Classic AquaSport

Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: John G on November 19, 2020, 01:46:45 PM

Title: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 19, 2020, 01:46:45 PM
I picked up this 1973 19-6 last spring.  Used it over the summer and now it's in my garage in NH being torn apart.  Not exactly sure exactly what I'm doing to it yet.


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_20200607_154756.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21256&title=img-20200607-154756&cat=500)



(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201113_220340903.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21258&title=pxl-20201113-220340903&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201113_194421572_MP.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21257&title=pxl-20201113-194421572-mp&cat=500)
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 19, 2020, 01:51:15 PM

(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_004719830.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21272&title=pxl-20201119-004719830&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201118_234431032.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21263&title=pxl-20201118-234431032&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201118_234556887.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21264&title=pxl-20201118-234556887&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_003529125.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21267&title=pxl-20201119-003529125&cat=500)



Around the fuel tank.  Not sure if it's original.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_003800069.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21269&title=pxl-20201119-003800069&cat=500)
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 20, 2020, 07:48:52 AM
Here's a few photos from last nights progress.   How do I know if the tank is original or a replacement?  Not that it matters - just curious. It sits slightly off center.  The sides of the fuel tank were foamed in all around.  No smells coming from the bilge area or around the tank until I started removing foam.  The foam around the sides of the tank was almost candy-like where it was against the tank. About an 1/8" of dark tan, shiny and brittle.  Once I got some of that removed I got a slight gas smell.  Not sure if it's permeating from the tank or it was fuel spilled years ago trapped in the foam. The tank is pretty much empty so it shouldn't be leaking that high up.  Nothing seems wet except for water seeping from under the tank.  It's probably time for a new tank anyway.


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201120_012328317.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21276&title=pxl-20201120-012328317&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_225635717.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21275&title=pxl-20201119-225635717&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_225343974.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21273&title=pxl-20201119-225343974&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201119_225415985.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21274&title=pxl-20201119-225415985&cat=500)
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: McAllgeyver on November 20, 2020, 10:02:29 AM
Awesome looking oldie.  Glad you got to use that thing before tearing it apart.  Did you have that 85hp yamie on it?Also, can you measure and let me know what the distance from inside the the transom to the back of the gas tank is? Good luck with it. you have a lot of info here at Classicaquasport to help you along!
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 20, 2020, 10:20:36 AM
Awesome looking oldie.  Glad you got to use that thing before tearing it apart.  Did you have that 85hp yamie on it?Also, can you measure and let me know what the distance from inside the the transom to the back of the gas tank is? Good luck with it. you have a lot of info here at Classicaquasport to help you along!

Yes, the 85 Yamaha was on it.  Solid running motor except I just ripped it apart to replace the upper mounts (another thread).  It's undersized for this boat but that's what it came with and I haven't decided if I'm replacing it yet.  As I go along I keep adding to the list of things that I "need to do" vs. what I'd like to do.

I'll take a measurement on the tank tonight.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Capt. Bob on November 20, 2020, 02:23:25 PM
How do I know if the tank is original or a replacement?

Look for a build date on the label.
Might be by the address. :ScrChin:
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 20, 2020, 04:18:06 PM
How do I know if the tank is original or a replacement?

Look for a build date on the label.
Might be by the address. :ScrChin:

Unfortunately, the picture above is all I have. Half the decal is missing.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 21, 2020, 09:12:03 AM
I've spent hours and hours on here reading everyone's 196 rebuilds and I'm still a bit lost  :confused1:. Any chance someone could point me in the correct direction on how to cut the flooring out, and what prep should be done prior to cutting? I've been digging at foam around the tank for hours and think it would be easier to get the floor out of the way first.

Is everyone cutting the new flooring by hand?
I've got a 5x10 cnc router that could shortcut that process for me, but I'd have to somehow get the shape into the computer.
 Thanks!
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: mshugg on November 21, 2020, 03:04:24 PM
Most use a portable circular saw.  Set the blade depth to 3/4” +-, and cut around the perimeter.  If you make your cut counter clockwise, with the narrow side of the base plate toward the liner, you’ll be left with about 1 1/2” ledge around the outside.  Many just mount their new deck on top of that ledge raising the deck for better self bailing characteristics.  An oscillating multi tool will work will for curing the corners where you can’t reach with the circular saw.

As for the CNC router, I don’t see a real advantage.  Fiberglass just doesn’t require that much precision.  I cut my deck core with a jigsaw, and glassed the deck before dropping it into place.

