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Author Topic: 1985 SportCraft Fisherman CC 20' rebuild  (Read 498 times)

April 09, 2020, 04:39:13 PM
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RonRadio

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1985 SportCraft Fisherman CC 20' rebuild
« on: April 09, 2020, 04:39:13 PM »
This boat came with a Suzuki 115 hp 4 Stroke / Stainless Marine bracket... The transom, stringers are rotted out.... This is my 1st rebuild, have time during the covi-19 madness!!! Couldn't resize photo for post, see my gallery

April 09, 2020, 06:47:55 PM
Reply #1

RickK

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Re: 1985 SportCraft Fisherman CC 20' rebuild
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2020, 06:47:55 PM »
Ron, I moved your pics into "your" photo gallery. Use these instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them - you are limited by file size. Uploading them into your personal gallery is better for viewing.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.

BTW, I went in and edited your pics to turn them to show properly, I'll post the first one.  We're here for you if you need it.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 25, 2020, 06:58:35 AM
Reply #2

RonRadio

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Transom layup questions
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2020, 06:58:35 AM »
Hello, 1st time rebuild ,questions on fiberglass material layup... I acquired some Marine plywood okoume bs1088..  My fishing friend gave me 20 yards of 1.5oz csm and 10 yards 24oz woven roving .. I'm planning on using epoxy for transom /stringers..  I have not purchased epoxy resin / additional fiberglass from my local supplier yet..... It's a full transom that will be hanging a stainless bracket / Suzuki 115 4stroke..... I've got to fill the large holes in the skin, reinforce, 2 layers of Marine plywood?, then cap plywood with layup of glass, planning on tying in stringers to transom with some good size braces as was the factory setup..... Looking for suggestions on a layup schedule / methods/ tips, etc....thanks, Ron (attempting rickk posting instructions)


EDIT ADMIN: You almost had it. You select each picture in your gallery and then copy the code in the "Linked Image" field to the right.  Looked like you copied most of it but not all of it.

April 25, 2020, 07:06:16 AM
Reply #3

RonRadio

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2020, 07:06:16 AM »
My photo link is there, but doesn't open up automatically?? Damn amateurs!!!

April 25, 2020, 07:28:34 AM
Reply #4

RickK

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2020, 07:28:34 AM »
Try it again. Don't forget you have started a rebuild thread here https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15371.0  I would just ask your questions in that thread.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 25, 2020, 08:14:18 AM
Reply #5

mshugg

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2020, 08:14:18 AM »
Is that bondo on your inner transom?  Or just the color of the glass?

As for the transom layup.  If you’re using epoxy, the mat (CSM) your friend gave you will be of limited use.  You can use it to increase bond between layers.  You can also use it as a surfacing layer to make fairing easier, but epoxy won’t dissolve the styrene binder in the CSM, so it won’t conform to bends and curves well at all. 

The 24 oz roving is old school.  It’s the kind os structural glass your boat was built with, but it’s hard to wet out, stiff, requires a lot of resin, and not as strong as newer materials.  So, here’s what I recommend: lay Two to three layers of 1708 biax into our existing outer skin. Then a layer of CSM, thickened epoxy, and then your transom core.  When that’s cured, finish off with three to four Layers of 1708, sized to overlap into the hull sides, 12”, 8”, and 4” . 

There are many variations of this, but this is the general idea, and there are lots of examples in the build threads here on CAS.  Anytime Epoxy cures longer than 24 hours, you need to sand it in order to get a good bond.  A good rule of thumb would be, if you can‘T dent it with a thumbnailL, you need to sand.

April 25, 2020, 08:41:05 AM
Reply #6

RonRadio

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2020, 08:41:05 AM »
That is the color of the glass, no Bondo.... Sounds like modern 1708 is much easier to use , less resin, easier for newbie, etc.... Thanks..  question for rickk can this thread be moved to rebuild ?


April 25, 2020, 10:28:27 AM
Reply #7

RickK

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2020, 10:28:27 AM »
I can merge the two threads. Will that work for you?
As for the 1708, it doesn't like bends very much either. Using fillets (thickened resin) in corners or to round things out, helps conform 1798. 1708 is a pretty common cloth used but there are times that 12oz is good and sometime 18oz is good.
You can get a couple types of 17oz cloth. One with CSM sewn in and one without. Some are straight stitch, some are at a 45 and some at 90 degrees. Research the cloth online or at your supplier. US Composites online has good images of the types of cloth.

Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 25, 2020, 05:37:53 PM
Reply #8

RonRadio

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Re: Transom layup questions
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2020, 05:37:53 PM »
It works for me, thanks...... I'll be studying fiberglass, covi-19 or not!!!!

 

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