Attention: Have 2 pages to see today

Author Topic: Rickk's Windlass Install  (Read 9907 times)

December 11, 2011, 07:52:20 PM
Reply #30

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 08:46:56 PM
Reply #31

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #31 on: December 21, 2011, 08:46:56 PM »
Started the windlass install a few days ago. 
Bought 2-25' #4 cables with 1/4" ends installed.  Pulled those down the stbd side of the liner (I know there is a rigging tube somewhere there but I can't find it).




The liner in the cabin allows for the cables to tuck behind it above the side ledge and I ran the cables all the way to the front by the anchor "locker" which ends up being just a 3/4" ply bulkhead going across the front of the cabin behind the liner.  Looks like just enough cable.

I also pulled a 3 wire cable from the anchor locker to the dash area.  I cut a switch spot into the dash and mounted a switch and connected it to the wire I pulled from the anchor locker - 1 down, 2 to go.
Here are the "ugly pics" that I promised of the wiring under the overhead panels.  I guess someone could have slid all the extra to the starboard and tossed it in the trough where the other mess is...


Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 08:50:13 PM
Reply #32

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #32 on: December 21, 2011, 08:50:13 PM »
I needed to figure out where to mount the circuit breaker and the "contactor".  The breaker should be close to the batteries but the contactor can be anywhere. 
I don't have any room on my power control board for the breaker.

So I stuck a couple layers of wood to the hull right beside where the power control board is mounted and mounted it there.
[Future Pic]

The breaker is designed to recess mount so I needed to come up with something for it to recess into.
I have a few little plastic boxes from electronic projects a couple decades ago and think it is time to repurpose them for this project.
Drill a couple holes in one end to allow the positive in and out


Breaker mounted to the front plate of the box


Back of breaker


Needed to make a cable from switched power to the breaker






On the box
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 08:52:57 PM
Reply #33

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #33 on: December 21, 2011, 08:52:57 PM »
I also mounted the contactor inside one of the boxes and then added 2 terminal blocks for the switches to tie into. 








Buttoned up and the switches attached to the terminal blocks


Power applied and smaller wires out to the windlass.  I had to chase down some #8 crimps for the windlass wires and they already had the protection around the crimp.  I left the heat shrink on the wire that I had pre-cut although I didn't bother heating it up.


I decided to put a bunch of velcro on the back of this box and glue the mate on the cabin bulkhead way up out of sight.  There is no way I can mount this with a screw - I'd have to be a slinky to get up where I want to install it.  I think I can barely get the velcro up there.
This pic is from laying on my back looking up to starboard at the anchor bulkhead.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 08:54:32 PM
Reply #34

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #34 on: December 21, 2011, 08:54:32 PM »
As DT pointed out, there is a need to have an extra switch by the locker in the cabin (thanks for that tip DT) and again it is supposed to recess into something - no way to recess it into the bulkhead.  So another plastic box is repurposed for that switch but at least I can screw that one to the bulkhead.




Ready for the windlass...
Holes drilled and jig sawed


When I measured I found that I had 2 layers to drill through - the pulpit and the cap of the boat and then there is a 3/4 to 1" gap between them.  I got a pic of what I had to do to fasten the windlass down.
I had to put the washers and nuts between the layers and make sure the bolts went right through the lower layer.  So I only was able to bolt to the pulpit, not really the thickness they recommend but hey - no other way that I could figure out...




Here are the bolts coming through the lower cap.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 08:55:45 PM
Reply #35

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #35 on: December 21, 2011, 08:55:45 PM »
The plywood had a huge void in it - I mixed up some resin and cabosil and filled it all up - found a bunch of it had dripped through the holes and hardened on the anchor rope. DOH!!


This is from inside the locker looking up after the windlass is mounted.


Windlass finally mounted


I had to wait another day for the remote switch to arrive


Mounted the connector and wired it to the contactor (wiring instructions were backwards)


Last thing to do was learn how to splice a rope to chain.  Google was my friend - watched a couple videos a few times and then 5 minutes later I had a nice tapered splice.


