertical wall-like structures enclosing a compartment.
Bull nose: a closed chock at the head of the bow on the forecastle deck.
Bulwark: raised plating or woodwork running along the side of a vessel above the weather deck. Helps keep decks dry and prevents crew and gear from being swept overboard.
Camel: large fender float used for keeping vessel off wharf, pier, or quay; usually of one or more logs.
Cargo whip: rope or chain used with a boom for handling cargo. One end has a heavy hook; the other end is rove through a block and taken to the winch. Also, called cargo hoist or cargo rope.
Carry away: to break loose, tear loose, or wash overboard.
Cast off: to throw off; to let go; to unfurl.
Chains: platform or a general area on either side of forward part of a ship where leadsman stands as he or she takes soundings.
Check: to slack off slowly; to stop a vessel's way gradually by a line fastened to some fixed object or to an anchor on the bottom; to ease off a rope a little, especially with a view to reducing the tension; to stop or regulate the motion, as a cable when it is running too fast.
Chock: steel deck member, either oval or U-shaped, through which mooring lines are passed. Usually paired off with bitts.
Clamp down: going over a deck with damp swabs; a lesser form of swabbing down.
Cleat: (1) a small, metal deck fitting with horns; used for securing lines; also called belaying cleat. (2) Short piece of wood nailed to brow of gangplank to give surer footing.
Close abroad: nearby.
Colors: national ensign; distinguishing flag flown by a vessel to indicate her nationality. Also, the ceremonies performed at a naval activity when colors are hoisted at eight o'clock and hauled down at sunset.
Companionway: set of steps or ladders leading from one deck level to another.
Conn: to direct helmsman as to movement of helm, especially when navigating in narrow channels or heavy traffic. (For example, to conn the vessel.)
Coxswain: enlisted man in charge of a boat; acts as helmsman. Pronounced "koksun."
Cradle: a stowage rest for ship's boat.
Davit: shipboard crane that can be swung out over the side; used for hoisting and lowering boats and weights. Often found in pairs.
Dead reckoning: navigator's estimate of ship's position from the course steered and the distance run.
Deck: on a ship corresponds to the floor of a building on land.
Deep: the distance in fathoms between two successive marks on a lead line, as "By the deep, four."
Deep six: slang meaning to dispose of by throwing over the side. Also, when referring to lead line use, a depth of six fathoms of water.
Dip: lowering a flag part way in salute or in answer, and hoisting it again. A flag is "at the dip" when it is flown at about two-thirds the height of the halyards.
Dog: metal fitting used to secure watertight doors, hatch covers, scuttles, etc.
Dogwatch: one of the two-hour watches between 1600 to 2000.
Dolphin: cluster of piles for mooring.
Double up: to increase the number of ship-to-pier turns of a mooring line.
Duty day: a period of duty wherein one section of the ship's in-port watch organization remains onboard for a 24-hour period in order to ensure safety aboard, to operate the ship as may be required, and to maintain it in readiness. The section "having the duty" is called the duty section. One or more watches of varying types may be stood by members of the duty section during the duty day; ship's work may also be assigned to duty section members when off-watch. Most Coast Guard ships operate a four-section duty organization, wherein each section has the duty every four days. A duty organization is also employed aboard most shore units of the Coast Guard.
Ease off: to ease a line; slacken it when taut.
Easy: carefully, gently.
Fairlead: an eye, block, or fitting furnishing a clear lead for a line.
Fairway: in inland waters, an open channel or midchannel.
Fake down: coiling down a line so that each fake of rope overlaps the one underneath and makes the line clear for running.
Fancy work: intricate, symmetrical rope work used for decorative purposes.
Fantail: main deck section in the after part of a flush-deck ship.
Fast: snugly secured; said of a line when it is fastened securely.
Forecastle: upper deck in forward part of the ship. Pronounced "foke'-sul"; abbreviated fo'csle.
Frap: to bind lightly by passing lines around; to draw together the parts of tackle or other combinations of ropes to increase tension.
Galley: the ship's kitchen.
Gangway: opening in the bulwarks of the rail of the ship to give entrance at the head of the gangplank or brow; an order to stand aside and get out of the way.
General quarters: battle stations for all hands.
Gripes: metal fastenings for securing a boat in its cradle; canvas bands fitted with thimbles in their ends and passed from the davit heads over and under the boat for securing for sea.
Handsomely: to ease a line gradually; to execute something deliberately and carefully, but not necessarily slowly.
Head: compartment of a ship having toilet facilities.
Heave 'round: to revolve the drum of a winch or windlass so as to pull in a line or anchor cable.
Heave to: to bring the ship's head into the wind or sea and hold her there by the use of engines and rudder.
Holiday: an imperfection or vacant space in an orderly arrangement; spots in painted work left unfinished.
Hull down: said of a distant vessel when only her stack-tops and mast are visible above the horizon.
Jack: flag similar to the union of the national ensign; flown at the jackstaff when in port; plug for connecting an electrical appliance to a power or phone line.
Jacob's ladder: light ladder made of rope or chain with metal or wooden rungs; used over the side and aloft.
Jury rig: makeshift rig of mast and sail or of other gear, as jury anchor, jury rudder; any makeshift device.
Knife edge: smooth, polished edge of the coaming against which the rubber gaskets of watertight doors and scuttles press when closed; furnishes better watertight integrity.
Knock off: to cease what is being done; to stop work.
Ladder: in a ship, corresponds to stairs in a building.
Lee: direction away from the wind.
Liberty: any authorized absence granted for short periods to provide respite from the work environment or for other specific reasons. Liberty is not chargeable to the member.
Locker: small metal or wooden stowage space; either a chest or closet.
Lucky bag: locker for stowage of personal gear found adrift.
Mark: fathoms in a lead line that are marked.
Marry: placing two lines together, as in hoisting a boat; to sew together temporarily the ends of two lines for rendering through the block.
Mess: to eat; group of crew members eating together; the compartment or location for the dining of a select group aboard ship, such as the CPO mess.
Messenger: light line used for hauling over a heavier rope or cable; for example, the messenger is sent over from the ship to the pier by the heaving line and then used to pull the heavy mooring lines across. Also, an enlisted crew member who runs errands for the OOD.
Monkey fist: a knot, with or without a weight enclosed, worked in the end of a heaving line to form a heavy ball to facilitate throwing the line.
Mousing: small stuff seized across a hook to prevent unhooking.
Oscar: Traditionally, the name given to the dummy employed for ship's "Man overboard" drills; the flag hoisted by a ship to indicate a man/woman overboard.
Overhead: on a ship, equivalent to the ceiling of a building ashore; ships have overheads rather than ceilings.
Pad eye: metal eye permanently secured to deck or bulkhead.
Painter: a line in the bow of a boat for towing or making fast.
Pass the word: to repeat an order or information to all hands.
Pelican hook: hinged hook held in place by a ring; when the ring is knocked off, the hook swings open.
Pelorus: navigational instrument used in taking bearings; consists of two sight vanes mounted on a hoop revolving about a dumb compass or a gyro repeater.
Pollywog: person who has never crossed the line (equator).
Port: left side of the ship facing forward; a harbor; an opening in the ship's side. The usual opening in the ship's side for light and air is also a port. The glass set in a brass frame that fits against it is called a port light.
Quarter: that part of ship's side near the stern.
Quarterdeck: that part of the main (or other) deck reserved for honors and ceremonies and as the station of the OOD in port.
Quarters: living space; assembly of the crew; all hands assembled at established stations for muster, drills, or inspections.
Rack: a sailor's bed.
Rate: grade of official standing of enlisted personnel. A rate identifies an enlisted member by pay grade or level of advancement with a rating; a rate reflects level of aptitude, training, experience, knowledge, skill, and responsibility.
Rating: name given to an enlisted occupational specialty that requires basically related aptitudes, training, experience, knowledge, and skills.
Reeve: to pass the end of a rope through any lead, such as a sheave or fairlead.
Relative bearing: bearing or direction of an object in degrees in relation to the bow of the ship. The bow of the ship is taken as 000 degrees and an imaginary circle is drawn clockwise around the ship; objects are then reported as being along a line of bearing through any degree division of this circle.
Relieving (the watch, the duty, etc.): to take over the duty responsibilities, as when one sentry relieves another. Those who relieve are reliefs.
Scupper: opening in the side of a ship to carry off water.
Scuttle: small opening through hatch, deck, or bulkhead to provide access; similar hole in side or bottom of ship; cover for such an opening; to sink a ship intentionally by boring holes in the bottom or by opening seacocks.
Scuttlebutt: drinking fountain. Also, a rumor, usually of local importance.
Sea lawyer: enlisted member who likes to argue; usually one who thinks the regulations and standing orders can be twisted to favor his or her personal inclinations.
Secure: to make fast; to tie; an order given on completion of a drill, exercise or evolution, meaning to withdraw from the corresponding stations and duties.
Secure for sea: extra prescribed lashings on all movable objects.
Shaft alley: spaces within a ship surrounding the propeller shaft.
Shellback: person who has crossed the equator and been initiated.
Shipshape: neat, orderly.
Shore up: to prop up.
Shot: short length of chain, usually 15 fathoms.
Side boys: non-rated personnel manning the side when visiting senior officers or distinguished visitors come aboard.
Single up: to reduce the number of mooring lines out to a pier preparatory to sailing; that is, to leave only one easily cast off line in each place where mooring lines were doubled up for greater security.
Sound: to measure depth of water by means of a lead line. Also, to measure depth of liquids in oil tanks, voids, blisters, and other compartments or tanks.
Spanner: a tool for coupling hoses.
Spring: mooring line leading at an angle of about 45 degrees off centerline of vessel; to turn a vessel with a line.
Square away: to get things settled down or in order.
Starboard: right side of a ship looking forward.
Steady: order to helmsman to hold ship on course.
Steerageway: slowest speed at which a ship can be steered.
Stem: upright post or bar at most forward part of the bow of a ship or boat. It may be a casting, forging, welding, or made of wood.
Stern: after part of a ship.
Stopper: short length of rope or chain firmly secured at one end; used in securing or checking a running line.
Stow: to put gear in its proper place.
Striker: enlisted member in training for a particular rating.
Swab: a rope or yarn mop.
Tackle: arrangement of ropes and blocks to give mechanical advantage; a purchase, that is, a rig of lines and pulleys to increase available hauling force. Pronounced "take-el".
Taffrail: a rail at the stern of a ship.
Take a turn: to pass a turn around a cleat, bitts, or bollard with a line and hold on.
Taps: lights out for the night.
Toggle: wooden or metal pin slipped into a becket; furnishes a rapid release.
Topping lift: line used for topping a boom and taking its weight.
Topside: above decks.
Trice up: to hitch up or hook up, such as trice up a rack.
