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Author Topic: Brad's '84 175 redeck  (Read 3285 times)

January 14, 2020, 08:02:08 AM
Reply #15

CTsalt12

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #15 on: January 14, 2020, 08:02:08 AM »
I Don't know if the boat is stored in  Norwalk or jersey, if the former-that's where I'm based.  Happy to lend a hand.
Jimbo
1989 175 Osprey

January 14, 2020, 06:52:20 PM
Reply #16

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #16 on: January 14, 2020, 06:52:20 PM »
I Don't know if the boat is stored in  Norwalk or jersey, if the former-that's where I'm based.  Happy to lend a hand.

Cheers CT, NJ unfortunately, will be back in Norwalk after the refit though. Got the CT reference now  :13: We should meet up for a beer and a lie swopping session sometime  :singing:

January 19, 2020, 01:16:56 PM
Reply #17

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2020, 01:16:56 PM »
Update after yesterday’s snow ... managed to get the wheel off, was actually easy after initial learning curve ... a tip, keep the steering wheel’s nut on a few turns, but leaving enough proud of the end of the steering wheel shaft to create a lip that the clamp’s bolt won’t slip out of. It did take a little gentle persuasion to get the clamp’s jaws under the wheel’s base ... 2 firm bangs on the clamp’s bolt, retighten clamp’s bolt, 2 firm bangs on the clamp’s bolt, retighten ... repeat 3-4 times. The “firm bangs” are just that ... firm, not Thor-like.

Now for some input please ... what is the best way to remove cables from housing? Tx all.



Notice the ridge on the shaft



Matched slot on wheel’s base



Base of steering housing ... where to start



Thanks guys




January 19, 2020, 03:07:00 PM
Reply #18

RickK

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2020, 03:07:00 PM »
Pull the cotter pin and then work it out.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 26, 2020, 11:39:43 AM
Reply #19

Bat21

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #19 on: January 26, 2020, 11:39:43 AM »
Sorry I know I'm late to the show. To remove the steering cable you have to remove the cotter pin and stick the end in the small hole and it releases the cable. It releases like an air hose fitting. Then push the new cable in until u hear a click and reinstall the cotter pin. You probably figured it out already but I posted in case u didn't. Good luck

January 26, 2020, 04:31:49 PM
Reply #20

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #20 on: January 26, 2020, 04:31:49 PM »
Thanks Bat, managed to work through it this morning ... found out what a Woodruff Key is and how stubborn and clever it is.



Got the steering mechanism off in the way Bat described ... lesson learnt - remove cable before disconnecting entire housing from the console (actually, probably be best to do this step before even removing the wheel, IMHO).

Got the console completely disconnected and off the hull and then the soft old fuel tank access panel ... time now for reflection and visualization...









Plan is still to replace the deck at the moment ... thanks guys for the guidance so far







January 26, 2020, 07:44:20 PM
Reply #21

RickK

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #21 on: January 26, 2020, 07:44:20 PM »
I see the delam on the tank cover.
The best way to repair this is to do it from the bottom side and use a cutoff wheel to cut around the perimeter of the backing/core (just through the fiberglass laminations to cover the core), peel the backing/core off, grind the leftovers off and recore it. Then glass it back in.
Make sure you clamp the cover down on a flat surface non-skid down and figure how to get the core out (like I mentioned above) and then repair any damage to the lid from the inside with more glass and then recore. Try to do all the repair work so you minimize what is needed to repair the top side.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 09, 2020, 04:08:39 PM
Reply #22

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2020, 04:08:39 PM »
Taking advantage of the weather and did the Angels and Fools thing:



No going back now ... (Note to self, even 4 short cuts creates an irritating array of fiberglass itches ... wear gloves and other protective gear )

Question ... there is a small "bulge" on the Port Stern quarter which the opposite side doesn't have ... any reason why it's there?















February 09, 2020, 05:52:04 PM
Reply #23

RickK

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2020, 05:52:04 PM »
Oh boy, taking the plunge huh?  :dancing:
The bulge looks to be in the liner mold. On the Starboard side the trough is in the way I think?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 09, 2020, 08:10:03 PM
Reply #24

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2020, 08:10:03 PM »

The bulge looks to be in the liner mold. On the Starboard side the trough is in the way I think?

