Note: I did a complete trailer brake rebuild including lines; I did this because the old lines were cut ... LET ME SAY THAT AGAIN! The old lines were cut but the original owner and he left the lines in places so it can pass inspection.
Here are my old drums:
Removing the drums is simple; remove the dust cover, then the cotter pin, then the castle nut, the nut, shake and the drum comes off.
Removing the backing plate is easy as well just use an impact gun and zip them off.
I bought new galvanized backing plate and brakes as a complete set.
Note which ones are Right Hand (RH-Passenger Side) and Left Hand (LH-Drivers side).
Here is how they look mounted (another thing to remember the bigger shoe faces the back of the trailer):
Mine came with these green protectors that was on the wheel cylinder; I removed one when I connected the lines and repurposed it to before connecting the hose. This was a two day job because I need to replace the lines so I did not want to have dirt or water get into the system.
On the back of the plate between the brakes are tabs that should be lubed:
I also lube the spindle:
Here is one of the tabs lubed ... you can pull on the shoes to give you room then use a screw driver to put it on the tab:
Don't forget to lube the adjuster:
Another tab with lube:
Pack the bearings with lube and put the rear bearing in with the bearing retainer. Pack the front bearing and mount the drum then tighten up and back off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn this will pre-load and then load the bearings. Remember, the drum rides on the bearings and the bearings need to have play for the drum to spin.
Don't forget new cotter pin.
When all done put the drum back on and you are done.