Turn to: an order to begin work.
Two-blocked: when two blocks of a tackle have been drawn as closely together as possible.
Veer: to let anchor cable, line, or chain run out by its own weight. Also, when the wind changes direction clockwise or to the right, it is said to veer.
Very well: reply of a senior (or officer) to a junior (or enlisted person) to indicate that information given is understood, or that permission is granted.
Void: empty compartment below decks.
Wardroom: officer's mess and lounge abroad a ship.
Watchcap: knitted wool cap worn in cool or cold weather; canvas cover placed over a stack when not in use.
Watertight integrity: system of keeping ship afloat by maintaining watertightness.
Weather deck: portion of main, forecastle, poop, and upper deck exposed to weather.
Whipping: keeping the ends of a rope from unlaying, by wrapping with turns of twine and tucking the ends.
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Thanks for the info - another thing for the "Resource" section. This way we can all talk like we're really "nautical types" :wink:
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Yeah, I believe their advertising like I believe the male enhancement commercials on TV.
The paper is folded up in the top with a heavy membrane between it and the stripper.
I made some before and during pics so far. I'll try to edit this post and add them after while.
I can tell you this, it's still a bitch. :cry:
I started a thread here:
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... php?t=1594 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1594)
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I took the 230 out today for the 2nd time with my wife, and besides being crazy at the ramp (lots of people had the day off too), was a nice few hours out.
I realized today that I might have a problem with the carbs or something with the fuel system in general. Many posts ago, in this thread, I posted about flooding the engine on the first outing - well today I realized that it isn't me. After running it for a while and then shutting it down - after about 5-10 minutes, it is flooded, by itself. If I start it up within a few minutes, it's ok. If I let it sit a long while,it will start normally ( I remember drifting for an hour or so and it started right away). It's after a few minutes (5-10) that it starts to act up and then I have to do the "floor-it" start and then it starts. Weird but reproducible - so I gotta take it in.
I started to check in the factory service manual I bought for this motor and when I opened it the 2nd page showed a 4 wheeler - and the manual was for the 4 wheeler not the outboard :shock: . Just the outer cover was for the outboard. I emailed them and they are sending the correct "whole" manual to me. :roll:
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sticky float in one of the carbs.
That sucks on the manual.
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I've been on vacation since the 21st and it's time to head back to work <!-- s:cry: -->:cry:<!-- s:cry: -->
Steve stopped by last Wednesday with this "wad" of Sunbrella. I helped him drape it over the boat and then sat back in a chair on the front lawn to watch him create his masterpeice.
First he got it in place and then climbed under it and stuck 4 poles through pre-reinforced and ringed holes. The poles are for water shed and from what I've seen today, it works great. From there, he tugged and stapled and marked and cut and....
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/art_of_bldg_a_boat_cover1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18581&title=art-of-bldg-a-boat-cover1&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/art_of_bldg_a_boat_cover2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18582&title=art-of-bldg-a-boat-cover2&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/art_of_bldg_a_boat_cover3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18582&title=art-of-bldg-a-boat-cover3&cat=876)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/art_of_bldg_a_boat_cover5.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18582&title=art-of-bldg-a-boat-cover5&cat=876)
Then he took it all away and came back Friday and this is what the end result looks like.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/876/art_of_bldg_a_boat_cover6.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18582&title=art-of-bldg-a-boat-cover6&cat=876)
This cover is incredible. The corners are tailored and padded, they don't just lay on the corners, you have to pull them into place. Everywhere that the cover touches something on the boat it is reinforced. The pulpit is custom and padded too. To finish it off, there is a 1/4" nylon rope in the hem and stretch ties all around. Now I know why he wanted double what I could find a pre-fabbed one for. The guy is an artist to say the least.
He is bringing "duffels" to hold the vinyl and screens next week and in a few months we'll have him make a few more screens.
Overall, a very nice product and I would recommend him to anyone.
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I started talking about this in JJs thread and it's time to bring it here where it belongs - I mentioned earlier they had said that in warmer climates you might not need the paper with the Peel away. Well, you might not get the paint off either.
1) I don't think I put it on thick enough - this was the first attempt
2) the spot you see that is missing paint is from me scraping with the putty knife.
Before:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18561&title=peel-away1&cat=875)
After:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18567&title=peel-away3&cat=875)
Nada!!
To continue:
I put it on real thick the second time, used the paper and left it on for 48 hours and the only thing that I could "peel away" was the paper :roll: :roll: :roll:
The paint was soft, just wasn't going to come off as easy as they show in the video. I spent about an hour scraping on the back and got it almost down to the gelcoat. This ain't gonna be easy.
The gallon doesn't supply much paper with it and they say that it is enough to cover what the gallon will "cover" - first indication that I don't have it on thick enough still. Don't know how you would put it on any thicker and have it stay on the boat until it is covered. I had it on thick enough to see finger lines in it through the paper. I'm guessing 1/16-1/8" thick?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_08.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18559&title=peel-away-08&cat=875)
I started in the back and then worked up the sides - the starboard side I went until I ran out of paper. The port side I went to the front but not all the way down to the keel. This pic shows the paper coverage and also where I started to remove some of the stuff after 48 hours. I removed the stripe on the port rear too, since the bottom paint was almost covering it anyway.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_09.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18560&title=peel-away-09&cat=875)
These are after I scraped all the paint off the port side, rear and from the stern of the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_07.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18558&title=peel-away-07&cat=875)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_06.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18557&title=peel-away-06&cat=875)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_05.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18556&title=peel-away-05&cat=875)
I know that it looks like the paint is still there but it isn't, just a thin residue. Maybe I have to recoat it?
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If you're repainting, what you have should be fine. Progress looks good, canvas cover looks great!
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If you're repainting, what you have should be fine. Progress looks good, canvas cover looks great!
I was hoping that I would be able to go with no paint, just gelcoat again. Don't know if this is going to be an option or not now that I see the results. After this rain ends and I can get at it with a p-washer (probably this weekend), I'll decide if it is worth persuing or getting it done by someone else. One thing for sure, the stuff will have plenty of time to work. By the time I get home at night there isn't much light left.
I don't want to burn a lot of time on it if I'm going to have to have someone else do it after-all, anyway.
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The canvas guy sounds like a real pro.
I HATE BOTTOM PAINT!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Going to "bare bottom" after having paint likely will require compounding. Paint pigments leach into gelcoat to some degree. Compounding will remove the pigment but you have to be on your toes not to burn through to the glass. Try a test spot by hand with a dab of compound on a rag. If you can remove all traces of blue without taking off much gelcoat you should be in good shape.
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How's the bottom coming along? Just a thought but after you use the Peel-Away maybe a romp on the water with her will help rinse off the stripper and any loose residue. Also an opportunity to run with the new canvas.
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I got a chance to work some more Wednesday eve for an hour or so and got about 6'x2' more scraped - Either I didn't put it on thick enough or this stuff doesn't work too good. Some places I can force a thin putty knife under the paint and peel it off (with a lot of force) and some places it is like chisel quality, even though it seems that the goop is still damp on it. I'm going to scrape/peel the rest of what I put on last weekend off tomorrow (4'x2' and 10"x8') and then try to p-wash the "blue" off.
I'm looking for a better way though - this is rough - and I don't know how to get it on any thicker. I searched the yellow pages for soda blasting to no avail (I found a complete setup for sale on-line :roll: ) - not really too sure what to search on, besides marinas. I found a marina with 6500lbs p-washing :shock:. I found a lot of "sandblasters" but none said anything about marine. Jim, how'd you find your guy?
JJ, I haven't ordered more paper or stuff yet. Waiting on what it looks like tomorrow - if I survive, since most of it is drying out.
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Told you it was no magic bullet. Somewhere on this forum, just after I signed on, someone posted info about a Capt. somebody in St Pete that did soda blasting. I'll let you search. :wink: I thought I saved it but I haven't found it yet. I'll look some more on my HDD.
No problem on the paper order. I'm in no rush. It might be another year before I crawl under the boat again... :?
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I relented and searched. I thought it was posted by Capt. Jim.
The guy's name is Capt. Mike Linder and his number is 813-376.0610 he is a great guy and works hard. I hope this will help.
Thanks
Capt. Jim Lemke
813-917-4989
www.lighttackleadventures.com (http://www.lighttackleadventures.com)
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... light=soda (http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=591&highlight=soda)
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Rick, if you do line up a soda-blaster have him do a small area to test his set-up. Blasting job quality can vary widely. I had good luck with the blaster I found but there are some bad-news stories out there too. If he has his shop nearby, you may want to haul the boat over to him... saves having your driveway covered with bottom paint dust.
To answer your question, I found my blaster in the yellow pages. I have to believe with all the boating activity down your way there should be several blasters around. Check local boatyards, they should know the good ones.
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I relented and searched. I thought it was posted by Capt. Jim.
The guy's name is Capt. Mike Linder and his number is 813-376.0610 he is a great guy and works hard. I hope this will help.
Thanks
Capt. Jim Lemke
813-917-4989
www.lighttackleadventures.com (http://www.lighttackleadventures.com)
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... light=soda (http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=591&highlight=soda)
You're DA MAN 8) - thanks.
One reason I'm thinking about getting it done is because I have no clue how to get the bottom clean that is between the fenders and the motor - no room to crawl under there with the tandem axles, so I'm spinning my wheels.
I'd forgotten about this thread - and where has Capt Jim been - not one peep out of him since the get-together :?: - just been a busy year I guess. It's getting about time to start this years get-together planning - our goal....5 boats :lol:
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Another soda blaster
http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=573803 (http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=573803)
:lol:
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JJ - those boats in the signature kinda look familiar, don't they <!-- s:lol: -->:lol:<!-- s:lol: -->
I spent 6+ hours scraping/p-washing yesterday and got everything I had applied peelaway to, off. I found if you use a stiff putty knife and put just enough bow in it, you can catch an edge and the paint will "crumble" off - still a B%$&#.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_10.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18562&title=peel-away-10&cat=875)
I did find this under the paint, port rear corner - maybe a thru-hull that has been removed? The patch is loose in there and I will have to fix that.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_11.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18563&title=peel-away-11&cat=875)
I took my 2400psi p-washer to the boat after I scraped and JimCT you had a good idea. That little p-washer was washing the paint off little by little - so maybe I can get someone with a 6000+ psi p-washer to blow this off instead of soda blasting. I blew a little chunk of gelcoat off too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_12.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18564&title=peel-away-12&cat=875)
Good before and after. This is where I ran out of paper (and ambition).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/875/peel_away_13.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18565&title=peel-away-13&cat=875)
As JJ pointed out in the previous post, I asked for help on the FS Forum and got a name of a local guy to blast this paint off.
