One thing I will admit is that the docs are a little unclear on the parts you get with the windlass. They mention a "contactor" but it's unclear if it is for the 1000 only or both. The electrical drawings show it on the 1000 model. Could just be generic.Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)
Quote from: "RickK"Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)Rick,When you wake me up after watching that vid...
Hey SB, here is a video on installing the windlass and they parallel up 6ga. Is that common in your line of work? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K79s6BJfT30 (forgot the link)
No, doubling up on a wire run is NOT common in marine electricals! If the voltage drop is such that a heavier gauge cable is needed, then that's what you use. Period. On windlass installs where the batt is in a center console, I use 4GA. When the batt is in the stern, I use 2GA.A good example of overkill? The ProSports 28 cat I just worked on? Batt in the stern, whoever installed the windlass used 2/0! Shouldn't have any voltage drop issues there!!!
Hi DT,Hope you had a good Thanksgiving. Did you do the install? What gauge cable did you use?So that confirms that the 700 doesn't come with a contactor?What kind of switch did you use up front? Foot? How did you mount it and where? Any pics?Which battery did you tie into? House or starting? I saw somewhere that they avoided tieing into the house because of the spikes on the electronics.It seems that it would be ok to tie into the starting battery and only use the windless after the engine is started.For my 230, I have no clue where I'm going to run the cables through the cabin.Appreciate it.Here is a pic of the schematic with a contactor (pro 1000) - seems that with the contactor you run your heavy cable to the contactor and then can run light wires from the controls. Am I reading this right?
Thanks for the info DT.What kind of switch comes with 700 - the "guarded rocker"? Is it waterproof - could it handle being out in the elements at the windlass location?Good idea about another down in the cabin.I'm still thinking the contactor may be the ticket to connecting multiple switches without splicing. Maybe a terminal block would work too?I also need to learn how to splice a chain to rope - mine are the typical shackles & turnbuckles. http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
DT pointed out a common problem with windlasses and smallish anchor lockers, as the rode piles up on itself, not allowing the momentum it needs to continue to fall. PITA when you're solo and you have to keep going belowdecks to spread out the rode...
And remember, the windlass is not to be used to break the anchor free, one uses the motor(s) to accomplish that, the windlass is for retrieval. Therefore, the motors should always be running when weighing the anchor.
Obviously, there are two ways of wiring the windlass control, first, using a "contactor", which is basically a solenoid, allows you you use a regular (non-current carrying) switch like a Carling Contura.
The second way is to use a current carrying switch, which, while considerably more pricey than a non-, it saves the cost of the solenoid...
Another windlass that some might consider is a Quick windlass, made in Italy, absolutely gorgeous polished stainless finish, they work great, have more efficient motors (allow lighter gauge wiring), and the price is right.
Rick, I've run cables forward in the cabin 2 ways, basically. First way, providing there is access, is to go under the v-berth, poking small holes through any b/heads as needed, then coming up through the sub-floor of the anchor locker. The other way, on a lot of cabin boats, the hull-to-deck joint is hidden by little coaming strips, usually upholstered. You can pull these down and hide the cables behind them. If you have a cabin liner, there will probably be a gap between the liner and the hullside where the cabling can hide.
Good luck, I've done quite a few windlass installs, if you have any questions...
No Rick the rocker is not for outside in the elements yes mine is the toggle switch that Lewmar supplies. I think they also have the switches for the bow as an add on.
Now splicing 3 strand is not hard do it a couple of times and you will master it the 8 plait on the other hand is a challange but after awhile you will get it also. I am not so sure the splices on the site you have will work with a windlass. Try thishttp://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to ... splice.pdf