transom time

[68flatback]

I need to replace my transom on my 68 flatback 22.2.I want to close the transom off instead of the cut out transom on it now.The floors are going to be replaced and stringers checked at the same time.could anyone make suggestions on materials < plywood> or other material that i should use to form the new transom.and suggest a bracket to mount the motor on after.thanks

[scott_gunn]

I would go with a porta bracket if/when I close my transom off.  It gives you the benefit of a jackplate at the same time.

[DEFIANT]

I used AC Plywood and West System Epoxy to rebuild mine. Not as exotic as some of the composit materials, but cost effective, readily available and easy to work with.

I did not enclose my transom and install a bracket due to a lack of funds and time!

Good luck with your project and please keep us posted.

[JimCt]

I've been reading the various transom re-build posts over the past year and still don't have a clear idea as to the system for anchoring a new transom to the topsides & bottom.  Is it just glass or are hard fasteners used?  Seems to me that of all connection areas on the hull, the transom-to-hull is the most stressed & therefore has got to be done right.

[DEFIANT]

JimCt,

I left the outer fiberglass skin intact when I replaced the transom. The old transom was removed from the inside. All additional fastening was done with epoxy resin and a combination of different types of fiberglass cloth, mat and roving. Proper clamping insured a good bond. (I hope!!!)

[RickK]

JimCt,

I left the outer fiberglass skin intact when I replaced the transom. The old transom was removed from the inside. All additional fastening was done with epoxy resin and a combination of different types of fiberglass cloth, mat and roving. Proper clamping insured a good bond. (I hope!!!)

Not having done one myself, I guess it would be a scary experience the first time you take out the boat after the rebuild no matter how you do the transom replacement.

[Anonymous]

thanks for all the respnses.it is a very scary deal ,hoping that you do it right...(the first time)..i was wondering if any of you know how much set back i will need if i close the transom off.i have a 93 merc 150hp..and being a flat back what hight should i set the jake plate at..thanks chad

[68flatback]

thanks for all the respnses.it is a very scary deal ,hoping that you do it right...(the first time)..i was wondering if any of you know how much set back i will need if i close the transom off.i have a 93 merc 150hp..and being a flat back what hight should i set the jake plate at..thanks chad

.........Some reason i didnt auto log on..my online name is 68flatback..

[DEFIANT]

I was so happy to be on the water again fear didn't enter my mind! I cranked up all 225 horses and took a ride!  It was great!!

I feel the hardest part of the rebuild was making the first cuts into the transom to start the job!

Last weekend I was wreck fishing 14 miles off the Jersey coast in 90 feet of water and caught my limit of Tog. 8 fish 14" to 18". Before my rebuild I felt like I was fishing over a wreck, in a wreck! Now my boat no longer looks like a wreck!

[JimCt]

Thanks for the replies, though it's a tad unsettling to read the words "hope", "scary" & "fear" concerning emotions after the job.  Anyone have any autopsy info. learned from replacing a "factory" transom?  How'd the factory fasten the original?

[Mako254]

http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic. ... IC_ID=5657

Chad you might want to check out this link

I've about two hours of work to do on the barn then we can pop your boat in. more then enough room

[RickK]

I guess the trick is to not remove all the old transom so you don't have to worry about fastening it?  I thought you just cut it off completely and started from there.  I've seen some pics, I think in the gallery, where someone did just that.  Now if they can tell us how they attached/secured the transom back to whatever.

[DEFIANT]

RickK

After replacing my transom I would highly recommend keeping the outer skin of the transom in tact. Remove the rotted wood from the inside! I was hesitant about doing it this way at first, but after speaking to sone pros about it they convinced me to remove it from the inside. I am glad I did it that way!

[JimCt]

Mako254,  Unashamedly I expose my ignorance and total lack of comprehension...

I went over to the Mako link you posted and studied Fletch's carefully documented narrative of the transom replacement he did.  What I can't comprehend is what secures the transom to the topsides & bottom.  Is it solely the undisturbed outer hull skin?

Two big motors extending back from the transom on a bracket, I would guess, exert static force on the bracket mounting points which is considerable.  Under dynamic load, say bouncing off a wave top at speed and falling into the following trough, the shock forces must be more than considerable.  I don't see, nor have I ever seen, transom knees, either where the gunnel meets the transom or from the center keel area to the mid-point of the transom, on a glass boat.

The greatest forces by far, on account of so much weight being hung at the end of what amounts to a lever, are at the top of the transom where it meets the hull.  But somehow it all works.  No bracing knees or anything except  the "wrap-around" of the outer hull skin?

Again, I submit my wonder as an ignorant observer.

[Mako254]

Jimct,

As an engineer I must say I agree with everthing you said but the ignorance thing. I caught that too but this is what I think.
As far as I can see he rebuilt the whole back end just mounting the transom< either screwed, or stitched to either side. I guess moving the seam foward about three feet transfers some of the blunt force to rotaional force but I can't see how it reduces shear. but as you said it all seems to work.... maybe he's not telling all.... I think I'll drop him a note.

One thing I will say is he does some nice glass work.