JJ, I'll let you know costs and results so in case you want to splurge....
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Big difference between the green waterline and the blue one.
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The paint leached into the gelcoat and my p-washer doesn't touch it, so I hope that soda blasting will take that last little bit of the paint off without hurting the gelcoat - pay no attention to the gouges I put in there from scraping :oops:
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Have you tried using a random orbit sander and some 220 grit?Maybe start with 220 and go finer,then buff out with compound,You could try it on a small area to test,just a suggestion,good luck with what ever you do. :D
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What Pete said. I have the same stain. I used 120 in a small spot and it took the stain right off. If you can get away with 220 then that is what I would use.
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I haven't tried anything yet - trying to get the feeling back in my hand :roll:
Going to call the blaster guy this morning and find out what that will cost. If I tell him to go ahead and he ends up with the same stain, then it's on to plan B - what you guys are suggesting - or maybe see what he'd charge to finish it up. The problem for me is working on it while it's on the trailer and I have no place to put the trailer if I put the boat on blocks.
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Be VERY carefull with a high pressure washer. When I first got my boat I borrowed a friends 4000 psi washer. The first place I hit with it took of the gelcoat right down to the raw glass. I changed to a gentler tip and washed the boat. It did nothing to the paint except for small places that were already turning loose.
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I called the blaster guy today and he does sand blasting - had never heard of soda blasting. He said he uses a very fine sand that is less abrasive and he blasts down to where the green is still there. Says you have to use a DA to get the green out, but he did say that the hull would be dull - not shiny. (Assuming that the person that painted it had roughed it up prior to painting)
I mentioned the high pressure p-washer approach and that I was told that the paint was the ablative type and he said he had a 5000 lb one and he said he did whatever was the quickest (cheaper for me?) - he said that he could "wear" it down or just sand blast it off. 2 days work.
What do you think - looks like I'll have to sand anyway. Maybe I'll try my random orbital with some 220 and 400 this weekend on the spots I've scraped off.
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Reason the surface will be dull after he blasts it is because the sharp sand he'll use will cut into the gelcoat. Theory of soda is it's harder than paint but softer than gelcoat. Even gentler blasting medium is ground walnut shells but if you can't find a soda-blaster you surely won't find a walnut shell blaster. Far as I know, the paint color on the bottom can only be removed by removing gelcoat. His estimate of two days seems excessive by about a day and a half. Mine took an hour.
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He will have to take Rick's off the trailer and block it up but it still seems like a lot of time.
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He said that he has an "A" frame setup that he puts the boat on and then goes at it. I thought the amount of time he's projecting is a lot too but will have more details Monday when take it to him - if it's too much, I'll drive away. Maybe he's just gonna take it slow because he knows I want to go back to bare gelcoat?
I thought you guys were saying that a light sanding would take the leach out of the gelcoat? After sanding, will I still have a green tint to the gelcoat? A good random-orbital will make quick work of the bottom (at least compared to hand sanding), but if it'll never come out, that's a different story.
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Sanding is no different than blasting,you are using an abrasive media either way.Try the least abrasive method first and go more abrasive as needed.Maybe consider trying to remve the paint in the visable areas and let the paint on the bottom wear off over time,maybe bring some wet/dry sandpaper with you when you go out this summer,pull up on a sand bar and sand it under water.Either way if you want shiny gellcoat it will have to be compounded out,good luck :D
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Sanding is no different than blasting,you are using an abrasive media either way.Try the least abrasive method first and go more abrasive as needed.Maybe consider trying to remve the paint in the visable areas and let the paint on the bottom wear off over time,maybe bring some wet/dry sandpaper with you when you go out this summer,pull up on a sand bar and sand it under water.Either way if you want shiny gellcoat it will have to be compounded out,good luck :D
Thanks Pete, if I beach the boat a bunch it would be like sanding.... :lol:
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Whatever is on the bottom of mine doesn't wear off. It's like granite.
Rick,
The areas where the peel away took off all the paint it took very little effort with a random orbit to get the stain off. Yes, it's dull after that but it's also ready for whatever you intend to re-coat with. I personally am not attempting to buff the bottom back out to a shine. Mine is too rough anyway. I had to repair several gouges up front where the idiot previous owner jury rigged the trailer rollers and if the boat didn't hit straight the roller brackets hit the hull. I'm thinking an epoxy barrier coat and a good two part paint will do me just fine, especially since it's a trailered boat.
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Whatever is on the bottom of mine doesn't wear off. It's like granite.
When you p-washed the bottom, the area that you didn't peel-away, did it wash any blue off onto the trailer frame? Mine did. Maybe you have "granite" finish type :wink:
Rick,
The areas where the peel away took off all the paint it took very little effort with a random orbit to get the stain off. Yes, it's dull after that but it's also ready for whatever you intend to re-coat with. I personally am not attempting to buff the bottom back out to a shine. Mine is too rough anyway. I had to repair several gouges up front where the idiot previous owner jury rigged the trailer rollers and if the boat didn't hit straight the roller brackets hit the hull. I'm thinking an epoxy barrier coat and a good two part paint will do me just fine, especially since it's a trailered boat.
That's good info.
As I mentioned earlier, it'd be nice to go straight gelcoat but at what price? If I could get it looking decent, maybe sandblast and then sand and then spray a clear "something" on the bottom that would make it slick again, that would be acceptable. I don't want to intentionally add more drag with a rough bottom if I can help it. If I have to compound....
So, do they make that "something"? Like a clear epoxy barrier coat that doesn't need a top-coat? I really don't want to go paint again - look at all the fun we're having with paint :cry:
Oh, I got the number of a soda blaster down in Englewood from my canvas guy today. I called and left a message - hopefully he'll call back this week. Otherwise, it's sandblast time.
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No, p-washing doesn't do anything to mine. You probably have the ablative type paint that is designed to wear off.
The black bottom paint that is on my flats boat is ablative. If you run a soapy rag over it, it put's black on the rag. If I wax it, I have to tape off the black or else the black smears into white with the wax. :roll:
Did I ever mention that I HATE BOTTOM PAINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Rick, have you tried the car compound?
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Any car compound I have ever used stains the gelcoat a nice peach color. 3M makes a good WHITE fiberglass compound.
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Rick, have you tried the car compound?
I originally purchased this wax http://www.aqua-buff.com/ to bring back the hull and top sides. After I bought the wax and it arrived, I went to my trusty Harbor Freight to buy a buffer to use with this stuff and met this young fella there while waiting in line (could swear I told this story already here) and he started commenting on how good that buffer worked - come to find out that he did boat detailing and he told me that the easiest stuff he'd found to use was at Marine Surplus - the only stuff they have - wax and compound in one - that I should not waste my time on anything else and to go buy it. I did, used it instead of what I bought, and that stuff worked great - Yachtex is the brand, supposedly made right here on a little island in the mouth of Tampa bay - or at least that is where the address is. I can't find it searching the web - maybe someone else can.
Anyway, long story short, I never used the original stuff I bought and as you can see, it has 2 "grades" (1000 and 2000 grit) which I bought both, and this might be a good use for it, to bring back the bottom.
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No, p-washing doesn't do anything to mine. You probably have the ablative type paint that is designed to wear off.
The black bottom paint that is on my flats boat is ablative. If you run a soapy rag over it, it put's black on the rag. If I wax it, I have to tape off the black or else the black smears into white with the wax. :roll:
Did I ever mention that I HATE BOTTOM PAINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wasn't the flats boat on a trailer when you bought it? Guess they left it in the water alot to warrant bottom paint - what a shame.
The bottom paint on my 170 is easy since it's house paint, kinda like ablative, especially on the keel. This marine bottom paint is a pain but I guess it does what it is supposed to.
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I called the soda blaster guy again today after he was recommended by a marina and got ahold of him (must be nice to be too busy to return calls :roll: ) and yakked with him for a few.
1) He said that the finish would need sanding when done if I wanted to restore it to gelcoat - seems "gelcoat is never the same thickness everywhere and I'll probably eat through it in some places and then you'll need that to be repaired, which will probably not match"
2) his suggestion is to let him blast it off and arrange someone to shoot new gelcoat on :shock:
3) I mentioned that soda is supposed to be softer than gelcoat but harder than paint, so why the harsh results? He said that if the boat was a new boat that the owner wanted to bring back to gelcoat he might be able to turn the pressure down to about 40 lbs and do this - I think I was just prejudged :? "Not on your old boat" :(
4) seemed the guy just wanted to get in and out and "you'll probably want to repaint"
Anyway, $100 to get the boat taken off the trailer and put on stands at a marina buddy of his, Length X Length for a price, $100 for EPA to haul away the old paint (pesticides in it) and $100 for visqueening off the area around boat.
I will compare this to what the sand blast guy quotes on Monday.
He did mention that his recommendation was to put "Hard" bottom paint back on if the boat will kept be on a trailer - "comes in just about any color you want".
If I do have to go back to paint :cry: , any thoughts on this "Hard" paint? Who makes it? Is it shiny? I know it can't be the stuff Wart was showing, because that isn't really bottom paint.
Anyone know how much it costs to shoot new gelcoat?
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There is a type of bottom paint that is designed for boats on trailers. I know of no anti-fouling paint that is shiny. He is suggesting bottom paint so it's dullness will hide all the gouges he makes in the hull. I don't even want to guess how much it would cost to hire the gelcoat redone. :shock: The bottom will have to have a lot of prep to get a good looking gelcoat re-done.
BTW, if any of the people you talk to are named Chris or Ron, run like hell.
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No Ron or Chris - whew!!
I think I'm gonna end up with paint on the bottom whether I really want it or not. It's not worth the fortune it'll cost to do it.
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Now that you have read it, I'm deleting the post. I don't need to get sued. I should have used PM.
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hmmm, that post did not have the X. I had to edit.
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hmmm, that post did not have the X. I had to edit.
I'm starting to think the "X"s have a time limit and then disappear. I can scroll back through this whole thread and none of mine have an X on them anymore :?: :?:
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The mechanics of how Classicaquasport.com works, and sometimes doesn't, is a mystery... :roll:
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How badly do you want to learn the internal workings? :wink:
http://www.phpbb.com/support/ (http://www.phpbb.com/support/)
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Picking up the 230 tomorrow. I had decided on painting the bottom as you might remember and after explaining what I wanted, the guy found a white hard ablative. I saw it Saturday and it looked pretty good - a little off color to the gelcoat but not ghastly like the paint that was on it. The 6 carbs have been gone through too - so she should be ready to go. I have to put a new boot stripe on - pix to follow.
:D :D
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Moving right along!
Expect to see some "glamor shots" of her when she's back home.
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Expect to see some "glamor shots" of her when she's back home.
