Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: knagle on June 14, 2020, 09:08:28 AM
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So I was just planning on re-powering this boat for the summer, then start rebuild in the winter. But now I'am not sure. When we parked the boat 5 years ago the transom seamed solid, however I figured with its age I would eventually need to rebuild it. This spring we decided to Get it on the water the transom did not show any noticeable movement. We had an old merc 140 tower of power on it but it did not like all the sitting around it did, all the wires and cables rusted out the the pivot tube was rusted. So we started looking for a more modern motor where part would be easier to come by. Today I decided to clean out the old bolt holes and will them in. the wood was wet around the bolt holes but it all seemed to be there. I was thinking about using some Git-Rot to help preserve the transom for the summer (with the intentions of rebuilding the transom over the winter). When I drilled some holes on the cap the motor mount area and the left side(from back of boat had solid wood. However the right side after the rise was hollow at least in the very center of core, atleast 10" down I put a bore scope in and poked around It seems that the outer wood seems to still be intact but rotting. Now I am thinking fix the transom now dummie ( some one please tell me I am over reacting ). I am thinking about pouring the transom. I could also use some advise on raising the transom I was thinking about taking it to the top of the gunwale and cutting the inner glass to help with the cleaning process. At this moment I to not want to tackle the floor which is solid and the can of worms that comes with that.
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Here is a link to some pics.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PrDzAVfu65tA9gVo-3ORR6bCBHEDrnRU?usp=sharing
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" I could also use some advise on raising the transom I was thinking about taking it to the top of the gunwale and cutting the inner glass to help with the cleaning process. At this moment I to not want to tackle the floor which is solid and the can of worms that comes with that. '
Some of the questions I am pondering is will is be significantly useful to cut the in glass down to 3" from the floor or if I do not want to cut the floor would it be better to just leave the inner glass intact? Should I cut the back few inches of the floor and cut the inner glass further down? Would it be better to just pour to current transom height for now and tackle raising the transome over the winter?
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Not overreacting. I poured mine and am very happy with the results. Raised sides 3” or so. Check out my rebuild or pm me for details. If you’re not removing the deck it’s the way to go in my opinion.
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somethings I am wondering about. In all the videos I have watched people are using a grinder to cut top of transom. I went out to buy a respirator but of course with Covid-19 there are none to be found. With the amount of dust the grinder kicks up I am wondering If a sawzall would do the job without causing to much damage, by just cutting the top 3/4 to 1 inch of the transom off. I have seen some pics where the glass looks like it was cut with a saw. The other thing I am wondering is how bad would it be to only pour to the 20" line and fill the wings with would or thickened resin.
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Made the first cut used a sawsall , the inner glass is 1/2 inch thick WOW outer skin less than a 1/4 inch. I am glad I cut the top 1" off the cap was 3/4 of an inch no wonder the transom did not show signs of rot as thick as it is it might not even need any core.
pic
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sg6G8oF1P8H84uFT_643R8v0B_zaHeg8/view?usp=sharing
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Yup, the outer thickness is part of the hull. Then the transom core is glassed in and then the liner is glued in. The liner could be any thickness - usually this was sub'd out.
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What did you decide to do regarding the liner? Are you going to cut it back or just remove the core from the top? Curious to see another pour come together.
My only words of caution on the process:
1) be careful when you get to the bottom of your "excavation", it's easy to dig too hard an punch through.
2) when you get it clean, put a flashlight in the bilge then look down inside the transom to see if there are any light leaks. It would be a bummer to lose all of your resin into the bilge through a leak you didn't see!
3) pay attention to the expiration date on the resin. Mine was a 90 day shelf life, and it started crystallizing right after 90 days.
Good luck!
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Got the whole cap off last night that 1/2 of glass was a bear. So I do not think I will be cutting the inner liner back, I am now thinking that If I need to cut more I will cut the back . Going to start drilling in a bit. I did some test holes with a Forstner bit. The good wood is going to be a pain I think
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Started drilling! Most of the wood was still solid and it was a major pain to drill. So I decided to cut back glass Pics coming I will put them on the link I provided previously.
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Added pics
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PrDzAVfu65tA9gVo-3ORR6bCBHEDrnRU?usp=sharing
I was going to add pics to gallary but I can not figure it out. Is it not working?
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It's definitely a pain! I had good luck with a 1 1/4" Speedbor auger with 12" extension. It is self threading and helps your arm from doing all of the work. I ended up buying a corded D-handle drill from Harbor Freight for this (no way a battery drill was going to keep up) and it performed flawlessly.
You have probably already discovered this, but the auger tends to pack the wood chips downward. Running a chainsaw at low speed and plunging the bar straight down after augering lifts the chips out and clears out the loose bits that are still hanging on.
Mine was pretty much rotten throughout, but I can imagine it being much harder if there are portions of yours that are still solid. Then again, my transom had 31 holes drilled in it over the years by previous owners, so it's no great surprise it was toast.