One more thing, I recommend you look through all the build threads, not just the 196 threads.  There are a lot of great ideas in many of them.  Aquasport construction and engineering was pretty consistent across the line, so many of the techniques and shortcuts will apply to your boat too.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Tampa Bay Mike on November 21, 2020, 03:06:57 PM
 :iagree: He beat me to it. Good advice all around
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 21, 2020, 03:27:41 PM
Most use a portable circular saw.  Set the blade depth to 3/4” +-, and cut around the perimeter.  If you make your cut counter clockwise, with the narrow side of the base plate toward the liner, you’ll be left with about 1 1/2” ledge around the outside.

That's exactly what I'm doing, so I guess that I'm on the right track.  I ended up measuring and marking the stringers from the fuel tank hatch and cut up the sides of the stringers so I wouldn't cut into them. Photos to follow later.  Whatever they used to secure the deck to the tops of the stringers is like cement and not easy to remove.  I've been able to pop the decking from the adhesive in certain areas, but making a mess in other spots with the decking tearing apart.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Fish Head on November 21, 2020, 11:28:52 PM
I remember watching one of those episodes of ShipShape where they removed the solid deck and reattached it after stringer repairs. I thought great my deck is solid I will do the same thing. Wishful thinking. I had the same issues your having. Deck would not release from stringers. What a PIA. Had to make a bunch of cuts and piecemeal the deck out in 1ft by 2ft sections from the stringers. I feel your pain! Lol
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: wingnut on November 22, 2020, 08:57:43 AM
That greenish polyester leveling putty is a nightmare. Luckily is grinds easily (it is not very dense). If you have a power planer, that works well too for removing it once you get the deck off.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: RickK on November 22, 2020, 01:49:10 PM
The bonding putty they use when they set the liner in does it's job, for sure.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 23, 2020, 08:11:54 AM
Floor is out, tank is out. That bonding putty was a total nightmare to get the floor removed from it.  The stuff looks like concrete and is hard as concrete.  Smashing it with a hammer barely effects it.  I need to get it off so I can cut open larger holes in the stringers to remove foam.  So far the bottom 1" of foam in the stringers is wet in stern.  You can see where somebody cut a round access hatch in the floor just after the tank and they cut into the support.

I read that people were having a hard time with the tank being stuck to the foam underneath.  Mine was stuck also, so I put a block of wood against the stringer and a block of wood against the back corner of the tank, then used a crowbar to give it a little push.  It eventually popped.  Tank is in bad shape.  As I removed all the foam the smell of fuel was overwhelming.  I had my wood stove going and figured it might be time to open the garage door before the place blew up. I didn't see any leaks but the foam smelled like fuel and there is corrosion all over the tank.  The fuel fill hose had a dip in it before it went into the tank.  Not sure if that was intentional, but the hose was very soft in that low spot where fuel was sitting and I could squeeze it closed, even with the wire reinforcement wrapped inside it.  The new tank search is on!


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201122_231539529.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21304&title=pxl-20201122-231539529&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201122_231457335.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21303&title=pxl-20201122-231457335&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201122_225554048.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21302&title=pxl-20201122-225554048&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201122_224541364.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21301&title=pxl-20201122-224541364&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201122_211945205.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21300&title=pxl-20201122-211945205&cat=500)


Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Mwar410 on November 23, 2020, 12:05:38 PM
I think I used a chisel to get that bonding putty off, It wasn’t bad if I remember correctly.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Fishmore2013 on November 24, 2020, 02:46:15 PM
I just finished 1973 rebuild
Stringers transom deck I live in Connecticut
Email me if you have questions
Having motor mounted this week
Jon
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: RickK on November 24, 2020, 03:52:35 PM
Here is a link to a thread where the member compared different methods and grinding wheels https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15284.msg149476#msg149476
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: wingnut on November 24, 2020, 07:44:29 PM
Power planer works great on the stringer leveling putty if you have one, just be careful not to hit the stringers when you get the height most of the way taken down.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 25, 2020, 07:08:08 AM
I'm going to attack that putty on the stringers tonight with whatever tools I have in the shop and see what happens.  I also need to cut out the rotted tank coffin bottom.  The new tank search is not going very well.  I've got a few prices that range from $500 to $850 plus freight.  It seems even by reducing the gallons from 50 to 35 the cost is pretty much close to the same.  Being in the fabrication/installation business myself I do understand why, but I really don't want to spend that much on a fuel tank.  I don't plan on keeping this boat more than a few years before I upgrade, so I'm trying to keep the costs down as much as possible with still doing what needs to be done.