I guess we need to get together sometimes so we can make some running shots on the water. I don't have anyone to make pics but me. The wife is lousy with a camera.
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I'm a little old to be running in the water (at least that's what I tell myself) but if that's what you want... might be a little ugly :roll:
Oh, you mean showing the boats on plane - I'm game.
:lol: :lol: (gotcha)
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(http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmilep.gif)
I had to steal that smiley.
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Maybe try to get some video shots of your two boats underway?
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I have an old super8 but no digital video. My camera will take movies but the quality isn't there.
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How 'bout that fancy new phone of yours?
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On this thread of Rick's I've noticed that the page count shows one more page than is actually there. Anybody else see that? Says there's sixteen pages but there's actually fifteen.
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I have the page count issue also.
I can take up to a 4 minute video with my phone but due to Verizon crippling the phone, there is no way of getting it off without hacking the phone software. :roll:
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Ok, now we have sixteen pages.
The problem with transferring video from your phone begs the question why they even left the movie capability on the phone at all. Only way to see the films is to watch them on the phone screen?
RickK, sorry for the extreme de-rail.
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Actually Verizon has a website you can send the pics or videos to, then download to your computer. The 'gotcha' is that they force you to burn your minutes transferring them. Quality is greatly reduced with that type of transfer also.
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I've been seeing the extra page for about 3 pages now - thought it was just me. Don't see that on any other long threads - so maybe this one is cursed.
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Here is the new bottom paint and new boot stripe:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68new_bottom_paint1.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68new_bottom_paint2.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68new_bottom_paint4.JPG)
Looks much better than the original and helps blend the bottom to the top.
Unfortunately, the carb work was not correct, so I have to take her back to the mechanic this morning - hopefully he'll get it right this time <!-- s:roll: -->:roll:<!-- s:roll: --> .
The fuel flow sensor showed .8-.9gph at idle before I took it to him for the rebuild and when I got it back, it showed 2.8gph <!-- s:shock: -->:shock:<!-- s:shock: --> I also lost 10mph at the top end and it was showing approx 30 gph WOT, which I hope is high.
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WOW! Came out beautifully RickK!
If there is a shading difference between the bottom and the topsides, only you can see it.
Wonder if the mechanic even bothered to test run the engine...
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Thanks.
The light was bad in the pix. There is a definite color difference but it's subtle enough to get by.
I had the guy start the motor for me before I picked it up and it was running at a high idle then, and I mentioned it then. He said that it would idle down under load, which I knew would only be a little bit. I called him about 30 minutes after getting it back to my house, Saturday, so it was fresh in his mind. He said bring it back in today.
Anyway, the ball is in his court now and it will get fixed.
EDIT: Took the boat back in this morning and he is going to send it out to a Yamaha dealer in town to get it fixed right :D
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That looks really good Rick. No one will notice the color but you.
Which mechanic?
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The boat was taken to SaraBay Marina (Yamaha Dealer) last Tuesday and is still there :cry: . There is never any urgency when it's not their boat. I guess I can put up with it as long as it's done right.
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Nice to have the back-up 170 while the other's at the shop.
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It's been raining here for a few days and I need to finish the repair to the bottom. Maybe today it'll clear and I can get on it.
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Winter is supposed to be our dry season...
:?
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Picked her back up today - good to have her back in the yard. The mechanic told me he got the fuel flow down to 1.2gph at idle and about 22gph at WOT (he couldn't quite remember what the WOT flow was). Said it runs fine now. Will have to take his word for it as I won't be able to take her out until next weekend at the earliest. I will fire it up on the hose this weekend though.
I wonder how the original flow was at .8gph at idle but they couldn't reproduce that? And it ran fine at that setting.
I remember a thread on here a while ago that "guesstimated" the WOT fuel usage of a motor - if I remember right, something about close to the HP10 - which would put the 250 , using 22gph about right?
Anyone remember?
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My 225 shows 2 more or less at idle and I can hit 23-25 gph at wot.
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Sounds like the formula is close. At least I don't have trips on the back :lol:
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I wish I knew what was on page 17 of this thread. :wink:
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You are!! :D (and now the bug is gone until the end of this page)
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:lol:
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I started the 230 yesterday on the hose and after it warmed up, the fuel flow stayed at 1.8ish :?: Couldn't tell where it was idling, the tach is on the fritz again :roll: Sounded like a low idle though. I wonder why they couldn't get the fuel flow back where it was when I brought it in to them?
I did learn a couple things though: 1) unlike my Johnson where you push the key in to choke it, the '91 Yamaha choke is controlled by computer and temp. If it senses the motor is cold, the fuel bypasses the floats and is dumped right into the carbs. When it warms up, the fuel then is sent through the bowls/floats. The motor should start just by turning the key, cold or not. I wondered why I couldn't push in on the key and hear the chokes move :roll: 2)There is an electric fuel pump, and you don't want to turn the key on when it's cold (like to check a guage or something), unless you're running the motor (back to the "dumping fuel right into the carbs" thing). Supposedly, once it warms up, I should hear the pump stop as the floats close off the fuel flow.
Time to dig into the repair manual and do some reading.
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Is it charging with 13.6 or more volts when running? I don't know about that motor but on many the tach pulses come from the same box that regulates the battery charging. On my 225 OMC when the tach quit so did the charging system.
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I don't know - I'll have to put a meter on it and/or watch the chart-plotter which has a voltage reading on it (I think the fuel flow gauge does too). I tried to start the boat and found the #1 battery dead or too low to start it :?: . Flipped to all and it started right up. The receipt from SaraBay says they "found no codes", so I'm assuming everything is ok in there.
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Wonder why the battery was low? Any dates indicated on the scratch-offs on the batteries?
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If I remember right, Mar or May 06 on both batteries. Maybe the guys working on it left the switch on? I charged both batteries up.
On a recent trip to Marine Surplus I bought 3 on/off switches and a 30amp circuit breaker. I need to get the rest of the hardware and I'll be ready to finish the control circuitry - then I'll know what is going on back there.
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Well, I found out what the problem was with the battery - the end of the cable was loose and needed to be replaced. Works fine now.
Finally got a chance to take the 230 out yesterday to test the job the mechanic(s) had done on the carbs. Seems to idle ok in neutral (about 800 rpm) and the rpm at the top is around 5300, approx 37-38 mph. Fuel flow seems to be back where it should be too - the manual says about 27 gph max which is about where it was. Cruising at 4000 rpm was about 28 mph and about 14 gph.
Decided to take her on the outside and run from New Pass in Sarasota to the Venice Jetties - a good 16 mile run in the gulf. Wind was 10-15 from the S-SE and I was heading south - 2-3s with whitecaps all the way. Was able to keep it about 22-23mph the whole way without being too uncomfortable (should have planned a little better and reversed the route). So, after the 45 minute run, the motor was good and warmed up and I started seeing a problem: when I put the motor in forward at idle, it would start missing and if left alone, would cause the motor to die. It would start right back up and idle in neutral fine but when loaded, it runs rough at idle. Bump it up a little and it runs fine. So, I guess it's back to the mechanic. :? Probably needs the idle raised just a tad.
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Idle jets may be mis-adjusted. If you have the book it should describe adjustment procedure.
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I know that is aggravating. Hopefully it's just a tweak that is needed.
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Idle jets may be mis-adjusted. If you have the book it should describe adjustment procedure.
I think they have some warrantee on this - I'll call them tomorrow on my way to Detroit :shock:
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I know that is aggravating. Hopefully it's just a tweak that is needed.
I would think it is 6 tweaks - that's why I won't do it. After their warrantee (I hope they have one) runs out I might try to tackle it. Other wise I may have to call Ray and take Colin out on it and let him adjust it on the water.
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I think we've hit page 18 because I'm getting that same "No posts exist for this topic" bug again now.
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Hello RickK,
Saw the new pictures of the boat; beautiful!!
I am thinking about adding an aft bimini to my 245 and I was wondering if you added the bimini or if it was on the boat when you purchased it?
I was wondering what measurements it is and if you are happy with the height and length? Does it get in the way when fishing or trolling?
I think I have to get one or my wife, kids and I will turn to lobsters.
If you don't have the measurements don't worry about it.
Thanks
Justin
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Hello RickK,
Saw the new pictures of the boat; beautiful!!
Thanks Justin. She's coming along nicely - Cosmetically, she's just about as far as I want to take her. I am going to redo the decals but that is about it.
I am thinking about adding an aft bimini to my 245 and I was wondering if you added the bimini or if it was on the boat when you purchased it?
I was wondering what measurements it is and if you are happy with the height and length? Does it get in the way when fishing or trolling?
I think I have to get one or my wife, kids and I will turn to lobsters.
If you don't have the measurements don't worry about it.
Thanks
Justin
If you look at page one of this thread you'll see the "before" and then look at page 10,11 for the "after" (I think 12 has the cover) - all custom with total vinyl enclosure and now, total screen enclosure too :D
I'm sure the back bimini will get in the way of fishing unless you're diggin' straight down for the deep ones. Trolling should not be bad until you have to reel them in. This boat (and yours) is made for heading out and diggin' so the bimini would be a welcome cover from the sun on your boat. I haven't been way out yet - 1) Need a kicker (waiting for you to rig yours, so I can see what my options are :wink: ) 2) Haven't quite had the time to use the boat, let alone go for an all day trip yet 3)I'm not a big deep sea fishing fan - I don't mind going out but I really love the skinny water.
I bought this boat more for relaxing and cruising around, maybe to the bahamas and keys eventually (I've had the 170 for 19 years now and the 230 will probably be around awhile too). It is way more comfortable than the 170 and that makes my wife happy when she's with me. She didn't like the way the 170 handled in sloppy water. "Too bumpy"!! I really think she needs a hover craft :lol:
The main reason I did the back bimini was to give us some shade over a big hangout place - we had it up yesterday, in the middle of the day it was perfect. When we start camping in the boat, the total bimini, the vinyl and screens will really help. The bimini will help keep everything in the back dry, the vinyl is for the sudden storms we get here in the summer - nothing like being couped up in the hot cabin waiting out a rough storm, huh. Now I can zip in vinyl on one side of the boat or all around and sit it out in comfort. The screens will be awesome for the bugs. I hope the mesh is small enough to block the "no-see-ums" we have here - like flying teeth and they tear you up.
We're still waiting for some pix of your boat - do you have a hard top? You see how my 2 biminis join into one big one - if you are worried about the back one getting in the way of trolling have your canvas guy make it so it folds forward, so you can get it out of the way when fighting the fish. A good canvas guy will be able to figure it out. If you have soft tops like me, you can use these pix to show your canvas guy what you want. If you have a hard top and just want a big bimini in back, that won't be a big deal - figure 8 x 8 or so. I wanted a continuous bimini so I wouldn't have "leaks" of water coming in. My buddy has a 250 Explorer with hard top and rear bimini and he has that "gap" that leaks water.
