1977 22-2 FF O/B

[seabob4]

Bill,
Now, going back to '75, well, I was a sophmore in HS, so I can't REALLY say how your AS was built!  But, knowing what I know now, I would guess that some sort of "board" was glassed in between the stringers that covers you tank.  Should be just a matter of cutting out that board flush with the stringers (and maybe the fore and aft bulkheads) and your tank will be exposed and ready to yank out.  If by chance it is foamed in place, use a good solvent poured onto the foam to sort of dissolve it and loosen its grip.

And, yes, if the bilge pump is as old as the boat...I like Rule.  Go with a 1500GPH.  Stay away from the Rule-Mates, they tend to drain batteries.  Go with a conventional Rule or other model (Attwood, etc.) float switch.

Bob

[billfish33]

Bob:

 I was looking at the Rule Bilge pumps, but 1 of my partners wants an Auto Bilge,the Mate series is an automated line that uses a float, then theres a fully auto line that can come on every few minutes to check,and pump only if needed.

what pump would you suggest !

I also found a gas tank that I hope will fit !

Moeller 58 Gal below-Deck {MOE032558}

anything needed doing {besides cleaning} when inside the hull ?

Thanks again !!
Bill

[seabob4]

Bill,
I would use a Rule 1500 with this float from Water Witch.  The CG uses them.

Once you get the tank out, clean up real good, use tank rubber on the new tank, secure it down, and put that hatch back on.  If you feel the deck flexes too much in the tank hatch area, pull the hatch back off and class some athwartships supports on top of the stringer to bring them up to deck level.

[billfish33]

Tank Rubber ? I couldn't seem to find what that was ?

We are pulling out the old tank in the morning.

thanks,
Bill

[seabob4]

Bill,
1/4" Neoprene, 2" wide.  It's how I've installed tanks, both aluminum an plastic since '94, even if they got foamed in.  NMMA, ABYC requirements, but don't worry about that.

The Neoprene obviously provides a "cushion" for your tank (even went secured "tight"), but also provides an area where water that enters your tank cavity can evacuate in a timely manner without "puddling" and being in constant contact with your tank.  Not good, you know.

So you've got a Moeller.  It should have some indentations along each side where L-brackets could be located to secure the tank to the stringers.

Shoot a couple of pics, and I'll give you some guidance, if you want.  I'll be home tomorrow (boat building sucks right now!). :(

[billfish33]

Bob:

I don't have the new tank yet!, I did a search and Moeller came up. I want to ta measure the old one and see what fits before getting a new one, may take a few days to get the new one as well !

I was looking at a 58 Gal moeller,it was 44" L,261/2 W,15 3/4 H.

I'm gueesing woever sells that tabk willhave tank neo rubber ?

[seabob4]

Bill,
We get ours from CGR Industries.  The pic on the web page shows what it looks like.  It's possible the tank vendor may also carry it.

[billfish33]

Bob:
Taking out that Tank was horrible...
We took off the hatch,and that thing was completly foamed in place {bottom,sides,and top} as well as having fiberglass reinforcement at the bottom of the 2 support brackets.
The problem was there wasn't much room between the tank and the side of the well that the tank was in.
We used a sawzall down the sides,cleaned as much as we could,then rented a power washer {3000 psi} and that did the trick !

the tank measure 8" deep,22 1/4" wide,and 72" long, I thought I found that the boat had a biult-in 60 gal tank, but this looks smaller than that ?

also,I thought we had a 1975,it turns out,it's a 1977.

I'd like to get the same size tank again to make it easy and as big as possible,but don't know where to go for a custom tank ?

Thanks,
Bill

[seabob4]

Bill,
Measure the tank height at the center, and the tank height at one side.  It will have to be divided, volume-wise, into a triangular volume and a rectangular volume.

Florida Marine Tanks and RDS are probably your best bet as far as a replacement tank.  I'm betting Florida Marine Tanks.  Get me those dimensions, and I'll give you your volume.

[billfish33]

it's 8" center as well as both ends.

only other slight problem is how to add or swap the bilge {if it even has one now ?}
when we pulled out the tank,I expected tp see the inside of the hull,but instead,there was a fiberglass compartment a little larger than the tank.

thanks for all your help and suggestions !
BIll

[seabob4]

Bill,
Thanks for the dimensions.  55.48 gallons is what you have.  Now, if you can get me some pics of the bilge and your wiring, I can help you with the bilge pump.

Sometimes builders "fudged" on their actual tank size.  Don't worry about it.  But if you contact Ray Veal at RDS Aluminum with your tank dimensions, I'm sure they will gladly fab a tank for you.  Just need to get the fill, vent, and pickup locations also.  He's a good guy.  Might want to look in your neck of the woods also.

[billfish33]

Bob :

I'll try around my area {NY} to see if I can find a tank fab guy.

We can't figure out how to get to the bilge,I'm guessing the boat needs a bilge {but I'm not certain ?}
After we get done cleaning out where the tank was we'll be able to get a closer look to see if theres a way to get completely below the deck where the bilge would be ?
It will be a few days before we can clean it up though.


Thanks again !
Bill

[seabob4]

Theoretically, one would think a boat needs a bilge area below decks.  This is not always the case, as several Boston Whaler models don't have bilges, just a simple sump area where the pump is located.  If you have a splashwell, are  there any inspection plates (pies) in that area?

[RickK]

Bob :
I'll try around my area {NY} to see if I can find a tank fab guy.

http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3086
A few members have used this company with good results.

[seabob4]

Rick,
It's about time!