A question came up about the new tank being USCG certified.   Thoughts?
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: umecheme on November 25, 2020, 08:03:46 AM
I feel your pain on the tank.  I did the same search and for the long skinny tank I would need in my 19-1 without re-doing the stringers, the amount of welding needed kept the cost up around $800+ Freight.  Everyone on here will cringe, and maybe I will too later on, but I'm sticking with a 28 gallon under console tank (what the boat originally came with), and I'm going to install a smaller auxiliary tank (I'm not sure where) to try to get me up to 35 ish gallons.  I can buy a brand new 28 gallon above deck tank for $250.  I'll lose the space under the console, but the boat is a blank canvas, so I've got ideas for storage in other locations.  The other nice thing is not going under the deck, I can keep the deck almost completely sealed.  The only holes will be the conduit for the fuel, wires, and controls.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 27, 2020, 03:06:57 PM
I've spent a few hours today digging out foam from the stringers.  It's surprisingly dry except for the bottom 1/2" that is against the hull.  It smells like rotten eggs and fuel.  Aside from the factory rectangles and where I've cut with a sawzall, you can see where somebody cut a hatch in the deck and went right into the cross piece between the stringers. The question is - do I need to keep that part that goes across between the 2 stringers and also the lower section in the bilge area? I found some wood in the bottom of the cross piece and I think the only way to get it out is to remove all the glass, which I'm fine with, but does it need to go back in?  I'm also wondering if it would be easier to just to take a sawzall and cut the top and one entire side of a stringer out and then just glass everthing back in.  This digging out through holes takes forever!



(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201127_192256127.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21312&title=pxl-20201127-192256127&cat=500)


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201127_191024790.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21311&title=pxl-20201127-191024790&cat=500)
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: RickK on November 27, 2020, 04:54:18 PM
So if I understand the question, you want to cut out the cross stringer (entire or just the rear side of the cross member?) and the lower portion that spans the two lower inner stringers? I don't see any reason why not.  You'll lose some of the enclosure of the bulkhead stringer, so you'll have to add that back in.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on November 27, 2020, 05:08:50 PM
So if I understand the question, you want to cut out the cross stringer (entire or just the rear side of the cross member?) and the lower portion that spans the two lower inner stringers? I don't see any reason why not.  You'll lose some of the enclosure of the bulkhead stringer, so you'll have to add that back in.

Yeah, I wasn't very clear on what I was saying.    Basically I'm wondering what I can take out and leave out.  I'd rather not waste time digging out foam where parts can or will be cut out later.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: McAllgeyver on November 30, 2020, 10:59:08 AM
Cut it out! That stringer support in the transom was for an inboard if im not mistaken.  Think the same mold was used for both inboard and outboard.  Cut out all the middle section(bulkhead) and low stringers, and then just continue the left and right stringers to transom.
I cut the engine supports out and finished/fixed stringers on my 19-6
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image50.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13593&title=stringers-all-glassed&cat=500)
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: Tampa Bay Mike on November 30, 2020, 12:56:02 PM
Mine had no cross supports in it, just the two main stringers. Though I did add a bunch of bulkheads for the floor to sit on. For the stringers, I would be hesitant to cut the sides off too. Most just open up the tops, dig the foam out and then glass them back up.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: RickK on November 30, 2020, 06:33:38 PM
If you look at the entire boat: hull, stringers glassed to hull, liner all glassed and cored and then the liner bonded to the top of the stringers and transom and liner screwed to the hull sides at the top - all together it was a strong boat - all together. You must think of this as you rebuild it. Stringers alone will not make the boat strong, not the transom either, not the deck.... If you rebuild everything strong and then connect them all together, you'll have a strong new boat.
Title: Re: John's 1973 19-6 Rebuild
Post by: John G on December 01, 2020, 08:01:52 AM
Here's where I am so far.  All the foam is removed up to the casting deck and I just need to go in with a shop vac and scraper to suck out all the small bits here and there.  I filled 4 contractor size bags of foam.  Luckily the foam up front was not wet, but the bottom inch of foam from the tank all the way to the transom was soaked.  It smelled like rotten eggs and fuel.  The wood stove was cranked all weekend and I had fans blowing inside the stringers to dry things out.  Next step is to cut back the stringers for the transom work, dig out that soft glass & wood along the center of the hull and then grind the rest of the deck putty off the stringers.

I ended up finding a 30 gallon aluminum tank from RDS Aluminum for $386 shipped, so that's my plan for the tank.  I ran around last summer with (2) 6 gallon cans on the back, so putting a 30 gallon back in will be more than enough for me since we don't go far.  The boat is kept on a mooring and the fuel dock is pretty far away, so I typically drag cans of fuel out on a dingy with me anyway.


(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PXL_20201128_235929832.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21345&title=pxl-20201128-235929832&cat=500)
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