Sorry I babbled so much.
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Morning RickK,
I saw the pictures on page 10-12. Really nice!!! You can do anything or go anywhere now without fear of weather.
I have a soft top bimini over the helm that needs to be replaced.
I saw a boat with a platform in the back like mine that had a custom kicker mount. It was a boat for sale in Florida. Basically it had a regular transom mount that was mounted on a flat piece of aluminum. The aluminum was welded to two inch aluminum square pipe in an elbow right angle with another flat piece welded to the pipe and then bolted to the boat.
I will try to get the address.
Talk with you later.
Justin
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I have a soft top bimini over the helm that needs to be replaced.
If you want a continuous bimini all the way back, the biggest thing for the canvas guy to do is bridge the width difference between the helm bimini and the aft one. If I had to do this over again, I'd talk more with the canvas guy to figure out a way to fold the aft top forward and have it boot up right behind the helm top instead of folding up to the rear. Oh well.
I saw a boat with a platform in the back like mine that had a custom kicker mount. It was a boat for sale in Florida. Basically it had a regular transom mount that was mounted on a flat piece of aluminum. The aluminum was welded to two inch aluminum square pipe in an elbow right angle with another flat piece welded to the pipe and then bolted to the boat.
Sounds like an easy mount to make - or maybe you could work something into your platform like this? (http://ctfisherman.com/data/1644FSH-06TrophyinSlipfromAftatSunset800x9-18-06-med.jpg) This pic had me confused briefly, until I realized the boat is an I/O or Inboard and this was the kicker - pretty small kicker to push that big boat though, I would think. Unless he already has dual engines and this is just for trolling. :?:
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Interesting set up. You are right, that 9.9 must be for trolling. But I guess it would get the job done if there was no head wind.
Thanks for the idea. I couldn't find the picture of the one I was talking about.
I will talk with my canvas guy about the bimini being continuous when I get it done this spring.
Justin
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I will talk with my canvas guy about the bimini being continuous when I get it done this spring.
I think you'll like it like that but make sure you spend 30-60 minutes talking to the guy, bouncing ideas off him to make it work for the way you fish and relax. Don't be afraid to voice your ideas - may be something he never thought of.
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Anything new? Taken any trips or over-nighters? Would like to see some pictures of her in the water
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Nothing besides a couple hour cruise/hang out/fishing last weekend - the biminis were a blessing as the sun was brutal that day. This weekend we were going to go out but the wind is 20+ gusts after sunrise and all day :cry: .
We are going up to where the get-together will be, on Easter weekend, for a dry-run campout for the weekend. Will be the first campout on the boat and I can't wait.
Waiting for some 150 amp CBs to arrive so I can finish the battery switches/ACR/dual bank charger system- like the one Wart did. Layed it all out on a 15x15 peice of 3/4" plywood. 5200'd 4 - 3" sq blocks of plywood to the inside of the hull, back where the batteries are, yesterday. Will pull the braces off this morning and check them out. Then I'm going to coat them in resin to protect them - figured I'd do this last to allow the 5200 to get a good grip on raw wood. The 15x15 board weighs maybe 10 pounds, so I need some solid areas to screw this board to. Then I'll remove the A+B switch that the previous owner bolted through the side of the hull :roll: and screw on /connect the new system.
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I'd forgotten about those bolts through the hull for the switch... Please shoot some pictures of the system as you put it together.
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I guesstimated the weight of the board with components a little light, I think. Seems the board probably weighs closer to 20lbs with the dual bank charger included and I don't think 5200 will support that much weight vertically, even if it is spread over 4 - 3x3 blocks. I'm going to put a bottom brace/support that will go to the bottom of the hull sidewall in that area to support the weight and then the blocks will only have to keep the board tight to the hull.
After writing the post this morning I went to work on the boat, got another of the pumps working - the raw water washdown - seems one half of a double pole-single throw switch went bad AND while trying to figure out the wiring found that one end of the wire was labelled #21 while the other was #14. :roll: Both wire tags looked original.
Bought the BBQ I needed for the boat last weekend, started to assemble it yesterday and got to the part where it told me to verify the spark - nothing, go figure. Called Boater's World, they told me to bring it back in, which I did today and verified that the spark was working on the new one while I was still in the store. I guess sometimes it is worth paying a little more for an item knowing that you can walk back in with a problem and they'll fix it while you stand there - no fuss, no muss. Sure beats having to box it back up and ship it back to the vendor :wink:
The next thing I need to figure out is a fresh water source. I think I'm going to try to fit some kind of tank behind the fish well in the bilge area of the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2180&title=230-bilge3&cat=500)
Should be able to get a 50 gallon"ish" tank back in there somehow. Gonna need some fresh water to live comfortably on the boat for a few days - you know, showers, coffee, wash dishes, brush teeth, water for the dog, raw water to clean the boat - fresh to rinse it. Will go fast - a few days worth only.
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Can you use that empty well as the tank itself?
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After tossing it around with Dave, I'm starting to think that pulling the fishwell out totally and dropping a square fresh water tank in there, is the way to go. Just need to figure out how to brace it from sliding around. Seems after a quick search, I can get a 55 gal poly tank for around $160 on average. Just need to get the measurements of the bilge area and then find a square tank. I'm gonna try to get the measurements tonight.
If I design it right, I can take it out and put the fishwell back in if I need to.
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I need to call on the team here - My bilge area is 28.5Wx25Lx16H max and would like to put a rectangular poly water tank in there.
I've been surfing and found one here (http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=716) and it is about the closest I can find. There is no room to fudge anything larger either.
Can you guys check your favorite sources and see if you can come up with anything better please?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2172&title=230-bilge1&cat=500)
The bilge is wider at the top on 3 sides and I guess I could foam it in on those 3 sides - the toughest thing I can see is to brace it in from the rear so it doesn't break free on takeoff and wipe out my thru hulls in the back :shock: :shock: :shock: I may even be able to strap it around to the front and anchor it there. Just don't want to even think about 300+lbs sliding to the rear at ......
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I hunted around some but that tank you found looks pretty close to your dimensions and they offer installation of the fittings where you want them. Securing it shouldn't be a problem with some heavy web strapping. You could glass in some 1" battens to receive the tank base then strap it down. Whatever you put in should be easily removable so you can access the thru hulls & etc. that's in there.
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I have just about completed the battery control board for this boat.
First of all I want to mention that it was instigated by Wart and it made sense to me to do since I want to use this boat for camping and need to protect the starting battery. Thanks for the inspiration Wart.
I've mentioned that I only had about a 16" sq area to work with, so that being said I needed to make it tidy and useful and this is what I came up with on a 15x15 board:
To keep everything close I realized I couldn't use wire - no way. Close connections are impossible due to the bend limitations of heavy wire. I decided to use 1/8" aluminum pieces to connect what I could, to keep everything within the constraints of the board size.
Here is the house, the "combine" and the starting switches connected - from the back....
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68battery_control04.JPG)
and the front (hey I can still see my feet :D - BTW those are Floridian snow shoes I'm wearing)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68battery_control03.JPG)
Here is the Blue Seas ACR with required 150 amp CBs (or slow blows which I couldn't find) attached:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68battery_control01.JPG)
Then I resin coated the board and the 4 mounting 3x3s in the boat - after cure, I then gelcoated the board and the 3x3s. Here is what I came up with:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68battery_control10.JPG)
To explain it; from the top left, I have the ACR with required CBs attached.
The switches below control the batteries. From the left: house sw with the 30amp cb on the output, combine sw, starting sw.
The connection stud to the left is for the house battery "IN", the connection stud to the right is for the starting battery (engine) "OUT". I am going to buy another stud tomorrow for the starting battery "IN" connection, which will be mounted right above the charger. I could connect the starting battery directly to the the left side of the right sw but figure it would be easier in the long run to have a separate connection so I don't have to lift the switches from the board if I need to disconnect anything.
Bottom right is a dual bank 12V charger.
Tomorrow I will get it installed in the boat. I'll predrill a hole in each corner and screw this board to the 3x3s already mounted on the boat. One more "Check" on the list.
PS: For all you sharp guys; Yes, I'll have to remove the charger to do that.
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Looks good Rick! Nice thing about your layout is it's easy follow exactly what's going on. Another example for my reference scrapbook for when my project gets wired.
Did you fabricate the aluminum busses or are they commercially available? Do you put a conformal coating on the connections to protect against corrosion?
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Looks good Rick! Nice thing about your layout is it's easy follow exactly what's going on. Another example for my reference scrapbook for when my project gets wired.
Thanks, it took a few tries at the layout to get it where it made sense. It also took a few tries, using wire, to find out wire was not the answer. That's when I came up with the aluminum bar approach.
Did you fabricate the aluminum busses or are they commercially available?
Fabricated them from some 1/8" stock I had.
Do you put a conformal coating on the connections to protect against corrosion?
Since JJ works around some HEAVY DUTY voltages in his line of work, I ran my design past him after I made and installed the bars. He told me that I should get some of this (http://www.idealindustries.com/wi/Accessories.nsf) to coat the connections. He also told me the terminals are tinned brass and that brass and aluminum don't like each other. This will help protect the aluminum. I'll pick some up while I'm out today, coat everything and then install it permanent.
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I pulled the batteries, put the support board in and then mounted the battery control board - sure looked nice in there :D
Next was to get the batteries back in and then wire it up - the support board is 3/4" thick and it was slid behind the main bundle of wires coming down the side of the boat.
After about a half hour and many different tries, I found out that the batteries will not fit back in because the wires are sticking out too far now :cry:
So I had to pull the support board back out - sure hope that 5200 on the back of the 3x3 backer boards holds it up - it "set" for a week before anything was attached to it.
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Were you finally able to get the batteries in OK? Is there room for tie-down strapping? 5200 will be holding long after the both of us are gone.
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If both surfaces were clean it should hold.
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After strapping the cabling again (I'd cut the existing trying to re-route) and a bit of verbal encouragement :oops: , I was able to get the batteries back in. No room for anything else in there, that's for sure.
I sanded the hull lightly and the 3x3 blocks were raw - hope it holds. The board is probably 20+ pounds.
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I had the same problem in my console. with 3 batteries and the 3-bank onboard charger there is not room for much else. I think I have a plastic container with some cheese crackers, a couple of caps, and a couple of hand towels. I did make the cables long enough that I can pull a battery out to check it without having to disconnect it. I have to lay on the deck to reach in and strap them down.
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To follow up on the 230's maiden campout. We (my family in the 230 EXP and CaptAqua250EXPLTD's (we'll call him Dave so I don't have to type so much) family in his 250 EXP) chose Apr 5th as the target date and a front had dropped through the night before and it was pretty "breezy" here on departure day. Oh well, come hell or high water.... we were towing south to a place around Boca Grande.