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Pics of my helper
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200616_044058.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20330&title=helper&cat=500)
She would not touch the rotten wood with her hands. She did however get almost all of it removed from the inner Glass with those pliers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200616_044900.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20331&title=helper-i-27m-not-touching-that&cat=500)
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I am wondering what I should do about the de-laminated inner glass
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200615_201532.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20333&title=delams-port-side-inner-skin&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200615_201524.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20332&title=delams-starboard-side-inner-skin&cat=500)
Also the wood on the outer glass Is still glued real good it really does not want to come off, getting worried about messing up what is left of the outer glass.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200616_084048.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20334&title=outer-glass-wood-removal-is-a-pain&cat=500)
I am starting to think It would Be faster and maybe better to go ahead and cut the inner skin and a foot or so of the floor. Then re-glass the back from the inside. But Im not sure that the Inner skin Would be usefull at that point.
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That's interesting - mine did not have any glass between the plywood layers. You've got a bit of a pickle, having completely rotten areas right next to very solid areas.
Another member posted a method a few months back, but I can't find it anywhere.
He took a circular saw and cut the outer portion of the hull on the transom, leaving 2" or so as a flange around the edges, if I remember correctly. Cleaned out the rotten wood, cleaned the cut portion of hull, glassed it back in, then poured. With some portions of your plywood being solid, this may be a good bet.
Anybody remember seeing this?
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I was thinking about this project? page 3 or 4
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11003.45
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still looking at this one trying to see what he did
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4670.0
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If you're going to re-core from the inside you need to cut everything back 18" - floor, stringers, liner - if you can pop the cap loose about half way down the boat, you can prop it up on both sides of the boat and not cut that. If you take care doing it you can re-attach them and repair the cuts. You'll need 18" of work area to do the 6 laminations that are usual - 4", 8", 12" overlaps for a sturdy transom. If you want to save the liner that comes up over the inside of the transom you can do that and glue it back on the face, you can do that and save all the fairing work.
You should also think about adding a piece of PVC to compensate for the new low spot in the hull.
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
I wish I would have thought of this approach while I was doing my rebuild - now I have an inch or 2 of water in my bilge that I can't get rid f without sponging it out. :embar:
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Well I tried a few more tool to get the rest of the wood out, with no luck. I then did a bunch of research on the matter. In the back of my head I kept thinking about the seacast instruction for bad fiberglass or missing interline option 2 it is on page 7 of there instructions http://www.transomrepair.net/images/manual/SeacastManual_July_2011_WEB.pdf. I then got to thinking about how some of the videos I watched on transom repairs. Cut all but 2" of the back glass. So I measured the back glass it is 1/8 inch thick, which means I only need 1 1/2 Inches to tie new glass in (assuming I read everything right). So I plan to cut all but 2" of the back skin. clean the rest of the wood out and finish prep for pour. Then cut cheap plywood too the size and shape of the transom. for laying the new glass I have two Ideas
plan A: bevel the edges of the outer hull to 1 1/2 inches. use 3 layers of 1708 and follow the seacast directions. wet and attach wings to beveled area. reinforce the outer hull to pour.
Plan B: Use plywood Cutout of new transom shape coated with pva screw it to the outer hull or other wise brace it. Bevel edges of hull and Lay new glass and sand the edges. Then remove the plywood and brace new glass for pour.
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or for that matter I could just do a plywood transom at that point.
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If you do cut out the back panel of the transom, have you considered saving it and glassing it back in (prior to pouring)? This would allow you to get it clean inside, but would save you a LOT of faring. Just a thought... lots of ways to tackle this.
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So I decided to cut the back hull as I stated earlier leaving 2" all the way around. Now it appears that the bottom of the back transom glass is thicker than 1/4 of an inch which would require that I wrap the new glass around to the bottom of the boat. I am not sure if I want to do that. So I loosened the Gunwale and it appears the liner is glued to the hull. picks on the way. I read on one post that that it was only glued at the top 3 inches. I am kinda afraid to start cutting the liner for two reasons what if it is glued all the way down. Second, I am not sure how thick the liner is and it is flat against the outer skin of the boat I am afraid of cutting the outer skin by accident. any thought on this would help.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200619_164915.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20341&title=back&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200619_163728.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20339&title=back&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200619_163741.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20340&title=back&cat=500)
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I went ahead and cut the back out the glue was super strong. I had to chisel the sides and the floor had to come out in peices the glue was so strong that some of the fiberglass from the floor is still on the stringer. but it is out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200619_221717.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20344&title=floor-removed&cat=500)
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I should have just done this from the start, it was so much easier than trying to dig that old wood out from the top. The cutting is done thank God. Now time to grind and prep.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200620_100549.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20345&title=cutting-is-done&cat=500)
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There is going to be a lot of that "Wish i did that from the start" saying. Been there, done that, and still doing it. :embar:
Keep it up. Looking good!
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got it all cleaned up and doing the last few hundred wipe downs with acetone.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200625_180812.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20361&title=clean-up&cat=500)
I Sure hope I get a good bond with the poly? the glass was filled with these voids full of white powdery stuff. not sure what that is but it was all throughout the glass.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200625_100348.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20360&title=clean-up&cat=500)
In one spot I tried to get them all out but they went all the way to the last layer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200625_100341.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20359&title=clean-up&cat=500)
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Making good progress. Who knows what was going through the chopper gun back when it was made.