84 Morse Controls (hydro)

[seabob4]

Don't see too many of these around anymore...

[dburr]

Well, here's the bleeder fitting in all it's glory...



 :x

Chris the picture leads me to beleave that the end with the chamfer is the seat for the bleeder, is that correct and can you see a brass/hard plastics seat still in the hole for the bleeder? That looks like a relatively easy piece to make from an appropriately sized machine screw, with some carefully drilled holes..

[Whitewater]

Don't see too many of these around anymore...

You know looking at the pictures it really looks like hell with that rust don't it!

Yeah I was not too happy with Marc's solution but he did give it a try with what capabilities and resources he has.  It's a 28 year old piston from a company that has been bought out for a long period of time.  He mentioned that they didn't even have mechanical drawings around to get the dimensions of the screw to suggest a viable replacement.


Bob THANK YOU for posting the pictures!  It's worth a thousand words just as they say


Chris

[Whitewater]

Hi Dave,

Unfortunately I can't see in the hole on this one.  It is under the piston and only leaves about 6 inches to get between the livewell cover and the piston. the shiny end with the hole on the side of the screw (the top of the picture) is the end that sets into the tap on the piston.  The rusty side on the bottom is the exposed side that the fluid is expelled from.

You know if I had the time to learn how to machine a screw I would go out and buy a "insert explative here" lathe and make one myself LOL!

C

[Whitewater]

Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy.  You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up.  Just a thought
Marc

So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ?  Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll?  Okay have to stop saying nipple...

does that follow your train of thought?

[seabob4]

So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ?  Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll?  Okay have to stop saying nipple...

does that follow your train of thought?

[flounderpounder225]

Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy.  You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up.  Just a thought
Marc

So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ?  Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll?  Okay have to stop saying nipple...

does that follow your train of thought?

This is exactly what I am thinking, it replaces the entire bleeder, you would have to disassemble the ram because of the shavings caused by drilling the existing hole out.  But this would solve your problem
http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html

[seabob4]

I like Marc's idea.  Granted, there is disassembly, which could get a bit sticky, but it will be the fix...

[Whitewater]

Chris,
Have you thought of "adapting" out of the existing port, and then installing a newer bleeder assy.  You said one of the prts has a broken fitting in it? if the other hole has good threads, a local hyd shop might be able to make a suggestion, by matching up the thread pitch for a female adapter, then inserting some type of bleeder instead of the style you currently have set up.  Just a thought
Marc

So you are thinking a close nipple to a bleeder cap ?  Like a water shut off valve set up? do they make a nipple that smalll?  Okay have to stop saying nipple...

does that follow your train of thought?

This is exactly what I am thinking, it replaces the entire bleeder, you would have to disassemble the ram because of the shavings caused by drilling the existing hole out.  But this would solve your problem
http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html

I may not have to drill out the other one.... I intend to give the easy out route a try first... easy out LOL!!  Yeah like this part is ever easy !!  If I can get that done and adapt this out then I would have to disassemble nothing. Do I capiche you correctly?

Bob it is nice to see I am not the only one that giggles over close nipples  

[dburr]

Chris that looks like almost the same type of bleeder screw as there is on some types of furnace burners..  If you have an old geezer plumbing and heating guy he may be a good source.  The young guys may not have seen enough to be able to help..


Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit.  It looks like the end of the bleeder slides up into a seat to make a seal.  If you can't find something to make the seat on the inside you may want to try  a correctly sized stainless machine screw with a washer and an o ring underneath the head.  If the diameter of the o ring is big enough you may get a good seal. The steering system is relatively low pressure (not 3000psi) and getting a seal should not be that hard.   Before I would go drilling out threads of just the o ring doesn't work, I would try putting a "flat" across the hole with a file to make a better seat for the o ring, you might have ORB fittings for the hoses, if you do, that's the idea.  In the ORB fitting, o ring squash makes the seal not threads..

If you can make an o ring seal, then bleading is easy, leave the screw loose and make a big mess till the air is out then tighten her up and go boating..  No need to drill out for a NIPPLE    if this works..

[Capt. Bob]

Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit.

There are many types/brands available and they're inexpensive.  
http://www.amazon.com/GRIP-Metric-Threa ... m_sbs_hi_1

It's a tool I use quite often.
I'm just sayin'.

Good luck.

[dburr]

Looks mighty suspicious!! Gotta know the thread size...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_21260012-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-21260012&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=21260012&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=%7Bkeyword%7D#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=21260012

[flounderpounder225]

it is going to Pipe Thread (NPT) probably 1/8 or 3/16, so you will not find a nut that will thread down on it correctly, but you could find a small brass pipe fitting that it will thread into, then you will know the NPT size to get the adapter in the same thread?

[dburr]

BE CAREFUL......  Because of the type of bleeder with the seat on the END it is unlikely that the thread is actually NPT (Taper), but is NPS (straight).  The pitch is the same, but the fit and type of seal is completely different.  Putting taper in straight will ruin the fit if it gets crammed in, putting straight in taper will leak like a ba$tard...

I've made that mistake more then once I am embarrassed to say...

[Whitewater]

Chris that looks like almost the same type of bleeder screw as there is on some types of furnace burners..  If you have an old geezer plumbing and heating guy he may be a good source.  The young guys may not have seen enough to be able to help..


Do you know the thread size? If not head to your local Ace hardware store and spend some time in the fastener section trying different nuts to get the right fit.  It looks like the end of the bleeder slides up into a seat to make a seal.  If you can't find something to make the seat on the inside you may want to try  a correctly sized stainless machine screw with a washer and an o ring underneath the head.  If the diameter of the o ring is big enough you may get a good seal. The steering system is relatively low pressure (not 3000psi) and getting a seal should not be that hard.   Before I would go drilling out threads of just the o ring doesn't work, I would try putting a "flat" across the hole with a file to make a better seat for the o ring, you might have ORB fittings for the hoses, if you do, that's the idea.  In the ORB fitting, o ring squash makes the seal not threads..

If you can make an o ring seal, then bleading is easy, leave the screw loose and make a big mess till the air is out then tighten her up and go boating..  No need to drill out for a NIPPLE    if this works..

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