My thoughts:
Transom: 1708 has CSM on one side and nothing on the other (besides weave). Epoxy doesn't melt the binders of the CSM, poly does. I would use 1 layer of 1.5oz CSM and poly on the inside of each layer of coosa and let it kick. To join the 2 pieces of Coosa together I would use thickened poly and a 1/4" notched trowel to spread the thickened poly between the coosa and then weight it down for a day or more. I notice you're planning poly on the exposed side of everything so use poly and 1.5oz CSM on both sides of transom coring. Use thickened poly to trowel on between the transom glass and the coring, it'll be plenty strong.
Deck: Poly doesn't bind with the weave as well as epoxy does but it will bind to the CSM on the one side of the 1708. If you start the 1708 csm down, then add a layer of CSM to the top as a finishing layer.

Pics cont …

5. With center console positioned as per original placement
6. Leaning post with 6” removed from center, tried to be clever with overthought join shapes
7. With leaning post positioned
8. Side view

It’s been a very productive last few weeks although I do not have much to show for it. One thing is clear is that I have grossly underestimated the amount of time this project is going to take but baby steps forward nonetheless.



Went and got 5 sheets of marine 1/2”plywood from Yukon Lumber out of Norfolk. Nice old school lumber yard. The ply is pretty nice. Not the highest grade I have seen but it will do.
On the same trip I headed over to Eastern Burlap in Norfolk for the sticky and itchy stuff. Great shop. I did a recon run a few weeks ago to scope the place out and get some information. Richard was very patient and knowledgeable. Joe helped me out the day of the big buy and he was great as well. They post their price list online and I found them to be very competitive with what I could find even against the big internet sites. I am very pleased with them.



I used plastic sheeting to create a template. On that template I made a few markings indicating where the outer most fiberglass will go, the shape of the plywood and the shape of the bottom skin of fiberglass that will go on the plywood. The plan is to prime the plywood with thinned vinylester resin, skin the bottom with 1708 and peanut butter it into the existing C channel with West Systems 404





I tapered the edges of the plywood as the Channel is really tight.



I cut the opening for the in floor hatch.





I set up a two router table to accommodate the perfect set ups for the V shaped tongue and groove I am using to lock the floor sheets together.





I then transferred the pattern onto 1708 and applied it to the plywood with vinylester resin. I am leaving a 1 inch ledge of glass along the mating edge of the plywood to better hold the peanut butter of the next piece of flooring.



Next was glassing mounting tabs onto the original in floor bow storage bin. I tabbed from the outside then turned it over and tabbed from the inner edge for really good strength




I then installed the tub using 404 peanut butter. Once set up I filled the gaps with PL construction adhesive for water proofing and extra strength.



I installed the first floor section in a bed of 404 peanut butter and sealed any gaps with PL construction adhesive for added strength.  Once all the section are in I will coat with 3 layers of 1708 and gelcoat



Grinding grinding grinding…. As close to hell without the heat. Just misery. I ground the gas tank tub and the existing live well tub to repair, patch and modify for install. I took 16 inches of length off the tub as I plan on shortening the new tank by 17 inches to
reduce fuel capacity to 100 gallons and move weight forward. The combination of the added weight on the transom of the bracket and bait station has me conscious of weight distribution. The original setup had the center console over the tank cover. I have moved the center console forward about 30 inches which will leave the tank tub just about where it originally was without being covered by the center console.









The gas tank tub is coming along nicely. I added the original piece back in to save time. I’m not so concerned about the look of the repair as it just has to be strong and not pretty.

Thanks for sharing your pictures. Those are extremely helpful. This is probably the direction I’m going to go. The honeycomb seems to be a light and strong coring once you laminated it on both sides. The last thing I want to do is put a whole bunch of weight high and on both sides of the boat. Not to mention pretty affordable these days. Resin and biaxle is not hard for me to get through work but coring Material I have to outsource.

Sending unit is out of picture at stern of tank. Adding some storage under the leaning post seat. Used the corner of the old fuel tank. Will need to make a side but will do that this w÷kend. Laminated some more of Port stringer