Fired up the battery (starting battery as stated earlier) and tested the helm switch - check.  Tested the lower switch in the cabin - check and then tested the remote at the front - that's when I found that the directions in the manual had the 2 buttons reversed.  No biggie, 10 minutes and it was working correctly.
Final look at the finished product in the cabin.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 21, 2011, 09:24:04 PM
Reply #36

slvrlng

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 1817
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #36 on: December 21, 2011, 09:24:04 PM »
WOW Rick!!!! When you decide to post some pics you really post some pics!!!!! :thumleft:

Awesome job! I think you're going to love having it on the boat!
Lewis
       1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
       1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
      

December 21, 2011, 10:20:25 PM
Reply #37

pete

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 1420
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #37 on: December 21, 2011, 10:20:25 PM »
Nice job Rick!Like the rope splicing,that is hard to do right! :salut:
2003  Osprey 225
Palm Bay FL

December 21, 2011, 11:14:11 PM
Reply #38

wingtime

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 3581
    • http://50newtmotorclub.shutterfly.com/
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #38 on: December 21, 2011, 11:14:11 PM »
Nice splice to the chain...  good job melting the ends too!
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

December 22, 2011, 01:33:03 AM
Reply #39

Double Trouble

  • Information Offline
  • NorthEast
  • Posts: 307
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #39 on: December 22, 2011, 01:33:03 AM »
Nice install Rick did you use a backing plate under the windless?

December 22, 2011, 05:24:41 AM
Reply #40

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #40 on: December 22, 2011, 05:24:41 AM »
The bow pulpit is installed over the anchor locker that is built into the cap and there is about an inch gap between the two with part of the gap being the gutter around the anchor locker. It was weird - no matter where I moved the windlass either the front or the back bolts landed in a gutter.
Putting a block below the 2nd layer might be an option but I still had to tighten the washer & nuts to the upper layer, between the layers.
If the gutter wasn't there it would have been a piece of cake to back it.

I just have to remember not to try to lift the boat by the windlass and it should be fine.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 22, 2011, 05:43:45 AM
Reply #41

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #41 on: December 22, 2011, 05:43:45 AM »
Thanks guys.
Quote from: "pete"
Like the rope splicing,that is hard to do right! :salut:
I thought the splice would be difficult but once I got started it was done in minutes.
Actually it took longer to heat the knife than it did to do the splice. "Over one and under the next, twist and repeat".  
Good video here on how to make an eye splice http://www.veoh.com/watch/v3795955NBH2q5W6
After watching that and a couple others on the same site I went here to get more specific and it made sense http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 22, 2011, 05:51:56 AM
Reply #42

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #42 on: December 22, 2011, 05:51:56 AM »
Quote from: "slvrlng"
I think you're going to love having it on the boat!
I hope my wife likes the effort - it was really for her.
I like the operation of the windlass.  When you let out line the gypsy turns and a pin on it hits somewhere on the windlass, stopping the cover of the gypsy and making it actually "unscrew itself", widening the gap in betwen the teeth of the gypsy.  It gets out so far (maybe 3 secs) and then the gypsy goes into free fall - very nice.  Took someone awhile to figure that out I'm sure.
When you raise the anchor, the gypsy cover turns the other way and the pin hits again holding the cover and making the gypsy tighten itself until it squeezes down on the line and starts reeling it in.  Sweet set up.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 22, 2011, 08:20:44 PM
Reply #43

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #43 on: December 22, 2011, 08:20:44 PM »
Quote from: "Double Trouble"
Nice install Rick did you use a backing plate under the windless?
I answered this in a different post but I do want to apologize for saying Marc gave me the tip when it was in fact you - Sorry - I changed the posts to reflect the real "tipper".
Merry Christmas to all.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 14, 2012, 08:04:49 PM
Reply #44

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11065
Re: boatersland.com sale...AND Windlass Install
« Reply #44 on: March 14, 2012, 08:04:49 PM »
Haven't used the windlass since putting it in (only used the boat once  :oops: )
Have a little time off the next 2 days - I'm going to see if I can put a piece of alum across where the aft bolts come through the actual cap to beef it up.  Not the ideal but it'll have to do since it would be almost impossible to add it between the pulpit and the cap.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal