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Author Topic: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)  (Read 2643 times)

November 09, 2014, 05:17:53 PM
Reply #15

RickK

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2014, 05:17:53 PM »
Progress is a good thing  :salut:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

November 09, 2014, 06:55:27 PM
Reply #16

Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2014, 06:55:27 PM »
Ouch, I feel you there and boy does that bring by memories (nightmares). Keep at it.

You doing it Tampa style with full transom or just a 25" with jack plate?  Either way it will look hot. Since your in there, might do it all at one shot. Little more up front but cheaper on the back side.

November 09, 2014, 08:28:46 PM
Reply #17

avidskier

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #17 on: November 09, 2014, 08:28:46 PM »
Not sure what "tampa style" means  :?: but a full transom I assume is to the top edge without the cutout for the motor, right?
I'd like to keep the full transom (less water in) and if I find a relatively inexpensive one, add a transom bracket.
This will be at a much later stage of the rebuild. If I decide later to keep the motor mounted as it was, I will cut transom and re-glass it. I really want the bracket that juts out and gives the boat a completely different style.
As always, $ and time are hard to come by  :( . It'd be great if you guys can send a prayer to the boat gods for me to make this a smooth a steady re-build and one which would have my new and improved osprey back in the water by next summer.  :cheers:

November 09, 2014, 09:15:09 PM
Reply #18

Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #18 on: November 09, 2014, 09:15:09 PM »
That as Grand puts it is Tampa style, full transom with bracket be it Armstrong type or Porta.

As for prayers, they are on the way, just take your time, plan, look, plan, measure 15xs then do it. At least that works for me as I figure some other way to make it better then go and screw it up..... :shock:



 :mrgreen:

November 10, 2014, 09:01:54 AM
Reply #19

avidskier

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #19 on: November 10, 2014, 09:01:54 AM »
Thank You sir!
I will keep you all posted with progress.

November 10, 2014, 12:14:13 PM
Reply #20

gran398

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #20 on: November 10, 2014, 12:14:13 PM »
Kevin, the only thing "Grand" about me is my gut :mrgreen:

November 10, 2014, 01:08:31 PM
Reply #21

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #21 on: November 10, 2014, 01:08:31 PM »
Quote from: "gran398"
Kevin, the only thing "Grand" about me is my gut :mrgreen:

Well Gran, the "d" could be construed as a fair visual representation as if you were overlooking your moniker . Maybe that's what the member formerly known as Aqua86 was trying to imply????? :scratch:

It's a slow day at the salt mine. :mrgreen:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

November 10, 2014, 02:45:38 PM
Reply #22

gran398

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #22 on: November 10, 2014, 02:45:38 PM »
Good to have a smile brought to my face CB! :lol:

Slow here too....so thanks, have a great week my friend :thumright:

November 11, 2014, 12:18:00 AM
Reply #23

Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #23 on: November 11, 2014, 12:18:00 AM »
D could also mean Dementia as well  :shock:



Or for Mr Dickel  :mrgreen:

November 11, 2014, 12:34:08 AM
Reply #24

gran398

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2014, 12:34:08 AM »
Or ....

DORGE Jickel :wink:

November 29, 2014, 12:33:30 PM
Reply #25

avidskier

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #25 on: November 29, 2014, 12:33:30 PM »
Update and question:

Started working on parts of the motor. Thought about rebuilding carbs as I got my hands on a shop manual but after taking the air silencer cover off the intake manifold, I was happy to see that the carbs are super clean and look brand new.
There are a couple of issues I ran into and you can see from the photos:
1. The fuel primer solenoid wire is stripped and I can't mend because it's too close to the actual unit. The solenoid is fairly inexpensive so I don't have a problem replacing this.



2. The bigger problem is the wiring coming out of the fuel pump. The three wires are also frayed and also too close to the actual unit to mend. Problem is the pump works fine, at least it did last time the motor was on, and to replace I'm looking at $400 that I just don't have. Not sure what that top part with the wires is called but I'm pretty sure, at least from the research I've done, that this part is not sold separately. Any idea what I can do here?



Got the transom completely off, for the most part. I still need to do some grinding and some additional chipping away.
You will notice in one of these photos, that whoever did this transom last, built up (with "peanut butter") between the outer skin of the boat and the wood part of the transom. While trying to remove this "built up" part I damaged the outer skin and therefore my decision to remove.
You will also notice from the photos I got a little overzealous when cutting away the skin. On the right side I cut too close to the edge and ultimately didn't leave myself enough room for the new transom to sit in. The left side looks good (in my opinion.)
I'm actually pretty happy about the fact that the boat itself is still level.

Question:
1. I have enough of a lip on the left side, looking at the photos, for the new transom to sit in but the right side will be pretty much nonexistent. Any idea on how I can get new transom to sit in perfectly? Is this even something I should worry about as the left side will provide the structure I need to rebuild?