We arrived to a really stiff Northerly breeze (20-25) and 2+' whitecaps in the ICW :shock: We were going to be heading South so it wasn't going to be too bad. We got to Cayo Costa - a state park in the mouth of Boca Grande accessible only by water - about an hour later and the waves were 4-6' by then. We headed to a somewhat lee side, backed up to the beach, anchored in, tied the boats together and settled in.
I put up the vinyl 3/4s the way around and zipped in screen the last 1/4 (aft port). It cut the wind to nothing and left it quite comfortable in the boat (shorts and t-shirts).
The next day we headed farther South to cruise near Captiva and Gasparilla Islands - wind was still howling so I left the "condo" put together once it was up. If I unzipped the back panel and stepped outside, I was almost blown off the boat, that's how hard it was blowing. Inside, snug as a bug - best investment made in the boat so far. Saturday night/Sunday morning, even with the canvas, I had to put on sweat pants and socks, so the windchill was pretty bad still. I can honestly say that if we didn't have the canvas on this trip, this would have been my wife's last campout on the boat. Now, she's game for the next one.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68camping_APR07-1.JPG)
Dave's boat
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Daves_boat1.JPG)
Had the dogs with us so we had to island hop to let them do their thing. The chocolate lab is Dave's and the little black smudge beside her is our 5 month old black lab. She was learning how to swim that day.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68camping_APR07-2.JPG)
We headed to another spoil island for the night and had the dogs out again and I looked down the beach and here comes this black wild pig. Dave had his dog in his boat and mine was on the beach with me. I figured that if the little puppy saw this thing I would probably never see her again. Soon as I thought it she saw it and off she went. We watched as she chased the pig into the woods, out of the woods and back into the woods again. We didn't see her for a minute or 2 and then all of a sudden we see her flying out of the woods, bottom tucked under her and the pig chasing her :lol: We rolled on the floor laughing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68camping_APR07-3.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68camping_APR07-4.JPG)
It was a wonderful, mini-vacation. Didn't get to fish any this time, it was more of a learning experience for us and we sure learned plenty. Boat ran great, no leaks anywhere, plenty of room. Great boat. Super canvas. Super time.
Ready for the get-together now.
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Appears the little piggy wanted to come aboard for dinner... pork chops perhaps?
I know you were somewhat dazed about the cost of the canvas-work but it has already saved your first weekend. Tough to beat that return on investment. Looks great!
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Do you have the Lat/Lon of the pig? :wink:
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You're right Jim, the canvas was a trip, and future trip, saver. And worth every penny. Definitely on Dave's list now too, right near the top.
JJ, yes I do, as a matter of fact. :wink:
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Give your Lab a little time and perhaps she can bring home the bacon.
Did you get any rain or take on any spray on your trip to see if there were any drips? Any problems handling the boat with the canvas up?
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I definitely had a new experience everytime I tried to dock with the canvas up. Like a big sail. I need a speed knob on the steering wheel, for sure. Learn, learn, learn. I saw someone post a link to some knobs on ebay a while back. I'll have to dig a little.
No rain, had the windows in the cabin open on the way to the first site and found that a little water came in through them. On the initial cruise south we didn't have any of the canvas up, only the helm bimini and the spray wasn't too bad. If anything came over the front it went right over the windshield (gotta duck quickly :) ) into the cockpit behind us. I remember how I learned about that the hard way. My wife and neighbor's wife were sitting in the back - neighbor and I were up front - we hit some wave, we both saw it coming up, ducked and the water landed on the wives in the back. Funny - at least to us up front. :wink: An early lesson, if you know what I mean. :roll:
We learned on this trip that if there is any wind or rough water, the helm bimini and vinyl goes up, at a minimum.
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NAPA sells the knobs... at least they used to.
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They're nicknamed "Suicide Knobs" and come in all shapes and sizes. Pick the one that suits your personality:
http://www.thehotrodgirl.com/suicideknobs.html (http://www.thehotrodgirl.com/suicideknobs.html)
http://www.kingofdice.com/tear.asp (http://www.kingofdice.com/tear.asp)
At the following site, I'm not sure if I would go for the 3 Stooges version or for Elvis:
http://stores.ebay.com/LOST-IN-THE-50S_ ... idZ2QQtZkm (http://stores.ebay.com/LOST-IN-THE-50S_SUICIDE-KNOBS_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ3QQftidZ2QQtZkm)
See ya on the water!
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Years ago there was a little known variation of the suicide knob. Instead of the customary knob, there was a smooth loop you could hook a finger through. Very, very cool and a singularly efficient way to bust or rip off a finger. But back then dashboards were painted steel and seat belts were unknown. Suicide knobs in cars were made illegal in several states after a few unlucky motorists managed to put knobs through their foreheads...
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They sure make a ton of these, out of any "thing" or any material you'd ever want. Some of these look like they'd lay you wide open if you didn't grab them just right too. That's not a good thing when you're trying to react quickly.
My steering wheel is mounted straight up and down, so I'm not looking for a "palm" type of necker knob. I'm looking for one that I can stand off to the side and "crank" the wheel. Also, I'm looking for it in stainless.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAINLESS-STEEL-STEERING-WHEEL-SUICIDE-KNOB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31283QQihZ013QQitemZ230116006002QQrdZ1
It looks like you mount it with the knob on the outside of the wheel otherwise the clip part could cut you.
This one looks like it doesn't have any sharp egdes on it and folds out of the way. Maybe could be mounted with the knob on the inside of the wheel too, so it's more out of the way.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOLD-DOWN-HANDICAP-STEERING-WHEEL-KNOB-BRAND-NEW-B_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33704QQihZ006QQitemZ160105204742QQrdZ1
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I guess they don't call them "Suicide Knobs" for nothing...
:oops:
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Rick, I've seen those flip-out cranks somewhere.
When in use it's perpendicular to the plane of the wheel so you can crank with it. When not needed it flips in so that the end of the crank handle is pointing toward the center of the wheel.
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Rick, Marine Surplus has the knobs, all SS, something like $22. Ask at the counter.
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Rick, Marine Surplus has the knobs, all SS, something like $22. Ask at the counter.
There ya go - thanks JJ.
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Or you can go to West Marine and pay $89 for an Edson brand :roll:
Only a little de-rail here, I promise. I never pass up a chance to bash West Marine pricing. I was looking for downrigger weights a few weeks ago. Boaters World was out, West wanted $47.95 ea. for a freaking 8 lb. ball of lead. I was in Savannah, GA a couple of weeks ago and stopped in Bass Pro and picked up the same weights for $17.95 ea. :twisted:
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Did some camping for 2 days at the recent get-together and I had my all-around light on both nights. On Sunday morning I got a low battery alarm (house battery) on the ChartPlotter when I turned it on (all-around was off by then). I switched on the starter battery, fired up the engine and let it idle for a while and the alarm went out. Guess I can't expect to camp for a few days unless I idle around all day to charge the batteries for a night of camping.
Looks like I need to investigate those LED all-arounds some more.
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How about a solar charging panel? Maybe a windmill generator?
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How about a solar charging panel? Maybe a windmill generator?
That's what I like about you Jim, always thinking.
Both valid ideas - any preferences? The solor panels are easy to find but those windmills? Probably a sailboat thing?
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Wind chargers have higher output but are fairly expensive. Solar panels are quiet & cheaper... mostly used for trickle-charging. One other thought; if you convert the lamp assembly over to LED you'd be able to leave it on for a month without a re-charge.
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Solar is nice, especially if you have a good spot for it - the top of a t-top would work well. Wind is a blowboat thing, as are the generators you trail behind the boat at speed - MHO is just a PITA.
For solar, I see two basic choices - one for just basic battery maintenance, the other as more of an actual power supply.
For battery maintenance, I use some of the panels that come in VW cars delivered to the US. VWs keep their computers on all the time, and the trip from Europe will drain the battery. VW puts a solar panel inside the windshield of every car delivered to the US. These are 3-4 watts, and you can get these on eBay - often for less than $20. I picked up 3 for $10 each and keep one on my boat when it's unattended - the batteries are always full charge when I'm ready to go. Check it out at:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... e=vw+solar (http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=vw+solar)
For more power (and we always like more power!), you probably want to go up to 30-40 watts - that will power your stereo and lights and keep the batteries up at the same time. Mo' power = Mo' money:
http://cgi.ebay.com/40-Watt-Solar-Panel ... dZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/40-Watt-Solar-Panel-12-Volt-RV-Marine-Battery-Charger_W0QQitemZ320109459560QQihZ011QQcategoryZ41981QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
Good luck and see ya on the water!
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Thanks GF.
What would you figure is the watt/amp needed to recharge a battery fully in one days worth of sunlight? The VW ones are 170mA (at least the ones I looked at) - can you parallel them? Should you use some form of regulator?
I found this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/20W-Flexible-Solar-Panel-ICP-PowerFlex-20-CABLES-NEW_W0QQitemZ120116309995QQihZ002QQcategoryZ41981QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem) and it looks to be very versatile (you can roll it up) and somewhat powerful (1.2A) - maybe I could bungy it across my rear bimini during the day - pricey though.
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Hey Rick, I highly recommend the solar charger. I have yet to come to the boat to find a dead battery. Always plenty of cranking power.. I got the Sunsei 1200 and it works great. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... artial/0/0 (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/244951/0/0/solar/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0)
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Thanks Ralph. How big is that panel - I don't see any specs on it. My concern is storing that beast when underway and camping. Price isn't bad though. :D I assume you had to use the Sunsei Charge Controller CC-10000? Another $40.
And then the question comes back - is 1.2 amps enough to recharge a battery that was powering a 360 incandescent light all night, in the daylight of one day?
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I think you would be fine with that Rick. Not very big and cumbersome. You would be amazed how fast that thing charges everything up when the sun is cranking.
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I'll have to start some research on insolation and what model would really pump enough current back into the battery (only worried about my house battery - starting battery is isolated/off when anchored) during the insolation for my area. I would think a 20W model should be enough but who knows.
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20W is not much. That would only keep up with a couple of small lights, maybe. Solar panels are barely battery maintainers, if the weather is good. If you are trying to re-charge a battery after using it all night, even with a light load, well, good luck.
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20W is not much. That would only keep up with a couple of small lights, maybe. Solar panels are barely battery maintainers, if the weather is good. If you are trying to re-charge a battery after using it all night, even with a light load, well, good luck.
I agree in part - but using a solar panel is much cheaper than idling or cruising all day to charge the battery. Should pay for itself in a few campouts, if substituted for the idling/cruising recharge @ $3.00/gal for fuel - street price. 20W is about 1.2A on a sunny day - I would think that would recharge the battery. I am also back on the track of buying a LED all-around. Then 20W should be plenty.
