General Aquasport Forums > Wells Fiberglass LLC

New Vendor - Wells Fiberglass LLC

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RickK:
Welcome Jim Wells and son Jimmy to our site.
They specialize in gutters and hatch lids, which until now, we've tried to make ourselves (my attempt failed to seal). Jim has many rebuilds and recreations to his name, is also a valued member here and could be a valuable asset for answering questions for us.

DAYTRIP:
Thanks Rick! I will post some content on here soon. To the members I am am happy to both supply you with hatch and gutters or guide you thru the process of making them if you want to take a swing at it. I developed these for my own projects and the current molds are the 4th generation. These were made from plugs that were cnc cut from a block of melamine then faired to a 2000 grit finish.

They do save a ton of work and they seal very well. I love boat projects and as a south Florida native I love aquasports having grown up on them.

mshugg:
Are these the same hatches thatJoel at Gulfstream Composites used to sell?

DAYTRIP:
They are. We supplied Joel from the time he opened till he closed. I have seen your project. Came out great

DAYTRIP:
This is a 22-2 that we recently did a deck for. This is a friend’s boat that had a new deck installed incorrectly unfortunately. Coosa was used and no glass was done on underside. We replaced the deck with Airex T92.100. I have used a lot of foam cores and the Airex is nice to work with together with good properties. I prefer plywood as a core because you gain strength from the core were as foam and coosa cores add very little to the section properties.

First thing we did after demo was level the hull side to side at the chine in the stern and forward 12’. I do it in two locations as the hulls will twist. On my bertram I had 2” of twist in 12’ when it was first blocked up so it needs to be checked and it is easy with a water level. On this 222 it had no twist though.  Next we set a 12’ straight edge on the stringers to find the high and low points. We then leveled to the high points to avoid massive grinding. In the low areas we used plastic shims that are 1/16” to identify how much of an issue we had to fill or deal with. Again the lowest area was in the stern where the stringers taper down about 3/4”. In the other areas we mark the number of shims required so that when it gets epoxied down we can place the correct number in the correct spot



We fabricated the deck panels out of the boat. Made sheets 12’x8’ by glueing the Airex together then glassing both sides with two skins of 1700.

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From there we measured the deck width every foot from the transom then laid that out on the panels so that we could cut them. We were able to get the aft 12’ in the boat without removing the cap which was nice!

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