November 29, 2014, 11:05:38 PM
Reply #26

Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #26 on: November 29, 2014, 11:05:38 PM »
Check this thread out. http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/aquasport/index.php  It will answer a lot of your rebuild questions and helps a lot. Goes with the way I did my 72 22-2 and will be the way I do it on the 19-1 and my other boats when the time comes. Grind a taper in the glass on the inside. Put the dam up (After waxing it several times, then lay the glass on inside building the outer skin. This will make it easier to fair when you put 3 layers on the outside wrapping around the outside of the hull. Will be easy. I recommend that you put up a thin peace of door skin or the like, trace the outside around the hull then cut it out. Fit and trim until perfect. Much easier to trace from outside the trying to make it inside.

As for the wires, can you cut it down lower to give you room, put heat shrink over the exposed wired, the heat shirt butt connect back together?


Oh pull that garboard plug out so you have a clean obstruction free slate.

November 30, 2014, 10:52:42 AM
Reply #27

dburr

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #27 on: November 30, 2014, 10:52:42 AM »
With the taper ground on the inside of the hull, you have the chance to build a mould on the outside for the new skin for the stern.  Checkout CapKoz for mould building.  With suitable mould board for the stern, waxed well, there is no reason that you could not lay down gelcoat then glass as desired.  That might save a bunch of time fairing in the future.  Only drawback will be keeping the gel off the taper (scarph joint), a little time in the "thinking" chair will solve that problem..
 :salut:
Dave

88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590

December 01, 2014, 01:07:54 PM
Reply #28

Georgie

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #28 on: December 01, 2014, 01:07:54 PM »
Kevin posted a good link to follow.  However, I think there are two very important improvements you should consider.

1)  The tutorial says to build up your hull tabs starting with the shortest first, and moving to the longest last.  I wholeheartedly feel that is the opposite of what should be done for the following reason.  You want the first layer that is bonding the new transom to the existing hull to be continuous and as long as possible to increase the strength of that overall scarf bond.  Sequential 4" overlaps create joints in your tabbed connections where they meet the hull.  Now, the ONLY exception to this concept that I can think of is if you are afraid you might not get the resin mix 100% correct.  Then, having the other two layers to help support the bond to the original glass are an improvement over one continuous poor bond at the base of your lamination.
2) make sure your cloth is facing mat-side out when you do your first layer.  The mat bonds to your sanded scarf/taper better than the weave will b/c each individual fiberglass strand can separate a bit more from the 1708 cloth and work itself into the micro-grooves created by the sanding job as you work it over with the roller. (also, use extremely coarse grit when preparing the scarf so that the strength of the physical bond is maximized.)

Also, can't remember if you mentioned, but I would most certainly use vinylester resin rather than poly for this portion of the rebuild to take advantage of vinylester's stronger adhesive characteristics.  It's not as good an adhesive as epoxy, but it's definitely better than poly.

I think Dave is correct in that you should definitely spray a good, thick gelcoat layer on your waxed mdf backer before adding the glass.  Will probably save you many hours in gel-work.

Good luck!   :salut:
Ryan

1979 246 CCC

1987 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman

December 01, 2014, 01:38:37 PM
Reply #29

Georgie

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Re: 1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)
« Reply #29 on: December 01, 2014, 01:38:37 PM »
Quote
2. The bigger problem is the wiring coming out of the fuel pump. The three wires are also frayed and also too close to the actual unit to mend. Problem is the pump works fine, at least it did last time the motor was on, and to replace I'm looking at $400 that I just don't have. Not sure what that top part with the wires is called but I'm pretty sure, at least from the research I've done, that this part is not sold separately. Any idea what I can do here?

Yeah, $400 for a new one is pretty accurate.  If the VRO pump works fine, I would take the time to disassemble the amphenol plug (deutch brand I believe?) that ties the VRO pump into the main engine wiring harness.   Here's a video that helps (start at the 8:00 mark) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5QUJS_QOwM once that is done, you can just remove the black factory outer heat shrink tube that holds the three wires together, and slide new smaller diameter heat shrink tube over each individual wire and run it down all the way to deteriorated sections nearest the pump, and when that's done you can run another length of heat shrink over the entire section to bind it all back together, and reassemble the plug.  This probably goes without saying, but just be VERY VERY careful to make sure the different color wires goes back into the deutsch terminal in the same exact location.

The wire that connects your primer solenoid to the airbox frame is "just" a ground and will continue to function so long as the wire itself stays intact.  I wouldn't bother replacing the whole solenoid unless you really want to.  Either cut off the existing terminal so you can heat shrink this wire like the fuel pump wires and reattach after you've re-crimped another adhesive lined ring terminal, or just coat the exposed section with liquid electrical tape if you feel lazy (for me, it depends how much sleep I've had or how much I've had to drink. lol   :drunken: )
Ryan

1979 246 CCC

1987 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman

 

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