Definately done on purpose (yip, starboard side is the trough), but to what purpose?

Did some heavy thinking over the last little while before making that exploratory cut .... been watching the bigger boat rebuilds and really liking the various mods, so much so that the itch to go bigger was starting to get some traction ... but then thought back to the rationale of getting the smaller one in the first place (was actually looking for a 15' Hobie before coming across this Osprey) ... easy single-handed launching. I generally fish solo and the kids'll be gone over the next 4 years or so, wife has no interest in boating, into the 50s, so smaller is actually better. This boat will be my last one, so I'm going to make the changes I want based on personal preference and solo handling ... no consideration will be given to resale or aesthetics ... she's going to be fugly but functional.

One of the first major functional changes will be to revamp the console, essentially going to cut out a 8-10" strip down the middle and join it back together again ... this'll necessitate tossing the "new" 26G cube-shaped fuel tank and replacing it with a 35G poly below deck version.
Going to keep the casting deck as it is apart from refurbishing the hatch covers ... but build a long narrowish bench seat/hatch that'll run from the console to the casting deck ... so a passenger would either sit astride leaning back against the console or 2 people could sit side-by-side facing outwards (in opposite directions if fishing)
Considering a Dolphin T-Top Original Leaning Post ... will also cut out a 8-10" section and rejoin ...

Never been short of ideas, now just to get the hands to make what the inner eye can see  :alcool:

Thoughts ... Opinions ... Things to consider? Thanks all

February 10, 2020, 12:46:03 AM
Reply #25

Fish Head

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2020, 12:46:03 AM »
On my 19’6 there is a bulge in the liner in the same area that leads to a vent on the outside of the hull. I always assumed that was there if you had the I/O version and needed an exhaust fan for fuel fumes?

February 15, 2020, 05:06:18 PM
Reply #26

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #26 on: February 15, 2020, 05:06:18 PM »
Thanks for that Fish , maybe more will be revealed when the foam is removed.

Carried on cutting and removing today, based on the holes in the top of the stringer and sopping wet foam on the outside of the stringers, this is definately the right decision.

Some pics for posterity sake:

This is intended to be the lip that the new deck will rest on ... but the plywood is damp ... cause for concern? What are the next steps?



Yellow shows wet ply, orange dampish:



Sopping wet foam on outside of starboard stringer, almost no pressure on hammer



Open holes on top of stringers, must have been from when they sprayed in the foam, wonder why they didn't seal them?



Great big empty cavities in the stringers ...



Got the coffin/bathtub out in one piece ... reuse for new below deck tank?



WiP





Time to order the glass and stuff ... no going back now.

Will redo entire wiring ... what gauge is best for the following:
1. Battery to panel to motor (90hp 2 stroke)
2. Fish finders
3. Nav lights
4. Bilge pumps
5. Cockpit lights
6. Rev counter
7. Battery indicators

Thanks guys ... all inputs gratefully accepted - even the hard cold truth ones

February 17, 2020, 07:39:38 AM
Reply #27

Tampa Bay Mike

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2020, 07:39:38 AM »
Look up New Wire Marine. They have a bunch of diagrams on their site that were very helpful for me. Fair prices too. I used 14ga for all my lights, pumps, switches, etc. 10ga for the supply to the switch panel, 8ga back to the porta bracket pump, and 2ga on the batteries and from the switch back to the motor. I could have gone with 16 or 18 for a lot of it but for the small price difference I figured bigger wouldn't hurt.

February 17, 2020, 09:31:20 AM
Reply #28

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2020, 09:31:20 AM »
Look up New Wire Marine. They have a bunch of diagrams on their site that were very helpful for me. Fair prices too. I used 14ga for all my lights, pumps, switches, etc. 10ga for the supply to the switch panel, 8ga back to the porta bracket pump, and 2ga on the batteries and from the switch back to the motor. I could have gone with 16 or 18 for a lot of it but for the small price difference I figured bigger wouldn't hurt.

Thanks Mike, that’s exactly what I needed, very helpful ... appreciated.

February 17, 2020, 01:25:59 PM
Reply #29

BradC

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Re: Brad's '84 175 redeck
« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2020, 01:25:59 PM »
He calls it slave labour ... I call it indentured


 

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