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Author Topic: Alexseal dropped the ball at every opportunity, need paint recommendations.  (Read 512 times)

May 18, 2020, 04:23:58 PM
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theFunsmith

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I began contacting Alexseal and a local-ish distributor both on April 8th. It took something like 4 calls and 3 emails to Alexseal representatives, and the same number to Fisheries supply in Seattle, over a 5 week period to get a stupid color card. Try to place an order today and nobody has any of the catalyst in stock. I know we are in unique times, but my patience is up.

I am looking for recommendations for other diy paints for my hull. I prefer a roll-able if possible. I will not be mooring the boat for any duration longer than a couple of days if that helps. Thank you in advance gents.



May 18, 2020, 06:33:32 PM
Reply #1

RickK

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This is what I used on my hull sides http://quantumpaint.com/
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 19, 2020, 01:10:52 PM
Reply #2

theFunsmith

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This is what I used on my hull sides http://quantumpaint.com/

I'll give it a look today. Thank you.

May 19, 2020, 02:05:45 PM
Reply #3

theFunsmith

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The quantum repeatedly said not for use below the waterline. Starting to lean toward the interlux perfection with the epoxy primer. Anybody had any experience with it?

May 20, 2020, 06:41:26 AM
Reply #4

RickK

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I sprayed Interlux VC Performance epoxy based paint on the bottom and up the side to a few inches above the waterline and then sprayed the quantum on the sides down to the chine.  My boat lives on a trailer so it doesn't stay wet for more than a day. It's fine for that.
Here is where I start spraying the VC on the bottom and then the next page or two is painting the sides.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg132787#msg132787
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 20, 2020, 08:18:04 AM
Reply #5

mshugg

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Quantum told me that their paint would be fine for up to a week, as long as it’s ringed well after.  But, in the end, I decided to use the VC Performance Epoxy (rolled) From the chines down. 

Lots of high end rebuilds use nothing but 2 part polyurethane Bottom and topsides with good results.  I think the paint manufacturers are conservative because they don’t want anyone to misuse their product and badmouth it.

May 20, 2020, 09:25:24 AM
Reply #6

RickK

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That's what I was told too.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 20, 2020, 05:14:51 PM
Reply #7

theFunsmith

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Sounds like a winner. Thank you guys.

May 20, 2020, 06:16:16 PM
Reply #8

RickK

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If you go the route I did with the VC Performance and the Quantum, you'll be happier spraying it on.  Use a cheap harbor freight gun and don't waste your money on more expensive ones, like I did. Spray the VC up the hull sides a few inches above your waterline (I launched my boat after getting the inside floor/guts done plus had mounted the center portion of the motor on, to get an idea where the water line was. Made some marks and came up 2" more (about 6" in the aft). The VC performance is pretty hard stuff when dry. If you roll it on, there might be an advantage due to the stiple that will make it slicker than what I did sanding it all down. Mine is really slick though. The stiple might make the water cause bubbles that get you up higher in the water when underway.
(I tried to find a pic that showed the epoxy paint line under the Quantum paint but couldn't find one - it is pretty obvious to a rebuilder. I know my bottom is sealed for sure (there is like 3 or 4 coats of primer and a couple coats of the VC).
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 

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