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Author Topic: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started  (Read 2140 times)

July 11, 2021, 12:02:15 AM
Reply #15

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #15 on: July 11, 2021, 12:02:15 AM »

Inside of stringer - ply, filet, glass


Stringer


Frame cut away - Maybe should have left it on but a lot easier to move around inside.



Plywood added to stringer to catch floor fasteners. I drilled holes to pour foam and relieve foam pressure. Poured 8 lb foam. Two, 2 gallon kits was not enough so I will fill rest with 4 lb.



Was only around 60 degrees when I was going to pour foam so I put plastic over top for an hour and got temp up inside to 80-90 as per recommendations for good foam expansion. Left it on while my buddy mixed and I poured. I was sweatin buckets.



July 20, 2021, 06:09:43 PM
Reply #16

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #16 on: July 20, 2021, 06:09:43 PM »
I want to glass the floor to the sides of the boat. How is this usually done? Do you install cleats or just tab it in after the floor is set on stringers? I looked around but didn't find any examples where I could really tell what was done. Appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
NK

July 20, 2021, 06:40:53 PM
Reply #17

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #17 on: July 20, 2021, 06:40:53 PM »
You can tie right into the sides of the hull and the transom. I used thickened epoxy to glue the floor down to the stringers and then placed about 10 cinder blocks to weigh it down while it kicked. Then I scruffed up the floor and hull sides where the joint would be, laid in a fillet and then used 1708 tape to tie it in.


I'm hoping you asked yourself this question as you were pulling the liner out - what am I going to do with this thing? Are you going to raise the stringer height to help the boat self bail or just drop it back in where it was? I raised the stringer height, glued the floor to the hull side/transom and then trimmed the bottom of the liner about 3", cut out the casting deck.


The casting deck had to be "grown" to fit back into the new hull sides. The anchor locker access had to modified since the casting deck now was at the bottom edge of opening. Lots to think about if you change the height of the stringers.




Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 20, 2021, 07:07:34 PM
Reply #18

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #18 on: July 20, 2021, 07:07:34 PM »
Here is a pic after growing the size of the casting deck plus I decided to cut in another access hatch in the front of the deck. Doesn't show the mods to the anchor locker opening.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 26, 2021, 11:52:47 AM
Reply #19

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2021, 11:52:47 AM »
Rainboat - hope we didn't scare you off.  Did you decide what you're going to do with the floor and liner?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 27, 2021, 01:18:50 PM
Reply #20

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2021, 01:18:50 PM »

It'll take more than well intentioned help to scare me off. Thanks for the feedback RickK.

I am thinking of raising the floor above stringer height by 1.5 inches. I think that will be about 1" above (maybe a little more) where it was before. I want it to drain but I want a little height between me and the very cold Pacific.

I'm going to cut the liner up like you did and attach to the floor. I think I can see what you mean about having to grow the casting deck but I'm not totally clear on this part. I was thinking of cutting the front of the casting deck up just like the liner. I want to support the casting deck. Can I get around growing the deck by not shimming the floor under the casting deck and just keep it "stock" height? It wasn't supported before.

I'm also not clear on what you mean by changes brought on by "new hull sides"'.

Thanks for the feedback and sorry for the delayed response.


July 27, 2021, 01:43:16 PM
Reply #21

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2021, 01:43:16 PM »
Here are some pics from the last few days of work:



I went with the bolt through method. Work ok. Middle of transom remains about an 1/8" in from flat.





I decided to do this bulkhead/knee combo so that I can see into the bilge through a hatch. Also so I can easily mount and access a bilge pump.

Couple other perspectives of same below:





Maybe a good idea? Maybe not? Thanks for checking it out.

July 27, 2021, 01:52:21 PM
Reply #22

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2021, 01:52:21 PM »
I know...I don't have a drain plumbed. I'll have to figure out down the road. Oops.
nk

July 27, 2021, 02:40:14 PM
Reply #23

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #23 on: July 27, 2021, 02:40:14 PM »
Plumbing. To see what the problem is now, take a small bucket of water and pour it into the center of the hull. Make sure the hull is like it would be sitting in the water. Since you've added the layers of glass and the core you'll get to see the same problem I see in my boat and why I came up with the pipe approach. Bummer.

Back to your questions: First of all, your craftsmanship looks great. You want to raise the floor an inch or 2. Are you going to attach the floor to the hullsides? If you look at my liner you'll see that I have a removeable rod holder insert, you don't. I had about 5 inches below the bottom opening so I could trim off 3 inches, yours is different - you need to analyze that and see how to deal with that. My casting deck "front" is removable (I use a slab of Brazilian Mahogany) and the bottom of that storage needed to sit above the floor so I could have a place to glass it in. I ran the floor up into the front enough to set the casting deck on top of it and I glued it there. To grow the size of the casting deck I laid it face down on a flat surface and laminated pieces of 1708 onto the edges until I got it where I needed it to reach the "new sides" - where the new edges met the liner.

Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 27, 2021, 04:27:04 PM
Reply #24

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #24 on: July 27, 2021, 04:27:04 PM »
BTW, I used epoxy below the floor and polyester above the floor. What you see in the above pic is poly.
I tabbed in the floor to the hullsides with epoxy because I could hide it behind the liner. I used poly up top because I was going to gelcoat the inside.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 02, 2021, 01:17:26 PM
Reply #25

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #25 on: August 02, 2021, 01:17:26 PM »
Members have probably posted this before but I couldn't find on this site.

Beyond the magnificent beard on Bertie Higgins this video has some great footage of what looks like an Aquasport 170 throughout (Starts min-1:15).

Yacht Rock...so smooth.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru2tsT32pHA


For fans of Yacht Rock history and hilarious comedy check out this series:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMTI8vg7A5U



August 04, 2021, 12:00:42 AM
Reply #26

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2021, 12:00:42 AM »





Got a layer of 1708 on stringers. How many layers to folks usually lay down on stringers?
NK

August 04, 2021, 06:51:16 AM
Reply #27

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #27 on: August 04, 2021, 06:51:16 AM »
Looks good - a couple layers is all you need. I don't see mention of what you are going to use for power on the boat but I do see a pretty high notch on the transom. Care to share?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 04, 2021, 11:59:59 AM
Reply #28

RickK

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2021, 11:59:59 AM »
Members have probably posted this before but I couldn't find on this site.

Beyond the magnificent beard on Bertie Higgins this video has some great footage of what looks like an Aquasport 170 throughout (Starts min-1:15).

Yacht Rock...so smooth.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru2tsT32pHA

For fans of Yacht Rock history and hilarious comedy check out this series:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMTI8vg7A5U

I'm going to take a swag and say I don't think the boat is an Aquasport - first off, the little bit of the badging I can see at the rear of the hull doesn't look like an Aquasport badge. Also the lifting strakes on a 170 hull started approx 1 foot from the prow of the hull. The strakes on that hull seem to start almost at the prow.
Aquasport 170 -
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 04, 2021, 12:00:31 PM
Reply #29

Rainboat

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Re: Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started
« Reply #29 on: August 04, 2021, 12:00:31 PM »
That's a good question. I raised the transom 5" to 25". Ideally I would put on an outboard that will work with this height but I'm not sure what will end up on there. I would like to keep it high but if I have to I will cut it lower. I was reading that some folks have also raised to 25. I like the extra height.
Thanks,
NK

 

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