Still looking for some feedback from our Engineering members.
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I agree with Mr. Jones - 20 watts is really a battery maintainer, not a charger or a power supply. 40-50 (4 amps) watts is really the minimum to consider for something that is anywhere near a charger. If you are considering this as a charger, just ask yourself would you would buy a 1-2 amp charger for use to charge your batteries at home? Sailboat cruisers usually go for two or so 75 watt panels - that's enough to power what you need and not have to run an engine - which is their goal.
Space is also an issue - you've got to think about flat real estate on the boat that is big enough for a decent size panel. The top of a t-top would be ideal if you don't use it for stowage. :wink:
I use my little 7 watt VW panels just to keep the batteries up when the boat is stored, and they work well for that. They would be a spit in the bucket to try to recharge even a minute of use with my 24 volt trolling motor at 20-30 amps... There is a good reason why the current outboard motors have 40-80 amp alternators on them - all that new electronic gear uses power! The old stator-driven versions put out a maximum of 10 amps when everything worked right, and that was not enough. Outboards then evolved to use auto-type alternators driven by a belt so they could up the output and acommodate all the new stuff.
My $0.02 would be to consider if you want a charger or a maintainer. If you want a charger and go with 2 amps or less, as Scotty on Star Trek used to say, (say this in a Scottish brogue) "Captain, she won't stand the strain." :roll:
See ya on the water!
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Well, I don't have a T-top, so that real estate is not available. The more I look into this, the more these flexible panels seem to make sense. Easy to store and I could lay a couple over the back bimini - they don't weigh but a pound or 2 max. I haven't read that they get real hot like the standard panels warn about. The biggest hurdle is that they are BIG bucks and to double or triple them up to get the current :shock: . Maybe it's not feasible as a one-day charger, the reading I've done so far keep talking about max current for only 4 hours a day in their calcs .....I'll keep digging.
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Hell, just get a group 29 or even larger house battery and don't worry about charging it until you get home. I have a 82#, 24V trolling motor on the flats boat and I can fish two days without noticable loss of power. Group 27 deep cycles from Wal-Mart.
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Hell, just get a group 29 or even larger house battery and don't worry about charging it until you get home. I have a 82#, 24V trolling motor on the flats boat and I can fish two days without noticable loss of power. Group 27 deep cycles from Wal-Mart.
The battery box in the 230 only handles 2 of the smaller batteries and they barely fit :cry:
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(http://www.raisetheranch.com/images/sawzall.jpg)
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
When in doubt, cut it out!
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Geeeez, .... what a support group :!: :!:
:wink:
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LED's. If I recall, your only house load is lighting... unless you leave the electronics powered up. Maybe consider one of those little Honda generators.
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I used one of those little Honda generators on my flounder gigging boat. We had 12V 60W lights on the front and ran the generator in the back to keep the battery charged. It was surprisingly quiet and never missed a beat. The metal cover even had good enough paint to stand up to some salt spray and salt air. :wink:
Just make sure you run it in open air, never in an enclosed space!! :!:
See ya on the water!
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Hondas have a great reputation.
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LED's. If I recall, your only house load is lighting... unless you leave the electronics powered up. Maybe consider one of those little Honda generators.
Might even end up costing about the same...... :idea:
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Ok, on to the thru-hull raw water system.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge2.JPG)
I have one of these scoop/thru-hulls
(http://a1672.g.akamai.net/7/1672/116/20070501/www.ritzcamera.com/graphics/products/3-69/356220269.jpg)
on the bottom of my boat or one that looks like it anyway. Do they make these in Nylon? If not, then I guess my thru-hull is brass already. If it is brass, AND the seacock is nylon, then the MFR disobeyed the rules of not mixing types of materials. Still haven't started digging into it physically - just starting to plan and ordering stuff.
If it is brass, I see they are available in 1/2" or 3/4" OD - what is the usual size they'd install as a standard - 1/2"? Any idea?
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1/2 is probably plenty.
Mixing with non-reactive stuff like nylon is not a problem but I would not want any plastic between the ocean and the seacock.
BTW, BRONZE is what most marine stuff is made of. Brass has a short life in salt. Brass fittings and valves from Home Depot are not recommended for marine use.
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You probably have a 3/4"... that's what I have. Go over to TA Mahoney and get yourself a bronze ball valve for $30. Put some teflon tape on the threads and be done with it.
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I got into the bilge this weekend and tried to unscrew the plastic ballcock or whatever it was, to replace it as you guys advised me to do and it snapped right off in my hands. I guess they're not too stout :oops: Had anything been down there to fly around and hit it, not a good day - again, like you guys warned me.
Anyway, I cleaned up everything, wire brushed the bronze thru hull and headed to Boaters World. I bought a bronze ballvalve, some hose, a few fittings AND a Johnson 70psi washdown pump 8)
Here is what I came up with:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown5.JPG)
I don't have any other place to mount the pump, so it had to be in the bilge area. The last few trips had a yield of ZERO water in the bilge so I'm hoping that this construction will not change anything.
While I was in the bilge I mounted the fresh water 3.5gal/min 40psi FLOJET pump on the other side - next comes the fresh water tank in the bilge area.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown6.JPG)
I didn't want a bunch of hose laying around on the deck so I found a great (IMHO) spot to mount the connector and switch - under the helm seat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown1.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown2.JPG)
Once connected, the 25ft hose will give us plenty of hose to get to the extreme front and back of the boat without even beginning to stress or max out the coil.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown3.JPG)
As you can see, out of the way. The hose will be stored in the compartment under the seat until needed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown4.JPG)
I will put a matching setup under the Port helm seat for the fresh water /rinse setup. Johnson makes a nice control plate - SPST with indicator and fuse, on one plate. I'd like to find a way to buy another of those for the FLOJET I have for the fresh water side. Haven't found a way yet.
Any ideas?
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Glad you busted that plastic fitting in the driveway. Hole in the boat that size will let in a lot of water fast. Pump location looks good!
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Good job, Rickk..... It´s gonna be a lot harder to damage that new seacock.
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I forgot to mention that I ran 3/4" red stripe hose (the kind that you can see in the bilge) all the way to the connection point under the helm seat. Should be plenty of water and pressure available now.
I was going to, and may still, put a "T" in the line after the ball valve and re-incorporate the baitwell pump. If I could have found a bronze 3/4" T at the time, it'd be done already. There's always another day.
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If it matters to you, you can coat the bronze parts with fiberglass resin and they will not turn green. It does leave a dull look.
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Ok, if you want to see a disaster waiting to happen if not done right, here it is:
Before:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown6.JPG)
After:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank01a.JPG)
Now, how do you control a 40 gal water tank - approx 320 lbs full? Untethered could be very dangerous, taking out through-hulls, bilge pumps, etc - so here is how I did it.
I spent a little time planning this out and there was two choices to secure the tank: 1) Pressure Treated (which would out last me) or 2) when in Home Depot, I saw this composite board - made out of recycled plastic. Hmmmm - no wood, no moisture problem. Expensive though - $15 for a 5Wx8Lx1T - ok, I need 3.
First thought was that I need to spread this 320lbs out a little against the transom, so I built this brace for the transom with the right angle on the supports to keep it horizontal to the tank.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank03.JPG)
I needed a flat support that the tank would rest against when accelerating or when I pull her from the water, this was somewhat easy but how do you get the support tight to the tank so it is secure?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank04.JPG)
My idea to make this easy was to make a clamp-type approach where there was some adjustment - 1/2" to be exact, this way if somehow everything let loose, it wouldn't take out my pumps or thru-hulls. The support slides up tight to the tank and is tightened up via a 4" bolt on each support.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank07.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank05.JPG)
Now was the time to clean out the tank - a little bleach/water and a scrubby on all sides and it was ready to drop in.
I installed a 3/4" hose barb on the tank for the output, dropped the tank into the bilge and tied the hose barb to the pump via food quality hose,
After that, it was time to fill in the surrounding sides for stability.
The end result was this
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank11.JPG)
As I stated in an earlier post, the tank arrived in the size I ordered, exactly. The only problem was the bowing of the sides of the product and this hindered the installation. Oh well, what hasn't delayed the perfect install?
Took 2 days to install this:
First day I fished a fishtape down the Port side of the boat and then pulled a jet line and the new power line pair from the stern of the boat to the front. I then cut the holes necessary to accomodate the switch and the hose outlet, wired it and connected the hose to the hose outlet.
Ready for the water.
Day 2 I installed the tank and all supports.
Anyway, I put about 3 gallons of water in the tank, made sure the switches were correct and fired it up - first attempt it worked. 8)
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Nice installation!
How was the composition board to work with? I've seen the material at H.D. but never thought of using it for structural members on a boat. Are screws/bolts the only way of attaching it?
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That stuff is just like working with wood, maybe easier - just has weird sawdust :lol: It's heavy stuff though but should outlast me, the next owner, the boat, etc.
To join everything, I purchased specially coated screws made just for that material - the coating is such that it won't stain the material and is not supposed to rust. I don't know if you could glue it up like wood, since it doesn't absorb anything.
It was an exhausting couple of days but the end result was nice.
Ready to camp now. 8)
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I work with composition board alot. BE CAREFUL of expansion and contraction. My brother installs decks for a living.
On decking where there are spacers it is fine. But I will tell you it expands.
Underneath it will probally be fine.
It is manufactured to be secured as decking/ flat.
I have already used it, like you have and the boards began to twist.
I suggest you drill a few holes in it to allow expansion and contraction.
Just my 2 cents
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I work with composition board alot. BE CAREFUL of expansion and contraction. My brother installs decks for a living.
On decking where there are spacers it is fine. But I will tell you it expands.
Underneath it will probally be fine.
It is manufactured to be secured as decking/ flat.
I have already used it, like you have and the boards began to twist.
I suggest you drill a few holes in it to allow expansion and contraction.
Just my 2 cents
Thanks for the advice.
I did see that warning on the label. That was another reason I used the "clamp method" to attach to the rearward supports, hoping that if it started to twist, the clamp would keep it straight.
Good idea on the holes for expansion - how many and in any particular placing - ie down the center, along the edges or just everywhere?
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On my boat the water tank is secured with 2 one inch nylon straps,its an 8 gallon tank in a compartment under the floor in front of the console.Its been bounced around pretty good and has not come loose. http://images.westmarine.com/full/tiedown_f.jpg (http://images.westmarine.com/full/tiedown_f.jpg)
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It's been a long time since I added anything to the 230 and this is the time of the year when I usually burn vacation time so I don't lose it. About a year ago I bought some Johnson electronic float switches for the bilge pumps and figured yesterday was as good a day as any to start the task.
