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Author Topic: 170 Rub rail  (Read 1162 times)

June 30, 2011, 10:52:44 AM
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c master

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170 Rub rail
« on: June 30, 2011, 10:52:44 AM »
I'm new to this site, so I'm sure this subject has been completely discussed in the past, but:

My green rub rail is in decent condition but has a lot of black marks.  Will anything clean it up?  Can it be 'shined' up after?  The white insert isn't terrible but could look better.

I noticed that someone was once looking for "takers" to share in 500' of Aquasport emerald green rub rail (500' was the minimum purchase amount).  Is any of that rubrail still sitting around in a garage someplace?   I'm guessing I need 40' or so...
C Master
1975 Aquasport 170
file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg


file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg

June 30, 2011, 11:06:19 AM
Reply #1

gran398

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2011, 11:06:19 AM »
That was me...we exhausted every avenue...the green rubrail is unfortunately history.

However, our friend and CA member Slvring has devised a good method of restoration. Just use the search function and check his posts. Will be this year.

Captain Bob may be able to offer furthur guidance. Thanks....and welcome!

June 30, 2011, 12:01:27 PM
Reply #2

Capt. Bob

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2011, 12:01:27 PM »
This rub rail thing is kinda like an STD.

Just when you think it's cleared up, you start ichin' again. :pale:

Many methods have been tried. This has been the best to date.
viewtopic.php?p=48654#p48654

As far as a "group/forum buy"......... think 64 Crayola Crayon box (with sharpener) and that's about how many shades of green rail out there and getting everyone to agree on one (and forking out the coin) ain't happening but then the green rail guru himself already said that.

Now where did I put that ointment :scratch:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

June 30, 2011, 12:36:48 PM
Reply #3

gran398

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2011, 12:36:48 PM »
:lol:  :lol:

June 30, 2011, 04:13:59 PM
Reply #4

c master

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Re: 170 Rub rail / engine washout
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2011, 04:13:59 PM »
Re: Rubrail.  Thanks for the photos.  If nothing else, seeing the blue version makes me feel a lot better...in comparison my 1975 rail looks pretty clean (still actually green and mostly shiny...just has black places...I assume from rubbing on an occasional creosoted dock post over the last 36 years.)   So if I sand at all, it will be with something like 1000, then buff.   And - this idea is 'stupid simple' so it probably won't work - but I'm thinking about pulling the white insert out of the channel a little ways, and looking at the other side of it.  Maybe it's nice and white back there!   And maybe the moon will fall out of the sky.  

Re: Lesson about salt/washout:   I have a '96 88 spl.  It MIGHT have 300 hours on it...the boat came out of probate but the motor was off of a bass boat (freshwater).  I replaced the tach/hr meter and I've only put about 100 on it myself.  Boat's been in storage for a year. Anyway, I always...ALWAYS...put the muffs on it when I wash the boat down after a saltwater trip, let it warm up, feel the exhaust water to make sure.  This week, in preparation for Independence Day weekend, I took it to a very reputable dealer for a water-pump change (5 years on the current pump and I had gotten a brief hi-temp alarm last time out).  Afterwards, the laser still showed the starboard side going immediately to 200 degrees, port side was at about 180 when we shut it off.  Uh oh.  Replace the t-stats.  Both corroded/frozen mostly shut.  Fine.  Start up...no change in temps.  Hmmm.  

Finally said, "Pull the heads and look at the diverters and the gaskets and see what's going on in there.  Well, you can not imagine a bigger mess of what I can only describe as a salt/shell/sand/??? mixture, plus the 'relocated' diverters looked like John Candy's arteries. Now, before starting it back up we're going to drop the lower unit again and re-check the tubing below the powerhead.  I don't think ANY water was getting to the stbd power head, and precious little on the port side.  The pee-hole never missed a beat.  Very lucky it didn't seize up.

I do wade-fish, and I run shallow in these Texas bays, so I can only assume that I picked up some super-sticky mud/shell/sand/baby cabbage heads last time out, the combo of which was just too thick to get washed out by the hose.

Lesson:  Use Salt-Away liberally.  (Not an endorsement...just one man's opinion.)
C Master
1975 Aquasport 170
file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg


file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg

June 30, 2011, 11:38:33 PM
Reply #5

gran398

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2011, 11:38:33 PM »
Good post. Sorry for the engine diagnosis. But double check, get a second opinion. My thinking is, they all blow up eventually...do your best to freshwater flush etc. But once they give it up, forget a rebuild...find a younger model. Better hole shot, quicker RPM's...Seems to work for Heff... :wink:

The 70's green rubrail...we killed ourselves to find an accurate representation. Exhausted all venues...the thread, all six months worth, is here on the board. Ended up that it could be accomplished...but all interested parties would have needed to contribute 2k plus to speak for the minimum production run.

Needless to say, it was a sad ending.

But we tried. And had a great time trying. So polish up the rubrail...bleach the white insert...and keep us posted.

July 06, 2011, 12:18:57 PM
Reply #6

c master

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Re: 170 Rub rail cleaning - the sequel
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2011, 12:18:57 PM »
Well, we spent Saturday afternoon in the shade, compounding and waxing the entire boat.  I was lamenting the rub rail being dirty, and Peggy Jo apparently got tired of hearing it and said, "You know, honey, I think all you need is an SOS pad."  
I said, "Nah...that's not going to do it."  
She said, "Ok, well, do you have one?"  
"No."  
"Ok, I'll be right back."

She zooms off on the bike, and returns from Walgreen's 10 minutes later, makes me a gin and tonic and commences scrubbing the rub rail with an SOS pad.  Actually several SOS pads.  

I'll send a picture.  It looks great.  As does she.  

Also, for whomever suggested it, the Marine Penetrol on the floor was a big success....just scrubbed the floor with boat soap, then wiped Penetrol on with a rag and allowed to dry.  I was worried it would be slippery but it's not...it beads water and it's sort of 'squeaky/grippy' - and the fiberglas looks alive again.   Came home Monday evening from fishing and hosed it down...any dirt came right off.


Cliff
C Master
1975 Aquasport 170
file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg


file:///C:/Users/cliff.haehl/AppData/Local/Temp/IMG_0135.jpg

July 06, 2011, 12:29:38 PM
Reply #7

flounderpounder225

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #7 on: July 06, 2011, 12:29:38 PM »
My thinking is, they all blow up eventually...

Gee where have I heard that before  :scratch: Oh, yeah, that was you also Scott.... Run em' like a stolen cadillac right??  :lol:
Marc
1997 245 Osprey, 250 HPDI.  SOLD

July 06, 2011, 01:52:12 PM
Reply #8

gran398

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Re: 170 Rub rail
« Reply #8 on: July 06, 2011, 01:52:12 PM »
You got it bro...pedal to the metal, Big Lots lube :lol:

 

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