Brendan's 170 project

[Brendanpd28]

I must apologize for having 20 different posts for my project so far. So I am going to post updates here for now on. I'm starting to understand the layout of this site a bit better now. (Amazing site by the way). Here's a few pics of where I am at.
 
- Cooler seat is painted and has a new cushion.
- floor has been injected with epoxy and milled fibers
- in the process of fairing the gunnel caps
 - all the wood has been stripped and refinished with 4 coats of spar varnish
 - console has been faired, sanded and primed
- bow hatches have been recored

[Brendanpd28]

[Brendanpd28]

At least something is done on the project lol. Anybody have advice on a good vinyl cleaner to whiten up the back rest portion of the seat?

[Brendanpd28]

Got the rest of the re-cores done today, sanded all the faired holes from the deck injection, finished all the remaining filling and fairing, primed the transom, and started milling up the new mahogany faceplate / laying out switches etc.... A good 10 hr. Day with lots of progress!! All I can say is what the hell have I been doing with cabosil this whole time?? Microballoons have saved me hours of time and loads of frustration: thank you for the advice on that one guys!!!

[RickK]

Cabosil is more structural than micro balloons. As it sounds, micro balloons are full of air.  Good for sanding but not for thickening up a structural component like fillets, etc.

[Brendanpd28]

Cabosil is more structural than micro balloons. As it sounds, micro balloons are full of air.  Good for sanding but not for thickening up a structural component like fillets, etc.

Ya I've only been using them for filling...nothing structural. But I was using cabosil for everything before and it's the worst to sand. Glad I used micros for the rest!

[Brendanpd28]

Got some primer sprayed on yesterday. Overall it went pretty well. I hope the gloss coats go on the same!!! As I've been working I have noticed there are still a couple soft spots in the floor that are bothering me a little. The injection went pretty well but it obviously didn't take everywhere. Now I know that replacing the entire deck is the right way to do it but that is not an option this year. Does anyone think wetting out a layer or 2 of 1808/1708 over the deck before doing the kiwi grip could help sure up the last couple soft spots?? Just an idea. If not I will probably just replace the deck next year.

Thanks!!!

[love2fish]

looks sharp! word of advice. on your console, I have a similar setup- using a solid piece of teak over top my whole dash. If I had mine to do over- I would move all my switches/gauges as far "up" as possible. I find my fiancé and I are constantly putting our feet on the lower edge of the dash while we are sitting at the lower console and from time to time, I have pulled the kill switch by accident or switches have big flipped and unless I am paying attention- something like a bilge pump or livewell pump will run until I notice and turn it off.

[Brendanpd28]

looks sharp! word of advice. on your console, I have a similar setup- using a solid piece of teak over top my whole dash. If I had mine to do over- I would move all my switches/gauges as far "up" as possible. I find my fiancé and I are constantly putting our feet on the lower edge of the dash while we are sitting at the lower console and from time to time, I have pulled the kill switch by accident or switches have big flipped and unless I am paying attention- something like a bilge pump or livewell pump will run until I notice and turn it off.

Good call man. I have already cut and laid out the dash and the switches are all
Up high. Just by chance....didn't plan that out lol. The only thing I'm thinking of now is that I also plan to put another piece of mahogany recessed into that oval hole that's a little below knee height on the console and that's where the stereo, bilge switch and usb was going. I've attached a schematic of the layout. This could present a problem. Hmmm

[love2fish]

you could always use some of your scrap and add a 3/4" or more of a "lip" to the board you are using so it's recessed back in the console a bit- so your buttons and whatever are not "raised" from the front edge of the console wall.
I did something similar with my fuel gauge. you could set yours back a little further for clearance also. I can swing the top door up and its all closed and flush.

[larsli68]

Looking good!

//Lars

[Brendanpd28]

 Got two of the pieces of mahogany for the console covered with five coats of spar varnish.   The console has primer on it right now so I still need to spray a couple coats of gloss.  Another piece of mahogany will be going in the oval opening below the face plate to hold a few more electronics.  At least it's progress!!

[RickK]

Any progress is good progress.

[Brendanpd28]

Hey guys,

   After much deliberation I think my only option for a bilge pump is to run the hose like in the picture below. It should work fine as long as I seal exceptionally well where it comes through the side wall of the trough. My only problem is I'm having trouble finding a thru-hull fitting long enough to go through the transom. Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks!

[Brendanpd28]

So I got my hatches all kiwigripped and threw them in for a test fit. Unfortunately the first gloss coat on the gunnels, liners, etc. did not go very well. I have no experience spraying and I think I bit off a little more than I can chew. But hey.....you live and you learn. A few spots have some pretty bad sags. Any advice on removing the sags before the next coat?? I assume just let it dry and sand them down but that could take some serious time before they completely harden. I think I'm going to roll and tip the next coat since I have a lot of experience with that.

Thanks in advance!