I emptied and removed the fresh water tank and put that aside. I then removed the bracing I had installed for the tank so I had access to the existing float switch. I initially had thoughts of putting the electronic switch in parallel with the existing one, electrically, but I decided against that. I unmounted the float switch and tilted it to turn the pump on, which it did. My plan was to somehow mount the new switch to the side of the existing so I didn't have to punch anymore holes into the hull. I used my thumbnail to scrape the gunk from the wires of the existing float switch and see the color of the wire and the wire ripped apart. I guess it was a good time to be doing this.
I took the float switch out of the SureBail plastic body and then drilled 2 holes into the side and mounted the new switch to the side with zip ties. Nice and secure and doesn't budge. The new float switch has a way to test it with your fingers placed on two spots - it worked. To be sure, I filled a bucket and submerged the switch into the water slowly - it worked there too :cheers: Then I screwed the old housing back where it was, tested the switch again with my fingers to make sure it still worked and then moved on to replace the front float switch under the floor in the cabin. This one was a little more work and again, zip ties came to the rescue.
The next thing to do was to change how the boat was wired. Everything was wired directly to the battery before I built my battery control board and I didn't change how the wiring was configured when I installed the board. I just connected the main wire to the switched side of my board. Unfortunately, if I switched off the house switch, the bilge pumps were disconnected too. Now was the time to correct that.
I pulled a new + wire from the battery location to the dash and changed how the 2 bilge switches got their voltage. I then fused the battery end and connected it to the battery. Now, my house circuits turn off when I switch the house battery off and my bilge pumps still remain active, so if I leave the boat in the water for a few days unattended it'll take care of itself, the way it should. No more worries.
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Congrats RickK... she looks awesome!
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In April '09 I bought some white and red LED lights from vehiclelights.com and finally installed them in the 230 this weekend in the cockpit. Installed up above the rodracks almost under the gunnels - 2 reds facing forward and 2 whites facing aft controlled by a single DPDT switched for all. For being so small I was impressed how much light these gave off - plenty for when we're camping. 8) 8) 8)
http://store.vehiclelight.com/2005503.html (http://store.vehiclelight.com/2005503.html)
http://store.vehiclelight.com/2004400.html (http://store.vehiclelight.com/2004400.html)
I still have one more of each that I will install in the helm area on another switch. Just have to figure the best place to put them.
Also, I was chatting with SB4 about volt meters and he pointed me to this, which I bought - I plan on rigging it with a SPDT switch so I can switch between the 2 batteries on the 230. I'm thinking about wiring it directly to the batteries so I can always see what's up with them. Probably wire/mount it back in the battery area - would be nice to have at the helm but really don't need it up there - we'll see what I come up with for mounting.
(http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/img/r102_r300.jpg)
Won't be long 'til we're camping again :D :D :D
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Also, I was chatting with SB4 about volt meters and he pointed me to this, which I bought - I plan on rigging it with a SPDT switch so I can switch between the 2 batteries on the 230. I'm thinking about wiring it directly to the batteries so I can always see what's up with them. Probably wire/mount it back in the battery area - would be nice to have at the helm but really don't need it up there - we'll see what I come up with for mounting.
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DocWattsonDCAmmeter.jpg)
http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/rv-battery-monitor.html (http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/rv-battery-monitor.html)
Won't be long 'til we're camping again :D :D :D
Cool device, I'm getting one, I'm tired of getting my volt meter out to check my battery :thumright: :thumright: :thumright:
Marc..
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I did this primarily because I've read somewhere that it is really only tenths of a volt that can tell you your battery is dying or is discharged, not having to go all the way to like 5v before it's obvious. I can't remember where I read this but I need early warning.
Example: After about 3 days of boat camping I got up in the morning and having left my chartplotter all night, saw it just flashing away and then died completely. :shock: The house battery was toast. I switched on the starting battery (which was totally fresh still), cranked up the engine and putted about 5 mph for a couple hours and the plotter would still not come on - I thought it was fried. These non-alternator (stator) engines just don't put out the juice unless they are at high RPM. Finally I put the boat up on plane and cruised about a half-hour and finally the plotter turned on :cheers:
I'll see what it will take to mount this somehow along with a switch - maybe on a peice of aluminum or something. Hopefully this weekend I'll design something.
Price is not bad compared to "real" marine digital volt meters. Not sure how water resistant it is either. I looked at it briefly last night and it didn't look bad.
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Rick,
This is very interesting because I was planning on installing a digital volt meter in my dash. I have a Datel model on my motorcycle and it's been drenched from heavy rains and subject to vibration constantly. Totally sealed, I'm positive it would work just fine in a marine environment.
Now you come along with this, which surprisingly is the same price (sans shipping) as the Datel and does much more.
Unlike you though, I wanted to monitor the charge (or lack thereof) going to the battery while underway. My bike charging system is also stator driven and the Datel has been a great indicator of real time operation. This has been beneficial in that the bike stator tends to fry over time, under heavy loads (extra lighting,GPS, radio etc.) and you can see it coming(via the gauge), thus begin shutting systems down in order to make it home.
I guess my question would be, can I use your gauge in the same basic manner on the boat? I can see the voltage management underway as a good stator condition indicator as well as the additional metering functions when I do my "overnighters". I'm going to contact the company and explain my thoughts and hopefully get the proper wiring technique.
I was thinking of wiring directly to my + and - buss bars and using the battery switch as the reset.
This is what's great about this group. Ideas everywhere.
PS... thanks for the hatch tip.
More to follow.
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I'll see what it will take to mount this somehow along with a switch
Would the switch be to turn it on/off or to select a different battery?
Marc..
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I'll probably use a SPDT, so On House-OFF-On Starting and common the black lead. No use leaving it on. I guess it will hold an avg too, as long as power is not interrupted. Every time I would switch to a different battery, I would lose the avg.
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. Every time I would switch to a different battery, I would lose the avg.
True
Marc..
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The past few days I got a chance to work on the V-meter - went with a SPDT switch but no OFF, so not sure what that makes it - has a common and 2 poles but the switch acts as a on-off, so it's either connecting to one pole or the other. So I leave it on the house battery all the time.
Started with a piece of stainless that I had laying around, bent it into a standoff, drill some holes and mounted the meter with zip ties (WHAT did we ever do with out these things)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18549&title=v-meter&cat=872)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18550&title=v-meter1&cat=872)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18552&title=v-meter3&cat=872)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18551&title=v-meter2&cat=872)
I zip-tied the wires with a shock loop and sealed/coated all electrical points with liquid electrical tape. I figure with the shock loop the butt connectors will last forever.
Here it is mounted on the battery control board I made a few seasons ago. I just LOVE working through that access hatch :roll: :roll: :roll:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/BattCtrlBoard2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18555&title=battctrlboard2&cat=872)
Here is the House battery voltage - both batteries are on a charger:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter_reading3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18554&title=v-meter-reading3&cat=872)
Here is the Starting battery voltage
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/872/V-Meter_reading1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18553&title=v-meter-reading1&cat=872)
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As I mentioned in the Get-together topic I lost my favorite anchor in Boca Grande due to my own stupidity. I marked the spot and maybe will retrieve it on the next trip. In the meantime I searched the world online for an exact replacement with no luck :cry: I walked into the same place that I bought it originally, Marine Surplus (although I bought it in their ebay store) and sure enough they still had one left - been there since I bought the original 6+ years ago. Long story short I bought it, negotiating the price down to within $15 of the price I paid back then. :D It's a Danforth Deep Set P-700 - hard to see on the shank but they're not made anymore. They make a Deep Set II but it's a fluke type.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2607.PNG)
I also decided to rig this one for retrieval in case it gets stuck so I bought an "Anchor Saver" rig (http://www.anchorsaver.com) and rigged it up this morning. It comes with 2 extra breakaway bolts and I bought 3 more extra.
If you look back through this topic you'll see the original anchor install and it was a tight fit then and now that I need to add the shackle up front, I needed to modify what I had done earlier so there was that extra 1/4" that it needed for the front shackle to clear. You can see it is still rather tight. What I did was cut the end off the aluminum piece I had put in to keep the rode from getting caught behind the "ears" that stick out of the pulpit - it didn't help anyway. So I cut the end off and screwed the sides into the pulpit. Hopefully that will help - we'll see.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2609.PNG)
Here's the inside of the pulpit now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2606.PNG)
So anyway, I added a shackle to the front eye and put temporary lacing on it. When I find some cheaper stainless lacing wire I'll get it - Worst Marine wants $18 a small roll. Sorry for the clarity.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2611.PNG)
I installed the Anchor Saver and connected it to the chain.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2612.PNG)
Buttoned it back up and secured the anchor in the keeper - ready to anchor up again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/Transformed_IMG_2613.PNG)
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Rick, you're definitely keeping the marine hardware companies in business! Looks good though, and love that new shiny stuff... :thumright:
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stainless steel lock wire at HFT.....$8
http://www.harborfreight.com/0041-inch- ... -8895.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/0041-inch-stainless-steel-lock-wire-1-lb-coil-8895.html)
:salut:
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Pete, glad it comes with the handy dispenser and belt clip!!! :lol: :lol:
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Pete, glad it comes with the handy dispenser and belt clip!!! :lol: :lol:
you never know!! :cheers:
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Holy :*:, I only need maybe 1/2 a foot? But I will visit there tomorrow, thanks Pete :salut:
Might as well pick up this http://www.harborfreight.com/retrieving-magnet-250-lb-pull-36905.html to find my old anchor :idea:
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Rick if you are not in a hurry, pm your address and I will send you some .042 aircraft safety wire... I will be by the hangar tomorrow night..
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Thanks Dave - really appreciate that offer. Would cost more in postage and time than it would be for me to run to the local HF and buy that roll. I appreciate it and if my local HF doesn't have it I'll let you know.
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Standing by, you'd be surprised what will fit in a calander mailer... :wink:
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Rick, you guys have a HF local in Sarasota?
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SARASOTA FL #144
3532 CLARK ROAD
SARASOTA, FL 34231
Phone: 941-929-9464
Store hours:
MON-SAT 8:00AM-9:00PM
SUN 9:00AM-6:00PM
Harbor freight tools in Sarasota,
the wire is also handy as a wire chase,I used it when I de-rigged and re-re-rigged my t top,I left the wire in the legs so I couid "easily" pul the wires back through :salut:
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Rick, you answered a thread I started and left this link. Crazy as I am at times, I'm not sure I viewed the link before but your Explorer is definitely beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
James H
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Thanks, she's ready to rock 8)
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So I don't lose the info - the original engine has a Quicksilver Mirage prop # 48-18278. It's a 15 1/2" 17P prop.
All the # are Quicksilver 48 18278 A41 17P