Slipaway repairs

[wingtime]

NICE WORK!    The plumbers putty is a great idea.  If you ever have to get back in there in the future it will be much easier to get the lid back up.  Mine is sealed with just a bead of silicone between the deck and lid.  So far it has been bone dry.   I do get a little condensation in there now and then.  I think if there was a way to increase airflow in the coffin the tanks would last much longer.   But then again 30 years isn't bad either.

[seabob4]

Very nice, Lewis!  And I have dealt with a lot worse wiring...  

[slvrlng]

The condensation worries me also, so I found a can of some stuff I used to sell and sprayed two coats on the exposed aluminum before I sealed it up. This stuff is called Amber Corrosion coating. It is used in interior automotive applications. It is like I coated the aluminum in beeswax. You can get it in a spray can and since that's what I had I used just about the whole can. You can barely tell anything is on there until you touch it. It will never truly totally dry, it just stays tacky. I called them and tech support said it is perfect for this application but the material is soluble in gas so as long as I don't have a leak everything is good.

This is her sitting in front of the mechanics shop. After I parked it I had 3 people pull over and say what a cool boat it was. That for me is the first time that has happened with this boat. I think my hat will still fit!!!!!        

 



Ran into a little weather on the way home.
Dang lightning was popping all around the truck!!

[fitz73222]

"I think if there was a way to increase airflow in the coffin the tanks would last much longer. But then again 30 years isn't bad either".

I know that everyone wants to eliminate the original vent system on the older hulls to "slicken up" the look but I really think there is some merit to the design. I would have to think a 30+ mph wind through those vents while running would create a lot of CFM under the deck to evaporate moisture. Conversely, a downpour while running would also had lots of moisture there also. But 80% of the time we are running in no rain conditions. The one blessing we have on the older designs is tank access. Once you eliminate that by putting a solid floor in on a rebuild; that tank is there forever until it fails and you have to destroy the rebuild by cutting the floor out to gain access. I dont think this would have been a big deal 10 years ago, but the fuels of the future will continue to reak havoc on marine fuel systems and who knows how long a tank will last on alcohol enhanced fuels; this is a relatively new issue that we really are unable to predict.

[seabob4]

Fitz,
I think it is beneficial for all builders, and re-builders, to allow relative ease for the removal of fuel tanks.  Yeah, one may have to remove a component or 2, but to actually have a removable hatch is the key.  If boats were used on roads, with a fuel tank area that was basically entirely open to the environment, then we wouldn't have to worry about such things...but they aren't.  If people used their boats as often as they used their cars, then we wouldn't have to worry about such things...but we don't.

Therein lies the conumdrum...

[gran398]

Great points all. First, the airflow...

Although am doing away with the bow vents, and the rear outflow...have made provisions to vent the bilge. The bottom of the large hatch will be left open to the bilge on the 22-2. Plenty of room for bucket storage on the bottom ledge, easy access....but just as important...bilge ventilation in the off-season, inside or under cover. Not nearly as good as constant airflow...but better than no flow at all. Can easily place a fan down there if desired.

And the point of a fuel cell hatch is well-taken...but at a high cost. The only way to do it would be to save the female portion of the deck....glass it back in like the huge hatch that is is...Then save/rebuild the old hatch, or if too far gone...take a "quickie-mold" from the old part and build a new hatch. Professionally installed...another 2K or more easily. Major labor factor? Digging out all of the old rotten plywood, then the recore....on both parts, male and female.

Guess its how far do you want to go? A professional or near professional rebuild...tank correctly installed with regard to moisture retention/dissipation....I'm thinking 30 years, with composite materials.

Nevertheless...a tank hatch would be ideal. Especially as stated, fuel quality now and yet to come. Certainly and regardless, hose access/removal should be planned on.

[gran398]

Fitz made a great point this afternoon...and is worth sharing.

Ethanol in gasoline has been around for only two years or so.

He reports a discussion involving internal breakdown of transfer components (pipe) as related to ethanol in gasoline.

And to the extent the transfer pipe was metal ...this directly relates to metal storage systems in boats (aluminum) versus polyethylene storage systems for ethanol-infused gasoline.

Here's the kicker per the study: The vegetable enzymes/bacteria in the ethanol attacked the metal.

Worst-case scenario but...we need to be aware.

Lew.... thanks for the short digression here.

[fitz73222]

One of my trade journals that deals with flow controls and fluid transfer at the industrial level had an article that talked about the rapid degrade and cracking of transfer pipes that process ethanol. It did not specify whether this was pure ethanol or E10. I suspect they were talking about pure ethanol. Apparently, an acidic bacteria grows in the ethanol and attacks steel pipes. This does not conclude that it would attack aluminum but it does make you wonder. In studies, they concluded that they are going to have to intoduce a biocide to help control the corrosion issue. When my rebuild project is launched in the next several years, I will insist on tank access and assume the added expense for that piece of mind.

[slvrlng]

I got the boat back from the motor guy. New stator, impeller, plugs, linkage cams, and now it runs great. The TTU I got from flounderpounder works great it will pick me and the motor up when I stand on the ventilation plate! Thanks Mark! Today I got the console screwed down and caulked, I also got the cooler seat screwed down as well. I knew the keel rollers were a little bad looking so I got a closer peek and holy crap they were toast! You have to remember I live in ATL and there aren't very many boat supply places around, so i started looking for replacements. No luck. I am going to order some on Tuesday and since I will be traveling this week for work I will have to put them on when I get back. After looking at the trailer I have also come to the conclusion that rather than waste money on rollers I am going to go ahead and put front bunks on it. If I put the bunks on I will only need 3 rollers at the back so I won't scrape with the prow when loading or unloading.
Check out the condition of these rollers.



Since the storm is headed this way for the next few days I decided to put the cover on it for the first time. So once again she is patiently waiting for me to get back and finish up. I built a couple of bows for the cover out of PVC and they really seemed to help with the water shedding.

[seabob4]

Lewis,
She looks great where she sits.  Take care this week, look forward to seeing some water shots!  And enjoy tomorrow, while you're at it!  

[pete]

sounds like you're making great progress Lewis,great job,those rollers look awful,whats holding the boat off the trailer now?

[slvrlng]

It actually has four bunks. They are all 2 x 6. The middle two are turned flat against the hull and the two outer ones are turned vertical at a slight angle to match the deadrise. The bow rests on the stop. I have two crossmembers that I can attach the risers for the forward bunks. It should make loads and unloads a piece of cake! I also have some really heavy duty galvanized guides that are too wide right now. they are welded so I'll have to get them cut and rewelded to the right width. Here is a question, how do you determine how wide they need to be. I am thinking measure the maximun width of the gunwales and add 2 inches. Does this sound about right?

[pete]

not sure about the width,may need to be a little wider than that,don't know how yours is,but mine is a little wider in the midships [nautical word use,triple word score] than it is in the stern [ditto] so if you base your guide measurement on just the stern width,you get the idea.the guides just help steer the boat on the trailer,a little wide is ok

[seabob4]

not sure about the width,may need to be a little wider than that,don't know how yours is,but mine is a little wider in the midships [nautical word use,triple word score] than it is in the stern [ditto] so if you base your guide measurement on just the stern width,you get the idea.the guides just help steer the boat on the trailer,a little wide is ok

Pete, what does athwartships get me?  Actually, I think some nautical words were made up by drunken sailors who couldn't "talk too good" in the first place...

[pete]

thats a good one Bob,thats the distance between the amidships,or the beam as we say!crazy sailor talk,must be from all that rum
yes,I looked it up!